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Yes I used a laser heat gun to see what is really going on. The overflow tank checked at 217F. The inside wall of my air box was the same. So I cut up a old windshield foiled shield and inserted 2 layers of that material in the small space between the two . Using a paint stir stick allowed me to push down the material which is like a sandwich. That issue is now solved. The short 7" tube is most diffcult to work on. One attempt failed. More to come.
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Scat Pak Jan 03 2020.JPG
 

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Tired of these fkrs making money off us while providing a bs product using Youtube to pimp this crap out to us. These CAI should have thermal insulation, a top to them and a way to easily remove the cone filter for cleaning. If they are not going to make them THEN I WILL. It is easy to contract this stuff out though a Chinese manufacturer and mark it up 300% but to do it and come out with a schitt products means we need to step up, create better products and take them out.
 

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Tired of these fkrs making money off us while providing a bs product using Youtube to pimp this crap out to us. These CAI should have thermal insulation, a top to them and a way to easily remove the cone filter for cleaning. If they are not going to make them THEN I WILL. It is easy to contract this stuff out though a Chinese manufacturer and mark it up 300% but to do it and come out with a schitt products means we need to step up, create better products and take them out.
Well said sir !
Now with the holiday season closing out it's time for me to attack this problem of heat transfer ! My test have proven that the insulation needs to be on the outside thus preventing warming the air box and creating a hot spot. I have a new roll of Thermo- Tec insulation ready to go.
 

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Not to beat this topic up anymore, so many threads, but from my mods and testing of IATs, the best setup for me was installing a lower Hellcat air box, with the headlight air tube and the stock air box lid and filter. Of course the shaker port tube was disconnected. At about 80kms per hour I achieved ambient IATs. Overall lower temps at idle too. Most of the cooler air is pulled from the opening at the base of the lower air box, the path of least resistance I would say.
 

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I just replaced my Hellcat Airbox with a JLT Series II using a stainless rain fender instead of that stupid plastic shield closing the hood vent. I knew it would breathe better but I definitely noticed a difference at 40 MPH I lit up both rear 305ZR20s no problem, not a screech but full spin. I thought it was by chance but it was repeatable. I then did a 0-60 and drove it like I usually do but got way more wheel spin than normal. Still did a 4.3, I know I could have done a lot better but did not have time to keep doing it. I then put the car in dyno mode. I used to see it run about 485 HP, this time went over 500+ easy.
I got a screenshot of it, trying to find the file now. With my window open I can hear a little bit of a whistle when I first step on the gas, sound I can hear the air being sucked in.
I went back and forth over these CAI, if you decide to keep your HC airbox make sure you try a MAHLE Hellcat Air filter with it, it has more flow.
I am going to be posting a video of it next week on my Sky1Videos Youtube channel
 

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When I brought my new Scat Pack Shaker home and inspected it I was shocked at the small puny air tube running from the Shaker to the air box ? WTF ? Constraints due to lack of space, yes. Better solution , maybe ? The connection tube running from the air box to the TB is a disaster air flow and heat soak wise, better solution waiting to happen.
 

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When I brought my new Scat Pack Shaker home and inspected it I was shocked at the small puny air tube running from the Shaker to the air box ? WTF ? Constraints due to lack of space, yes. Better solution , maybe ? The connection tube running from the air box to the TB is a disaster air flow and heat soak wise, better solution waiting to happen.
I know what you mean, but most of the cooler air comes from the base of the lower air box. Best mod is the headlight air tube, most bang for the buck I would say. The best temps I had was in a test config, lower HC airbox, with headlight tube and a stock air box lid. Reached ambient at 90 kms per hour. I just let the shaker tube hang. I am thinking of disconnecting the shaker tube altogether and using the original HC design. Good luck.
 

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Yes first thing I did to me new car was to install the headlight tube. But heat gun shows high temps everywhere after driving around.
 

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Good thinking with that rain diverter ! This JLT is on my short list. I'll do the alum. wrap on the outside of the box and tube. My laser heat gun showed a high temp 218 at the wall of the air box where it's way to close to the coolant reservoir .By doing a quick fix using windshield alum. sandwich pieces as a barrier the temp dropped well over 70 degrees . Used a paint stirrer to push the barrier down . Crude but it works and was quick ! So that is a problem area. Used a laser temp gun to verify efforts. Note 2 layers that stopped the 218 degree heat transfer dead ! Once I get my JLT I'll do this right. It's always hot in South FL so this is a big issue.
Scat Pak Jan 03 2020.JPG
 

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Yeah I figured the coolant tank and the facing section close to the exhaust manifold along with the intake tube would be where the heat comes from. Also on the JLT they leave a large gap around the intake tube to the box and above the tube(probably to allow it to move when you accelerate) I think a flexible section going around that and over the top of the tube might help as well.
I might spray paint the foil black before applying it so it is no so obtrusive when I open the hood.

But driving around I don't see much of a temperature difference with the JLT or the Hellcat Airbox without the heat shield until I stop and idle for a bit but I haven't driven the car much since I installed it.

Actually because of Covid and working from home, haven't gone nearly anywhere with the car! But today wifey and I going out house shopping, it is very cold out so be interesting to see how it reacts.

I am also looking to make a plug for the front snorkel, I am getting these nasty stains on the hoodliner. Not sure if it is from heavy rains or the soap from the car wash.

Has anyone created a block for that? I see they have them for the Subaru WRX's but haven't seen them for the Challenger SRT hoods
 

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After driving in 70 degree weather the other day I used my temperature gun to do some checks. the difference between the coolant over flow tank and the inside of the air box wall was a astounding 62 degrees. During the warmer months the temps at the same points was the same , 218 ! Note: white/silver repeals heat while black absorabes it. Those who wrap or paint their car hoods black are making a big mistake due to the sun raising temps ! Here in S. FL during the summer the black painted car parts will almost burn you as I found out years ago.
The inlet tube to the TB is a big heat absorber and needs wrapping which is almost impossible with the OEM flexible accordion item. This tube is subject to the hot air coming thru the radiator !
Try some black electrial tape to cover the top ends of heat shield at the overflow tank/air box.
 

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Wifey and I went to look at houses today, it was pretty cold out 45 degrees out my intake temp was at 48 without any insulation added. I think the open heat extractor is working well for me.
 

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I wonder if just placing a larger diameter tube over the existing intake tube will create enough of a thermal break between the two surfaces such that the intake tube won't absorb as much heat while the engine is running. It wouldn't have to be much larger, just create a small gap.

There's also pipe wrap insulation that could be wrapped around it. Then wrap it with some black flexible wrap to cover the silver.

Or, wrap the airbox in Dynaliner. It comes in ⅛, ¼. or ½ inch thicknesses and is self adhesive.
 

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Another thing the OP may want to consider is that on his '19 Scat Pack, the hood scoop is open to the engine bay. If he wants to prevent water and dust/dirt finding its way on top of his engine, then he will probably want to opt for the T/A Cold Air kit so it closes it off.....or construct his own underhood ducting. That is the project I am about to tackle for my incoming 1320.
 
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