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5.7L HEMI Upgrade to a One Piece Driveshaft.

47K views 158 replies 26 participants last post by  RyzRT 
#1 · (Edited)
I really did not consider going to a one piece driveshaft to be a performance upgrade until I swapped out the OEM two piece driveshaft for a DSS (The Driveshaft Shop) one piece 4" Aluminum driveshaft, but after a few days of driving and every time I drive now, I discover something different in the performance realm.

The engine output to rear end response is pretty much instantaneous now, and the resistance of an extra CV joint and carrier bearing is gone, so there is less drive line resistance being applied to the operation of the drive line. The car does not respond like it did before the change, it is like a completely different car, you would have had to drive before and after the change to fully understand, but there is a noticeable difference.

There is more unrestricted power reaching the rear end, which translates to more tire spin, which of course adds to the dilemma of getting off the line with a good launch, but that consequence is most welcomed to me. But the fact that suddenly increasing throttle in 3rd gear and not to the floor, got tire spin put a smile across my face, that had never happened in the past.

When I went from an open differential to a limited slip, I got the smile from both tires laying down solid rubber. When I added the 93 octane tune written by Sean at Hemifever Tuning I got the smile as well. But I honestly was not expecting the smile going from the OEM 2 piece driveshaft assembly to a one piece Aluminum, but the smile is there!

What led to me getting the one piece driveshaft was the carrier bearing failure that led to replacing the OEM two piece assembly, but IMO, because of the cost did not warrant getting a single driveshaft of 1,000+HP rated on a 5.7L HEMI, that cost me a little over a thousand dollars. Unfortunately after the carrier bearing failure I could not get completely comfortable running the two piece OEM anymore, as the mental picture of the failure was permanently burned into my mind.


Automotive tire Wood Gas Grass Motor vehicle


So I made the decision to go to the one piece driveshaft, but did not need the Carbon Fiber on an engine probably at 400HP now, so a 1,000HP rated driveshaft is way overkill. Increased performance was a really good side effect when all I was really after was peace of mind, and increased confidence in the car! Only those that are actually running the single driveshaft in their Challengers, whether Aluminum or Carbon Fiber, can co-confirm any differences they have noticed, so I invite them to add their 2 cents in this thread.

Thanks and be Safe everyone! :) Ry
 
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#4 ·
I really did not consider going to a one piece driveshaft to be a performance upgrade until I swapped out the OEM two piece driveshaft for a DSS (The Driveshaft Shop) one piece 4" Aluminum driveshaft, but after a few days of driving and every time I drive now, I discover something different in the performance realm.

The engine output to rear end response is pretty much instantaneous now, and the resistance of an extra CV joint and carrier bearing is gone, so there is less drive line resistance being applied to the operation of the drive line. The car does not respond like it did before the change, it is like a completely different car, you would have had to drive before and after the change to fully understand, but there is a noticeable difference.

There is more unrestricted power reaching the rear end, which translates to more tire spin, which of course adds to the dilemma of getting off the line with a good launch, but that consequence is most welcomed to me. But the fact that suddenly increasing throttle in 3rd gear and not to the floor, got tire spin put a smile across my face, that had never happened in the past.

When I went from an open differential to a limited slip, I got the smile from both tires laying down solid rubber. When I added the 93 octane tune written by Sean at Hemifever Tuning I got the smile as well. But I honestly was not expecting the smile going from the OEM 2 piece driveshaft assembly to a one piece Aluminum, but the smile is there!

What led to me getting the one piece driveshaft was the carrier bearing failure that led to replacing the OEM two piece assembly, but IMO, because of the cost did not warrant getting a single driveshaft of 1,000+HP rated on a 5.7L HEMI, that cost me a little over a thousand dollars. Unfortunately after the carrier bearing failure I could not get completely comfortable running the two piece OEM anymore, as the mental picture of the failure was permanently burned into my mind. So I made the decision to go to the one piece driveshaft, but did not need the Carbon Fiber on an engine probably at 400HP now, so a 1,000HP rated driveshaft is way overkill.

FYI: Any of you not aware of the carrier bearing failure here is the link to it: Replacing My Drive Shaft! WARNING!

Increased performance was a really good side effect when all I was really after was peace of mind, and increased confidence in the car! Only those that are actually running the single driveshaft in their Challengers, whether Aluminum or Carbon Fiber, can co-confirm any differences they have noticed, so I invite them to add their 2 cents in this thread.

