It worked on mine but I had a OEM Hellcat exhaust installed at the same time.
5.7L HEMI Upgrade to a One Piece Driveshaft.
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27 Posts
Hello All,
I just wanted to add to the discussion of this and mention that yet another person has experienced this issue. So please forgive me for this long post. I am trying to get all my thoughts out with what I went through. I have a post started about this as well with some information as well (Car is making a "vrrr" noise). Unfortunately it is locked from adding more comments. So, I will add to this discussion.
I would like to thank Ry and the other members for bring this to my attention and helping me through this process, especially Ry for helping when I ran into some issues and pointing me in the direction to work through it.
I am happy to say that my beast is back on the road, but it was not a smooth process. I did go through some troubles and would like share some of the issues that I went through and hope to help someone out in the future.
Before I go on I need to mention a little bit of legal. I want to say what I am about to document is not certified mechanic advice. I am not a certified mechanic, I am just a car enthusiast who likes working on his own vehicles. I am not giving out mechanical advice, so please don't take what I am saying as such. If you are unsure, I would recommend you consult a certified mechanic. All I am doing is documenting my struggles in hopes to shine light on the process that I took to fix this drive shaft bearing issue.
For some background I have a 2016 Dodge Challenger Scat Pack 392 Hemi Scat Pack purchased brand new and she has about 97K miles on her (just broke that mark today). I also live in Michigan, and if anyone knows we don't have nice weather year round. The joke is we have two main seasons, winter and construction. The reason I bring this up is because I do daily drive my Challenger and this will come into play later on in this post.
So I won't repeat myself with how I got to the point, please read my original post at the link above. I decided to replace it with a 4" one piece aluminum drive shaft from the Drive Shaft Shop.
Getting into it, I used a bore scope to inspect the center support bearing to see if I could see any degradation to the rubber bushing. Sure enough, there was. The bore scope did not show completely the severity of it.
![282193]()
![282195]()
![282196]()
![282197]()
As you can see from the above images, the rubber was about to become completely separated from the drive shaft.
Going back to my statement from above regarding living in Michigan and daily driving my car. The below image is how far I managed to get the exhaust through means of repeated blunt force persuasion (i.e. dead blow hammer).
![282198]()
Now my advice for you will be to not go that route and go the route where I was to the point of no longer asking nicely for it to come out. Get your self a come along and two ratchet straps.
![282199]()
In the above image I have the loose part of the ratchet strap No.1 wrapped around the X-Pipe section of the exhaust and the hook connected to the main part of the come along.
![282200]()
![282201]()
In the above two images you can see the chain of the come along going to the rear of the vehicle where I have the loose part of ratchet strap No. 2 connected to the cutouts in the subframe of the car and the come along hooked onto that. The strap of the ratchet strap is then wrapped around the hook of the come along and a little bit of the chain to protect the differential from getting damaged.
![282202]()
Now if you have someone to help you, I would suggest that you get them to help you support the rear of the exhaust as I found that you needed to completely disconnect it so that it had enough room for it to shift back so that it can slide off the down pipes. As you can see in the above picture I used a creeper that can convert into a chair with a scrap 2x2 and 2x1 zip-tied together to be able to span the space between the two rear mufflers.
![282203]()
Once the exhaust was separated, I converted the creeper back to its flat state and used it to maneuver the entire exhaust out from under the car. It is tricky as its center of gravity is more to the rear so you will have to play around to be able to it balanced on the creeper or your method of removing it from under the car.
I just wanted to add to the discussion of this and mention that yet another person has experienced this issue. So please forgive me for this long post. I am trying to get all my thoughts out with what I went through. I have a post started about this as well with some information as well (Car is making a "vrrr" noise). Unfortunately it is locked from adding more comments. So, I will add to this discussion.
I would like to thank Ry and the other members for bring this to my attention and helping me through this process, especially Ry for helping when I ran into some issues and pointing me in the direction to work through it.
I am happy to say that my beast is back on the road, but it was not a smooth process. I did go through some troubles and would like share some of the issues that I went through and hope to help someone out in the future.
Before I go on I need to mention a little bit of legal. I want to say what I am about to document is not certified mechanic advice. I am not a certified mechanic, I am just a car enthusiast who likes working on his own vehicles. I am not giving out mechanical advice, so please don't take what I am saying as such. If you are unsure, I would recommend you consult a certified mechanic. All I am doing is documenting my struggles in hopes to shine light on the process that I took to fix this drive shaft bearing issue.
