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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
The behavior regarding acceleration and barely starting suggests a problem with the fuel system. Not too far fetched to believe the thumping may be fuel system (fuel pump?) related rather than driveshaft related. But the driveshaft being the source of the thumping needs to be confirmed/eliminated.
Here are clips with the sound. Might be hard to hear but it's making like a loud fast grind/pop/knock sound as opposed to before where it just wouldn't accelerate. So clearly it's getting worse I just hope it's not too bad of a problem. Challenger noise - Google Drive
 

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Update I checked under and everything seems fine. I actually got a P0171 code last night and I assumed it was a loose 02 sensor (I used to be catless so I was used to seeing that code and re tightening them) but upon checking they were tight. And the driveshaft was okay too. So I read up and took out my CAI to clean it and it was FILTHY! I had forgot to mention a few weeks ago on the way to work a car infront of me merged to the side a bit which threw a CRAP load of dirt to the front end of my car and im assuming it went straight to the filter. It started acting weird almost immediately after that, I felt a difference right after. Anyways I cleaned it and all that mud/buildup so lets hope that does the trick. And I also did the battery disconnect. I can hear the slight thumping in the engine still and I can try and get a sound clip later. It might be too subtle to catch but lets hope all goes well. Oh and I have a K&N Typhoon
The P0171 code can also arise from an intake leak or an exhaust leak, bad MAF, fuel pressure/fuel pump, or HOS2 (heated oxygen sensor).

Before when you saw this code you tightened the O2 sensors. But you need to check the exhaust system. "Used to be catless" means someone's been wrenching on the exhaust system. Too often this results in an exhaust leak or an exhaust system that is not secure and can move about which can cause -- if only temporarily -- an exhaust leak. The thumping could arise if the exhaust system is loose or improperly secured.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
The P0171 code can also arise from an intake leak or an exhaust leak, bad MAF, fuel pressure/fuel pump, or HOS2 (heated oxygen sensor).

Before when you saw this code you tightened the O2 sensors. But you need to check the exhaust system. "Used to be catless" means someone's been wrenching on the exhaust system. Too often this results in an exhaust leak or an exhaust system that is not secure and can move about which can cause -- if only temporarily -- an exhaust leak. The thumping could arise if the exhaust system is loose or improperly secured.
Yea makes sense. And so this morning I got another code so now in at P0171 and P0174 I just dont see how this could be linked to the loss in power?? That sound sounds mechanical
 

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Yea makes sense. And so this morning I got another code so now in at P0171 and P0174 I just dont see how this could be linked to the loss in power?? That sound sounds mechanical
Because I do not have access to the official Dodge OBD2 diagnostic manual I have to rely upon searches...

From this link:


the presence of P0171/P0174 points to an intake leak. The leak is after the sensor which determines how much air the engine is consuming which means the calculated fuel injector pulse widths are wrong and the engine is not being fueled for maximum power which can result in a power drop off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Because I do not have access to the official Dodge OBD2 diagnostic manual I have to rely upon searches...

From this link:


the presence of P0171/P0174 points to an intake leak. The leak is after the sensor which determines how much air the engine is consuming which means the calculated fuel injector pulse widths are wrong and the engine is not being fueled for maximum power which can result in a power drop off.
Ohh okay so where would be a good starting point? New Injectors?
 

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Throwing parts at a mis-diagnosed problem can cost you a fortune and you may still have the same issue. Follow the Rockster and check for an intake leak. You got a propane torch? If not, an oxy/acet torch setup? I'll explain how to find the leak.
-John
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Throwing parts at a mis-diagnosed problem can cost you a fortune and you may still have the same issue. Follow the Rockster and check for an intake leak. You got a propane torch? If not, an oxy/acet torch setup? I'll explain how to find the leak.
-John
Very true. Which is kind of why I don't want to take it to the Dodge here (they've already done that to me costing me a lot a while back) and well I tightened the intake to torque specs and I admit it did sort of make it shift smoother but it still has that top end problem. Unfortunately I do not have a torch. Im taking it with a friend today who fixes and works on mopars so lets see if he can find anything especially with his computer
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Because I do not have access to the official Dodge OBD2 diagnostic manual I have to rely upon searches...

From this link:


the presence of P0171/P0174 points to an intake leak. The leak is after the sensor which determines how much air the engine is consuming which means the calculated fuel injector pulse widths are wrong and the engine is not being fueled for maximum power which can result in a power drop off.
Have you run your own diagnostics on it?