Thanks and be Safe everyone! :) Ry
God bless you RyzRT for sharing this information with us. It's strange how after watching Motorweek install a driveshaft from The Driveshaft Shop last week I got into the concept of an aluminum single piece driveshaft upgrade on my 2009 R/T. My only concern was/is that they are rated for 1000+ hp engines, so, if it's working out for you, awesomeness! I may do it once I get $898 saved so that my mechanic son can get to it for my Thunder! Does it feel a litle twitchy off the line or when driving normally? I cut off my resonators, have a cai, flowmaster exhausts but still have the stock manifolds. I will forgo the headers and go with this mod.instead. Thanks again.
 
#5 ·
It is not twitchy at any speed especially off the line it is so smooth, and it is definitely less drive line resistance, that off the line tire spin is worse, so I am having to relearn doing my 0 ~ 60 runs. After I replaced the OEM with the failed carrier bearing support, I had 2 months earlier installed a new OEM, and was consistently running 4.7 second 0 ~ 60 times. I actually ran 3 in row launching off of concrete. After installing the DSS Aluminum Driveshaft I was getting 4.6 and 4.5 with off the line tire spin even though it was kinda hot outside. When I ran the 4.4 my best 0 ~ 60 it was 53 degrees outside so I'm looking forward to seeing those temperatures again to see if it will beat that time with this driveshaft. But man it is smooth, no vibrations, I keep saying it is like a completely different car, feel like a broken record! :)
 
#6 ·
Great info Ry, this is going to be my winter upgrade for sure now. I have 140K on my stock shaft, probably giving up a lot of performance at the track!
 
#7 ·
Swapped out the Pirelli P-Zero 275s for Pirelli P-Zero 295s in the rear, still spinning, there is no doubt this single piece driveshaft is less resistance to the drive line vs the 2 piece shaft. I guess it is also a testament to the 5.7s actual output torque there is more power to ground than many realize coming from the 5.7 especially with performance upgrades done to it. Now it is a relearning process of how much throttle to apply to get off the line with as little tire spin as possible but that is a small price to pay and not unexpected. She ran a 4.5 second 0 ~ 60 with tire spin at 80 degrees outside so it should do a lot better when the temperatures are around 50 outside, we'll see. :) Ry
 
#8 ·
I discovered the rear aluminum heat shield was touching the driveshaft even though I had pushed it up as far as possible in the driveshaft tunnel when I installed it and was confident it was clear. Unfortunately on the bottom side of the heat shield there is 2 aluminum patches that are adhesive applied to the heat shield covering the 2 mounting areas. Those patches specifically the one towards the front was down further than the shield and was touching the driveshaft. Just as steel can cut steel, aluminum can cut aluminum, and I noticed a ring around the driveshaft when I had the 295 tires installed that the paint was missing on the driveshaft. I borrowed a tool from the tire guy and pushed the aluminum patch further up and thought all was well.

At the same time of getting the 295s installed on the rear I noticed the fronts were close to the wear indicators on the tires and ordered new 245s for the front. When they arrived I went back and had them installed and did a re-inspection of the area of concern at the driveshaft rear heat shield, but this time the ring from the aluminum rubbing was more visible and you could actually feel it. So yesterday I put it on my ramps and removed the rear heat shield, which by the way is a job with the driveshaft bolted in place. Above the aluminum heat shield is a formed plate but it is not metal, it looks like some kind of ABS/Fiberglass compound so above the mufflers some type of heat shield is required.

I ordered this to put on the plate above the mufflers to protect the formed plate, the heat shield I've linked is adhesive backed and can be applied directly to the plate itself, to protect from the edge of the driveshaft tunnel all the way to the side. Any of you with the one piece driveshaft please check this out on your Challenger. Ry

Floor & Tunnel Shield II™ - 21" x 24"
 
#9 ·
Above the rear OEM heat shield this is the surface I am referring to, some type of hard formed panel.

