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Yes, the reason I went to the dealership about it was that I noticed it diving of the center hump a little.
I knew the dealership wouldn't cover a standard alignment so I took it to Les Schwab to get it aligned and they are the ones that brought it to my attention with an estimate of $2250 but that included 4 new tires which it didn't need so I took it to the dealership to see if Warranty would cover any of it. National covered a rotor and 2 new tires. But still needs the control arms ect.
The alignment numbers they have are almost identical to Les Schwab as well as the fix. The dealership being a couple hundred more.
The dealership here in LaGrande has a pretty good shop, a lot of them are car guys. And they seem to shot pretty square with me.
So I will call Mopar and see what they say, but I don't really hold out much hope from what I've read.
Hi Johnnyreb,
We understand the frustration you've been having! If you would like to be connected to a Case Specialist to help you with your dealer, please private message us!
Laura
Dodge Social Care Specialist
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Hi Johnnyreb,
We understand the frustration you've been having! If you would like to be connected to a Case Specialist to help you with your dealer, please private message us!
Laura
Dodge Social Care Specialist
I started a conversation with you and an email you can contact me at in conversations. I thank you for your offer of help and welcome your assistance.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Ok, Les Schwab replaced my control arms yesterday and the car drives a lot better. I had a hard time getting the tech to let me go. He wanted to take another test drive:):). I think he spent all most as much time shining it as he did aligning it. I do appreciate his care, all kidding aside. I wouldn't be surprised if he goes down and buys one. LOL. All mods complete for now, front end aligned. I'm gonna go drive it before I have to put it away for the winter.
 

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So My Shaker R/T plus 2016 has an alignment issue with the camber. The garage said it probably came from the factory that way or developed when the springs settled and it is wearing the inside of the tires out.
My car has 18,000 miles on it. The factory warranty is down to the power train. They say the only way to fix it is adjustable control arms or wish bones as I have always called them and bushings in the back.
Has anyone else had this problem and gotten Chrysler to stand good for the fix?
I have read on this and other forums it is quit common but everyone seems to pay the $1000 or so themselves. My thinking is if it is that common and a known production problem they should be responsible for it. What do you think Friends?
IAM new to this hope it's in the write spot 2016 scat pack shaker 1,016 miles same tire issuse all 4 are junk had it to dodge dealer they accused me of using it as a track car then said it was because of the pedal comander then said i did somthing to the rear end so it can't be put into alinment car been raced pulls to the left so bad puts you into the outher lane dealer put 12 miles on it 2 different guys drove it so I called factory they never heard such of a problem iam the first one ever to complain plus your out of warranty that was on 9-5-20 so i trucked it home it yes only 1,028 miles on it
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Did you bring it to their attention before the end of the warranty? If so they should have to honor it. If not save yourself some head aches and take it to a good tire dealer or shop and pay to have adjustable arms ect. put on it. The car is no good if you can't drive it and will cost less then an attorney to fight them. The factory counts on it. Do not by any means take it to a dealer for repair their work sucks and they sure as hell don't deserve anymore of your money. My two cents.
 

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I've got the 2016 Shaker R/T Plus, with the 20" wheels. At 15k miles I saw how the tires were wearing and talked to the stealership about it during my last freebie oil change. They told me tires were covered under a different warranty and I would have to talk to Goodyear about it. Stopped by a Goodyear dealer, and he couldn't help me since I didn't buy the tires from them...
I replaced tires at 20k miles due to inside wear. Bought high mileage tires (Nitto Motivo's) which wore the same way and had to be replaced after 25k miles. Since these had a 60k treadlife warranty and the alignment was within specified tolerances, I got credit on a replacement set and replaced them for under half of what the first set cost. Got the alignment tweaked as far as it would go by the tire shop, but the camber is still wonky looking compared to other cars. I don't expect the tires to last.

From time to time, I get calls from the dealership to trade up. I hang up on them now, as the thought of dropping nearly a grand every 20k miles for tire wear is not in the cards.

Has FCA addressed this non-adjustability or off camber issue, or is this simply the price for the ride and handling?
 

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2016 Dodge Challenger R/T Plus in Granite Crystal Metallic
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As mentioned in a previous post, these cars are designed to have negative camber. Alignment specifications vary from vehicle to vehicle and those specs are available to all alignment shops. For whatever reason there is no adjustability, other than toe, in these cars. Mopar sells a kit (replacement bolts) for the front, that gives camber and caster, but nothing for the rear. There are aftermarket options available for both front and rear, ranging from indexed bushings, offset ball joints and adjustable control arms. I was at the dealer yesterday with another vehicle and this topic came up about the alignments on these cars. FCA insists that they can be adjusted but the technicians can't find anyway to do it and neither can independent shops. Frustrating to say the least.
 

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Unfortunately Dodge has brain lock when it comes to the Challenger, they put Sports car negative camber built into the suspension on a car marketed for straight line running? So there are issues that if you desire to fully resolve you will have to get it done through aftermarket parts, as Dodge itself does not provide anything but OEM parts to replace with.

You can completely remove the negative camber front and rear but it will cost you as the majority of Dodge Challenger owners do not even realize the limitations of the car. Meaning without customer feedback with a host of complaints nothing will ever get done by Dodge, or Chrysler corporation, and even if they foot the bill and replace it all with new OEM, it is a matter of time and the problem returns.

Even as a straight line monster the car has serious limitations to keep the power of the car from destroying more expensive parts, that's why the automatics come with an open differential and 245 tires. It is only recently that the higher power releases have began showing up with wider tires than the 245s. There are many built in safety features in the drive line itself that act as a fusible link to keep from destroying a transmission, or rear end, like excessive negative camber in the rear that wears out the inside to the rear tire and does not allow full road contact of the tire footprint. But they do spin good don't they!

The 2 piece driveshaft with the center carrier bearing which has failed on many of our Challengers is another fusible link, but once you start going with larger rims and wider rear tires, and a Limited Slip Differential, you are putting more pressure on the fusible link and accelerating the MTBF, of the 2 piece driveshaft. And it's failure is just a matter of time, it will happen.

Don't get me wrong, IMO, the Challenger is worth it, BUT, don't expect the factory release to be all it can be, because it is not! You will realize that the day you go to get it aligned and it cannot be done to perfection. Ry
 
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