[DieselDog]

I’ve recently ordered a ‘23 r/t ScatPack and knowing almost nothing about my new car, I’ve been reading up on my future car here on the forum.
After tapping into the vast knowledge base here, I’ve read a lot about the potential of our vehicles being rather easily stolen.
Seems Dodge has come up with 3 security upgrades that can be obtained at the dealership:
The RF hub new key lockout
The pin activated low power mode, and
The intrusion sensor module
I’d appreciate the input of forum members here:
What if I opted to get the above listed upgrades with out the new key lockout, and practiced putting the fob in a faraday bag before leaving my car and manually locked the doors from the inside?
Plus taking other precautions such as was listed by another member on this forum, HemiMetal and others, do members think this would be adequate?
Another thing I was thinking but not seeing on the forum, is some type of an add-on device that would alert you in real-time that your vehicle’s alarm is activated. That would give you at least a heads-up that something was going on with your car and give you an opportunity to go and check on it.
does such a device exist?
Thanks, Mike.

 

[GNBRETT]

Home - LoJack They are nationwide now.

Amazon.com Has 3-4 month rechageable battery and its a magnet so no wires to install and easy to hide I got one on all my vehicles just have to remember to charge it up but this is better than Lojack imo cause u can find ur own shit without having to enter it as a Stolen Car cause thats how it will be recovered and stamped for life as a "Stolen Recovery".

Amazon.com Or this its really small and easy to hide. Has 2 year supscription and only $3 a month adter it expires.

DroneMobile | Smartphone Remote Start, Security, and GPS Tracking Drone will alert you plus u can start ur car from anywhere as its GPS.

IGLA OBD BLOCK This will block anyone from making a coded key and works really well. The only complaint ppl have is the 10 seconds it takes to punch in the code to start the car. That gets annoying for some that are in and out of their car all day long but highly effective and it has built in GPS so this is another option but its not cheap.

I would put in a kill switch before I did ANY of those tho. Cheap, easy and highly effective. Amazon.com

 

[PRPHAZE]

I have a shock sensor added into factory alarm. check them out at shocksensor.com
Easy to install.

 

[MJS73]

You're going to need to do layers of security because one system isn't going to cut it. BTW, the PIN low power mode was discontinued very shortly after it was introduced. Parking in a garage (maybe install camera in the garage), vehcile parked behind it in the driveway, a good alarm with intrusion and glass breakage sensors and the RF Hub update would be a good start. If you're using Faraday devices remember that they do wear out and you should test them frequently.

 

[Long Island SRT]

23's should have the shock sensor - My 22 does.

As far as the faraday pouch/box - that is not directly related to the RF hub lockout.
It will prevent someone from cloning your key(s) and entering the car by tricking it into thinking their device is your key.

The RF hub lockout prevents someone from making a new key (including you). That stops anyone from plugging into your cars computer (after they break in) and creating a new key thru the OBD or Star Port.

Even if they get passed all that - a Kill switch will still stop them - so Highly Recommended. There is a plug and play that doesn't hack into your wires.

Also - cover the neutral pull cable. May also slow someone from rolling your car away.

As you see - multiple ways to slow a thief down are optimal. Make em move on to something else.

 

[JTR18SHAKER]

I just received a letter from my insurance company and they will pay for the Tag (tracking) Anti-Theft system to be installed on my Grand Cherokee by Speedy Glass, they say a $400 value, with a 5 year subscription. Not sure if you have this system in the US? They do not use cellular signals.

 

[guzzler_of_gas]

OK stupid question here, but I assume that the neutral pull cable does not apply to the MT6 ?

I'm guessing its not even there ?

 

[Dodgeguy]

OK stupid question here, but I assume that the neutral pull cable does not apply to the MT6 ?

I'm guessing its not even there ?

That would be correct.

 

[moparX2]

I have multiple Security Elements for my 2 Challengers... When all else fails I rely on the JUDGE (.45 cal., or Slugs). Maybe, just maybe I'll allow the THIEF to let me know which he wants me to UNLEASE. LOL

 

[HemiMetal]

When all else fells I rely on the JUDGE.

Harsh, judgmental language, Tony?

 

[HemiMetal]

OK stupid question here, but I assume that the neutral pull cable does not apply to the MT6 ?

I'm guessing its not even there ?

No need for it, for two good reasons

1. There's no Parking gear. You can always shift an M6 into neutral, even without depressing the clutch.
2. It requires a rapidly declining driving skill set fast disappearing with younger drivers!

