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Discussion Starter #1
Hey folks, any ideas on how to get rid of the throttle lag during take off? I would love to be able to launch the car rather than just kinda lag off the line.
 

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Welcome to the Z from MS! :Hey:

Not entirely sure about your question, but I'm sure someone will chime in that will!
 

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MOPAR Top Eliminator, Carlisle 2016
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Welcome to the Z from Key West! Doing a throttle calibration might help. Do you have a tuner? You can adjust throttle sensitivity with a tuner. Enjoy!
 

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Seeing red
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Welcome to the Z from New Mexico! You have found the absolute best spot for a Challenger lover to be except for behind the wheel! Enjoy the ride!
 

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2016 Challenger Scat Pack Shaker
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Welcome from AZ.
 

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Andy
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welcome to the Z!!

I'd look at a tuner and set your throttle response...that seems to be a pretty popular fix.

Enjoy
 

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Welcome to the forum.
 

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<<< Bending Time & Space >>>
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:Racing:Hello and Welcome from Michigan. Enjoy the forum !!!:Racing:
 

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What's Old is New Again!
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Hello from Strasburg, VA

Hello and Welcome to the 'Z' from the beautiful Shenandoah Valley of Virginia. :4-wavey: Enjoy your Ride and the Site! You'll find some knowledgeable and friendly people to answer your questions or just entertain you. Glad you could join us!
 

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Welcome and most I have seen on your question that could help is pulling fuse#2 especially if you didn't buy it new and yes for the v6 you will not notice it right off the start but after a week or so depending how often you drive the car you will notice a better response. another thing I did and noticed a difference right away was this: [FONT=&quot]ETC Throttle Calibration/Characterization:[/FONT] [FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Late LX/LC Model (5.7LTR HEMI) Charger/Challenger [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Throttle[/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT][FONT=&quot]calibration[/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT][FONT=&quot]procedure. It basically does a zero/span characterization for PCM on fly-by-wire throttle system.
This procedure if followed correctly will hold until battery power is cycled again. [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Note that the throttle body assembly itself performs a self-diagnostic (full open/close) prior to every key-start.

PCM Zero/Span[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Throttle[/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Calibration[/FONT][FONT=&quot]

[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Throttle[/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Calibration[/FONT][FONT=&quot] can substantially improve throttle responsiveness over "factory standard."
Many people notice what appears to be sluggish [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]throttle[/FONT][FONT=&quot] response or a pedal "dead area" at initial accelerator depression.

[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Throttle[/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT][FONT=&quot]calibration[/FONT][FONT=&quot] can take care of these.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
Procedure steps:

1) Insert ignition key and turn to "ON" (not start).
2) Wait for all idiot lights to go out. Check Engine Light may remain on.
3) Slowly depress the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot] (HOLD to the floor for about a three second count.)[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] (On some PCM versions, Check Engine light (CEL) may start flashing here)
4) Slowly release the accelerator pedal until it's all the way back up.
5) Turn the ignition key to "OFF".
6) Start the engine.

Many drivers notice an immediate change in throttle response, but depending on your driving style, you may need to
repeat this procedure periodically due to the computer's (PCM) adaptive programming.
[/FONT]


[FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Adding a CAI will also help and the best result will come from a tuner. Hope that helps ya some.
[/FONT]
 

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Here is the info on the fuse if ya want to try that also:
[FONT=&quot]Resetting NGC (PCM) Driver Fuel Adaptive’s[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]NGC (PCM) CLEAR PROCEDURE[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]- Open the cover on the TIPM (engine fuse block/center) and pull Fuse F2[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
(25A - Front engine TIPM Electrical Distribution Center) for a count of approximately 25-30 seconds resets (clears) the NGC's Adaptive memory.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]For those that need a picture (there is a Fuse location on the lid of the TIPM) here is an overhead view[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
It is a 25 amp beige fuse! Fuse chart Fuse #2 says it is the NGC module feed.[FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]-or you can -[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]- Disconnect the POSITIVE battery Terminal and touch it to ground for 30 seconds.[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
(This is to discharge the PCM capacitors, which maintain the Adaptive Memory. Reconnect the Battery Cable.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] (pulling F2 in the TIPM is a lot faster and easier than disconnecting the battery)[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
- Turn Ignition Switch to the “On” position but DO NOT start the engine!
- Turn Headlight “On”
- Turn Headlights “Off”
- Turn Ignition Key “Off”[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Adaptive memory has now been flashed, or erased from the PCM.[/FONT][FONT=&quot]

When you start the engine it will be running off a set of pre-programmed tables that come with the PCM from the factory. [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Cycling the headlights as listed will create a "short term" fuel adaptive learn period (50 start cycles).[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Here's what it does exactly!

