[saviorjimenez75]

If you do use that solution please report back how it works out for you, we need actual Challenger users to report good or bad with it? Thank You! Ry

I will definetly report back, I ordered the JXB carrier upgrade yesterday and should be here sometime soon. I reached out to the company and they were very responsive and friendly. I was provided a military discount code for purchase and shipping was free; $269.99 out the door. I'd have to say, so far so good!

 

[saviorjimenez75]

I will definetly report back, I ordered the JXB carrier upgrade yesterday and should be here sometime soon. I reached out to the company and they were very responsive and friendly. I was provided a military discount code for purchase and shipping was free; $269.99 out the door. I'd have to say, so far so good!

Finally, Received the JBX Carrier housing, only took 5 days. The quality of the rubber (street) and the housing is really good compared to the thin metal OEM. Only issue I had was there was no installation instruction (no problem, YouTube shows the step by step) and no lock-tite was pre-applied to any of the hardware (will be required). Not really an issue but would have been nice to have to help identify housing orientation, rubber orientation, torque settings, and

I was able to install without removing the exhause, not by choice, just couldn't get them out of the clamps. If I had a to do it again I would definetly remove the exhaust, as it would of made the job a 10x easier. I was able to remove the hanger bolts and the drop the exhaust just couldn't remove it from the clamps.

The install can be done with exhaust still installed just have to work around the obstruction. It roughtly took 4.5-5 hours from start to finish, working from my driveway floor with a low profile jack and 4 jack stands (providing 16"-18" of clearance).

I have attached some pictures of the before and after for refrence. I've been driving around for 2 days without any cluncking or noise coming from below - I will provide an update once I get some miles under the car.

 

[Wm. Internet Rock DJ]

Looks and results sounds good, sure beats cost of a whole Drive Shaft.

 

[saviorjimenez75]

The one thing I would possibly change is the addition of specialized lock washers on the allen head bolts. These do not come with the bearing kit, but would consider using them to secure these down long term.

 

[saviorjimenez75]

Looks and results sounds good, sure beats cost of a whole Drive Shaft.

I'd say it's definelty worth the investment, however the dorman aftermarket drive shaft supports replacement u-joints and carrier bearing. Your spending about 40% of the cost but wonder if just replacing the shaft and spending more will get better value out of it. I have 140K on my SXT and not sure how much longer the OEM shaft will hold up.

 

[Wm. Internet Rock DJ]

Shaft its self with normal driving should be fine for a long time.

 

[boyohboy]

As soon as I hear anything about driveshafts the first person I think of is @RyzRT ! The one thing is, until this Thread, I wasn't aware that this was a '15-current issue. I have the 2010 R/T with just over 20K miles. It's mostly stock with just a few cosmetic Mods. Over the years I had considered getting the LSD to replace my Open Diff.
After picking up on what's been said here I'm not so sure. Also reading that possibly the added grip from wider meats may have aggravated the issue.
Regardless, there seems to be a fix now either using the one-piece driveshaft or the Dorman.
With the Challenger going away I'm not so sure that anyone will post any kind of a recall unless possibly a Class Action Suit were to be initiated. Lou.

 

[Wm. Internet Rock DJ]

As soon as I hear anything about driveshafts the first person I think of is @RyzRT ! The one thing is, until this Thread, I wasn't aware that this was a '15-current issue. I have the 2010 R/T with just over 20K miles. It's mostly stock with just a few cosmetic Mods. Over the years I had considered getting the LSD to replace my Open Diff.
After picking up on what's been said here I'm not so sure. Also reading that possibly the added grip from wider meats may have aggravated the issue.
Regardless, there seems to be a fix now either using the one-piece driveshaft or the Dorman.
With the Challenger going away I'm not so sure that anyone will post any kind of a recall unless possibly a Class Action Suit were to be initiated. Lou.

There is also now a Carrier Bearing Bushing Replacement far better design then the OEM.