For some background I have a 2016 Dodge Challenger Scat Pack 392 Hemi Scat Pack purchased brand new and she has about 97K miles on her (just broke that mark today). I also live in Michigan, and if anyone knows we don't have nice weather year round. The joke is we have two main seasons, winter and construction. The reason I bring this up is because I do daily drive my Challenger and this will come into play later on in this post.
So I won't repeat myself with how I got to the point, please read my original post at the link above. I decided to replace it with a 4" one piece aluminum drive shaft from the Drive Shaft Shop.
Getting into it, I used a bore scope to inspect the center support bearing to see if I could see any degradation to the rubber bushing. Sure enough, there was. The bore scope did not show completely the severity of it.
As you can see from the above images, the rubber was about to become completely separated from the drive shaft.
Going back to my statement from above regarding living in Michigan and daily driving my car. The below image is how far I managed to get the exhaust through means of repeated blunt force persuasion (i.e. dead blow hammer).
Now my advice for you will be to not go that route and go the route where I was to the point of no longer asking nicely for it to come out. Get your self a come along and two ratchet straps.
In the above image I have the loose part of the ratchet strap No.1 wrapped around the X-Pipe section of the exhaust and the hook connected to the main part of the come along.
In the above two images you can see the chain of the come along going to the rear of the vehicle where I have the loose part of ratchet strap No. 2 connected to the cutouts in the subframe of the car and the come along hooked onto that. The strap of the ratchet strap is then wrapped around the hook of the come along and a little bit of the chain to protect the differential from getting damaged.
Now if you have someone to help you, I would suggest that you get them to help you support the rear of the exhaust as I found that you needed to completely disconnect it so that it had enough room for it to shift back so that it can slide off the down pipes. As you can see in the above picture I used a creeper that can convert into a chair with a scrap 2x2 and 2x1 zip-tied together to be able to span the space between the two rear mufflers.
Once the exhaust was separated, I converted the creeper back to its flat state and used it to maneuver the entire exhaust out from under the car. It is tricky as its center of gravity is more to the rear so you will have to play around to be able to it balanced on the creeper or your method of removing it from under the car.
Joined
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27 Posts
Now the next bit of trouble that I ran into was trying to get the old drive shaft out of the car. The rear section that goes into the differential came out with some love taps of a hammer and a block of wood. The block of wood was used as the striking surface for the hammer as to not cause damage to the differential input hub.
![282204]()
If done correctly you should see the input part of the differential like above. And if you live where there is rust you will need to clean up the hub as well.
Trying to get the drive shaft out of the transmission was not as easy.
![282206]()
![282205]()
Now for me, the end separated and the ball bearing came flying out everywhere with a bunch of grease. So now I had the struggle of trying to get the remaining part of the cup out. I soaked it in penetrating fluid and let it sit for a little before coming back with the hammer and block of wood. Now you may be asking how did this happen. This I will admit is a bit of over sight on my part and I should have know this would have happened. I used the come along to put linear pressure on it so that when I hit it with the block of wood and hammer is would pop out. Instead it separated. So I recommend just take your time and be patient and keep tapping with the wood and hammer method and soak in plenty of penetrating fluid and it should eventually come out.
Once out, all you need to do is clean it and not you are ready for installation of the new drive shaft. Follow the instructions provided with the new drive shaft.
The one other issue that you may run into especially if you are still running the stock exhaust is that you will have to modify it a little.
![282207]()
I had to take a hammer and dent in the inner corner of the passenger side mid muffler on the side closest to the front of the vehicle because it was causing a rubbing issue when the exhaust was fully hung and bolted back in. If you are using the same drive shaft as I did it mentions that there may be issue of exhaust interference and some modification may required.
But I think this concludes my journey with this. So far I am happy. Don't get discouraged if you run into similar or different issues. With some basic mechanics skills you should be able to accomplish this.
Thanks for taking the time to read this.
Regards,
Knightshade2.0
If done correctly you should see the input part of the differential like above. And if you live where there is rust you will need to clean up the hub as well.
Trying to get the drive shaft out of the transmission was not as easy.
