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1973 Dodge Challenger Rallye brake problem

5K views 20 replies 7 participants last post by  Jim Reindl 
#1 ·
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Auto part Automotive wheel system Automotive exterior Pipe Vehicle
Trying to fix a break issue. What is this part called? the small line that is leaking. 73 challenger rallye 318
 
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#6 ·
If the brake line is leaking, you can buy the line at an auto parts store after measuring the length and taking into account the bends. The replacement line will be straight and you will have to use a tubing bender to bend the new line without kinking it. If the fitting on top of the axle tube that fits around the vent tube or standpipe is leaking, most older well equipped autoparts stores should have a replacement brass fitting. There are also some vendors that sell the individual brake lines already pre-bent.
 
#8 ·
Not sure about on a 73 but on my 70 that junction block has a rubber flex hose crimped to it (junction block + hose is one piece) that then runs to the main hard brake line in front of the differential in the transmission tunnel which runs all the way up to the mater cylinder junction block. Through time the seats in those junction blocks corrode and the lines start leaking.

Not trying to spend your hard earned money, but if it were mine, I don't take a chance with brakes, so I would not only replace the line from the junction block to the brake drum but I would also replace the junction block at a minimum. We are not talking huge money to do this, but again, I never assume people's financial situation, so do whatever you're comfortable with.

All I know is the brake system is one of those pay me now or pay me later systems.....once you start messing with them they tend to leak elsewhere due to age and you eventually end up spending the same amount of money in total but now you're adding extra time fixing stuff in steps that you probably should have fixed all together the first time.

Whatever route you take you're also going to need to bleed your brake lines (rear at a minimum) but it would be a great time to flush your entire brake system (front & rear) since you'll need to change these parts anyway as well as open the master cylinder to bleed the lines. Given that, you may as well bleed the front lines then too..

Good luck, let us know how you make out or if you have any other questions.
 
#9 ·
Not sure about on a 73 but on my 70 that junction block has a rubber flex hose crimped to it (junction block + hose is one piece) that then runs to the main hard brake line in front of the differential in the transmission tunnel which runs all the way up to the mater cylinder junction block. Through time the seats in those junction blocks corrode and the lines start leaking.

Not trying to spend your hard earned money, but if it were mine, I don't take a chance with brakes, so I would not only replace the line from the junction block to the brake drum but I would also replace the junction block at a minimum. We are not talking huge money to do this, but again, I never assume people's financial situation, so do whatever you're comfortable with.

All I know is the brake system is one of those pay me now or pay me later systems.....once you start messing with them they tend to leak elsewhere due to age and you eventually end up spending the same amount of money in total but now you're adding extra time fixing stuff in steps that you probably should have fixed all together the first time.

Whatever route you take you're also going to need to bleed your brake lines (rear at a minimum) but it would be a great time to flush your entire brake system (front & rear) since you'll need to change these parts anyway as well as open the master cylinder to bleed the lines. Given that, you may as well bleed the front lines then too..

Good luck, let us know how you make out or if you have any other questions.
Thank you. bled all 4 brakes already and have the brake line ordered!
 
#11 ·
To add to my previous post at the age of this system it wise to replace all the brake lines & hoses. Before my 70 Duster sees the road again it's getting a whole new system. As to where the rust cones from, aside from opening up the lines & master cyl. are those flex lines. They may look & act air tight, but there not. What keeps the brake fluid in does not keep the air out, air = water, water rust things.
 
#13 ·
Lines rot out from the inside out. Judging from the rust under your car I can just about guarantee they are paper thin. Cra is ove 45 years old. Brake fluid is good for maybe 3-4 years before it has absorbed too much water to be safe anymore. Looks like your rear springs are gone also as the shocks look to be almost bottomed out. Lots of work neede on this one. Recent purchase ? Complete set of steel lines under $150. Don't get S/S lines. Very hard to get sealed. As said before replace all lines especially the 3 rubber ones. Inspect the complete hydraulic system , inside M/C, rear wheel cylinders front calipers . Flush entire system before you replace any parts. People make the mistake of changing wheel cylinders or calipers and hen flush the lines. This just make the contamination go into your new components. Number one safety item on any car is the brakes. Easy to go fast, harder to stop.
 
#14 ·
Oh it is called a brake line. There are 2 on the rear axle housing going to each wheel cylinder. A junction block with a rubber line going to the main line from the rear of the car to the proportioning/combination valve and then to the Master cylinder .
 
#20 ·
I was using the link to Inline Tube as an illustration that there are preformed lines available. Not an endorsement. They are all good companies. Just do your research and make your pick. Just 1 recommendation. Steer clear of the S/S lines. They are very difficult to get to seal properly at the fittings. The factory lines have lasted nearly 50 years. Just do a complete brake system restoration. The most important system on your car. Safety first.
 
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