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Just installed a DSS Aluminum one piece driveshaft couple of weeks ago when I changed out my 3.73 Getrag LSD for a 3.06. Drove it approximately 400 miles back home. Got up to around 90mph no issues. That factory 2 piece was very weak and small compared to this 4” DSS Shaft. Dodge should have done a better job with that.
 

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@CaptScat345

The earlier releases of the 1 piece driveshaft used universal joints, and adapter plates, now they are using CV joints and balancing on a high speed machine, custom direct fit needing no adapter plates.

I researched it myself before I decided to spend over $1K on a one piece driveshaft, I had also investigated 2 piece racing solutions, as they had a much better center bearing support, but cost 3 times what I would even consider spending.

So I actually called the Driveshaft Shop and asked all my questions about earlier complaints of vibrations, and the guy I talked to told me they did have those problems earlier, but since going to CV (Constant Velocity) joints and balancing on a 1900 rpm high speed balancer, those past problems are gone.

I suggest you call the Driveshaft Shop yourself and talk to them, they know what they're talking about. Ry
After reading through this thread and checking my car, I just realized my driveshaft center bearing is shot. I have a 2015 RT+ with 77k. Go figure lol. I'm going with the DSS 1-piece aluminum one as well. Thank you sir!
 

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Discussion Starter · #123 ·
After reading through this thread and checking my car, I just realized my driveshaft center bearing is shot. I have a 2015 RT+ with 77k. Go figure lol. I'm going with the DSS 1-piece aluminum one as well. Thank you sir!

I'm glad you discovered it! Ry
 
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Nice info here. I have a Frostbite Blue 2021 Challenger R/T Plus and I'm working up a mods list lol. I eventually want to go with a procharger or supercharger. The first thing I want to do is swap to the 3.09 LSD, I don't know why the R/T's don't come with this. I figured while I have that out I'd swap the driveshaft and probably go with a 3200 stall converter. I think I read with the stock exhaust you'd have to make some adjustments for the 1-piece driveshaft, is that correct? Also what about for the safety loop?
 

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Discussion Starter · #127 ·
Hey everyone, I know I sound like a broken record regarding the one piece driveshaft but it has required re-learning how to launch the car off the line, because the way I used to do it no longer works as it results in serious tire spin. Don't get me wrong tire spin is cool if that is what you want to happen, but when you want to apply a learned way of putting power to the road and it no longer works, I have to wonder why.

The OEM 2 piece driveshaft has 3 CV joints with the middle supported by a carrier bearing, the extra CV joint and carrier bearing adds drive line resistance. In car motion forward they all have to tighten up to transfer power to the differential, and once you let off the gas to stop they are back to a looser state of operation. When the car is downshifting that pressure is in the opposite direction for all three CV joints, the same happens with the one piece driveshaft, but it just has 2 CV joints. When accelerating with the one piece driveshaft the torque power is transferred to the differential literally instantly with less resistance against the transmission and it is more likely going to break loose the rear end and spin the tires.

Many of you that were measuring your cars performance gains with your performance upgrades by using the cars built in timers like the 0 ~ 60 timer, will discover having to re-learn getting the car off the line and avoiding as much tire spin as possible as the response is pretty much instant. That's not a bad thing just letting you know it is going to happen.

The one piece has led to better testing times but it is not consistent across various road surfaces, as some road surfaces just flat light up the rear end, and others grab traction pretty quick. All in all it is a much more pleasing riding experience with the one piece, as it is just flat out a tighter response from pedal to action, IMO, this is what the car should have been like in the first place! Ry
 

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Discussion Starter · #128 ·
Here is the greatest negative to getting a one piece driveshaft, you will be going through rear tires faster, much faster! I had done a lot of hard but not pedal to the floor accelerations thinking the tires were not spinning, (because they were not squealing)! Did a lot of 0 ~ 60s testing times as well, trying to get off the line with as little tire spin as possible, but even when I thought they were not spinning, they were.

When I last changed my oil about a month ago and inspected everything underneath I saw half my tire rubber in the rear was gone. It is a known fact how hard you drive affects the rear tires but it is worse with the one piece driveshaft. Once enough torque is transferred to the rear and the tires break loose if the pedal is close to the floor they spin unmercifully, I kid you not.

Granted this is everything I wanted from the car in the first place and the true reasoning for all the upgrades done to it. The one piece driveshaft makes a serious difference and you literally have to relearn to drive the car as it changes the acceleration dynamics. But get ready to be going through some rear tires as the acceleration and Adrenalin rush is addictive!

Merry Christmas Everyone! :) Ry
 

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I really did not consider going to a one piece driveshaft to be a performance upgrade until I swapped out the OEM two piece driveshaft for a DSS (The Driveshaft Shop) one piece 4" Aluminum driveshaft, but after a few days of driving and every time I drive now, I discover something different in the performance realm.

The engine output to rear end response is pretty much instantaneous now, and the resistance of an extra CV joint and carrier bearing is gone, so there is less drive line resistance being applied to the operation of the drive line. The car does not respond like it did before the change, it is like a completely different car, you would have had to drive before and after the change to fully understand, but there is a noticeable difference.

There is more unrestricted power reaching the rear end, which translates to more tire spin, which of course adds to the dilemma of getting off the line with a good launch, but that consequence is most welcomed to me. But the fact that suddenly increasing throttle in 3rd gear and not to the floor, got tire spin put a smile across my face, that had never happened in the past.