[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Pulling Fuse F2 resets;[/FONT][FONT=&quot]

- All PCM DTCs erased.
- All OBD2 monitor results erased.
- All "long term fuel trim adaptive" values reset to Zero.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Long term Fuel Adaptive trim will now start over the next 100 engine start cycles. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Cycle the headlights as described above will create a Short Term Fuel Adaptive trim table over the next 50 start cycles.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Driver Adaptives?[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Driver Adaptive's and related fuel table trim is probably the least understood algorithm contained within the NGC - Next Generation Controller (also called PCM)[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]There are long term fuel adaptive trim (100 start cycles) and short term fuel adaptive trim (50 start cycles). The NGC looks at what the fuel requirements to operate are during "closed loop" operations. The fuel trim algorithm is slowly and gradually attempting to bring the fuel consumption to best suit driving conditions and optimize the MPG by feedback from O2 and other sensors.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Short term and long term fuel trim are also used in analyzing KR (Knock Retard) and attempting to have the NGC (PCM) calibrate the engine timing based on quality of fuel. With different quality fuels and octane's, the NGC tries to always adjust for the best engine timing (advance/retard) to protect the engine from knock or prevent detonation. The knock sensors on the HEMI engine are quite sensitive and can be considered to be "engine microphones".[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]What is Knock Retard?[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Knock Retard (hereafter referred to as KR) is the response from the PCM to cylinder detonation. KR is the measure of the number of degrees of overall ignition timing advance that must be removed from the engine to prevent detonation from continuing, thus protecting the engine from damage. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]What is REAL KR and what is FALSE KR?[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Real KR is KR that grows with engine RPM and engine load. It depends entirely on detonation, which is dependent upon throttle position, IAT or MAF, MAP, engine load, engine temperature, and RPM. As RPM and engine load increase, the chance for KR (or higher KR) increases. As the vehicle shifts to the next gear, KR will usually make a small jump up as well due to the higher engine load.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]False knock is characterized by a sharp spike to an immediately high value of KR followed instantly by the KR Recovery Rate. It doesn't grow with engine RPM or load, it jumps to a high value on throttle input and then recovers to a low value, or zero perhaps, as engine RPM continues to increase. Note that this is exactly opposite to the characterization of REAL KR. Remember, knock is simply specific noise detected by engine microphones. Because it happens to fall within the frequency of real KR does not necessarily mean that it IS real KR.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]To learn more about "What is Knock" read this excellent and detailed write up below;[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]http://www.stlclubgp.com/tech/kr/ [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]The PCM has the ability to do some rudimentary fuel tuning (all modern vehicles now do this) via "closed loop mode". It has two main modes of operation, closed loop and open loop. When the engine is started and heated up past 160 deg. F, the NGC (PCM) now goes into "closed loop" control whereby it takes feedback from sensors (ie. IAT, MAP, O2, Knock, etc.) and looks at the fuel efficiency and attempts to tweak out the current fuel tables to get the best MPG and engine efficiency.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Tromping the accelerator to the floor puts the PCM into OPEN loop where it now goes to fixed tables to do fuel mixture and o2 sensors are now bypassed.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]So where does this wind up over time. Well, there is a number of "learn cycles" that The PCM goes into for fuel Adaptives, normal 100 start cycles, or a "quick learn" of 50 start cycles (using the headlight ON/OFF trick). During these times (cycles) fuel trim adaptive algorithms work on trying to get the best MPG. After the 100 cycles, the MPG magic is pretty much done until something is done to initial another "learn cycle" like clear memory.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]These start cycles are a fixed "time-cycle" effort to build a fuel trim table and the algorithm will stop fuel trim after these 50 or 100 start cycles.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]So if you have been driving around for a number of weeks, months in a laid back fashion, the PCM has learned this and attempted to get the best MPG for you and tuned down (slowly) performance. So, one day you tromp the gas hard or do some spirited driving and you notice the car "sluggish", or not quite as peppy as before. This could be the reason. Clearing out long term fuel table adaptive memory can sometimes help.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]The PCM has a number of classes and types of internal memory. The fuel table Adaptive's are stored in volatile memory and when the fuse (F2) is pulled for at least 20-30 seconds, this memory is cleared and you can start over building a new set of Fuel Table Adaptive's for closed loop control (next 100 start cycles).[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]If you granny drive around town your car adapts to that type of driving. Then when you want to do a lot of quick aggressive driving the vehicle may seem sluggish and not "as responsive" as you remember. You may need to do something to the PCM called clearing driving fuel Adaptive's. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]TCM Driver Adaptives?[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Now, what about the Automatic (NAG1) Transmission and its stored driver adaptives?[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]For those who wonder about NAG1 (Auto) transmission driver adaptive's, that is another animal entirely and pulling F2 does nothing
whatsoever with the TCM (Transmission Control Module). if You have a Diablo Predator tuner, you are able to use this tool to reset
the TCM via menu option.[/FONT]
 
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Welcome from north N.J.
 
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