Now for me, the end separated and the ball bearing came flying out everywhere with a bunch of grease. So now I had the struggle of trying to get the remaining part of the cup out. I soaked it in penetrating fluid and let it sit for a little before coming back with the hammer and block of wood. Now you may be asking how did this happen. This I will admit is a bit of over sight on my part and I should have know this would have happened. I used the come along to put linear pressure on it so that when I hit it with the block of wood and hammer is would pop out. Instead it separated. So I recommend just take your time and be patient and keep tapping with the wood and hammer method and soak in plenty of penetrating fluid and it should eventually come out.
Once out, all you need to do is clean it and not you are ready for installation of the new drive shaft. Follow the instructions provided with the new drive shaft.
The one other issue that you may run into especially if you are still running the stock exhaust is that you will have to modify it a little.
I had to take a hammer and dent in the inner corner of the passenger side mid muffler on the side closest to the front of the vehicle because it was causing a rubbing issue when the exhaust was fully hung and bolted back in. If you are using the same drive shaft as I did it mentions that there may be issue of exhaust interference and some modification may required.
But I think this concludes my journey with this. So far I am happy. Don't get discouraged if you run into similar or different issues. With some basic mechanics skills you should be able to accomplish this.
Thanks for taking the time to read this.
Regards,
Knightshade2.0
Joined
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127 Posts
Any balance issues with the new shaft? Everything you thought it be? Thanks.
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27 Posts
I hear a resonence/drone at certain speeds. Not sure if its been there always, or if its from the new shaft or if its because I beat the snot out of the exhaust. Im not bothered by it since I cruz at about 80mph on the freeway and I don't hear it. At lower speeds its not audible.
Other than that it has made the car so much better. More responsive and it seems faster at take offs from stop lights/signs. You can feel the power being put down to the pavement. Even if people don't have the issue that myself and others went through I still recommend doing this upgrade. All honesty, it feels like a new car.
Other than that it has made the car so much better. More responsive and it seems faster at take offs from stop lights/signs. You can feel the power being put down to the pavement. Even if people don't have the issue that myself and others went through I still recommend doing this upgrade. All honesty, it feels like a new car.
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6,271 Posts
Drive shafts and center bearing 2 piece shafts et al. The new cars with the center bearing seems to fly in the face of what we have seen in the past. For instance, my 1974 2WD Suburban had a one piece shaft and was longer than some small cars. Same with my 1991 Suburban but it was a little shorter because it was 4WD
The answer seems to be a solid rear axle with integrated welded axle tubes vs. a IRS setup with a pumpkin mounted in rubber bushings. For some reason, the engineers don't want a lot of hanging load on the pinion bearings nor any sort of misalignment of the rear section of the shaft and the angle of the pinion. Eventually, the aftermarket parts jobbers are going to pick up on the need and a replacement factory replica unit will be available. I think we all agree that too many of these center bearings are failing.
-John
The answer seems to be a solid rear axle with integrated welded axle tubes vs. a IRS setup with a pumpkin mounted in rubber bushings. For some reason, the engineers don't want a lot of hanging load on the pinion bearings nor any sort of misalignment of the rear section of the shaft and the angle of the pinion. Eventually, the aftermarket parts jobbers are going to pick up on the need and a replacement factory replica unit will be available. I think we all agree that too many of these center bearings are failing.
-John
Joined
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127 Posts
Have mine ordered thru DSS.
That resonance drone at certain speeds is more than likely your differential, whens the last time you changed the oil in it?
A Suggestion Only: I run the Royal Purple Max Gear 75w-90, because the Royal Purple comes with the friction modifier already mixed in the oil for the limited slip differential, takes about 1 1/2 bottles so you need 2 bottles, drain and fill plugs torque to 26ft.lbs..
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27 Posts
Not sure. I know its due. I did have it serviced while it was still under warranty since it was making the low speed tight turn moan. But it has been a while since then.
That was one of the items that I was supposed to change, but as you know the drive shaft replacement took longer than expected.
Next items for repair/upgrade
That was one of the items that I was supposed to change, but as you know the drive shaft replacement took longer than expected.
Next items for repair/upgrade
- Oil change soon
- Trans fluid & filter replacement
- Diff fluid replacement (most likely will do at the same time of the trans fluid)
- Radiator replacement (all aluminum with no plastic) and coolant drain and fill
- New exhaust system
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60 Posts
Curious what you're planning for the radiator replacement. After two failed OEM radiators, first one before my first oil change and the second 2 years later. Even though it was all covered under warranty and didn't cost me anything I gave up on the OEM with plastic tanks and decided to go out of pocket and got an all aluminum Mishimoto MMRAD-SRT-15. Everything was fine for about 3 years then the Mishimoto started leaking. I used the Lifetime Warranty and had a new radiator within a week, but I also lost all confidence in the brand so it sits in my garage still in the box never opened.
