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Discussion Starter #1
So I've been through the ringer with several different dealerships and mechanics. They replaced fluids, finally replaced the transmission, fixed this and that and it feels better than it did when I bought it a year later, but something is still wrong. I'm not an expert on cars, but I've driven other manual challengers and I know it's not normal. Usually in bumper to bumper traffic, if I find myself on a hill, I have to jam the shifter out of gear. Otherwise, I just get bumpy, crunchy shifts which feel like there is no lubricant - just dry metal on metal.. I love my car and I want it to be an enjoyable experience to drive. Sometimes it and is and sometimes it isn't.

So my question, what's left for me to do? Dodge dealerships all say it's driving as designed, but I've driven a '19 6MT and although it does feel a little notchy, it did not get stuck in gear and the notches were not as pronounced or "dry" feeling. My plan is to put in some new trans fluid this week (tremec's MT HP fluid), but I don't think that's the problem. I'm at the point where if I can't make it feel any better, I will just sell it and look for something else. I'd really rather not do that since I've put so much time and work into this vehicle and I don't like to give up. It's also a very unique color, trim, interior and look with the shaker hood that I wouldn't be able to easily find again (I had to buy it out of state as it was)

Desperate. If someone wants to talk to me on the phone about it, I'd be happy to talk to you. Shit, I'd pay someone with experience to come out to MA and drive my car and see if they can figure out what's going on, because apparently no one else can.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Design flaw, go with an A8
I do hear great things about A8s, but at this point, I'd just choose a different muscle car that I could drive with stick. I just prefer having that level of control when I want more RPMs. Thanks for your input. Do you consider this a widespread issue with all 6MT drivers? I hear some people with manual transmissions who have their "shifts like butter" experience.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That's kinda where I'm at. Dealership said he drove it for like a week and found problems shifting sometimes, but that it's as expected. Then he went on to say if anything he would replace the clutch but it was checked when they replaced the transmission and it looked fine, etc. etc. The clutch feels fine to me but who knows. Something seems to be keeping the input shaft in motion while the clutch is to the floor. There shouldn't be any resistance until the clutch is disengaged as far as I know. I'm trying to get dodge to cover a replacement since it's something the dealership mentioned and they're only cover costs for what the dealership considers an issue.
 

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You don't need one of us to confirm the transmission is acting up you need to confirm this with a dealer tech.

You need to speak to the dealer service manager and maybe the GM to about this issue. You need to be able to demo the behavior.

I'm no expert but I have to agree with farmer52. At this point I'd be looking beyond the transmission and the clutch plays a very big role in how the transmission behaves.

In short the behavior could very well be clutch related. The clutch is not fully disengaging and I know from experience if the clutch doesn't fully disengage shift issues will happen. The clutch hydraulic system might be compromised. The fluid or even just the slave cylinder can't keep the clutch disengaged.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Funny you say that. I just remembered that when I did take it to an independent shop who drove it for all of one afternoon, he said he thought the car vibrating when the clutch is release is abnormal. He suggested there may be a bent flywheel, which he said should be replaced along with clutch.

Another independent shop took it for a few days.. pulled out the barton and found shifting improved (it did) and found that with clutch to the floor, the rear end was engaged, which is not right
and he got stuck trying to come out of reverse.

I bet if i shelled out the money to have an independent shop fix it, I would've been done months ago.
 

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I do hear great things about A8s, but at this point, I'd just choose a different muscle car that I could drive with stick. I just prefer having that level of control when I want more RPMs. Thanks for your input. Do you consider this a widespread issue with all6MT drivers? I hear some people with manual transmissions who have their "shifts like butter" experience.
Absolutely a widespread issue and of course there’s always some good apples out there but overall the 6060 is a complaint pit, coming from a M6 myself I know first hand what real dangerous issues this trans can throw at you at a light or in the middle of making a left turn (stuck in gear) that said, have you driven an A8? it’ll change your mind set pretty darn fast! Well a HP90 anyways will
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Absolutely a widespread issue and of course there’s always some good apples out there but overall the 6060 is a complaint pit, coming from a M6 myself I know first hand what real dangerous issues this trans can throw at you at a light or in the middle of making a left turn (stuck in gear) that said, have you driven an A8? it’ll change your mind set pretty darn fast! Well a HP90 anyways will
I have driven an A8. I prefer to stick with stick, even if it means getting a different muscle car
 

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I am a manual transmission expert and one thing un-mentioned here is that the pilot bearing in the flywheel may be dragging the input shaft. This oft missed item has stumped many over the last century and has mechanics tear their hair out when the real root cause has finally been realized.