I bought a Blue Driver https://www.amazon.com/BlueDriver-B...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== and it has saved me a lot of concern when a check engine light goes on as to whether it is an instant issue or one that can wait to be fixed, it will also show you codes that have been deleted in case of the car being previously owned. You probably already have a diagnostic tool this plugs into the OBD2 port and reads through an app on your Android or Iphone, helps to know exactly what is wrong, especially if you have to go to a dealers service department they cannot exploit the problem. Also there are many things wrong that you can fix yourself.

Simple: Possibly Water in your gas tank, add some fuel line drier to remove it.

Dirty fuel injectors, try Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance
I am a firm believer in this product, I use it myself, and it did make a difference.

You could have a bad knock sensor?
ok so we sort of narrowed it down. When I step on it the car doesnt want to shift gears after a certain point and then it backfires like Crazy, and thats the sound ive been hearing. Doesnt accelerate and it is just loud popping. Any ideas? He did say my coolant was low but not sure if its related. And we still arent sure if the codes are related to any of this neither
 

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ok so we sort of narrowed it down. When I step on it the car doesnt want to shift gears after a certain point and then it backfires like Crazy, and thats the sound ive been hearing. Doesnt accelerate and it is just loud popping. Any ideas? He did say my coolant was low but not sure if its related. And we still arent sure if the codes are related to any of this neither
If my coolant reservoir runs low it does not affect the cars running, top that off with the proper MOPAR OAT coolant but that is not the running problem.

You've never said what year the car is, so what is it?

Also was it catless when you bought it, or did you do that yourself?
Going catless and defeating these error codes can come with consequences with the ECM (Engine Control Module), the brain that actually controls it all, lets hope that is not it.

In your first post you mentioned replacing plugs and coil packs? Did you do those?
When you replace coil packs you never replace just one, you replace all 8 of them.

List everything you have actually done to attempt to resolve these issues?

On my 2015 I did replace my spark plugs and my coil packs, the spark plugs looked visually fine, gap and all, when I changed them out and I could not tell an engine running difference, but the coil packs definitely made a difference. Time I cranked up the car after the new 8 coil pack installation, it never sounded smoother idling and the performance was noticeably better.

According to what I had discovered the coil packs are not service listed to be replaced, so I guess Dodge expects them to last forever , but they do not, as even the brand new MOPAR replacements are not warranted for life. So why Dodge does not list them with a service wise interval of replacement, IDK, I did not replace mine with the MOPAR brand, I used Blue Streak, simply because they were warranted longer than the MOPARs, also got mine from Rock Auto.

After a lot of research I did discover some horror stories one was a guys coil pack completely failed and took out his ECM with it.

I know by now you are so frustrated you do not know what to do, there are some of us that are researching and trying to help you get it resolved, I would suggest if you have close to 50,000 miles on your car to replace the coil packs. Simply because there are no coil packs you can buy that are warranted for that much mileage, so why would they even begin to last that long? Ry
 

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Not sure what happened with that double posting?
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
If my coolant reservoir runs low it does not affect the cars running, top that off with the proper MOPAR OAT coolant but that is not the running problem.

You've never said what year the car is, so what is it?

Also was it catless when you bought it, or did you do that yourself?
Going catless and defeating these error codes can come with consequences with the ECM (Engine Control Module), the brain that actually controls it all, lets hope that is not it.

In your first post you mentioned replacing plugs and coil packs? Did you do those?
When you replace coil packs you never replace just one, you replace all 8 of them.

List everything you have actually done to attempt to resolve these issues?

On my 2015 I did replace my spark plugs and my coil packs, the spark plugs looked visually fine, gap and all, when I changed them out and I could not tell an engine running difference, but the coil packs definitely made a difference. Time I cranked up the car after the new 8 coil pack installation, it never sounded smoother idling and the performance was noticeably better.

According to what I had discovered the coil packs are not service listed to be replaced, so I guess Dodge expects them to last forever , but they do not, as even the brand new MOPAR replacements are not warranted for life. So why Dodge does not list them with a service wise interval of replacement, IDK, I did not replace mine with the MOPAR brand, I used Blue Streak, simply because they were warranted longer than the MOPARs, also got mine from Rock Auto.

After a lot of research I did discover some horror stories one was a guys coil pack completely failed and took out his ECM with it.

