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I really did not consider going to a one piece driveshaft to be a performance upgrade until I swapped out the OEM two piece driveshaft for a DSS (The Driveshaft Shop) one piece 4" Aluminum driveshaft, but after a few days of driving and every time I drive now, I discover something different in the performance realm.

The engine output to rear end response is pretty much instantaneous now, and the resistance of an extra CV joint and carrier bearing is gone, so there is less drive line resistance being applied to the operation of the drive line. The car does not respond like it did before the change, it is like a completely different car, you would have had to drive before and after the change to fully understand, but there is a noticeable difference.

There is more unrestricted power reaching the rear end, which translates to more tire spin, which of course adds to the dilemma of getting off the line with a good launch, but that consequence is most welcomed to me. But the fact that suddenly increasing throttle in 3rd gear and not to the floor, got tire spin put a smile across my face, that had never happened in the past.

When I went from an open differential to a limited slip, I got the smile from both tires laying down solid rubber. When I added the 93 octane tune written by Sean at Hemifever Tuning I got the smile as well. But I honestly was not expecting the smile going from the OEM 2 piece driveshaft assembly to a one piece Aluminum, but the smile is there!

What led to me getting the one piece driveshaft was the carrier bearing failure that led to replacing the OEM two piece assembly, but IMO, because of the cost did not warrant getting a single driveshaft of 1,000+HP rated on a 5.7L HEMI, that cost me a little over a thousand dollars. Unfortunately after the carrier bearing failure I could not get completely comfortable running the two piece OEM anymore, as the mental picture of the failure was permanently burned into my mind. So I made the decision to go to the one piece driveshaft, but did not need the Carbon Fiber on an engine probably at 400HP now, so a 1,000HP rated driveshaft is way overkill.

FYI: Any of you not aware of the carrier bearing failure here is the link to it: Replacing My Drive Shaft! WARNING!

Increased performance was a really good side effect when all I was really after was peace of mind, and increased confidence in the car! Only those that are actually running the single driveshaft in their Challengers, whether Aluminum or Carbon Fiber, can co-confirm any differences they have noticed, so I invite them to add their 2 cents in this thread.

Thanks and be Safe everyone! :) Ry
Hey Ry, I have been following this thread for a while and I have a question for you. So think about this one for a minute before you answer. Can you say whether or not you have noticed any performance degradation over time as your drive shaft has deteriorated?

Now the bigger question, It stands to reason there would be an improvement in performance with the lighter one piece driveshaft. I have been looking at carbon fiber and aluminum and all the reviews report that.

Then the fact that you have removed the carrier bearing so less friction no matter how minimal.

Do you think the profound power increase you feel is attributed to just the Drive shaft or was there a degradation you maybe didn't pick up on that makes it feel more then it would be if you replaced it before the two piece came apart?
 
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My 09 didn't degrade nor fail. I swapped an opened up a new world of hotroddin.
just my feedback. .
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Hey Ry, I have been following this thread for a while and I have a question for you. So think about this one for a minute before you answer. Can you say whether or not you have noticed any performance degradation over time as your drive shaft has deteriorated?

Now the bigger question, It stands to reason there would be an improvement in performance with the lighter one piece driveshaft. I have been looking at carbon fiber and aluminum and all the reviews report that.

Then the fact that you have removed the carrier bearing so less friction no matter how minimal.

Do you think the profound power increase you feel is attributed to just the Drive shaft or was there a degradation you maybe didn't pick up on that makes it feel more then it would be if you replaced it before the two piece came apart?
As far as degradation of the OEM that failed yes there was noticeable performance degradation as it failed but the measurement looking back over it was inconsistent 0 ~ 60 times, which I considered at the times of the runs to be road surface and how I accelerated even on the very same road surface to launch off of.

With the brand new OEM that was installed I immediately was able to run consistent 4.7 second 0 ~ 60 times 3 in a row on concrete and 1 on smooth blacktop asphalt. That stayed consistent for quite a few 0 ~ 60s the day before swapping to the single Aluminum driveshaft, after the swap, I had to relearn launching the car as what I had been used to launching, now just busted loose spinning. So after practicing to discover just how much pedal to apply the consistent 4.7 times are now consistent 4.5 times and those were done as close to the same temperatures outside, the same road surfaces, and times of day.

There will be a consistent performance gain going from the worn OEM to a new OEM, but once the OEM carrier rubber support comes completely apart, you'll be forced to change it because you will definitely know you have a scary problem.

I have zero regrets going to the one piece aluminum driveshaft Johnnyreb, the only way to fully understand the differences is driving immediately before and after the swaps. Ry
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
My 09 didn't degrade nor fail. I swapped an opened up a new world of hotroddin.
just my feedback. .
That is a good way of describing the difference, by saying "opened up a new world of hotroddin", the owner will just have to do their on comparison as to the difference between the OEM 2 piece and the single piece driveshaft as there is a noticeable difference in consistency.
 
