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Discussion Starter #1
So My Shaker R/T plus 2016 has an alignment issue with the camber. The garage said it probably came from the factory that way or developed when the springs settled and it is wearing the inside of the tires out.
My car has 18,000 miles on it. The factory warranty is down to the power train. They say the only way to fix it is adjustable control arms or wish bones as I have always called them and bushings in the back.
Has anyone else had this problem and gotten Chrysler to stand good for the fix?
I have read on this and other forums it is quit common but everyone seems to pay the $1000 or so themselves. My thinking is if it is that common and a known production problem they should be responsible for it. What do you think Friends?
 

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So My Shaker R/T plus 2016 has an alignment issue with the camber. The garage said it probably came from the factory that way or developed when the springs settled and it is wearing the inside of the tires out.
My car has 18,000 miles on it. The factory warranty is down to the power train. They say the only way to fix it is adjustable control arms or wish bones as I have always called them and bushings in the back.
Has anyone else had this problem and gotten Chrysler to stand good for the fix?
I have read on this and other forums it is quit common but everyone seems to pay the $1000 or so themselves. My thinking is if it is that common and a known production problem they should be responsible for it. What do you think Friends?
When you say garage do you mean dealer or independent gararge.
 

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Factory alignment specs. are between a given range but does not mean that if it is between the specs. that you will get the optimum tire wear. The Challenger is actually a Mercedes setup for high speed driving so it has a lot of negative camber and positive caster to allow high speed cornering and a stable feel at high speeds.
 

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Tie rod ends were an issue back in 08/09 but I have not heard of anything other than that.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The dealership told me that it was outside of spec by 3* on the driver side and 1.5* on the right side and back right. My national extended covered the left front rotor and put two new tires on the front. I like them already, but they won't cover alignment and the service tech and manager both said they don't believe Mopar will either as the warranty is up but they also said it either came from the factory that way or developed from the springs settleing as there is no damage they can see to cause it to shift in the cradle. I had no Idea you couldn't adjust the alignment. I am going to call mopar tomorrow
 

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Food for thought:

Were you allowed to go back and see your car on the alignment rack, or were you just handed a piece of paper?

The reason for the question is not all dealerships are really skilled in these things, we have a CDJR dealership locally close to us, I would not let them touch my push lawn mower!

Is there another dealership close you could get a 2nd opinion to confirm, or take it to an alignment specialists shop.

When I got the staggered rims I was all over the road trying to get a good 0 ~ 60 run, horrible rear end drift, the dealership I usually go to was too far so I took it to Firestone, my front right toe was out and the thrust angle was out in the rear. I was allowed to go back to the alignment machine and we went over everything before they actually touched adjusting anything. After the alignment it now launches straight and I feel much better about going to the larger tires.

Not every Firestone may be as good as the one we have locally, but they are 100 times better than our local CDJR dealership is.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes, the reason I went to the dealership about it was that I noticed it diving of the center hump a little.
I knew the dealership wouldn't cover a standard alignment so I took it to Les Schwab to get it aligned and they are the ones that brought it to my attention with an estimate of $2250 but that included 4 new tires which it didn't need so I took it to the dealership to see if Warranty would cover any of it. National covered a rotor and 2 new tires. But still needs the control arms ect.
The alignment numbers they have are almost identical to Les Schwab as well as the fix. The dealership being a couple hundred more.
The dealership here in LaGrande has a pretty good shop, a lot of them are car guys. And they seem to shot pretty square with me.
So I will call Mopar and see what they say, but I don't really hold out much hope from what I've read.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
So much for the good words about my local dealer.It seems that after I called mopar about my alignment problems, they claim that the tech working on my car told them that he saw it as just normal wear and tear.
He claims he said it could have came from the factory that way or that damage to the car could have caused it although non was evident or it could be just wear and tear and compared it to putting shims in your Ford pickup when you have it aligned. But these shims cost $1000 or the dealers estimate $2600 to fix it.
In other words he thru me under the bus to save the corp. money and look good, in my opinion. And they won't guarantee it because it has to be done with after market parts.
So in case your wondering, if your car goes so far out of alignment that with out rebuilding the control arms ect it can't be re-aligned in the first 8,000 miles or so, it's because you drove it too hard and its just normal wear and tear. I won't tell you what Les Shwab said, but they can fix it for $846 and warranty the work and parts.
Still love my Challenger but I will be looking for another place to get my work done.
 

