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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi all, I bought a 6 speed 2010 R/T hemi in December used with 101k miles. I baby this lady for sure. It's never had any issue until tonight. I had my oil changed yesterday at a regular jiffy lube cause I just moved here and didnt know where to take it yet. Got the recommended synthetic for hemi and all that. The guy asks if I want the 100k maintenance done and mentions the gearbox. I say, lemme see if it was done and if not, Ill do it. Im not saying its Jiffy lube, but its weird this happened with zero symptoms right after I go there.

So I get off the freeway tonight, no issues. Approaching the first red light, the car starts to stall like it would if I were coming to a stop in gear without the clutch engaged. It clunks with that same stalling sound, stalls and dies and wont start. It starts the second time I try. I get it to the next light and it does the same thing. I coasted to that second light - just put it neutral. Usually, it just glides on down, but this time it was clunking, knocking and stalling. Anyway, it was rough like a thrown rod but not as loud and metal sounding. More bass, I guess. Im just trying to get it to the strip mall now. Third time I start it up and its not even accelerating. Thankfully, I get it in the strip mall and halfway into a parking space. It smells like burning wood. I know what burning oil smells like and that radiator fluid smell too. I swear it smelled like a campfire had just been put out.

So heres some details. It will reverse without issues. It will start and idle both in neutral and in any gear without noises or smells. I never did smell that burning again. I got it to accelerate in first and second and itll move about 4-6 inches and then it feels like Ive hit some resistance. Theres a little give and then the car kinda rolls back and gives up. Uh, like if youve ever gone over a speed bump too slow and it rolls back instead of going over. Kinda like that. I didnt push it at all after I got into the strip mall, so Im not sure about the clunking from there, but I feel like if I kept accelerating, it would clunk and die again. Called the ex husband who knows a little about cars. He mentions the gearbox and sprockets and a few other potential problems. Jesus, Im car illiterate. Theres oil, its full and clean. I tested the clutch, put it in third and let off the clutch. It stalled gently as expected without issue so Im thinking its not my clutch.

Im thinking Ill have it towed to a dodge dealer tomorrow but if anyone can help me out with some suggestions on what it might be, perhaps I can avoid paying for unnecessary repairs or try something myself or with my dad (hes a mech engineer so he might be able to help.)

(posting a couple pics I took tonight in case it helps)

Thanks for reading my novel :)

(fyi, the car is in the Temecula/Murrieta area, in case anyone knows someone in that area)
 

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It does sound like a transmission issue, but I really am not sure.Did they maybe drain the fluid in the transmission and not refill it? Thinking you were going to have the service done.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It does sound like a transmission issue, but I really am not sure.Did they maybe drain the fluid in the transmission and not refill it? Thinking you were going to have the service done.
Well, I wouldn't know if they did anything else. I know the tech showed me the oil dipstick, which I've actually never had anyone do before, so I remember that, and the gearbox mention. I checked the oil dipstick tonight after the whole fiasco and the level was fine, no foam or anything.

I feel like for it to be the transmission, there would be some kind of warning sign - a check engine light, maybe some gear grinding or sticking, a strange smell - but there was nothing. It ran fine to jiffy lube, fine all the way home, and fine for the 5 or 6 miles from my house, down the freeway and to that first red light after the off ramp. It's the craziest thing. I keep thinking it's an air or fuel intake issue but I'm so not familiar with that. Not arguing or anything. Stranger things have happened.
 

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With a manual there would be no ck engine light. Also if it had a engine running issue you would probably have a ck engine light.
 

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It does sound like a transmission issue, but I really am not sure.Did they maybe drain the fluid in the transmission and not refill it? Thinking you were going to have the service done.
That could be a possibility because burnt gear oil has a funky smell to it,especially when gears and syncro's run dry and hot.
 

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Sounds transmission related to me, but I am no expert. Unfortunately there is no good way to check the fluid in the transmission without getting under the car somehow with the right tools.

Please let us know once you find out what the cause is.
 

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I would be VERY suspicious that the Jiffy Lube "Tech" drained your trans oil and then didn't refill it or refilled it with the wrong oil. Most likely just left it dry. Save your receipt from there so that they will buy you a new transmission, these 6 speeds are expensive and if they destroyed it they will have to buy you a new one as long as you can prove they were under there messing with it.
 

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When you get it towed make sure you are there with a picture taking device.Get them to put it on the lift and take a picture of the fill plug and drain plug to document if it was disturbed.Then take a video of them removing the drain plug to see if there is any fluid in it.Take a picture of your receipt and copy it also,just in case you loose it.
 