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As far as degradation of the OEM that failed yes there was noticeable performance degradation as it failed but the measurement looking back over it was inconsistent 0 ~ 60 times, which I considered at the times of the runs to be road surface and how I accelerated even on the very same road surface to launch off of.

With the brand new OEM that was installed I immediately was able to run consistent 4.7 second 0 ~ 60 times 3 in a row on concrete and 1 on smooth blacktop asphalt. That stayed consistent for quite a few 0 ~ 60s the day before swapping to the single Aluminum driveshaft, after the swap, I had to relearn launching the car as what I had been used to launching, now just busted loose spinning. So after practicing to discover just how much pedal to apply the consistent 4.7 times are now consistent 4.5 times and those were done as close to the same temperatures outside, the same road surfaces, and times of day.

There will be a consistent performance gain going from the worn OEM to a new OEM, but once the OEM carrier rubber support comes completely apart, you'll be forced to change it because you will definitely know you have a scary problem.

I have zero regrets going to the one piece aluminum driveshaft Johnnyreb, the only way to fully understand the differences is driving immediately before and after the swaps. Ry
Thanks Ry and Hemifever, That answers my question. I don't think I'm ready for a new driveshaft until I get some better traction but I am looking for a new direction to go for performance upgrades after that.

I'm not really interested in a super charger or that direction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Thanks Ry and Hemifever, That answers my question. I don't think I'm ready for a new driveshaft until I get some better traction but I am looking for a new direction to go for performance upgrades after that.

I'm not really interested in a super charger or that direction.
The drive line load begins for those of us that have a stock open differential and swap to a Limited Slip of any sized ratio it does not matter, once traction is applied to both rear tires the extra pressure affects the OEM driveshaft. That is not as bad though if you are still running the stock 245 tires which are actually a drive line safety factor Dodge has set in place on these cars, that is why the 392 Scat Pack comes with stock 245 width tires, one of the things RacerX has been know to complain about on numerous of his You Tubes.

However with most of us spinning the heck out of the 245s we go to wider rear rims to run wider tires, that is where the trouble really starts. HemiMetal has brought up that the wider rims and tires are heavier, so the wider the rim and tire combination the more drive line stress is increased. So then you get to the cumulative point of increased drive line stress, and even though the OEM driveshaft can handle 392 Scat Pack power to the differential, that is design specific to 245 tires. So even though the stock OEM driveshaft can handle the 392 Scat Pack horsepower on 245 tires, it drastically changes the drive line stress with wider rims and tires. Which means it does not require the 392s HP to cause enough drive line stress, to cause the failure of the rubber mounting of the center carrier bearing. Since some of the 5.7L owners going to wider rims and tires, and running other performance mods and a tune, have discovered this the hard way, it would seem to be an even more of a concern to Scat Pack owners that the first thing they did was go with the wider rear rims and tires. Just something for all to think about. Ry
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
@Johnnyreb

If you are keeping your OEM driveshaft, just make sure you check it regularly that the center rubber support is in good condition, you do have a safety factor as it is enclosed in a metal loop, that at least will keep it from dropping out from under the car. But if you ever hear a sound while driving like playing cards on bicycle spokes coming from the front right wheel, check it immediately!
 
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The drive line load begins for those of us that have a stock open differential and swap to a Limited Slip of any sized ratio it does not matter, once traction is applied to both rear tires the extra pressure affects the OEM driveshaft. That is not as bad though if you are still running the stock 245 tires which are actually a drive line safety factor Dodge has set in place on these cars, that is why the 392 Scat Pack comes with stock 245 width tires, one of the things RacerX has been know to complain about on numerous of his You Tubes.

However with most of us spinning the heck out of the 245s we go to wider rear rims to run wider tires, that is where the trouble really starts. HemiMetal has brought up that the wider rims and tires are heavier, so the wider the rim and tire combination the more drive line stress is increased. So then you get to the cumulative point of increased drive line stress, and even though the OEM driveshaft can handle 392 Scat Pack power to the differential, that is design specific to 245 tires. So even though the stock OEM driveshaft can handle the 392 Scat Pack horsepower on 245 tires, it drastically changes the drive line stress with wider rims and tires. Which means it does not require the 392s HP to cause enough drive line stress, to cause the failure of the rubber mounting of the center carrier bearing. Since some of the 5.7L owners going to wider rims and tires, and running other performance mods and a tune, have discovered this the hard way, it would seem to be an even more of a concern to Scat Pack owners that the first thing they did was go with the wider rear rims and tires. Just something for all to think about. Ry
Yeh, as you know I am running the Michelin sport AS3+ 275's on the rear, 245's on the front.

