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Discussion Starter · #461 ·
I have been researching regarding the PCV valve supplied with the Magnuson supercharger, it is a true mystery valve, meaning every where I've looked, it does not exist? Magnuson carries no replacement for it, Steve White either, and a Google search brings up, nothing, from anywhere? I guess it will never need to be replaced so I'm wondering if it is really not a PCV Valve at all, but a metered fitting? Anyone Know?
 

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Discussion Starter · #464 ·
The supercharger experience, quote from Magnuson.

Peak horsepower and torque numbers do not tell the whole story. "Under the curve" power is significantly enhanced delivering near instantaneous boost and torque upon demand that really pins you back in your seat.
What Magnuson calls ("Under the curve" power), is probably what I am most surprised with and have the hardest time trying to explain. When the Magnuson was first installed and I was driving the car, I was in a testing mode of driving I had no idea what I was going to experience. Even though I had ridden in 2 previous factory supercharged vehicles, a 2019 Hellcat Redeye, and a Jeep Grand Cherokee Supercharged, but a previous 2018 Demon owner was driving those cars.

Now that I have had enough time driving the 5.7 supercharged, I find the under the curve power so fascinating, what I am saying is, slapping it to the floor is one thing, but slight to moderate acceleration is a shocking delight, and I really like that part of the experience, because it is a direct boost to the daily driving experience, as there is zero delay in getting that power.

Just a slight extra accelerator pedal gets the slight supercharger whine, and you're in more power than usual, but very smooth and satisfying acceleration, and the exhaust is louder. Comparing that response to naturally aspirated would require 3/4th throttle to duplicate, and most of us do not leave a stop light at 3/4th throttle.

I have learned a lot about superchargers and how they work since the installation and it still surprises me every day driving to discover something new. Ry
 

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Yeah, with the graph from my dyno results I can see that the peak torque went up to 485lb/ft at the wheels. It also shifted that peak 1000rpm lower in the curve making huge gains that you can really feel.

You are experiencing that extra torque everytime the bypass valve closes. I am curious how your Auto trans experience compares to my manual experience. The Hellcat I test drove was a manual too so I don't know how good you AT owners might have it!
 

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Yeah with my Whipple, it blows the Nitto 315's right off. The tuner that did my car sucks and never gave me a dyno sheet after the Blower install like they did for the cam and header install. Just a bunch of blocks on the screen. Was told the HP but not the Torque. HP was 527 Wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #467 ·
Yeah, with the graph from my dyno results I can see that the peak torque went up to 485lb/ft at the wheels. It also shifted that peak 1000rpm lower in the curve making huge gains that you can really feel.

You are experiencing that extra torque everytime the bypass valve closes. I am curious how your Auto trans experience compares to my manual experience. The Hellcat I test drove was a manual too so I don't know how good you AT owners might have it!
I suggest you just go test drive an automatic 392 and see what it is like, you have to experience the automatic for yourself, with your supercharged 5.7 you are at or past the 392s power level, and you will get to see what the 8HP70 transmission is all about.
 

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My brother did just sign on a GC 392 and that thing does rip, my car feels faster but I think its because of weight.

Previous owner left a time on the performance pages of 1.45s to 60ft, 13.3s in the 1/4 at around 108. I have done [email protected] I think. My 60ft time have been terrible, best is 2.02s or so.
 
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Discussion Starter · #469 · (Edited)
Fellow 5.7L supercharged owners, please share your daily experiences of just how your setup responds, regrading cruising, light throttle, medium throttle, passing, and hard throttle, daily driving it around.

