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That's exactly what my clutch and trans look like when I replace the clutch at 49,000 miles on my 2012 for sticking and grinding. The worst part is the old clutch only showed slightly more wear than the new clutch. The tech at Tremec talked me into there new snake oil trans fluid, which made the trans crunch and grind worst than the ATF+4 that was in it. That was a waste of a hundred dollars(4 quarts of oil and shipping). As much as i hate to say it, I'm beginning to think the only way to solve the problem with these absolute junk Tremec transmissions is to put an 8HP70 in the car. That really hurts coming from a guy that likes driving stick cars.
 

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That's exactly what my clutch and trans look like when I replace the clutch at 49,000 miles on my 2012 for sticking and grinding. The worst part is the old clutch only showed slightly more wear than the new clutch. The tech at Tremec talked me into there new snake oil trans fluid, which made the trans crunch and grind worst than the ATF+4 that was in it. That was a waste of a hundred dollars(4 quarts of oil and shipping). As much as i hate to say it, I'm beginning to think the only way to solve the problem with these absolute junk Tremec transmissions is to put an 8HP70 in the car. That really hurts coming from a guy that likes driving stick cars.
The transmission is not the problem. The issue is that damn shifter that hangs off the rear like a divining branch. It would have been better if there were no console and the shifter had an "S" bend so that the gear selector could be part of the mounting plate above the gear selector rails. Whoever decided to engineer that wishbone shifter support that hangs off like a broken dogs tail ought to be killed. Twice! Fitting the gearbox with the hybrid syncros and about 6 ounces of lubegard has these things shifting fairly smoothly. That and with the correct Sachs grease on the clutch splines. Or, go and see that guy down in Florida that builds brand new Muncie M22 stone crushers and swap one in.
-John
 

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I beg to differ with you the divorced shifter's on the transmissions are not the problem, it's the fine tooth syncros and clutching teeth that give them a very narrow window for shifting. The syncros can't slow the rotating mass in side these 6 speeds enough for the narrow window. Even the hybrid syncros are going to fail before they should and no amount of snake oil is going to cure them. Oh and if I was going to put a 4 speed in my street car it wood be the strongest one ever made, the 833 New Process not the weakest which was the Muncie. Even the top Chevy drag racers and the Chevy Nascar teams back in the day wouldn't run Muncie's, they ran 833 or Ford top loaders. And all of those transmissions had divorced shifters too.
 

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If I ever replace the transmission in my ride it will be with a RPM6060 level II.
 
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My ‘16 goes to the dealer on Tuesday for the same issue OP had. I have a feeling this is gonna be an interesting visit even when I’m still in my warranty window.
 

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Grumpy Jenkins abusing a Muncie transmission. He ran both M21's and M22's He would run nothing else.
-John
 

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Dry sticky splines on these dual clutch units play hell with shifting. My massaged for high rpm shifting Tranzilla started to give me issues especially when it was cold, was told it was the synchros. I removed the trans, with a tooth brush size wire brush cleaned clutch and shaft splines well, applied Dow Corning Molycoat 44 Light (factory lube at 1/4 the price from dealer) and shifting improved tremendously.
 