Let me say this for the new people before I go any farther, I went on line and read piles of info about tires before I bought these and the web sights all rated these Michelin's as the top tire and they are a nice riding tire, but I spin these babies like a set of bicycle tires. I was told several times by people on this forum what tires they were running and why and I went with the internet recommends. Listen to people on here that are actually running this equipment. Twice I didn't twice I was sorry.

Back to the conversation. I have a Shaker RT Plus w/track pack so I have the closed differential. I had them check the Driveline when I had the rear alignment and they said it was fine, I looked it over when it was on the lift and it all looked and felt tight. But I only have 20.000 miles on the car.

For me this is a performance upgrade at this point. I don't mind spending money on my hot rod but I hate wasting it. That's why I was curious about how much bang you got for your bucks. Also it looks like it might take a while to get the parts so ordering ahead would be a bonus if I want it by summer. Those who have been following my upgrades know that parts have been a pain in the tail for me so far. I lost all last summer trying to get everything finished up to this point.

The big question now is Carbon Fiber or Aluminum. Carbon is scary in cost but I only want to do it once.

Thanks again for the info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 · (Edited)
The big question now is Carbon Fiber or Aluminum. Carbon is scary in cost but I only want to do it once.

Thanks again for the info.
Since I was going to a one piece driveshaft I did consider the Carbon Fiber, but they are the same hp rating 1,000+ according to the website, so an additional $800 for a slight weight difference was not worth it to me. Plus the carbon fiber does not take well to scratching which the rear aluminum heat shield did to my Aluminum driveshaft but I caught that is was happening and there is no real damage other than a slight paint loss. However if you remove the rear heat shield as I did, it won't touch the Carbon Fiber shaft, but there was no warning that could even happen, they only referenced an exhaust clearance warning. Hp wise, 1,000+ is way more than I'll come close to even if I go forced induction later! Very pleased with the 4" Aluminum driveshaft, smooth as glass ride! Ry
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
266482


Ran consecutive back to back 4.4 second 0 ~ 60s, I attribute that consistency to the one piece Aluminum Driveshaft, as it is less drive line resistance, not bad for a Challenger 5.7L HEMI that started out the best time I could get was 5.7 seconds. Earlier in the performance upgrading process I did hit 4.4 just one time with the old OEM driveshaft before the rubber completely tore loose, with the new replacement OEM I could only get a consistent 4.7. The one piece driveshaft shaft with it's less resistance, took quite a bit of foot learning to get off the line fast with as little spin as possible even with the 295s on the rear. But a consistent 4.4 second time on different launching surfaces for my Challenger was a Moonwalk day! :) Ry
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Wow this one piece driveshaft is just getting better and better, at getting this upgraded 5.7s power to the road.
267375


I cannot get over how smooth the one piece driveshaft actually is. Honestly the amount of 5.7 and 6.4 owners that take their cars to the drag strip and are still running the 2 piece OEM driveshaft, are missing out on some performance numbers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Ry is this the one you got except for you're year?
The years before 2015 are different some come with adapter plates and the manual is different from the automatic but that's the aluminum shaft for the manual 5.7L R/T, if the years are correct for your Challenger that is it. Give them a call and talk to them about it.
 
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I'm glad to hear you are happy with your new driveshaft, but you need to be aware of the potential dangers involved. When an aluminum shaft explodes, it sends shards of debris in every direction. These shards can travel through the bottom of your vehicle; which could result in a fatality. If you're going to stick with a 1 piece shaft, go with carbon fiber. 100% safe - extremely effective.
 

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I'm glad to hear you are happy with your new driveshaft, but you need to be aware of the potential dangers involved. When an aluminum shaft explodes, it sends shards of debris in every direction. These shards can travel through the bottom of your vehicle; which could result in a fatality. If you're going to stick with a 1 piece shaft, go with carbon fiber. 100% safe - extremely effective.
well, if that happens, I hope it does kill me, I also hope it is at 200+ mph, I'll be grinning ear to ear. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
I'm glad to hear you are happy with your new driveshaft, but you need to be aware of the potential dangers involved. When an aluminum shaft explodes, it sends shards of debris in every direction. These shards can travel through the bottom of your vehicle; which could result in a fatality. If you're going to stick with a 1 piece shaft, go with carbon fiber. 100% safe - extremely effective.
True, But I've seen pictures of OEM driveshafts doing the same thing and coming through a Hellcats floor board. With my power level I don't see that happening but anything is possible. None the less I will consider your suggestion as the Carbon Fiber is lighter and even less resistance. Thanks!
 
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True, But I've seen pictures of OEM driveshafts doing the same thing and coming through a Hellcats floor board. With my power level I don't see that happening but anything is possible. None the less I will consider your suggestion as the Carbon Fiber is lighter and even less resistance. Thanks!
If you don't mind, post some pics of the install.
 
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