The 5.7 falls into a unique territory boosted because the power to weight ratio is a really good number for the cars weight. Unless you're reaching for the stars most are around 500hp, and with the right driveline changes and rear tires, you can get the car moving off the line, with little to no tire spin. So with the right performance changes the 5.7 Challenger can fall into the Goldilocks category, not too little, and not too much, but just right! :)

High horsepower is totally irrelevant, because if you cannot get your horsepower down to the road, it is a useless bragging rights number.
The way the Challengers rear end is setup, without major reconstructive changes, which done right would be very expensive, you can only fit so wide of a tire back there. So even with 700 ~ 1,000hp, you're just a tire spinning spectacle, right exactly where Dodge wants, and advertises you to be. (Sorry No Offense intended, just a dose of reality)
 

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Discussion Starter · #470 · (Edited)
Previous owner left a time on the performance pages of 1.45s to 60ft, 13.3s in the 1/4 at around 108. I have done [email protected] I think. My 60ft time have been terrible, best is 2.02s or so.
My quarter mile timed by the car naturally aspirated was 12.7, with a full tank of gas and junk in the trunk and tire spin off the line as I was still running the Pirellis back then.


Car Speedometer Vehicle Tachometer Odometer


That had a lot to do with the automatic transmission and the one piece driveshaft as this was run after the driveshaft was installed.
 
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interesting, so its said that a manual shift is about 500 milliseconds and the HP870 shifts abotu 160milliseconds.

I need 3 gear changes to make the 1/4, do you think you would cross the line in 4th or 5th?

Even it is 4 changes that is about .640s while I take about 1.5s, so my best N/A was a 13.79s so about a second faster if I had an Auto!

That means I sould break into the 11s with the supercharger.

I have not been to the drag strip with my one piece driveshaft. One day I will get some actual drag radials too, all my times are with street tires at the track, hence the pitiful 2.0s 60ft.
 
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My quarter mile timed by the car naturally aspirated was 12.7, with a full tank of gas and junk in the trunk and tire spin off the line as I was still running the Pirellis back then.


View attachment 320813

That had a lot to do with the automatic transmission and the one piece driveshaft as this was run after the driveshaft was installed.
I am doing something wrong if you ran that naturally aspirated, My best is a 12.9 on street tires with tons of spin as I did it on the street.
 

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Discussion Starter · #473 · (Edited)
I am doing something wrong if you ran that naturally aspirated, My best is a 12.9 on street tires with tons of spin as I did it on the street.
Mine was on the street on a back country road, if you're getting tons of tire spin your tires are probably your problem.

#1 Too hard of rear rubber composition, the higher the UTQG Treadwear number the harder the rubber, 500s spin like butter off the line, 300s are little better but still spin, 200s are better still but too agressive spin as well. The lower the Treadwear number the softer the rubber, which gets better off the line traction, but the shorter amount of time they last.

#2 Bad rear negative camber causing the tire to not lay flat to the road, usually physically evident by extreme tire wear on the inside of the tire. Many go to wider tires thinking that will solve their traction problem and end up with worse times than the 245s. That is because the wider tire with bad rear negative camber, is only touching the road with approximately 50% of the tires footprint under hard torque acceleration. Where the 245 was at 100% footprint to the road the wider tire is now supplying less traction because it is not fully contacting the road.

#3 Running an Open differential. Nuff Said!

#4 Matching the rim width to the tires suggested to run on them, if the tires require a 10" rim and you are cramming them on an 8" rim, it bows out the tread footprint. So properly match the tires to the rims.

I have been saying this all along but very few actually listen, many want the git and go, but are not willing to accept lower mileage from their tires. So it boils down to if you want high mileage from your tires, UTQG 400 and up, you are going to get pitiful off the line traction does not matter the brand. If you want excellent off the line traction, UTQG 100 or lower, but you'll only get about 10,000 miles from them.
 

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Mine was on the street on a back country road, if you're getting tons of tire spin your tires are probably your problem.

#1 Too hard of rear rubber composition, the higher the UTQG Treadwear # the harder the rubber, 500s spin like butter, 300s are little better but still spin, 200s are even better but still spin as well, the lower the number the softer the rubber which gets better off the line traction, but the shorter time they last you. Best rear tires I have run yet are the Mickey Thompson ET Street S/S tires, you can buy an entire set of cheap tires for what 2 will cost you, an R2 rubber composition Treadwear # is 000.

#2 Bad rear negative camber causing the tire to not lay flat to the road, usually physically evident by extreme tire wear on the inside of the tire. Many go to wider tires thinking that will solve their problem and end up with worse times than the 245s. That is because the wider tire with bad rear negative camber, is only touching the road with approximately 50% of the tires footprint under hard torque acceleration. Where the 245 was at 100% footprint to the road the wider tire is now supplying less traction because it is not fully contacting the road.