265179


This is the drivers side with the thermal shield installed I did not allow it to go past the curve towards the driveshaft on both sides, the shields keep the heat coming from the mufflers from cooking the upper cover. You have to be very meticulous and plan every aspect of installing the thermal shield, get it cut and pre-bent as close as you can before you remove the backing from the adhesive surface. It is super sticky adhesive absolutely designed to stay where you put it, and set it up so you can only remove the film from a little over half of it, leaving the film to pull off a little at a time after the first section has made contact. If you let this stuff touch, it sticks instantly!, so get it lined up before you allow it to make solid contact. From there you press it into place pulling the film revealing more sticky as you go and it is Easy Peasy! IMO, what I covered with the shield is all that is needed because the Magnaflow glass packs have a glass fiber inner packing and a stainless steel outer packing around the perforated core. The purpose of the second outer stainless steel packing is to keep the outer shell from getting too hot, which works very well as I was able to lay my hand on the muffler after warming it up and driving it up on the ramps to work on it. I have to say Kudos to Magnaflow for that design, it works!

If the mufflers you have on your Challenger get very hot outside you may need to go further into the tunnel area, but you will need a larger piece of adhesive backed heat shield than what I linked in the above post.


265181


This is the driveshaft area that the OEM heat shield touched the shaft, I caught it before it did any real damage to the shaft, but it did clearly cut through the paint. If you look closely there is evidence of 2 other contacting points of the aluminum shield touching the shaft. But that is resolved completely there is nothing touching it anymore.

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Now obviously the perfect solution is to install the adhesive heat shield all the way across and up into the driveshaft tunnel, but you would have to do that with the driveshaft out, and since I used blue thread locker on the bolts I was not going to drop the driveshaft, but if you are installing a new, then that would be the best way to do it.

Do not trust that OEM heat shield with the 4" diameter Aluminum driveshaft, or the Carbon Fiber, the OEM heat shield was designed for the OEM 2" driveshaft, not 4".

I hope this information helps! Ry
 
#11 ·
What year is yours?
 
#16 ·
For sheer curiosity sake, what negative things have you heard? I, myself, have heard nothing negative about the one piece driveshaft.

I'd appreciate if you could share what you've heard so that others, including myself, could make an informed decision.

I plan on installing this on my 2016 come April/May of this upcoming year.
 
#19 ·
@CaptScat345

The earlier releases of the 1 piece driveshaft used universal joints, and adapter plates, now they are using CV joints and balancing on a high speed machine, custom direct fit needing no adapter plates.

I researched it myself before I decided to spend over $1K on a one piece driveshaft, I had also investigated 2 piece racing solutions, as they had a much better center bearing support, but cost 3 times what I would even consider spending.

So I actually called the Driveshaft Shop and asked all my questions about earlier complaints of vibrations, and the guy I talked to told me they did have those problems earlier, but since going to CV (Constant Velocity) joints and balancing on a 1900 rpm high speed balancer, those past problems are gone.

I suggest you call the Driveshaft Shop yourself and talk to them, they know what they're talking about. Ry
 
#20 ·
@CaptScat345

The earlier releases of the 1 piece driveshaft used universal joints, and adapter plates, now they are using CV joints and balancing on a high speed machine, custom direct fit needing no adapter plates.

I researched it myself before I decided to spend over $1K on a one piece driveshaft, I had also investigated 2 piece racing solutions, as they had a much better center bearing support, but cost 3 times what I would even consider spending.

So I actually called the Driveshaft Shop and asked all my questions about earlier complaints of vibrations, and the guy I talked to told me they did have those problems earlier, but since going to CV (Constant Velocity) joints and balancing on a 1900 rpm high speed balancer, those past problems are gone.

I suggest you call the Driveshaft Shop yourself and talk to them, they know what they're talking about. Ry
I absolutely will be, my friend. Thanks for the great info, as always!

Dave
 
#37 ·
Drove about 400 miles over the holiday, new driveshaft no problems at all, slid into some traffic way over the Interstate speed limit for about 20 minutes, not saying how fast but there were zero vibrations. Very Nice!

Belated Happy Thanksgiving to all of you! :) Ry
 
#42 ·
I really did not consider going to a one piece driveshaft to be a performance upgrade until I swapped out the OEM two piece driveshaft for a DSS (The Driveshaft Shop) one piece 4" Aluminum driveshaft, but after a few days of driving and every time I drive now, I discover something different in the performance realm.

The engine output to rear end response is pretty much instantaneous now, and the resistance of an extra CV joint and carrier bearing is gone, so there is less drive line resistance being applied to the operation of the drive line. The car does not respond like it did before the change, it is like a completely different car, you would have had to drive before and after the change to fully understand, but there is a noticeable difference.