Driveshaft Carrier Upgrade - LD Facelift Dodge Charger/Challenger/Chrysler 300 — JXB Performance

Replace your worn or torn center support bearing carrier without removing it from the driveshaft or removing the driveshaft from the car. Performance driveshaft (propshaft) carrier upgrade keeps your driveshaft perfectly aligned, reduces drivetrain slop, and doesn't sag or wear out over time. 2-pi

www.jxbperformance.com

 

[jklotz10]

As soon as I hear anything about driveshafts the first person I think of is @RyzRT ! The one thing is, until this Thread, I wasn't aware that this was a '15-current issue. I have the 2010 R/T with just over 20K miles. It's mostly stock with just a few cosmetic Mods. Over the years I had considered getting the LSD to replace my Open Diff.
After picking up on what's been said here I'm not so sure. Also reading that possibly the added grip from wider meats may have aggravated the issue.
Regardless, there seems to be a fix now either using the one-piece driveshaft or the Dorman.
With the Challenger going away I'm not so sure that anyone will post any kind of a recall unless possibly a Class Action Suit were to be initiated. Lou.

On the 2010 models the center driveshaft carrier bearing can be replaced. I'm not sure what year the design changed where the bearing was not serviceable.
Rockauto sells the MOPAR bearing replacement for $190.
1A auto has a video on youtube for doing the fix. If you have a bearing splitter and gear puller you can do it yourself.
You do need to remove the driveshaft from the car though.

 

[Wm. Internet Rock DJ]

On the 2010 models the center driveshaft carrier bearing can be replaced. I'm not sure what year the design changed where the bearing was not serviceable.
Rockauto sells the MOPAR bearing replacement for $190.
1A auto has a video on youtube for doing the fix. If you have a bearing splitter and gear puller you can do it yourself.
You do need to remove the driveshaft from the car though.

They Changed in 2015 ...

 

[saviorjimenez75]

There is also now a Carrier Bearing Bushing Replacement far better design then the OEM.

Driveshaft Carrier Upgrade - LD Facelift Dodge Charger/Challenger/Chrysler 300 — JXB Performance

Replace your worn or torn center support bearing carrier without removing it from the driveshaft or removing the driveshaft from the car. Performance driveshaft (propshaft) carrier upgrade keeps your driveshaft perfectly aligned, reduces drivetrain slop, and doesn't sag or wear out over time. 2-pi

www.jxbperformance.com

That's the one I used on my 2016 Challenger replacement. So far car has been running like a top

 

[Roc1978]

Yeah, the rubber is broken. 64k miles on this one.

At only 64k, you might see if it's covered under warranty. I think the '16 had a 100k mile drivetrain warranty.

 

[saviorjimenez75]

At only 64k, you might see if it's covered under warranty. I think the '16 had a 100k mile drivetrain warranty.

I think Dodge snuck one on us, there is a 3yr./36K standard warranty and a 5yr/60K extended warranty. If there is no extended premium warranty purchased then the Dodge just avoided a 2K warranty repair!

 

[Dodgeguy]

I think Dodge snuck one on us, there is a 3yr./36K standard warranty and a 5yr/60K extended warranty. If there is no extended premium warranty purchased then the Dodge just avoided a 2K warranty repair!

2016 Started the 5 year 60,000 mile power train warranty, 3 year 36,000 mile bumper to bumper warranty.

 

[RyzRT]

Finally, Received the JBX Carrier housing, only took 5 days. The quality of the rubber (street) and the housing is really good compared to the thin metal OEM. Only issue I had was there was no installation instruction (no problem, YouTube shows the step by step) and no lock-tite was pre-applied to any of the hardware (will be required). Not really an issue but would have been nice to have to help identify housing orientation, rubber orientation, torque settings, and

I was able to install without removing the exhause, not by choice, just couldn't get them out of the clamps. If I had a to do it again I would definetly remove the exhaust, as it would of made the job a 10x easier. I was able to remove the hanger bolts and the drop the exhaust just couldn't remove it from the clamps.

The install can be done with exhaust still installed just have to work around the obstruction. It roughtly took 4.5-5 hours from start to finish, working from my driveway floor with a low profile jack and 4 jack stands (providing 16"-18" of clearance).

