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this seems to be the only 6.1 forum so I figured I wohld try here first...my apologies if I have the wrong forum and will try others if noone here has an answer anyway here goes...purchased a certified used Challenger froma Dealer about 35 mi away from my house...less than 70000 mi on it...a 2010 SRT8 6mos ago.Purchased an extended warranty as well(just in case talking to adjusters in advance it dosnt cover exhaust system parts)..check engine lite comes on...wife took it to the dealer 2 mi from her work, diagnosed it as a lean condition flipping the sensor on from a cracked manifold where, the donut would be...these dont have one... the only fix here is to replace the header according to dealer...I have thought of an alternative since it costs $800 each side for just the manifold not including other minor parts and labor...the alternative is rather drastic...welding the pieces together and might be too close for a welder to get to, I dont know...any thoughts/comments??

did do a search to no avail
 

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would your aftermarket warranty fix it? I would check see. if not look into aftermarket and see if there are a cheaper one out there. best luck
 

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Discussion Starter #4
extended warranty specifically excludes exhaust components
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Plenty of SRT manifolds for sale, probably find a pair for $100 if you look around. I would venture 1-1/2 to 2 hours labor tops to change the cracked one out.
interesting very interesting...the only thing I would worry about is are they CALIFORNIA legal...stupid Ca with the CARB they would have to pass Ca smog requirements but tks joe I like your idea ;)
 

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this seems to be the only 6.1 forum so I figured I wohld try here first...my apologies if I have the wrong forum and will try others if noone here has an answer anyway here goes...purchased a certified used Challenger froma Dealer about 35 mi away from my house...less than 70000 mi on it...a 2010 SRT8 6mos ago.Purchased an extended warranty as well(just in case talking to adjusters in advance it dosnt cover exhaust system parts)..check engine lite comes on...wife took it to the dealer 2 mi from her work, diagnosed it as a lean condition flipping the sensor on from a cracked manifold where, the donut would be...these dont have one... the only fix here is to replace the header according to dealer...I have thought of an alternative since it costs $800 each side for just the manifold not including other minor parts and labor...the alternative is rather drastic...welding the pieces together and might be too close for a welder to get to, I dont know...any thoughts/comments??

did do a search to no avail
Have a regular mechanic take the manifold off. Take it to a welding shop. They are fixable as they are like factory shortie headers and not made of cast iron. They can be repaired regardless of what is wrong. You just got to get a good welder to do it.

-John
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Have a regular mechanic take the manifold off. Take it to a welding shop. They are fixable as they are like factory shortie headers and not made of cast iron. They can be repaired regardless of what is wrong. You just got to get a good welder to do it.

-John
I LIKEEEE! infact I posted somewhere a fix I thought of abt just welding them in place but said that's way drastic...I like your fix better tks John
 

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interesting very interesting...the only thing I would worry about is are they CALIFORNIA legal...stupid Ca with the CARB they would have to pass Ca smog requirements but tks joe I like your idea ;)
Yes they would since they are original equipment off another SRT.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yes they would since they are original equipment off another SRT.
looks like I'll be looking for a nice set of used headers...in the mean time the mech @ the dealer said that they are actually croded how ever you spell that word and it might be possible to lower the exhaust system from the manifolds and polish it...hopefully... what do you think of this idea???
 

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looks like I'll be looking for a nice set of used headers...in the mean time the mech @ the dealer said that they are actually croded how ever you spell that word and it might be possible to lower the exhaust system from the manifolds and polish it...hopefully... what do you think of this idea???
It's tight under there, I think they have to remove the motor mounts to even remove them. The SRT manifolds are actually shorty headers so if you are worried about the CARB I would get a set of them, clean them up and ceramic coat them.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It's tight under there, I think they have to remove the motor mounts to even remove them. The SRT manifolds are actually shorty headers so if you are worried about the CARB I would get a set of them, clean them up and ceramic coat them.
yeah I need a set that will pass Ca smog which means ty gotta be CARB legal(BOOOOO) and am worried that a used pair might have flange probs and I'm back to square 1 dosnt seem to be anyone that sells CARB legal headers for this car...5.7 yes 6.1 no
 

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Corrosion? Balony! The header pipes are stainless steel. The cylinder head mounting flange and converter ball flange are cast steel a 1/2" thick. Surface rust on the flanges means NOTHING! Take them off, have it welded, Car back on the road.