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Back in the early 70's my first car was a 61 2dr. bubble top Impala with a 302 c.i., m 21 wide ratio. 4.56 gears( this car lead me to buy a 69 Dodge Coronet R/T in 1973 and never look at a Chevy again) and my bother had a 67 Camaro , 327, m 21 wide ratio, 3.73 gears( he went over to the dark side to Fords to get away from Chevy's). We ran the wide ratio trans. for the 2.5x first gear, we always had spare transmissions in the garage( my father was always pissed because he couldn't get into his own garage from all the broken Chevy parts). We spent many a nights under those 2 cars changing out broken Muncies and other weak Chevy parts so we could go to school or work the next day. About that same time a group of 6 of us were working on a friends 69 Camaro that ran in G/Gas with 318 c.i. sbc( specially built for the weight breaks of the class). It ran a m 22(with that ridicules 2.20 road race first gear that they all came with), the car ran 6.17 gears in it to get a better starting line ratio(6.17x2.20= 13.57). When the driver could hit all four gears( without missing or breaking) it would run on the index of 10.90. He left the line at 9000 rpm, shifted between 9 and 9.5 and went through the traps between 9.5 and 10,000 at just over 120 mph, even your famed m 22 didn't like being shifted at those rpm's. Chrysler came out with the red stripe over the counter Direct Connection 833 slick shifted trans for drag racing with 3 or 4 first gear ratio's between 2.65 and 3.09( the only factory trans designed to be shifted at high rpm's) by the mid 70's most professional race teams no matter what brand were using them( even teams like Grumpy's that would never admit to it, afraid of losing there Chevy sponsorship). After that came the Doug Nash 5spd., the Jerico, Lenco, Liberty, and G-Force, all different but basic same idea as the red stripe 833. Oh and I will give you this one about your Muncies, they were the smoothest shifting transmission's of there day, but that was because of there glass like alkalies heel narrow light weight gears and flexible aluminum cases and can you say Sox & Martin, Dick Landy, and a few more that had Grumpy crying tear as big as moose turds and campaigned to NHRA to have all kinds of sanctions put against the Hemi Mopars so he could compete. Look at the new factory stock class the Chevy guys cried again to NHRA and got 100# put on the Dodge's and bigger super chargers on the Chevy's so they could win a race.
 

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Back in the early 70's my first car was a 61 2dr. bubble top Impala with a 302 c.i., m 21 wide ratio. 4.56 gears( this car lead me to buy a 69 Dodge Coronet R/T in 1973 and never look at a Chevy again) and my bother had a 67 Camaro , 327, m 21 wide ratio, 3.73 gears( he went over to the dark side to Fords to get away from Chevy's). We ran the wide ratio trans. for the 2.5x first gear, we always had spare transmissions in the garage( my father was always pissed because he couldn't get into his own garage from all the broken Chevy parts). We spent many a nights under those 2 cars changing out broken Muncies and other weak Chevy parts so we could go to school or work the next day. About that same time a group of 6 of us were working on a friends 69 Camaro that ran in G/Gas with 318 c.i. sbc( specially built for the weight breaks of the class). It ran a m 22(with that ridicules 2.20 road race first gear that they all came with), the car ran 6.17 gears in it to get a better starting line ratio(6.17x2.20= 13.57). When the driver could hit all four gears( without missing or breaking) it would run on the index of 10.90. He left the line at 9000 rpm, shifted between 9 and 9.5 and went through the traps between 9.5 and 10,000 at just over 120 mph, even your famed m 22 didn't like being shifted at those rpm's. Chrysler came out with the red stripe over the counter Direct Connection 833 slick shifted trans for drag racing with 3 or 4 first gear ratio's between 2.65 and 3.09( the only factory trans designed to be shifted at high rpm's) by the mid 70's most professional race teams no matter what brand were using them( even teams like Grumpy's that would never admit to it, afraid of losing there Chevy sponsorship). After that came the Doug Nash 5spd., the Jerico, Lenco, Liberty, and G-Force, all different but basic same idea as the red stripe 833. Oh and I will give you this one about your Muncies, they were the smoothest shifting transmission's of there day, but that was because of there glass like alkalies heel narrow light weight gears and flexible aluminum cases and can you say Sox & Martin, Dick Landy, and a few more that had Grumpy crying tear as big as moose turds and campaigned to NHRA to have all kinds of sanctions put against the Hemi Mopars so he could compete. Look at the new factory stock class the Chevy guys cried again to NHRA and got 100# put on the Dodge's and bigger super chargers on the Chevy's so they could win a race.
You don't seem to like Grumpy very much nor' Chevy in general. I was lucky to meet him and spend time with him for part of one of those days. Him running an 833? I doubt it. I'd like to see someone prove that. It is a fact however that during the 1972 season, Grumpy made 250 drag strip passes without missing a gear. That is even stated on Wikipedia. And yes it was a Muncie gearbox. GM purposely redesigned it back in 1963 for the torque of the BBC, pickup truck use, and the 510 Lb. feet of torque of the Buick 455 Stage 1 engine.
Grumpy wasn't called the father of pro-stock for nothing.
His innovations were the first kick out oil pans, strut style front suspension, dry sump oiling to prevent oil windage loss, cool cans, electric water pumps, gas port pistons, and redesigns to the Muncie that had every other brass tooth removed and bead blasting of the syncro braking surface for faster shifting capability.
13 NHRA championships.
His engines that were built for other teams were responsible for winning 5 NHRA championships and 3 AHRA championships. Wikipedia claims that he got his nickname from, "His continual search for improved performance left little time for idle chatter with his racing colleagues." I found him very easy to talk to as long as I had valid questions about my car and how to improve. What he hated was idle chatter.
His nemesis was the evil Ronnie Sox. That guy gave him fits. And not because he ran an 833 gearbox.
I also met Dick Landy once but, that guy wouldn't give anyone the time of day.
-John
 