There is more unrestricted power reaching the rear end, which translates to more tire spin, which of course adds to the dilemma of getting off the line with a good launch, but that consequence is most welcomed to me. But the fact that suddenly increasing throttle in 3rd gear and not to the floor, got tire spin put a smile across my face, that had never happened in the past.

When I went from an open differential to a limited slip, I got the smile from both tires laying down solid rubber. When I added the 93 octane tune written by Sean at Hemifever Tuning I got the smile as well. But I honestly was not expecting the smile going from the OEM 2 piece driveshaft assembly to a one piece Aluminum, but the smile is there!

What led to me getting the one piece driveshaft was the carrier bearing failure that led to replacing the OEM two piece assembly, but IMO, because of the cost did not warrant getting a single driveshaft of 1,000+HP rated on a 5.7L HEMI, that cost me a little over a thousand dollars. Unfortunately after the carrier bearing failure I could not get completely comfortable running the two piece OEM anymore, as the mental picture of the failure was permanently burned into my mind. So I made the decision to go to the one piece driveshaft, but did not need the Carbon Fiber on an engine probably at 400HP now, so a 1,000HP rated driveshaft is way overkill.

FYI: Any of you not aware of the carrier bearing failure here is the link to it: Replacing My Drive Shaft! WARNING!

Increased performance was a really good side effect when all I was really after was peace of mind, and increased confidence in the car! Only those that are actually running the single driveshaft in their Challengers, whether Aluminum or Carbon Fiber, can co-confirm any differences they have noticed, so I invite them to add their 2 cents in this thread.

Thanks and be Safe everyone! :) Ry
Hey Ry, I have been following this thread for a while and I have a question for you. So think about this one for a minute before you answer. Can you say whether or not you have noticed any performance degradation over time as your drive shaft has deteriorated?

Now the bigger question, It stands to reason there would be an improvement in performance with the lighter one piece driveshaft. I have been looking at carbon fiber and aluminum and all the reviews report that.

Then the fact that you have removed the carrier bearing so less friction no matter how minimal.

Do you think the profound power increase you feel is attributed to just the Drive shaft or was there a degradation you maybe didn't pick up on that makes it feel more then it would be if you replaced it before the two piece came apart?
 
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#44 ·
Hey Ry, I have been following this thread for a while and I have a question for you. So think about this one for a minute before you answer. Can you say whether or not you have noticed any performance degradation over time as your drive shaft has deteriorated?

Now the bigger question, It stands to reason there would be an improvement in performance with the lighter one piece driveshaft. I have been looking at carbon fiber and aluminum and all the reviews report that.

Then the fact that you have removed the carrier bearing so less friction no matter how minimal.

Do you think the profound power increase you feel is attributed to just the Drive shaft or was there a degradation you maybe didn't pick up on that makes it feel more then it would be if you replaced it before the two piece came apart?
As far as degradation of the OEM that failed yes there was noticeable performance degradation as it failed but the measurement looking back over it was inconsistent 0 ~ 60 times, which I considered at the times of the runs to be road surface and how I accelerated even on the very same road surface to launch off of.

With the brand new OEM that was installed I immediately was able to run consistent 4.7 second 0 ~ 60 times 3 in a row on concrete and 1 on smooth blacktop asphalt. That stayed consistent for quite a few 0 ~ 60s the day before swapping to the single Aluminum driveshaft, after the swap, I had to relearn launching the car as what I had been used to launching, now just busted loose spinning. So after practicing to discover just how much pedal to apply the consistent 4.7 times are now consistent 4.5 times and those were done as close to the same temperatures outside, the same road surfaces, and times of day.

There will be a consistent performance gain going from the worn OEM to a new OEM, but once the OEM carrier rubber support comes completely apart, you'll be forced to change it because you will definitely know you have a scary problem.

I have zero regrets going to the one piece aluminum driveshaft Johnnyreb, the only way to fully understand the differences is driving immediately before and after the swaps. Ry
 
#45 ·
That is a good way of describing the difference, by saying "opened up a new world of hotroddin", the owner will just have to do their on comparison as to the difference between the OEM 2 piece and the single piece driveshaft as there is a noticeable difference in consistency.
 
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#48 ·
@Johnnyreb

If you are keeping your OEM driveshaft, just make sure you check it regularly that the center rubber support is in good condition, you do have a safety factor as it is enclosed in a metal loop, that at least will keep it from dropping out from under the car. But if you ever hear a sound while driving like playing cards on bicycle spokes coming from the front right wheel, check it immediately!
 
