Did this procedure on the 300C SRT and Charger R/T and it really makes a big difference in braking. No more squealing brakes and better performance. This should be done on all your new Challey's and can be done on any car. Just follow exactly the steps listed here by Dave Zeckhausen of (Zeckhausen Racing) Remember one thing, you do not come to a complete stop.:4-wavey:
Follow this:
Since we have gained quite a few new members with Challengers I want you to see this excellent way to break in your brakes to the rotors and keep them from squealing.
That is a fantastic piece of information, it is probably too late for mine, but I have always done a "mini" version of that anyway. But not near as extensive and complete as this.
When I picked mine up, I worked the brakes lightly, then more agressively the first 20 miles.
Be sure and follow the instructions specifically about not coming to a full stop. You may be sorry if you do ! You should be able to smell the brakes heating up and thats fine just keep moving and give them time to cool a bit in between sets. You should have a nice blue patina on the rotors when you finish.
I've been happy as Brittany Spears psychologist with mine since bedding them.
We have several members who just got their Challengers. Bed those brakes, you will be very happy with them afterwards. Follow the instructions to the letter for best results.:smileup:
Did the brake bedding on the Challenger SRT this morning and got a nice light blue patina on the rotors. Brutus is good to go for stopping!
A good thing to do on any Challenger ! Read the first thread above from Zeckhausen racing.
Note that, if the brakes of a vehicle with high-performance or racing pads are not used continuously in an aggressive manner, the transfer layer on the rotors can be abraded (literally worn off). However, the transfer layer can be re-established, if needed, by repeating one series of stops in the bed-in procedure. This process may be repeated as often as necessary during the life of the pad.
"If you have just installed rotors with zinc or cadmium plating, or if the rotors have an anti-corrosion phosphate coating, you should postpone the bedding process until normal driving has allowed your brake pads to polish the rotors clean and removed all traces of the plating or coating."
Does this apply to the Brembo's?
"If you have just installed rotors with zinc or cadmium plating, or if the rotors have an anti-corrosion phosphate coating, you should postpone the bedding process until normal driving has allowed your brake pads to polish the rotors clean and removed all traces of the plating or coating."
Does this apply to the Brembo's?
Just to be clear, we are nearly using 100% braking force 8 times in a row getting the rotors very very very hot, pretty much baking them like mad, so hammer them like mad, but dont come to a complete stop, I get that, but really get on the brakes like you are burning them out. Right?
Just to be clear, we are nearly using 100% braking force 8 times in a row getting the rotors very very very hot, pretty much baking them like mad, so hammer them like mad, but dont come to a complete stop, I get that, but really get on the brakes like you are burning them out. Right?
Get on them until just before the ABS takes over which is a pretty firm pressure until you hit 10 mph, let off, get up to speed(60) again and do it again until you have done it 8 times, then drive around until the brakes cool (about 10 minutes) without using the brakes. When you stop after that you should see a grey/blue patina on the rotors.
Thers a good chance you will smell the brakes but don't worry about that, it's normal.
Once you do this, is it advisable not to spray any rim cleaner on them or does that not cause any issues? I have noticed some wheel cleaner's react with the lining when cleaning them, but it goes away later once the breaks are applied even lightly.
Be sure and read "taking the mystery out of brake pad-break in" in the first paragraph of the link in the first post.
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