I have attached some pictures of the before and after for refrence. I've been driving around for 2 days without any cluncking or noise coming from below - I will provide an update once I get some miles under the car. View attachment 318088 View attachment 318089 View attachment 318090 View attachment 318091 View attachment 318093 View attachment 318094 View attachment 318095

Impressive that you did all that with the exhaust still in place, you definitely are loaded with tenacity! The final results look very good, you should be proud after accomplishing that! I hope it holds up and does the job we all need it to do over time, keep an eye on it please. Nice pictures too! Ry

 

[RyzRT]

Shaft its self with normal driving should be fine for a long time.

That is true with circumstantial conditions being.

How long was the center support flopping loose before it was actually discovered?

Because it being completely loose was way out of alignment and causing additional wear to the CV joints at each end.

Mine actually made noise for 10,000 miles and we could not discover where the noise was actually coming from, at earlier hearing it sounded like it was coming from the right front tire, I even changed wheel bearings trying to silence the sound.

Once discovering where the sound was actually coming from, the really scary thing, was realizing how hard I had previously driven, and what I was trusting driving on. There have been many center support failures since then! Ry

 

[RyzRT]

We all have a responsibility to ourselves and those loved ones that ride in our Challengers to be 100% aware of what you are actually driving on, and in, and trusting!

So when you get new tires don't just sit in the waiting room and assume, ask to go out and inspect underneath your car when they are done, even those companies with no customers allowed back, will go out with you, and allow you to inspect, underneath your car.

Nine times out of ten if they find something wrong they will ask you to come out and look at it yourself, to justify you paying to replace it, so doing your own inspection for something like the center support bearing being loose, is just good common sense, when you have this opportunity to do so.

When underneath the car you cannot see the center support bearing housing because of the heat shield that keeps exhaust heat from cooking the bearing area. But you can see the driveshaft out of each end of the heat shield and if you push up and pull down on the driveshaft, it should move no more than a quarter inch each way, more than that, you have a problem.

This issue is overlooked even at Dodge service departments because of the heat shield, out of sight out of mind, if not for the heat shield the issue would be easily seen and a problem reported. Unfortunately most are not discovered until the rubber support is torn completely loose from the frame and bearing.

Dodge makes some great vehicles, but Dodge does not make perfect vehicles, and neither does any other vehicle manufacturer on the planet, there is something wrong somewhere on all of them.

As the customer and owner, make it your responsibility to simply research and find these problems that have happened to other Challenger owners, and keep an eye on the known issue for your own safety, don't think it won't happen to you. Ry

 

[MIDNITE RT]

We all have a responsibility to ourselves and those loved ones that ride in our Challengers to be 100% aware of what you are actually driving on, and in, and trusting!

So when you get new tires don't just sit in the waiting room and assume, ask to go out and inspect underneath your car when they are done, even those companies with no customers allowed back, will go out with you, and allow you to inspect, underneath your car.

Nine times out of ten if they find something wrong they will ask you to come out and look at it yourself, to justify you paying to replace it, so doing your own inspection for something like the center support bearing being loose, is just good common sense, when you have this opportunity to do so.

When underneath the car you cannot see the center support bearing housing because of the heat shield that keeps exhaust heat from cooking the bearing area. But you can see the driveshaft out of each end of the heat shield and if you push up and pull down on the driveshaft, it should move no more than a quarter inch each way, more than that, you have a problem.

This issue is overlooked even at Dodge service departments because of the heat shield, out of sight out of mind, if not for the heat shield the issue would be easily seen and a problem reported. Unfortunately most are not discovered until the rubber support is torn completely loose from the frame and bearing.

Dodge makes some great vehicles, but Dodge does not make perfect vehicles, and neither does any other vehicle manufacturer on the planet, there is something wrong somewhere on all of them.

As the customer and owner, make it your responsibility to simply research and find these problems that have happened to other Challenger owners, and keep an eye on the known issue for your own safety, don't think it won't happen to you. Ry

What’s involved with removing the heat shield, a few bolts ? How long should it take ? I’m thinking it would be worth it for a proper inspection of the rubber support.