-John
 

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^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Problem solved.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I am a manual transmission expert and one thing un-mentioned here is that the pilot bearing in the flywheel may be dragging the input shaft. This oft missed item has stumped many over the last century and has mechanics tear their hair out when the real root cause has finally been realized.

-John
Sounds simple and easy to check.. If anything surprised me anymore, I would be surprised if something so simple was missed by multiple mechanics. I'm pretty sure I've asked them to check the pilot bearing. Interestingly, one of the independent shops did mention he thought the flywheel was bent, so if you are right, he would've at least been the closest and he only had the car for 1/2 day..

Is there a way I can check that or a test I can give them to check that? The last time I picked it up, they pretty much told me it has some problems in some gears, but that's just the way it is and to enjoy it..
 

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Function of a clutch = Removes the load on the gears
Why you can't shift gears = There is load on the gears
Telling you to enjoy it the way it is is B.S. It should shift as good as an old M22 Muncie or Ford Toploader.
My 2013 RT did and my 2016 RT Scat Scat Pack did. And I beat the ever living crap out of the both of them without either one of them ever getting stuck in gear or having shifting problems.
You could have had a bad pilot bearing right from the factory caused by a marriage assembly problem. They could have crashed the input shaft into the edge of the pilot bearing cage (it is a caged needle bearing) and slightly distorted it when they slid the transmission and engine together. From that point on it would be tight and only get tighter with operation especially when it warms up because metal expands when hot. This is why swapping the transmission did not solve the problem. Transmission got to come out again to check the pilot bearing.
-John
 

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Discussion Starter #15
John and all, thanks so much for the info. I'm not giving up yet. Not sure how I can get them to pull the transmission to check that. My only leverage right now is the fact that the dealership mentioned the clutch may need to come out if he were going to dig deeper, even though he said it looked fine (so why bring it up?) Would the trans need to come out for that clutch replacement? Maybe if I could get them to replace the clutch, they can check that while it's out

Thanks again
 

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John and all, thanks so much for the info. I'm not giving up yet. Not sure how I can get them to pull the transmission to check that. My only leverage right now is the fact that the dealership mentioned the clutch may need to come out if he were going to dig deeper, even though he said it looked fine (so why bring it up?) Would the trans need to come out for that clutch replacement? Maybe if I could get them to replace the clutch, they can check that while it's out

Thanks again
I would have them replace the pilot bearing, not just check it, it is apart, now is the time to replace it. Along with the clutch assembly, do it right the first time.
 
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Something seems to be keeping the input shaft in motion while the clutch
Another independent shop took it for a few days.. pulled out the barton and found shifting improved (it did) and found that with clutch to the floor, the rear end was engaged, which is not right
and he got stuck trying to come out of reverse.
You have an issue with your clutch or throw out bearing.
 

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Years ago I had the slave cylinder fail in my old Jeep Liberty. It would really act up when temps dropped below 30 degrees, doing everything you have mentioned, getting stuck in gear and almost impossible to shift because of the clutch dragging. Had to replace the the master and slave- it’s one completely sealed system, semi rigid line and all. I also agree with @TheOldGuy that it could be the pilot bearing/bushing or the input shaft could be banged up and not releasing.
 

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Sorry to hear you are still having trouble. It’s not like you can easily just take the trans out to keep trouble shooting it. Too bad they could not figure out the new trans was still not the solution before giving the car back to you? I would try to get in touch with some guys drag racing with M6’s, maybe Hellcat guys, and see if they can offer any insight. There is a race section in that other forum.
 

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Years ago I had the slave cylinder fail in my old Jeep Liberty. It would really act up when temps dropped below 30 degrees, doing everything you have mentioned, getting stuck in gear and almost impossible to shift because of the clutch dragging. Had to replace the the master and slave- it’s one completely sealed system, semi rigid line and all. I also agree with @TheOldGuy that it could be the pilot bearing/bushing or the input shaft could be banged up and not releasing.
Another Jeep Liberty? OMG! Same problem on my 2006. Had to pump the pedal on cold days to release the clutch. Replaced that master/line/slave cylinder assembly on a day when it was -20 degrees outside--but I was lucky enough to have a heated garage. That Liberty went to the boneyard with a perfectly running drive train but died of body cancer after 310,000 miles and would not pass inspection. Oh but to correct myself, I did remove the drive train and I am looking for a body.
-John
 
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