Discussion in 'Challenger Performance Mods - Engine - 6.1L HEMI' started by chizzle1, Oct 12, 2017.
Good deal! Sometimes they can be a royal PITA to get out!
Need a little help, the 6.1 water pump does not have a place to install the coolant temp sensor (see pic). Where is the coolant temp sensor located on the 6.1?
As far as I know the 2009 & 2010 5.7 and 6.1 have the ECT sensor located on top of the motor near the throttle body. I replaced mine a while back but can't find the thread or picture I posted. The picture you posted looks like it though.
On earlier engines I think it was located behind the AC compressor directly into the block towards the front of the block in a water jacket.
I think you need to check the year of your block and water pump. Maybe you have an older version of the water pump that doesn't have the boss to install the ECT sensor. If your block doesn't have the connection I'm out of ideas.
Do you know what year the block is?
I just did some digging. Looked at actual pictures of the 5.7 and 6.1 waterpumps for a 2010. They all show the ECT sensor on the waterpump for the 5.7 but not for the 6.1. It's my guess that that on the 6.1 the ECT sensor is located on the driver side of the block in the area where it would be under the AC compressor after the compressor is installed.
Thanks for all the replies, my block turns out to be a 2007 year model and the coolant temp sensor is in the location behind the water pump in the block. Just above where the solenoid for the VVT is located on the 5.7 block.
So far I have installed the plugs for the oil galley where the MDS solenoids would go, loaded the lifters and retainers, installed the timing cover, and installed the crank pulley. I won't be able to completely torque the crank to specification until I have the flywheel mounted and can secure the crank.
I am leaving the oil pan slightly loose so I can put a straight edge on it once I take it off the engine stand to ensure proper rear alignment with the block/ bell housing.
I'll post some pics later today when i get a chance to work on it.
Got a few hours to work on the car today.
The short block is assembled and installed, right now it's tilted down resting on the front sway bar.
The alignment tool made installation of the dual clutch setup a breeze.
I had to pull the oil pan and clearance the windage tray, the #7 & #8 rod bolts were rubbing slightly.
I had to use a small amount of RTV super black on the timing cover due to some imperfections in the casting.
I was able to use a large end wrench to secure the balancer and torque it down.
More to follow...
Your block looks amazing!
Thanks It's almost a perfect match for the red on the stripes and shaker.
If it warms up enough I'm going to try and get the transmission in after work today, I don't like laying on 40* concrete.
where did you get your driveshaft loop & how is it mounted?
I need to get one until i can afford one of these:
You could use an adapter that goes between the fuel rail and the line into the fuel rail to mount the pressure sensor, and then run wires from the sensor to your gauge in the cockpit.
Nitrous Express makes them with either 5/16" quick fitting or 3/8". I think the fuel rails have the 3/8" quick connect where the fuel line plugs into the fuel rail. But I'm not sure so it'll be you that ef's up if you trust me LOL
The adapters have a standard 1/8"NPT port to accept a pressure transducer.
P/N 16190 for 5/16" adapter
P/N 16185 for 3/8" adapter
Summit racing actually posts the best description of the parts.
Another $50 towards the build.............
Update: the flu has hit my house and the wife and youngest daughter are down, so I'll be putting the car build on hold while taking care of them.
The machine shop was able to supply me with a few block to head alignment dowels and a transmission jack, so I should be able to get the transmission mounted up sometime this weekend.
Break in oil arrived, 8 quarts of Lucas 30 high zinc (one extra quart for the initial filter change).
The break in procedure I was advised was
replace the oil filter after 3-4 heat cycles
after 250-300 miles drain the break in oil and refill with non-synthetic 10w-40 and replace filter
at 500 miles change oil to 10w-40 full synthetic and replace filter.
I agree, the car can wait, it is better to take care of the family first.Good luck and a speedy recovery to you family.
I managed to get a few hours to work on the car today while my family was resting.
Transmission jacks are awesome, I am never doing a trans swap without one again - the trans went in easily.
As of now the transmission, shifter, driveshaft, starter, and knock sensors are installed / bolted in.
I topped off the brake/clutch reservoir with DOT4 to prevent a low fluid condition when the autobleed feature of the clutch slave cylinder occurs.
I insulated and zip tied the phaser harness onto the driver side knock sensor, it's no longer needed and not connected.
Next up will be the heads secured by ARP bolts.
I ordered a Aeroforce Interceptor and Autometer dual A pillar guage pod...I couldn't find a place I like on the dash and the sunglasses mount is not in my line of sight.
The interceptor will let me monitor the oil temp, oil pressure, KR, and fuel pressure (along with a host of others) and the glowshift vac / boost gauge will serve as a driving aid for now (until the blower comes later).
More to follow...
That is a good chunk of work you did there. Don't give up ! You will so happy when it is all done. Is the family getting better ?
Thanks. Both the kids are on the mend, wife and I are enduring the worst part of the process now.
Didn't get a lot done this weekend, still feeling like shit from this influenza crap.
I installed the shorties on the heads with new gaskets, a liberal amount of anti-seize, and stage8 locking hardware torqued to 18 ft/lbs.
I took over the kitchen table since it was ~40* in the garage.
Used a razor blade to clean off the old gasket material from the shorties.
I am hoping to set the heads on the block after work today and get the exhaust and heat shields re-hung tomorrow.
update: got the heads seated on the block and hand tightened with the lube per ARP's instructions.
I am going to torque them down after work this evening, took a while to get the hardware lubed and installed.
Currently looking for NGK Iridium plugs, part number 2315 (one heat range cooler than stock) and debating on switching from dex-cool to the waterless coolant.
The Aeroforce Interceptor gauge arrived, but I haven't had a chance to play with it.
The a-pillar gauge pod should arrive later today.
Debating on doing the break in with the stock injectors, then upping to the 60# ones.
Nice! Every step takes you closer man!
Amazon has the plugs you need - $65 for an 8-pack
The beast is coming along nicely. I can see a V8 rumbling very soon.
nice. would you mind posting the link?
I have a cooler range plug installed in there now, I may try them out and see how it goes.
I'll get the link and e-mail it to ya.
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