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Hello everyone,

I’m new to this forum and would like to ask if there’s any recourse on a vehicle that has been gently driven with low kilometers having a clicking noise for about a year now without the mechanics being able to figure out what’s wrong only to hear yesterday that we have to replace the drive shaft to the tune of $2000.

Any recourse with Dodge on this??? Sounds like there’s been a lot of driveshaft issues for the Challenger.

appreciate any feedback:)
 

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I'm going to leave this to RyzRT:D
 
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Well here's another carrier bearing center support rubber failure, since yours is a 2016 you have to replace the entire driveshaft assembly. Been there and I feel your grief and concern, but in my situation I replaced mine myself and had no labor charge to deal with.
$2,000 is very expensive, what does that entail? You can probably get a one piece Aluminum driveshaft for less if you can install yourself and put this entire issue in the rear view mirror.

The reality is once you actually experience this failure especially if you swap it out yourself and see it with your own eyes, you cannot get it out of your mind daily driving, it is always in the back of your mind it can and probably will happen again.

Tire Automotive tire Wheel Bicycle tire Synthetic rubber


With a close up inspection this was what mine looked like.

The link that Dodgeguy posted is IMO the cheapest solution and I have been keeping an eye on that very thing, it looks like a very good product you can actually install without removing the driveshaft, that is how I would do it. Sorry you are dealing with this! Ry
 

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welcome from ny , i would contact dodge cares
 

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2021 R/T Scat Pack Shaker Widebody
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Welcome from Alabama. I agree. 2K is very expensive./ Shop around. Good luck.
 

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Well here's another carrier bearing center support rubber failure, since yours is a 2016 you have to replace the entire driveshaft assembly. Been there and I feel your grief and concern, but in my situation I replaced mine myself and had no labor charge to deal with.
$2,000 is very expensive, what does that entail? You can probably get a one piece Aluminum driveshaft for less if you can install yourself and put this entire issue in the rear view mirror.

The reality is once you actually experience this failure especially if you swap it out yourself and see it with your own eyes, you cannot get it out of your mind daily driving, it is always in the back of your mind it can and probably will happen again.

View attachment 303690

With a close up inspection this was what mine looked like.

The link that Dodgeguy posted is IMO the cheapest solution and I have been keeping an eye on that very thing, it looks like a very good product you can actually install without removing the driveshaft, that is how I would do it. Sorry you are dealing with this! Ry
Yup, I would replace it with a one piece aluminum DSS drive shaft and be done with it forever. BTW, you will feel the difference in power to the wheels with the new drive shaft.
 
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Yup, I would replace it with a one piece aluminum DSS drive shaft and be done with it forever. BTW, you will feel the difference in power to the wheels with the new drive shaft.
I concur, you will feel the difference!
 

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Yup, I would replace it with a one piece aluminum DSS drive shaft and be done with it forever. BTW, you will feel the difference in power to the wheels with the new drive shaft.
So, a one piece drive shaft reduces drive train loss? :unsure:
 

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2021 R/T Scat Pack Shaker Widebody
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Well Yes, You are eliminating the resistance of the center support bearing and the center CV joint.
I would think the flexing of the rubber support grommet would take a little as well.
 

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I would think the flexing of the rubber support grommet would take a little as well.
That's true, the rubber flexing slightly changes the angle of the CV Joint which either adds more or less resistance. When you change from the 2 piece OEM driveshaft to the one piece, your rear end will break loose with a lot less accelerator applied. IF, you have been practicing times like 0 ~ 60, you will have to re-learn launching off the line. IMO, it is worth it! :)
 
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That's true, the rubber flexing slightly changes the angle of the CV Joint which either adds more or less resistance. When you change from the 2 piece OEM driveshaft to the one piece, your rear end will break loose with a lot less accelerator applied. IF, you have been practicing times like 0 ~ 60, you will have to re-learn launching off the line. IMO, it is worth it! :)
Why does Dodge use the 2 piece shaft? Is it just cheaper or does it have another benefit? Less vibration?
 

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My apologies moderators, I did not realize this was the Newbie Check In!

@LowKchallengers, Welcome from South Carolina! :)
 

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Hello everyone,

I’m new to this forum and would like to ask if there’s any recourse on a vehicle that has been gently driven with low kilometers having a clicking noise for about a year now without the mechanics being able to figure out what’s wrong only to hear yesterday that we have to replace the drive shaft to the tune of $2000.

Any recourse with Dodge on this??? Sounds like there’s been a lot of driveshaft issues for the Challenger.

appreciate any feedback:)
I did a DIY repair on mine using Windo-weld.
 

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