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So My Shaker R/T plus 2016 has an alignment issue with the camber. The garage said it probably came from the factory that way or developed when the springs settled and it is wearing the inside of the tires out.
My car has 18,000 miles on it. The factory warranty is down to the power train. They say the only way to fix it is adjustable control arms or wish bones as I have always called them and bushings in the back.
Has anyone else had this problem and gotten Chrysler to stand good for the fix?
I have read on this and other forums it is quit common but everyone seems to pay the $1000 or so themselves. My thinking is if it is that common and a known production problem they should be responsible for it. What do you think Friends?
No experience with Dodge cars but with my Porsche cars while the rear wheels had plenty of negative camber what ate the inside edges of the rear tires was not camber but incorrect toe. In one case after an "alignment" the new rear tires were gone in 8K miles. After a proper alignment the replacement tires -- same as were on the car for 8K miles -- went 20K miles. And tire wear across the tread face was very even.

What is the ride height? If the springs have settled the ride height could be way off/low.

While springs can settle a bit I've never had a car manifest any real serious alignment issues from this. Far and away the biggest impact on alignment is just brushing a curb with a rear tire or in one case I pulled too far in and ran both front tires into a low curb. Just bumped the curb straight on at less than a walking pace but it was enough to affect the alignment and cause tire howl. Tire wear clearly showed signs of feathering and scrubbing. An alignment followed by a hundred or so miles to give the tires to adapt to the new correct alignment had the tire howl gone.

If there is not enough adjustment to bring the alignment into spec you will probably have to resort to using either Dodge special suspension or aftermarket special suspension components/hardware to allow for more adjustment range.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Sure I can understand that cars get out of alignment, but I don't understand that it can't be re-aligned without basically replacing the front end components, on a car that only had 16,000 miles on it.
Your right the front end guy that is actually fixing it said it had to be that way for at least 8 to 10,000 miles to wear the tires with the problems he saw. Meaning it was that way at 8,000 miles.
He also agreed with you on the spring issue, basically saying it won't cause that unless you completely destroy the spring some way.
Dodge doesn't make anything to fix the issue except bolts, but it is too far out to bring it back in with their bolts so I have to use after market parts and so they won't warranty the parts or labor because it's not Mopar.
But the're butt hurt because I won't let them do the work for $2,600 and no warranty. but Les Shwab can fix it for $900 and give me a warranty. Go figure.
 

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So much for the good words about my local dealer.It seems that after I called mopar about my alignment problems, they claim that the tech working on my car told them that he saw it as just normal wear and tear.
He claims he said it could have came from the factory that way or that damage to the car could have caused it although non was evident or it could be just wear and tear and compared it to putting shims in your Ford pickup when you have it aligned. But these shims cost $1000 or the dealers estimate $2600 to fix it.
In other words he thru me under the bus to save the corp. money and look good, in my opinion. And they won't guarantee it because it has to be done with after market parts.
So in case your wondering, if your car goes so far out of alignment that with out rebuilding the control arms ect it can't be re-aligned in the first 8,000 miles or so, it's because you drove it too hard and its just normal wear and tear. I won't tell you what Les Shwab said, but they can fix it for $846 and warranty the work and parts.
Still love my Challenger but I will be looking for another place to get my work done.
That Sucks!
 
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Yep, I was surprised to find you can't adjust anything except toe on these cars. When I lowered my car I had to have offset bushings installed in the rear to get correct camber. However, no adjust for future use once they're installed. Hindsight says I should have used adjustable control arms instead. Install costs would be a wash and you can adjust things in the future.

I've got more camber in the front than I like but it's just within spec but you can see if you look. The bolts would get me close to midrange but again, not really a lot of adjust for the future. Pretty sure I'll get new control arms for the front before the next tire change. It's really a pity you can't adjust things simply from the start,
 

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The stock front top A arm looks like it is cast iron, it is extremely thin I just hope that's not cast iron?

