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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
That there was no reaction suggests there is no intake air leak.

I'm still troubled by your mention the intake needed cleaning. If anything got "past" the filter that's not right. And any dirt can foul the sensor (MAP I think) that is used to determine how much air the engine is using to thus determine how much fuel to inject.

You can still arrange to demo this behavior to (at least in my experience with my Hellcat) the dealer's shop foreman, arranging a ride along.
So I read that it can also be the Crankshaft position sensor. It has all the symptoms of that but it's not tripping the engine light I guess sometimes it can take up to months from what I've read. Does it sound like it can be that?
 

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So I read that it can also be the Crankshaft position sensor. It has all the symptoms of that but it's not tripping the engine light I guess sometimes it can take up to months from what I've read. Does it sound like it can be that?
Probably not because you would have misfires all over the RPM band. It's easy to replace but, I hate to see you spend money on a part that don't fix the problem.
-John
 

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Your intake manifold bolts should have definitely been loose, since you tightened those at least you won't be loosing power because of that.
 

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That does make sense however with all the sensors and codes these cars have you think it would set off a code ? My engine light hasn't been on for a couple days but the codes are still there in diagnostics (p0171 p0174)
If the engine light is off the codes are not active but stale.

Generally to read active, pending or permanent codes requires specific requests to the engine controller. Not sure how what you are using to read the codes handles obtaining all these codes, or even if can obtain all these codes.

But the two codes may be permanent in that the engine controller has to go through a number of warm up cycles with no error condition present before it removes the codes.
 

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So I read that it can also be the Crankshaft position sensor. It has all the symptoms of that but it's not tripping the engine light I guess sometimes it can take up to months from what I've read. Does it sound like it can be that?
No direct experience with a crankshaft position sensor (CPS) but as with any electrical device it can fail at any time. Or become loose and provide an ambiguous signal to the engine controller.

CPS failure is rather rare. And my talking with techs and reading posts by those who have actually experienced a bad sensor the behavior you describe does not agree with the behavior they reported.

If it is the CPS while there is no check engine light I'd hazard a guess there is a proprietary error code logged. One that a Dodge tech could read with the Dodge diagnostic computer. He can also monitor the CPS voltage wave form and determine the sensor's correct (or not) operation.

You can skip from possible explanation to possible explanation all you want but at some point someone is going to have to get his hands dirty and make a proper diagnosis. My advice is take the car to a qualified tech and demo the behavior and let the tech make the diagnosis.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
No direct experience with a crankshaft position sensor (CPS) but as with any electrical device it can fail at any time. Or become loose and provide an ambiguous signal to the engine controller.

CPS failure is rather rare. And my talking with techs and reading posts by those who have actually experienced a bad sensor the behavior you describe does not agree with the behavior they reported.

If it is the CPS while there is no check engine light I'd hazard a guess there is a proprietary error code logged. One that a Dodge tech could read with the Dodge diagnostic computer. He can also monitor the CPS voltage wave form and determine the sensor's correct (or not) operation.

You can skip from possible explanation to possible explanation all you want but at some point someone is going to have to get his hands dirty and make a proper diagnosis. My advice is take the car to a qualified tech and demo the behavior and let the tech make the diagnosis.
Yea exactly it falls into too many categories. Well I have an appointment set for the 23rd. I'm told by shops here that Dodge needs to hook it up to their software or what not since I guess they can't access everything fully. Lets see. This dodge just has told me in the past I need this I need that when it's not. I wouldnt be surprised if they called me within 30 min of me dropping it off just to say "you need a new transmission"
 

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One more thing to try. The controllers have limited memory to store error codes. Lets reset and purge the memory capacitors. Remove BOTH battery cables. Hold them together for 30 full seconds. Yes, you are shorting the battery cables together. It's the only way to clear everything as if a brand new PCM on the assembly line. Now reconnect the cables to the battery. Oh yea, when removing cables, Negative first, then positive. When installing, Positive first, negative last. The electricity don't care either way. Its to prevent short circuit accidents.
-John
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
One more thing to try. The controllers have limited memory to store error codes. Lets reset and purge the memory capacitors. Remove BOTH battery cables. Hold them together for 30 full seconds. Yes, you are shorting the battery cables together. It's the only way to clear everything as if a brand new PCM on the assembly line. Now reconnect the cables to the battery. Oh yea, when removing cables, Negative first, then positive. When installing, Positive first, negative last. The electricity don't care either way. Its to prevent short circuit accidents.
-John
Ok I'll try that when I get home. Update, today the light came back on and during lunch it barely started up. Getting quite annoying lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
One more thing to try. The controllers have limited memory to store error codes. Lets reset and purge the memory capacitors. Remove BOTH battery cables. Hold them together for 30 full seconds. Yes, you are shorting the battery cables together. It's the only way to clear everything as if a brand new PCM on the assembly line. Now reconnect the cables to the battery. Oh yea, when removing cables, Negative first, then positive. When installing, Positive first, negative last. The electricity don't care either way. Its to prevent short circuit accidents.
-John
UPDATE! Holy crap I think it worked. I did that and I went for a lil drive to the gas station and at first it felt super jolty but then seemed to fix itself. I did some pulls after getting gas and it felt strong and shifted again! No more backfire and bogging. I will say though it has a harder time reaching 100+ but im sure that has to do with the road I was on + my worn tires and yes im replacing them soon haha. I even did a launch using the launch control and Yep she feels back alive! So crazy what can happen when computers hiccup. Thank you all again! And i'll update if it comes back or whatever
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
One more thing to try. The controllers have limited memory to store error codes. Lets reset and purge the memory capacitors. Remove BOTH battery cables. Hold them together for 30 full seconds. Yes, you are shorting the battery cables together. It's the only way to clear everything as if a brand new PCM on the assembly line. Now reconnect the cables to the battery. Oh yea, when removing cables, Negative first, then positive. When installing, Positive first, negative last. The electricity don't care either way. Its to prevent short circuit accidents.
-John
Sad update. The problem came back. First the bogging and then the check engine light codes a while after. I guess we'll see what dodge says on the 23rd
 
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