#3 Running an Open differential.

Almost forgot #4 Matching the rim width to the tires suggested to run on them, if the tires require a 10" rim and you are cramming them on an 8" rim, it bows out the tread footprint. So properly match the tires to the rims.

I have been saying this all along but very few actually listen, many want the git and go, but are not willing to accept lower mileage from their tires. So it boils down to if you want high mileage from your tires, UTQG 400 and up, you are going to get pitiful off the line traction does no matter the brand. If you want excellent off the line traction, UTQG 100 or lower, but you'll only get about 10,000 miles from them, and they are expensive tires.
ran it on Nitto Motivo 315/35 R15 I run NT555G2 now and have 2 NT05R for when I used to go to the track

I have an LSD and I have 10.5" rims on the rear

I forgot, I used launch control set to 3000 rpm, car sat there right at 3k and as soon as I let go of the brake, spinning city.
 

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Discussion Starter · #475 ·
ran it on Nitto Motivo 315/35 R15 I run NT555G2 now and have 2 NT05R for when I used to go to the track

I have an LSD and I have 10.5" rims on the rear

I forgot, I used launch control set to 3000 rpm, car sat there right at 3k and as soon as I let go of the brake, spinning city.
I do not use launch control.
 

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Discussion Starter · #476 ·
I need 3 gear changes to make the 1/4, do you think you would cross the line in 4th or 5th?
I honestly have no idea what gear it is in crossing the quarter mile at that point I have my eyes locked on the road ahead.
 

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I honestly have no idea what gear it is in crossing the quarter mile at that point I have my eyes locked on the road ahead.
All the more reason to get to the track! I completely understand focusing on the road.
 
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Wow talk about a research day of learning! I was researching various tire prices and ended up discovering a warning regarding the Mickey Thompson ET Street S/S tires I run, and recommend to others. The warning was not to run the tires on a Dyno, my curiosity went through the roof, and I found this at Mickey Thompson.

Tire use on a Dyno

I have not run mine on a Dyno so I am not concerned about that, but I still wanted to know why, and I found something that pretty much explains the pressure tires have to endure being strapped down to a chassis Dyno. This explains more than just the loss of horsepower.

Ry - I experienced this difference... 36 RWHP loss on the Dyno with MT's vs stock tires. As the video points out, not a true loss - good to watch out for though! Loving the supercharged 5.7 - fun daily driver :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #479 ·
Took a friend for a ride in Black Beauty Friday, he had not ridden in it since it had been supercharged, and he was reluctant to go for a ride as he likes to be in control and drive himself, his words. I had previously offered to let him drive the car when it was naturally aspirated but he refused back then, and now I would not let him drive it supercharged, as it only takes one mistake and you are in a ditch. I told him I had no plans to take it to extremes as I would only do that in the car by myself, never when anyone else was with me.

So he agreed and we went for a ride, now he is the type that does not get excited even if he did he would not show it. Went out to a country road with fields on each side and no roads to enter the highway, stopped it, made sure he was ready. No vehicles in front or behind and hard rolled into the throttle, the supercharger whined, the exhaust roared, the tires grabbed the road and literally launched us forward no spinning. It slapped him back in the seat and that was all I needed to see, ran up to 65 and let off, no comments as I expected, just cool, calm, and collected as usual. :ROFLMAO:

Sometimes comments are not necessary! Ry
 

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Discussion Starter · #480 ·
The new SOLO H pipe exhaust is very quiet normally driving, it literally purrs like a kitten, and it was very loud, naturally aspirated. With the supercharger fully engaged it is so much louder and sounds like a Nascar engine revving. We live 10+ miles away from the Darlington Nascar track, and when they race you can hear them from our home. BB supercharged can put out an engine sound so loud it is actually shocking, and I love it.
My friend got a three shock slap, the loud supercharger whine, the exhaust under power, and the slap into the seat, Priceless!!! :ROFLMAO:
 
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