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I am not a big believer in coincidence when it come to things like this. As mentioned above, my first thought would be no fluid in trans after touched by amateurs. I would suggest you do like orangecrush said and document everything. Most of the people you find working in jiffy lube type shops have little to no experience, and can not be counted on to perform service the way we want it. You would not be the first to have problems, I had a friend who was showed rear gear oil and said change it. He found out dif plug was not reinstalled 150 miles away when he burned up rear end. I had never seen axles that blue in my life from the heat!! Good luck with the dealer, that should be your best choice at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
UPDATE

OK I got it to an awesome mechanic down the street from the strip mall. He drives it a few feet and says the wheel is locking up when he hits the brake. So I ask about a stuck caliper. He agrees. I follow him a block to his shop and he's using the e brake to slow at stop signs and there's no stalling. He gets it up on the lift. The lower caliper bolt on the front passenger side is gone and you can move the whole caliper back and touch the wheel. He says this is why it would reverse but not drive. Going forward, the caliper scrapes the wheel, sticks and locks it. There's long scrape marks in the wheel. I got a pic but I'll post it later since I can't seem to upload it on my cell phone. He's fixing it right now and then a test drive to make sure there's nothing else wrong. I'll update when it's running like normal.
 

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Well, that sure takes a load off your mind! Good to hear. Luckily nothing happened while you were on the road. I might suggest if you trust this mechanic, have him look over the car just to make sure you are safe. It would seem who ever did the last brake work was mechanically declined. Good luck, and enjoy your car!!
 

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UPDATE

OK I got it to an awesome mechanic down the street from the strip mall. He drives it a few feet and says the wheel is locking up when he hits the brake. So I ask about a stuck caliper. He agrees. I follow him a block to his shop and he's using the e brake to slow at stop signs and there's no stalling. He gets it up on the lift. The lower caliper bolt on the front passenger side is gone and you can move the whole caliper back and touch the wheel. He says this is why it would reverse but not drive. Going forward, the caliper scrapes the wheel, sticks and locks it. There's long scrape marks in the wheel. I got a pic but I'll post it later since I can't seem to upload it on my cell phone. He's fixing it right now and then a test drive to make sure there's nothing else wrong. I'll update when it's running like normal.
Soooooo much better than a burnt out transmission. Did the Jiffy Lube guys do anything to your brakes?
 

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UPDATE

OK I got it to an awesome mechanic down the street from the strip mall. He drives it a few feet and says the wheel is locking up when he hits the brake. So I ask about a stuck caliper. He agrees. I follow him a block to his shop and he's using the e brake to slow at stop signs and there's no stalling. He gets it up on the lift. The lower caliper bolt on the front passenger side is gone and you can move the whole caliper back and touch the wheel. He says this is why it would reverse but not drive. Going forward, the caliper scrapes the wheel, sticks and locks it. There's long scrape marks in the wheel. I got a pic but I'll post it later since I can't seem to upload it on my cell phone. He's fixing it right now and then a test drive to make sure there's nothing else wrong. I'll update when it's running like normal.
Well that is a lot better than a broken transmission, great news.
 
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That is good news right there....
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
If anyone wants the mechanic info, you know, if youre in the Temecula/Murrieta area (Ca). Its Eli Complete Auto Repair in Murrieta, Ca. Just a dinky father/son shop, but they were amazing. Thanks to everyone for the suggestions and Im glad it was none of those things lol! Its bleak to diagnose on forums, I know, but its helping me learn things. Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Soooooo much better than a burnt out transmission. Did the Jiffy Lube guys do anything to your brakes?
I dont think so. It would be impossible to connect anything. Jiffy Lube was cool when I went there. The manager gave me $20 off cause I had my german shepherd and hes a fan. They seemed legit. One tech did say that when he checked the tire pressure, a little air leaked when he removed the valve. But it was the rear passenger, he patched it and that was fine. My caliper bolt broke on the front passenger. I highly doubt Jiffy Lube messed with a caliper bolt, at least on purpose. Thats not something theyd fix at a lube shop chain, so its not like Id go back there. Perhaps it was a bit faulty when I bought it or some rough braking. Either way, it was $133 for the whole repair. Im too happy to be upset right now, lol!
 

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I dont think so. It would be impossible to connect anything. Jiffy Lube was cool when I went there. The manager gave me $20 off cause I had my german shepherd and hes a fan. They seemed legit. One tech did say that when he checked the tire pressure, a little air leaked when he removed the valve. But it was the rear passenger, he patched it and that was fine. My caliper bolt broke on the front passenger. I highly doubt Jiffy Lube messed with a caliper bolt, at least on purpose. Thats not something theyd fix at a lube shop chain, so its not like Id go back there. Perhaps it was a bit faulty when I bought it or some rough braking. Either way, it was $133 for the whole repair. Im too happy to be upset right now, lol!
Glad it worked out for you.
 
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