My amazing wife bought me the Hurst pistol grip shifter for my birthday yesterday. It's a relatively straight forward install. But the directions are a bit lacking in some areas- some of which is because they are using a Charger for the install pictures, some of which is because there are things they don't point out. Figured I could save someone time and effort by giving you all some pointers. Not showing a full install, just pointing out things from their instructions that can guide you a bit better
here's the link to their instructions: http://files.dpbrands.com/hurst/instructions/5380437.pdf
OK first step:
The above does not work for 2015+ Challenger. Our bezel is not the same shape as that one, we have a more rounded shape, plus we have a shiny black outer band around it. It is virtually impossible to get any tool into the upper portion (as pictured). I do have a set of plastic trim tools (thank you Harbor Freight). After much fighting with trying to get the bezel up (being super cautious not to break or scratch anything) I finally found that the only way (at least for me) was to lift in the center "straight" section of the rearward portion (completely opposite side from the picture). Use one tool to lift the center up enough to where you can then get a second tool under the bezel to start prying upward. You'll start hearing the clips "pop" out (it sounds like you just broke the bezel, so don't have a heart attack LOL). Now just start working your way around BOTH sides simultaneously- I tried doing it one side at a time, and the result was the opposite side would pop back into place, leading to more frustration. So just work both sides, and then pop off the front, done. Trying to figure this thing out cost me 20+ minutes, and can be done in just a few minutes.
Side note: the shiny black plastic band is actually outside the bezel, so you have to pry from the inside of that band, and don't pry on the band. The bezel comes out, and the shiny black band stays behind.
Next up
Seems simple enough... Wrong! The connector has a locking tab on the side facing away from you. You can not see it at all. I had to lay on the drivers side floor, look up with a flashlight, and see exactly what sort of locking tab it was and release it. Some of you might be electrical connector guru's and be able to just tell by feel how to release it, I'm not that guru.
Next up
Detach the shift handle wire harness from the mount- OK, you see that piece of black plastic on the left side, the white connector is tucked neatly inside there between 2 tabs that are apparently made to resist all types of tampering! I didn't want to break anything, but damn that thing truly tried my patience! Ultimately it took a flathead screwdriver to pry them apart far enough for the connector to slide out- and I didn't break them! Mission accomplished! Slipping it thru the loop- that part is nothing.
Next up
OK, this was absolutely the most frustrating part of the entire install. Did I mention I was trying to not break anything? Yeah? Well... This one ended up broken! I literally had 4 hands (me and my wife) trying to figure out how the hell you're supposed to pry outward on tabs that are opposite sides of each other, while simultaneously having a solid grip on the entire assembly (so that the prying didn't send it flying out of my hands) while also trying to pull the shift head out of the collar. Ummmm Yeah, we fought and fought and then suddenly OOPS, one of the tabs broke. :-( And even with one broken off, it still wouldn't come off. At this point I'm like "OK, point of no return now" and broke the other one off. Oh well, this collar is not needed at all with the new shifter. So save your time (and your sanity) and just break the tabs off right from the start.
next up
OK notice that the above image is 2 steps. I was immediately suspicious of this. To me it made more sense to install the set screw BEFORE putting the boot on- I just figured the leather would get in the way and make it harder to put that little set screw in place. So yeah, I went with my gut on this one, and my gut was correct. Put some Blue Locktite on that set screw, put it partially in, and THEN put the boot & zip tie on. I'm sure doing it in the order they specify will lead you to either losing the set screw, or losing your mind, or both.
Finished
It took an hour +/- to install. But knowing what I know now (and you know now) I'm sure it could be done in under 30 minutes. Hopefully this helps someone in the future.
here's the link to their instructions: http://files.dpbrands.com/hurst/instructions/5380437.pdf
OK first step:
The above does not work for 2015+ Challenger. Our bezel is not the same shape as that one, we have a more rounded shape, plus we have a shiny black outer band around it. It is virtually impossible to get any tool into the upper portion (as pictured). I do have a set of plastic trim tools (thank you Harbor Freight). After much fighting with trying to get the bezel up (being super cautious not to break or scratch anything) I finally found that the only way (at least for me) was to lift in the center "straight" section of the rearward portion (completely opposite side from the picture). Use one tool to lift the center up enough to where you can then get a second tool under the bezel to start prying upward. You'll start hearing the clips "pop" out (it sounds like you just broke the bezel, so don't have a heart attack LOL). Now just start working your way around BOTH sides simultaneously- I tried doing it one side at a time, and the result was the opposite side would pop back into place, leading to more frustration. So just work both sides, and then pop off the front, done. Trying to figure this thing out cost me 20+ minutes, and can be done in just a few minutes.
Side note: the shiny black plastic band is actually outside the bezel, so you have to pry from the inside of that band, and don't pry on the band. The bezel comes out, and the shiny black band stays behind.
Next up
Seems simple enough... Wrong! The connector has a locking tab on the side facing away from you. You can not see it at all. I had to lay on the drivers side floor, look up with a flashlight, and see exactly what sort of locking tab it was and release it. Some of you might be electrical connector guru's and be able to just tell by feel how to release it, I'm not that guru.
Next up
Detach the shift handle wire harness from the mount- OK, you see that piece of black plastic on the left side, the white connector is tucked neatly inside there between 2 tabs that are apparently made to resist all types of tampering! I didn't want to break anything, but damn that thing truly tried my patience! Ultimately it took a flathead screwdriver to pry them apart far enough for the connector to slide out- and I didn't break them! Mission accomplished! Slipping it thru the loop- that part is nothing.
Next up
OK, this was absolutely the most frustrating part of the entire install. Did I mention I was trying to not break anything? Yeah? Well... This one ended up broken! I literally had 4 hands (me and my wife) trying to figure out how the hell you're supposed to pry outward on tabs that are opposite sides of each other, while simultaneously having a solid grip on the entire assembly (so that the prying didn't send it flying out of my hands) while also trying to pull the shift head out of the collar. Ummmm Yeah, we fought and fought and then suddenly OOPS, one of the tabs broke. :-( And even with one broken off, it still wouldn't come off. At this point I'm like "OK, point of no return now" and broke the other one off. Oh well, this collar is not needed at all with the new shifter. So save your time (and your sanity) and just break the tabs off right from the start.
next up
OK notice that the above image is 2 steps. I was immediately suspicious of this. To me it made more sense to install the set screw BEFORE putting the boot on- I just figured the leather would get in the way and make it harder to put that little set screw in place. So yeah, I went with my gut on this one, and my gut was correct. Put some Blue Locktite on that set screw, put it partially in, and THEN put the boot & zip tie on. I'm sure doing it in the order they specify will lead you to either losing the set screw, or losing your mind, or both.
Finished
It took an hour +/- to install. But knowing what I know now (and you know now) I'm sure it could be done in under 30 minutes. Hopefully this helps someone in the future.