When I went from an open differential to a limited slip, I got the smile from both tires laying down solid rubber. When I added the 93 octane tune written by Sean at Hemifever Tuning I got the smile as well. But I honestly was not expecting the smile going from the OEM 2 piece driveshaft assembly to a one piece Aluminum, but the smile is there!

What led to me getting the one piece driveshaft was the carrier bearing failure that led to replacing the OEM two piece assembly, but IMO, because of the cost did not warrant getting a single driveshaft of 1,000+HP rated on a 5.7L HEMI, that cost me a little over a thousand dollars. Unfortunately after the carrier bearing failure I could not get completely comfortable running the two piece OEM anymore, as the mental picture of the failure was permanently burned into my mind. So I made the decision to go to the one piece driveshaft, but did not need the Carbon Fiber on an engine probably at 400HP now, so a 1,000HP rated driveshaft is way overkill.

FYI: Any of you not aware of the carrier bearing failure here is the link to it: Replacing My Drive Shaft! WARNING!

Increased performance was a really good side effect when all I was really after was peace of mind, and increased confidence in the car! Only those that are actually running the single driveshaft in their Challengers, whether Aluminum or Carbon Fiber, can co-confirm any differences they have noticed, so I invite them to add their 2 cents in this thread.

Thanks and be Safe everyone! :) Ry
Did you shop around for the driveshaft and who did you end up buying from?
 

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Discussion Starter · #130 ·
Did you shop around for the driveshaft and who did you end up buying from?


Actually I did not shop around price wise, I researched The Driveshaft Shop because of their reputation, and seeing their products on high horsepower drag racers. My Challenger is for street use with occasionally romping down on it off the line, even though I don't have their HP levels, it is nice knowing the failure point is well above 1,000HP.

I did decide on the 4" Aluminum One Piece vs the Carbon Fiber for cost reasons. As far as the driveshaft quality and it's fitment I am blown away, with CV joints both ends it was a perfect fit, the balance is literally perfect no vibrations what so ever well over 100mph.

If you have been running off the line tests on your car like 0 ~ 60 run times etc., you'll have to relearn to drive getting off the line, spinning is much worse with the one piece shaft, "Tire Resistance Is Futile!" Sorry Couldn't resist that Borg plug. :)

If I had foreknown the confidence this driveshaft gives me, it would have been one of my first upgrades, the confidence of knowing I won't have another center support failure, is nice! :)

The Driveshaft Shop | Home Page - Driveshaft Shop
 

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I actually ordered my driveshaft from DSS and picked it up at their shop in North Carolina. Their customer service and attention to detail was outstanding. Could not have asked for better treatment. Had driven my “Orange Flame” over there, the guys in the shop came out to look it over, nice folks. Can highly recommend them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #132 ·
I actually ordered my driveshaft from DSS and picked it up at their shop in North Carolina. Their customer service and attention to detail was outstanding. Could not have asked for better treatment. Had driven my “Orange Flame” over there, the guys in the shop came out to look it over, nice folks. Can highly recommend them.
You already have it installed?
 

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My builder and I went with a JE Reel DS. Thought they were exclusive with Jeeps. Guess not
I am trying to decide which way to go. JE Reel is semi local to me and claims their drive shaft (which uses u joints) is superior to the DDS CV joint ds. It’s more money at $1400 but that is all I am certain of. I have always tried to steer clear of cv joints for performance applications. Especially drag racing applications. What is the chance anyone on here has experience with both units?
 

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Discussion Starter · #134 ·
I am trying to decide which way to go. JE Reel is semi local to me and claims their drive shaft (which uses u joints) is superior to the DDS CV joint ds. It’s more money at $1400 but that is all I am certain of. I have always tried to steer clear of cv joints for performance applications. Especially drag racing applications. What is the chance anyone on here has experience with both units?
CV joints are what is in the Dodge OEM driveshafts, they are smoother than the old U joints. The Driveshaft Shop started with U joints and had problems getting them balanced and IMO what they are using today is the best of the best. My driveshaft is smooth, with zero vibration, and it spins up the rear end something fierce, many drag race using CV joints.
 

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Discussion Starter · #136 ·
Thanks

“Best of the best” cuz you tried everything available or
No Sir, best of the best because after all their in house testing, it is what they settled on using!

Regarding your concerns have you heard of a DSS driveshaft CV joints failing under drag racing pressure, please post a link if you have?
 

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Just stories. Verbal. No links. Just cuz someone said it or it’s on the net does not mean it’s real : )

I have personal experience with both heavy duty u-joints and cv joints in high performance applications and have broken both in the past. Cv joints are traditionally heavier than std u joint and some of the ones I have used were spring loaded and tight as hell. Both those factors rob power. In the past I only went that way when I was forced to because of extreme angle. This application has very little angle
 

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Discussion Starter · #138 ·
This application has very little angle
True and the angle can make a serious difference, if you decide to go with the Driveshaft Shop, I don't think you will be disappointed. Ry
 
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Discussion Starter · #139 ·
New SOLO Performance Exhaust driveshaft clearance pictures.

Automotive tire Vehicle Product Automotive lighting Textile


Purple Bicycle part Rim Automotive exhaust Material property


Automotive design Material property Aviation Tints and shades Aerospace manufacturer


Plenty of clearance, no problems! Ry
 
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What speed have you tested it to?

Doesn't require hardly anything towards either end but the 1 piece shafts all Hula hoop some at high speed so the center is whatcha gotta watch. The factory lowered the passenger side center support perch after ‘17(?)

Automotive tire Aviation Aerospace manufacturer Tints and shades Hood

What is that line from?
 
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