 

[guzzler_of_gas]

LOL @ "I'm looking at three pedals here..."

 

[DieselDog]

23's should have the shock sensor - My 22 does.

As far as the faraday pouch/box - that is not directly related to the RF hub lockout.
It will prevent someone from cloning your key(s) and entering the car by tricking it into thinking their device is your key.

The RF hub lockout prevents someone from making a new key (including you). That stops anyone from plugging into your cars computer (after they break in) and creating a new key thru the OBD or Star Port.

Even if they get passed all that - a Kill switch will still stop them - so Highly Recommended. There is a plug and play that doesn't hack into your wires.

Also - cover the neutral pull cable. May also slow someone from rolling your car away.

As you see - multiple ways to slow a thief down are optimal. Make em move on to something else.

Roger on the RF hub lockout, I wasn’t intending to get that even though I’ve never lost a car key, there’s always a first time for everything.
On the plug and play kill switch, can you give me the name of it so I can look it up?
thanks.

23's should have the shock sensor - My 22 does.

As far as the faraday pouch/box - that is not directly related to the RF hub lockout.
It will prevent someone from cloning your key(s) and entering the car by tricking it into thinking their device is your key.

The RF hub lockout prevents someone from making a new key (including you). That stops anyone from plugging into your cars computer (after they break in) and creating a new key thru the OBD or Star Port.

Even if they get passed all that - a Kill switch will still stop them - so Highly Recommended. There is a plug and play that doesn't hack into your wires.

Also - cover the neutral pull cable. May also slow someone from rolling your car away.

As you see - multiple ways to slow a thief down are optimal. Make em move on to something else.

 

[Long Island SRT]

https://carcatcreations.com/

I have it installed so let me know if you have any questions.

 

[HemiMetal]

On the plug and play kill switch, can you give me the name of it so I can look it up?

If you're talking about the kill switch in the YouTube, this is what the YouTuber posted

TWTADE 10Pcs Rocker Switch ON/Off SPST 2Pin Latching Toggle Switch Snap Round with Pre-Wired 6A/250V 10A/125V AC for Boat,Car etc.KCD1-X-Y: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

TWTADE 10Pcs Rocker Switch ON/Off SPST 2Pin Latching Toggle Switch Snap Round with Pre-Wired 6A/250V 10A/125V AC for Boat,Car etc.KCD1-X-Y: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

 

[MJS73]

Lot of people talking about kill switches and they're not a terrible idea but you need to be careful not to install it on the ignition circuit. The electronics in a car still run and do things (like data logging and the like) well after a car is turned off, so activating a kill switch on the ignition circuit is going to disrupt that activity and could cause problems with the way the car runs and performs. If you're going to install a kill switch it should be on the fuel pump circuit.

 

[James72]

Lot of people talking about kill switches and they're not a terrible idea but you need to be careful not to install it on the ignition circuit. The electronics in a car still run and do things (like data logging and the like) well after a car is turned off, so activating a kill switch on the ignition circuit is going to disrupt that activity and could cause problems with the way the car runs and performs. If you're going to install a kill switch it should be on the fuel pump circuit.

Just a question- what about a battery kill switch?

 

[Long Island SRT]

Lot of people talking about kill switches and they're not a terrible idea but you need to be careful not to install it on the ignition circuit. The electronics in a car still run and do things (like data logging and the like) well after a car is turned off, so activating a kill switch on the ignition circuit is going to disrupt that activity and could cause problems with the way the car runs and performs. If you're going to install a kill switch it should be on the fuel pump circuit.

Good info.
The https://carcatcreations.com/ interrupts the push button starter on/off dash button. Not an expert but I don't think the ignition runs thru it - only because I can throw the kill switch while the car is running and nothing happens. Although I can't shut the car off then so its got to be more than just the starter. So pushing that button to shut off the car obviously sends some signal to the car to turn off.

 

[Long Island SRT]

Just a question- what about a battery kill switch?

Of course that would work but I don't think you want to fully disconnect the battery every time you shut your car off. To name a few - Your alarm would not work, doors would have to be manually locked and unlocked - Trunk would not open - Nevermind all the other stored data that will have to re-load. The Uconnect is SLOWWWW....

 

[MJS73]

Of course that would work but I don't think you want to fully disconnect the battery every time you shut your car off. To name a few - Your alarm would not work, doors would have to be manually locked and unlocked - Trunk would not open - Nevermind all the other stored data that will have to re-load. The Uconnect is SLOWWWW....

Plus the shutdown routines I described above.