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Hey Ry. I've just been reading over this again to refamiliarize myself with the entire installation process because I'll be installing my one piece driveshaft in the next couple of weeks.

I don't recall seeing any torque spec numbers unless I just completely read over them. What were the torque spec numbers for the bolts on the one piece driveshaft?

Thanks, Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
Hey Ry. I've just been reading over this again to refamiliarize myself with the entire installation process because I'll be installing my one piece driveshaft in the next couple of weeks.

I don't recall seeing any torque spec numbers unless I just completely read over them. What were the torque spec numbers for the bolts on the one piece driveshaft?

Thanks, Dave
NOTE INFORMATION: This is for 2015 and newer Challenger 1 piece 4" Aluminum Driveshaft, In my bolt packages from the DSS there were some extra stuff, a C ring, a C clip, and 2 hose band clamps, disregard those they are extra stuff that came in the packages, all you need are the bolts and the 2 bolt connect washers. The bolts are 8mm HEX Key (AKA Allen Head), and the torque value is 57 ft.lbs.
 
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Discussion Starter · #84 ·

Anyone interested in doing this upgrade, this video from Speedy's Garage is super informative!
Is that the driveshaft you are getting?

Mine has CV joints on both ends the one in the video has a Universal Joint at one end?

Those were not as smooth as the CV both ends, that's probably why they went to the CV joints on both ends, BMason had actually make a comment about high speed vibration in one of his videos.

 

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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
If you watch BMasons video he shows the hellcat vs the demons stock driveshaft and you can clearly see the carrier bearing support is beefier.
 
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Ry, I don't know for certain. I will be checking it out when I'm able to get to the shop where it's being delivered to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #87 ·
Ry, I don't know for certain. I will be checking it out when I'm able to get to the shop where it's being delivered to.
Hopefully you are getting the one with CV joints both ends.
Use the Blue (Medium Strength) Threadlocker on the bolts.
 
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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
You might have said it, but how much weight you think this saved?
Weight wise I really don't know, a few lbs maybe, holding in hand they seem pretty close in weight, but that is not the reason I bought it.
I bought it to get rid of the resistance of the carrier bearing support, which consists of the bearing, the alignment angle stress, plus the additional CV joint as well.
But mainly to never be concerned again with the center support failure.
I'm sure you can Google the weight difference between the stock OEM and the 4" Aluminum driveshaft, I do know the Carbon Fiber driveshaft is lighter, but not how much either.
Sorry, I am not any more help on this. Ry
 

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Hey all. I wanted to post this for anyone thinking about purchasing a one piece aluminum driveshaft on the used market. I purchased one used and everything about it was great except...the length. The one I purchased came off of a Hellcat with the HP90 and 5.7s and 6.4s have HP70s as most of you know. While I recommend the driveshaft, just make sure you know that it fits. I'm sure anyone reading this is wondering "why didn't he find that out before all of this?" Well myself, nor the seller, knew about this issue until this morning when we went to bolt on the driveshaft. After speaking with a representative of DSS, my driveshaft is being shipped to them tomorrow to be lengthened and rebalanced. They said that this will be about a four week turnaround. The seller is splitting the cost of the rebalancing with me because he had no idea that this would he an issue. I was really hoping to be able to give some positive feedback on the one piece driveshaft today but unfortunately that's not happening.

So just be aware if you're on a budget build to check things like this.
20210405_102226.jpg
20210405_101934.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
Hey all. I wanted to post this for anyone thinking about purchasing a one piece aluminum driveshaft on the used market. I purchased one used and everything about it was great except...the length. The one I purchased came off of a Hellcat with the HP90 and 5.7s and 6.4s have HP70s as most of you know. While I recommend the driveshaft, just make sure you know that it fits. I'm sure anyone reading this is wondering "why didn't he find that out before all of this?" Well myself, nor the seller, knew about this issue until this morning when we went to bolt on the driveshaft. After speaking with a representative of DSS, my driveshaft is being shipped to them tomorrow to be lengthened and rebalanced. They said that this will be about a four week turnaround. The seller is splitting the cost of the rebalancing with me because he had no idea that this would he an issue. I was really hoping to be able to give some positive feedback on the one piece driveshaft today but unfortunately that's not happening.
Sorry you are going through this Dave, I know how excited you were about getting yours installed and this is a real bummer! Ry
 
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Sorry you are going through this Dave, I know how excited you were about getting yours installed and this is a real bummer! Ry
Yes sir, bud. I hope it's a four week turnaround like they told me. I was speaking with a friend of mine yesterday who had one on his Corvette years ago. He loved it but when it initially arrived( and he bought his brand new), his was too short. He said it was months before he got it back and the shop owner where he got it done was fighting with DSS about them taking so long to get it back to them. Hopefully I won't have that kind of experience.
 

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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
Installed the TBA differential brace.
Hellcat/Demon Diff Brace

Word of caution, TBA ships the installation kit with the Red High Strength Threadlocker, however the brace covers up the differentials top fill port so the brace will have to be removed to service the differential when changing fluid. For that reason I used the Blue Medium Strength Threadlocker instead, since the Red High Strength has to be removed with heat and I have no intentions of using a torch on my differential just to break the bolts back loose to remove the brace. Not sure why they saw the need to supply Red Threadlocker for a differential, I can understand it for a wheel bearing hub as replacing one of those is because it is worn out anyway, but not a differential that has seals that torch heat could damage.

For my 400+ HP the brace is overkill but it does make the rear end feel much tighter and wheel spin is now pretty much instantaneous with very little throttle. Ry
 

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Discussion Starter · #94 · (Edited)
I know this is going to sound crazy, fellow Challenger owners.

BUT, if my one piece driveshaft failed today, I would replace it with another one, (maybe not from the same company, if it failed, and they would not stand behind it,), but would still go with a one piece driveshaft. IMO that is what should have been under the car in the first place!

I know it would have been a more expensive route for Dodge to have taken, but it would have separated them from the pack. What I mean is since Dodge was all about horsepower, but only to a certain extent, here is your horsepower, now get it to the road.

It is hard to explain the difference in response from the 2 piece OEM to One Piece driveshaft so I'm relating it to a Freight Train. There is a highly exaggerated thing that happens in a Freight Train when they first tighten up the cars they are pulling. The engine lurches forward and you hear all the car couplers tightening as the engine pulls forward, and you hear the couplers clank and tighten up, all the way back to the last car. (Highly Exaggerated!)

Now if the train engine was only pulling one car there would still be a coupler clank tighten up happening!

Relating to the Challenger center support bearing, it has a CV joint in the assembly and it is much smoother than the clanky train coupler, but still a subtle smooth tighten up that the Challenger makes with the OEM two piece driveshaft.

This happens not only on acceleration but deceleration as well, it is smooth, but still a connecting link, with a certain amount of lag or resistance, and backlash at times, I personally think the backlash is what causes the carrier bearing rubber support to fail.

There is lag, resistance, and backlash, in that OEM 2 piece driveshaft design that you don't even notice is there until it is gone from going to a one piece driveshaft. The very first driving experience after the change is a Holy Crap moment for any of us that have gone to the one piece driveshaft.

I still remember my first thoughts, if I had know this it would have been my first mod! Ry
 

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I can't wait to feel exactly what you're talking about Ry. Hopefully I'll have mine in the next month or so.
 

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I am getting one installed now (car has been at the shop since Friday and I think they were going to start on it yesterday). I don't know if I will actually notice the difference from the driveshaft swap as profoundly as you. I am also getting a Supercharger, and Stall converter and a differential brace. I am hoping everything is tight except my converter. :D
 
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