I know by now you are so frustrated you do not know what to do, there are some of us that are researching and trying to help you get it resolved, I would suggest if you have close to 50,000 miles on your car to replace the coil packs. Simply because there are no coil packs you can buy that are warranted for that much mileage, so why would they even begin to last that long? Ry
Yea I will order those asap. And well I went catless by having them cut out and welded straight pipe, and then after some trouble (california smh) I bought a set of stock midpipes with the cats and I mean the car ran perfectly fine after that up until now so I really doubt they are related. But as far as fixing the current issue I torqued the intake manifold bolts to spec, and cleaned my cai which was pretty bad. I really hope its not the ecm also
 

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Yea I will order those asap. And well I went catless by having them cut out and welded straight pipe, and then after some trouble (california smh) I bought a set of stock midpipes with the cats and I mean the car ran perfectly fine after that up until now so I really doubt they are related. But as far as fixing the current issue I torqued the intake manifold bolts to spec, and cleaned my cai which was pretty bad. I really hope its not the ecm also
Reason I asked if you had a propane or Acetylene torch is that you can find intake leaks that way. you turn on the gas and run it along the seams where the intake seals and also everyplace a hose connects including the PCV valve. A radical change in running will occur. One of the club cars with loose intake bolts did no good to tighten them. When we took off the manifold, 2 of the "O" ring gaskets were pulled out part way and nearly got pulled into the engine. The "Gas Test" was the only way we found the leak.
-John
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Reason I asked if you had a propane or Acetylene torch is that you can find intake leaks that way. you turn on the gas and run it along the seams where the intake seals and also everyplace a hose connects including the PCV valve. A radical change in running will occur. One of the club cars with loose intake bolts did no good to tighten them. When we took off the manifold, 2 of the "O" ring gaskets were pulled out part way and nearly got pulled into the engine. The "Gas Test" was the only way we found the leak.
-John
Oh gotcha! I mean I do have a propane tank but that's about it
 

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Oh gotcha! I mean I do have a propane tank but that's about it
For intake leaks I've used a aerosol can of carb cleaner. With the engine up to temperature and idling spray some cleaner along where the intake joins the heads. If there is a leak the carb cleaner will be sucked in and the engine should react. It may speed up or stumble. But if it reacts...

Carb cleaner is non flammable and easier to work with that any flammable gas.

I'm a bit concerned regarding your comment about cleaning the CAI "which was pretty bad". It is not a good sign the filtration system is working properly to have any real amount of dirt in the intake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
For intake leaks I've used a aerosol can of carb cleaner. With the engine up to temperature and idling spray some cleaner along where the intake joins the heads. If there is a leak the carb cleaner will be sucked in and the engine should react. It may speed up or stumble. But if it reacts...

Carb cleaner is non flammable and easier to work with that any flammable gas.

I'm a bit concerned regarding your comment about cleaning the CAI "which was pretty bad". It is not a good sign the filtration system is working properly to have any real amount of dirt in the intake.
I'll give it a shot! And well its because a while back a car threw a Ton of dirt at my front. And it almost instantly felt funny after that. And with rain etc it eventually basically turned to mud
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
For intake leaks I've used a aerosol can of carb cleaner. With the engine up to temperature and idling spray some cleaner along where the intake joins the heads. If there is a leak the carb cleaner will be sucked in and the engine should react. It may speed up or stumble. But if it reacts...

Carb cleaner is non flammable and easier to work with that any flammable gas.

I'm a bit concerned regarding your comment about cleaning the CAI "which was pretty bad". It is not a good sign the filtration system is working properly to have any real amount of dirt in the intake.
So I did it and nothing happened. I guess thats a good thing but also frustrating because everything seems "perfect" when it just isn't haha. Not sure at all what it can be at this point
 

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What year is your Challenger and how many miles are on it?
 

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So I did it and nothing happened. I guess thats a good thing but also frustrating because everything seems "perfect" when it just isn't haha. Not sure at all what it can be at this point
That there was no reaction suggests there is no intake air leak.

I'm still troubled by your mention the intake needed cleaning. If anything got "past" the filter that's not right. And any dirt can foul the sensor (MAP I think) that is used to determine how much air the engine is using to thus determine how much fuel to inject.

You can still arrange to demo this behavior to (at least in my experience with my Hellcat) the dealer's shop foreman, arranging a ride along.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
That there was no reaction suggests there is no intake air leak.

I'm still troubled by your mention the intake needed cleaning. If anything got "past" the filter that's not right. And any dirt can foul the sensor (MAP I think) that is used to determine how much air the engine is using to thus determine how much fuel to inject.

You can still arrange to demo this behavior to (at least in my experience with my Hellcat) the dealer's shop foreman, arranging a ride along.
That does make sense however with all the sensors and codes these cars have you think it would set off a code ? My engine light hasn't been on for a couple days but the codes are still there in diagnostics (p0171 p0174)
 
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