I ended up getting an all aluminum from Fluidyne.
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Well funny you ask. I am thinking of with the Mishimoto. Now I might look into other brands.
Reason I'm looking to replace my stock one is because from time to time I smell coolant. There was a time where I could see some coolant weeping out the fins near the plastic tank on the driver side. Haven't seen it recently but when I push the car and on really hot days I can smell it. I have the dealership pressure test it when my car was in the shop after an accident I had. Thankfully all body work. They couldn't get it to leak over night. So I'm thinking its a combination of heat and pressure that causes it to weep.
But thats the main reason I want replace it.
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60 Posts
Not sure if it carried over into 2016 models but in 2015 there was a TSB for bad crimp on radiators in the SRT392 and Hellcats. When I went for my first oil change at 6 months I mentioned that I would smell coolant here and there but there was no evidence of a leak and the coolant level never dropped. They tested the crimp on the radiator and sure enough I had one of the bad ones. They replaced it under warranty and all was fine for a couple years until that radiator started to leak from the crimp. That's when I decided to go all aluminum...
Here's a picture of the Mishimoto leak in and out of the car.
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Would not be surprised if they continued to use the bad radiators into 2016. Supposedly they were supposed to go to the redesign at least from what I remember of doing my research on this issue.
As for my issue, its not a huge problem right now. I still need to figure out what all aluminum brand I'm going to go with.
As for my issue, its not a huge problem right now. I still need to figure out what all aluminum brand I'm going to go with.
Across the various forums many are going the one piece driveshaft route, some just for peace of mind it seems by most comments, the rest buy for high performance racing period. Some that have experienced a one piece driveshaft vibration have usually bought their driveshafts from someone else, further upgrading their cars and not straight from the Driveshaft Shop. I personally have experienced no vibrations what so ever, if I did, I would tell you!
I am not affiliated with The Driveshaft Shop at all, I did buy my one piece 4" Aluminum driveshaft from them, and so far it has been everything they advertised it to be, I have no regrets getting it, it has been installed for over 9 months now and at times I have had no mercy on it at all, and it performs as expected, and beyond. My 0 ~ 60 time improved as did the other times as well, there is no concern regarding another center support bearing failure, because it does not have one.
The best to you all! Ry
I am not affiliated with The Driveshaft Shop at all, I did buy my one piece 4" Aluminum driveshaft from them, and so far it has been everything they advertised it to be, I have no regrets getting it, it has been installed for over 9 months now and at times I have had no mercy on it at all, and it performs as expected, and beyond. My 0 ~ 60 time improved as did the other times as well, there is no concern regarding another center support bearing failure, because it does not have one.
The best to you all! Ry
Finally found a 4" Aluminum driveshaft safety loop that fit the 2015+ Automatic transmission, the BMR Will Not Fit!
This is the link to the 5.7L 2015+ Automatic Transmission Driveshaft Safety Loop.
GForce Driveshaft Safety Loop Auto Fits Dodge Mopar Challenger/Charger 2015+ | eBay
Pictures installed:
![285966]()
![285967]()
This is the link for the 5.7L Manual Transmission 2015+ Driveshaft Safety Loop.
GForce Driveshaft Safety Loop Manual Fits Dodge Mopar Challenger/Charger 2015+ | eBay
This is the link to the 5.7L 2015+ Automatic Transmission Driveshaft Safety Loop.
GForce Driveshaft Safety Loop Auto Fits Dodge Mopar Challenger/Charger 2015+ | eBay
Pictures installed:
This is the link for the 5.7L Manual Transmission 2015+ Driveshaft Safety Loop.
GForce Driveshaft Safety Loop Manual Fits Dodge Mopar Challenger/Charger 2015+ | eBay
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UPDATE: Took a road trip over the extended weekend. It seems like there might be some balancing issues. It seems at different speeds that the vibrations that is felt in the car smooths out. I know there was some concern about the diff. service. I changed the fluid the day before I left on the trip.
I talked to the Drive Shaft Shop and they said unbolt it at the rear and rotate it 180-degrees and see if that helps. So I most likely will be trying that this weekend if time permits to see if that helps and retaking the drive shaft measurements to make sure things are still within spec. I will post an update to this.
I have had zero vibrations up to 110mph.
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