[HemiMetal]

In my research deciding between several makes/models of CAI's for my 5.7L Challenger, I have included reading the downloadable installation instructions that many CAI makers have on their website. One set of instructions for a BBK CAI includes a step to disconnect the battery's negative terminal, but doesn't explain why.

I would guess this is a precautionary step to safeguard the IAT sensor? If so, is it really a necessary precaution?

 

[jkelly16]

I think that's a standard for doing anything. I will have to say that I don't disconnect the battery unless I think I'm messing with something that may be hot with the car cut off.

 

[MIDNITE RT]

I didn't disconnect the battery when I installed my CAI. Just make sure not to start the car until you finish the installation.

 

[TikiMan]

I didn't disconnect the battery. In fact, I bought a spare IAT sensor from the parts dept for $10 bucks and left the orig one in the stock setup and mounted/inserted the new one into my Mopar CAI. No fuss with playing around with it.

 

[cdahl383]

No need to disconnect the battery for CAI install. You're only removing the intake tube and airbox and disconnecting the IAT sensor harness from the sensor in the tube.

X2 on the buying a spare IAT sensor. They're dirt cheap and then you have a spare. You can use the stock one from the stock tube but it's really easy to break off that little tab on the sensor when removing it. Either go slow and take your time removing it or just get a spare and be done with it.

 

[jakmarlin]

As others have said, no need to disconnect the battery for CAI install. Be mindful of where the IAT sensor connects to the new CAI tube. Some CAI manufacturers put the sensor farther away (Volant) and stretch the IAT wire out like a piano string; not sure about BBK. Pulling the battery cable will also reset the computer, perhaps that's why. Good luck!

 

[cdahl383]

^ You can purchase IAT harness extensions from Chris at Legmaker Intakes. He makes a short 9" and long 18" extension harness. They're plug and play, no splicing wires, etc. Come with nice connectors and wire looms over the wiring. They're $25-40 I believe depending on which one you get. I used one for a while when I relocated my IAT sensor with the stock airbox. Now I'm running an LMI intake and just kept it in the stock location, no extension.

 

[BruceHennigan]

CAI install

Instructions for my kit state to disconnect negative cable if engine idles rough or you get the check engine light after install. It says to reconnect after at least 1 hour and then start and let idle for 5 minutes to reset the engine control module (to learn the new MAF value)? I think the comment regarding damaging the electronics makes sense to be safe.

 

[HemiMetal]

Forgot about this thread! I installed my CAI last weekend and no problems with the IAT sensor, and I did not have to disconnect the negative battery terminal. :smileup:

 

[wyo.hemi]

I didn't disconnect the battery and 1.5 years later nothing wrong. Mine has extra slack so I wire tied out of the way.

 

[stretch0069]

K&N sent me an extension cable for mine.

 

[wyo.hemi]

K&N sent me an extension cable for mine.

Yeah that is right, that is why I have the extra haha

 

[BruceHennigan]

Forgot about this thread! I installed my CAI last weekend and no problems with the IAT sensor, and I did not have to disconnect the negative battery terminal. :smileup:

Just put my phtuneup CAI on yesterday.Did not disconnect negative terminal and it runs great and no check engine.

 

[HemiMetal]

Well, I spoke (posted?) too soon. CEL came on today, but it was my fault. I was fiddling with my catch can the other night and the heel of hand probably pushed against the IAT wiring harness, causing the IAT sensor to work about halfway out of the LMI air tube grommet.

I checked the connectors and pushed the IAT back into the grommet, but the CEL remains on. I also thought that my MDS wouldn't engage (many here would consider that a plus), but after running a search on Google, it doesn't appear to be anything serious and that the MDS is engaged, but the eco light remains off until the CEL gets cleared.

Luckily my Challenger is due for an oil change at the dealership, so I will have them check out the CEL and reset it, or I might do it myself with my ELM327 OBDII reader.

 

[cdahl383]

If you have a Predator/Intune you can probably clear the code yourself. It will clear on its own if the problem is fixed after so many engine cycles (start/stop), not sure how many though.

But if it's going to the dealership anyway might as well just have them look into it for you.

 

[HemiMetal]

If you have a Predator/Intune you can probably clear the code yourself. It will clear on its own if the problem is fixed after so many engine cycles (start/stop), not sure how many though.

But if it's going to the dealership anyway might as well just have them look into it for you.

Thanks Carl. I forgot about my last post in this thread. The CEL went off on it's own and everything went back to normal the same evening. I found out later on that the IAT had nothing to do with the CEL, it was actually my remote engine start that caused a front module to throw the code.

 

[cdahl383]

Oh ok cool, glad it's all good again!

 

[pugsleyadams]

When I put my k&n in last year,the IAT sensor on the stock tube was flush with it. Used the grommet supplied with new tube and when I attempted to twist in the IAT it only went in half way. Should it also be flush? I don't want to force it in. Been like this since installation and have had no problems.