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#51 ·
266482


Ran consecutive back to back 4.4 second 0 ~ 60s, I attribute that consistency to the one piece Aluminum Driveshaft, as it is less drive line resistance, not bad for a Challenger 5.7L HEMI that started out the best time I could get was 5.7 seconds. Earlier in the performance upgrading process I did hit 4.4 just one time with the old OEM driveshaft before the rubber completely tore loose, with the new replacement OEM I could only get a consistent 4.7. The one piece driveshaft shaft with it's less resistance, took quite a bit of foot learning to get off the line fast with as little spin as possible even with the 295s on the rear. But a consistent 4.4 second time on different launching surfaces for my Challenger was a Moonwalk day! :) Ry
 
#52 ·
Wow this one piece driveshaft is just getting better and better, at getting this upgraded 5.7s power to the road.
267375


I cannot get over how smooth the one piece driveshaft actually is. Honestly the amount of 5.7 and 6.4 owners that take their cars to the drag strip and are still running the 2 piece OEM driveshaft, are missing out on some performance numbers.
 
#54 ·
#55 ·
The years before 2015 are different some come with adapter plates and the manual is different from the automatic but that's the aluminum shaft for the manual 5.7L R/T, if the years are correct for your Challenger that is it. Give them a call and talk to them about it.
 
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#57 · (Edited)
I'm glad to hear you are happy with your new driveshaft, but you need to be aware of the potential dangers involved. When an aluminum shaft explodes, it sends shards of debris in every direction. These shards can travel through the bottom of your vehicle; which could result in a fatality. If you're going to stick with a 1 piece shaft, go with carbon fiber. 100% safe - extremely effective.
 
#65 · (Edited)
NOTE INFORMATION: This is for 2015 and newer Challenger 1 piece 4" Aluminum Driveshaft, In my bolt packages from the DSS there were some extra stuff, a C ring, a C clip, and 2 hose band clamps, disregard those they are extra stuff that came in the packages, all you need are the bolts and the 2 bolt connect washers. The bolts are 8mm HEX Key (AKA Allen Head), and the torque value is 57 ft.lbs.

Picture Below, New 4" Aluminum Driveshaft.
267597

Picture Below New Compared to Failed Stock OEM.
267598

Picture Below Transmission End of Driveshaft install it into the transmission output shaft first.

267599

Picture below is where that CV Gap measurement should be taken on the clear surface, not the washers or bolts.
267601

Picture below is measuring gap distance, mine was 3 5/8".
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Regarding the 3 pictures above you'll see I replaced the stock heat shielding which was about a 1/2" layer of some type of fiberglass matting, which on my 2015 was literally falling out from under the car, I cut it just past the transmission output shaft removed the rear of it and used design engineering adhesive backed heat shield which is the black that you see. I used the front of the self adhesive heat shield to actually hold up the old matting that was falling down.
Picture below is the rear of the differential in the differential mounting hub the Indents on the hub need to be at 6 and 12 oclock, if not you will not get it to go in without damaging the CV joints, there is just enough clearance to go in if the indents are properly aligned, at 6 and 12.

267602

Picture below is the driveshaft in place showing the clearance of the Center Carrier Bearing support mounts.

267603

The picture above clearly shows the driveshaft connection from transmission to differential is offset or else the driveshaft would be centered between those mounting points. Also the rear heat shield should be removed and replaced with self adhesive heat shield material, mine was touching the driveshaft and I had to pull it out after the fact which was extremely difficult to do. Take care of that before you mount the driveshaft.
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267605
 
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#67 ·
The OEM 2 piece driveshaft has 3 CV joints there is a CV joint at the carrier support bearing , so yes it swivels at 3 points.
 
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#69 ·
@68Coronet, Aluminum or Carbon Fiber is your choice, just be careful where you get it from.
Note: If your year Challenger requires adapter plates, the driveshaft should be balanced with those plates on the driveshaft at the time of balancing and shipped to you exactly as it was balanced. Which means if you have to take the plate off to mount it, every bolt is to go back exactly where it was when you got the driveshaft in your possession.
 
#78 ·
Your uncle Bob, is a wise man!
I'd been thinking about the differential brace myself, but it probably is way overkill for my horsepower level. Unfortunately, I thought the same thing with my OEM driveshaft, seeing as how it was also in the 392 Scat Pack level of power handling. And it failed, so maybe I'd better give the differential brace another look.
 
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