Cast iron does not bend but it will break.
 
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Discussion Starter #14
Yeh, RyzRT is right it sucks. But it can be fixed. And some of my upgrades cost more then this.
I went down to the dealership and let them know what I thought of them. And I probably should have seen it coming. They all act like they're scared to spit.
That being said, I think it's time to cover my loses and move on, it is, what it is. Still love my challenger.
The biggest problem is in Eastern Oregon it's at least 100 miles to a dealership I think I can trust, and after this guy threw me under the bus, who knows.
 

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Yeh, RyzRT is right it sucks. But it can be fixed. And some of my upgrades cost more then this.
I went down to the dealership and let them know what I thought of them. And I probably should have seen it coming. They all act like they're scared to spit.
That being said, I think it's time to cover my loses and move on, it is, what it is. Still love my challenger.
The biggest problem is in Eastern Oregon it's at least 100 miles to a dealership I think I can trust, and after this guy threw me under the bus, who knows.
Whats the possibility of changing out the arms and then taking it to have it aligned, I haven't really researched into that yet, but it's a concern to me, whether it can be done shade tree, IDK?
 
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Whats the possibility of changing out the arms and then taking it to have it aligned, I haven't really researched into that yet, but it's a concern to me, whether it can be done shade tree, IDK?
I watched a couple YouTube vids. The fronts are pretty easy it seems. Pretty straightforward R&R. The rears are more complicated if you're looking at those.
 

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For now my rears are within Mopars Alignment Specs, but further wearing back there, IDK?

Mopars specs are a little out IMO, but that's supposed to be purposeful for better cornering?

At least that's what I was told.
 
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Sure I can understand that cars get out of alignment, but I don't understand that it can't be re-aligned without basically replacing the front end components, on a car that only had 16,000 miles on it.
Your right the front end guy that is actually fixing it said it had to be that way for at least 8 to 10,000 miles to wear the tires with the problems he saw. Meaning it was that way at 8,000 miles.
He also agreed with you on the spring issue, basically saying it won't cause that unless you completely destroy the spring some way.
Dodge doesn't make anything to fix the issue except bolts, but it is too far out to bring it back in with their bolts so I have to use after market parts and so they won't warranty the parts or labor because it's not Mopar.
But the're butt hurt because I won't let them do the work for $2,600 and no warranty. but Les Shwab can fix it for $900 and give me a warranty. Go figure.
"..but I don't understand that it can't be re-aligned without basically replacing the front end components, on a car that only had 16,000 miles on it."

Cost issue I guess. My first car had nothing but toe adjustment. When I wanted to adjust the camber I had to buy eccentric bushings for the front control arms. While I didn't have to do anything with the caster to adjust that would have required possibly loosening the strut nuts and moving the strut forwards or backwards to adjust caster. Or buying caster/camber plates if more adjustment range was required.

Really don't recall any alignment issues with any cars since. My Porsche cars had oodles of adjustment but it didn't take much to bring the car into proper alignment.

Hopefully with my Hellcat and JCW I won't have to deal with any alignment issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
I could probably replace the control arms as you are all right it's a pretty easy fix.
But a lift would be a real asset, as after you replace them you have to put them under full load to torque them, so you would need to stack blocks to set it down on and then torque the nuts and then take the tires on and off each time you adjust the bolts.
As with the headers and pipes going on in two days :D I don't get off the floor as good as I used too. So I farm out a lot of things I used to do myself.
Besides it is warrantied this way, so if it ain't right, Les Shwab will redo it.
They said when they re-align it, it will bring the rear in close enough to adjust it also. So it should all be good.
A lot of the threads I've seen on other forums have had to replace them after they lowered their cars and other suspension work.
The rears you can go two ways, either adjustable bushings, pretty inexpensive and look pretty easy with a cheap tool they sell to press them in and out.
Or you can replace the arms with adjustables which is easy but expensive as well.
 

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My alignment was off. Took it to Firestone and presto!
Steering wheel straight and the car tracks straight without driver input, and that was Nov 2017
 
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