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Well my car went to the dealership and the Star case procedure isn’t covered under warranty. Currently dealing with the FCA on this issue at the moment. Sad that an issue during production can’t be fixed under warranty.
 

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Well it looks like I’m gonna be tackling this myself. I have all the tools but going to be doing this one on jack stands. Anyone recommend the Mopar all purpose grease or another one they prefer. I seen quite a few Moly NLGI #2 greases like Mobil 1’s Mobilux and Valvoline has one too. I like AMSOIL products but they really don’t list their contents and I ran across Sachs performance grease. Lots to choose from just want a good one.
 

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Well it looks like I’m gonna be tackling this myself. I have all the tools but going to be doing this one on jack stands. Anyone recommend the Mopar all purpose grease or another one they prefer. I seen quite a few Moly NLGI #2 greases like Mobil 1’s Mobilux and Valvoline has one too. I like AMSOIL products but they really don’t list their contents and I ran across Sachs performance grease. Lots to choose from just want a good one.
The Sachs spline grease or Caterpillar spline grease. The Cat stuff will last for a half million miles. And it will still be there 20 years later and still working.
-John
 

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I liked Sachs since that grease is formulated for this purpose mainly. I just didn’t know since it doesn’t says MoS2 ngli #2. I didn’t want it to be gummy or superglue.
 

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All the spline problems arose from FCA using their own brand of grease. If they had used what was supposed to be on there in the first place, no Star case would exist for them having to R & R transmissions in so many M6 cars and put on the proper grease. Oh yea, and clean the rust off the splines too. Because the shitty grease they used simply vaporized and nothing was left for the 2 discs to slide on.
-John
 

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Grease MOPAR uses now is actually DOW CORNING MOLYCOAT 44 LIGHT. Dow Corning used to make so top notch greases?
If your going to be doing this off jack stands for to Harbor Freight and get your self their scissor type transmission jack for about $75, it works great, MUCH better then trying to balance the trans on a floor jack or worse try and man handle it free hand.
 

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Thanks 16M6GoManGo. I’m still making my decision on the grease and been doing a lot of research and contacting vendors and clutch suppliers on greases they recommend so I can make the best choice. Seems like I just need to pick a good Moly grease with a good enough % of moly that is NGLI #2. Dow Corning is a popular brand and will do some reading on them now.
 

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44 Light is thinner then a NLGI2 I think, doesn’t say on the box, it’s what I used on my Hellcats Dual disk clutch with success. I have thicker sticker much better grease around but that’s what is not wanted is a sticky thick grease, a slippery thin one that doesn’t harden over time is what’s wanted
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