-John
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Corrosion? Balony! The header pipes are stainless steel. The cylinder head mounting flange and converter ball flange are cast steel a 1/2" thick. Surface rust on the flanges means NOTHING! Take them off, have it welded, Car back on the road.

-John
that's what I get from messing with a dealer John, first its cracked then its corrosion to quote them theres a leak somewhere around converter flange they say they did a pressure test...how the hell yo do that?run hi pressure up the tail pipe?? said they used some kind of sealant yesterday something on INSIDE, said they dropped it at that flange point, put it back together and checked it for engine codes, none...took it home drove it 40 miles enigne lite AGAIN...currently its back @ dealer for ANOTHER code check AND whatever kind of bullS*** they try...but you do make sense John...cant stainless corrode?
 

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that's what I get from messing with a dealer John, first its cracked then its corrosion to quote them theres a leak somewhere around converter flange they say they did a pressure test...how the hell yo do that?run hi pressure up the tail pipe?? said they used some kind of sealant yesterday something on INSIDE, said they dropped it at that flange point, put it back together and checked it for engine codes, none...took it home drove it 40 miles enigne lite AGAIN...currently its back @ dealer for ANOTHER code check AND whatever kind of bullS*** they try...but you do make sense John...cant stainless corrode?
The only 2 kinds of stainless used on exhaust systems (Heat Cycle Issues) are 409 and 304. The 409 type is not pure stainless and is mixed with mild steel to shape easier on dies. The 304 is used on the factory exhaust. The brownish color on the tubes is not rust, but patina, much like the copper roof on a capital dome turning green. Under high engine load, that color brown will almost glow soft red. Ever see an engine on a dyno being pushed at full load against a water brake? Impressive! But anyway.... I think (me) you should stop screwing around with the dealer and get it to a real motorhead shop and get it fixed by people who know how to actually FIX things.

-John
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The only 2 kinds of stainless used on exhaust systems (Heat Cycle Issues) are 409 and 304. The 409 type is not pure stainless and is mixed with mild steel to shape easier on dies. The 304 is used on the factory exhaust. The brownish color on the tubes is not rust, but patina, much like the copper roof on a capital dome turning green. Under high engine load, that color brown will almost glow soft red. Ever see an engine on a dyno being pushed at full load against a water brake? Impressive! But anyway.... I think (me) you should stop screwing around with the dealer and get it to a real motorhead shop and get it fixed by people who know how to actually FIX things.

-John
I agree my only prob is I am so isolated and been away from any real mopar community that I do not know ANYONE that I could take it to...if this had been 30 yrs ago it would have been no problem, but time and distance has isolated me...
 

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Did you do the 'key cycle' trick to get the CEL codes yourself or are you relying the the 'Stealer' telling you what the code is?

JMO here, but most often when the car seems to be running fine but you have a Check Engine Light, the CEL is from:

1. Loose gascap
2. Bad O2 sensor
3. A real Evap system system fault
4. Random misfire

If the jackwagon Stealer is telling you a 'lean' condition, my thought is you have a failed O2 sensor.

Did you take a quick run down to AutoZone or Advance Auto? Those places will put a code reader on your car for free and tell you what the results are.
They are hoping you'll buy the parts from them to do the repair yourself.

As previously stated, run like the wind from the dipstick you've been dealing with.
Get a reputable place to give you the actual code (ex. P0130, P0305 etc). Once you have the code you can google it to see what the problem could be, or better yet come back here and share it with us before you start throwing money at new exhaust manifolds.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Did you do the 'key cycle' trick to get the CEL codes yourself or are you relying the the 'Stealer' telling you what the code is?

JMO here, but most often when the car seems to be running fine but you have a Check Engine Light, the CEL is from:

1. Loose gascap
2. Bad O2 sensor
3. A real Evap system system fault
4. Random misfire

If the jackwagon Stealer is telling you a 'lean' condition, my thought is you have a failed O2 sensor.

Did you take a quick run down to AutoZone or Advance Auto? Those places will put a code reader on your car for free and tell you what the results are.
They are hoping you'll buy the parts from them to do the repair yourself.

As previously stated, run like the wind from the dipstick you've been dealing with.
Get a reputable place to give you the actual code (ex. P0130, P0305 etc). Once you have the code you can google it to see what the problem could be, or better yet come back here and share it with us before you start throwing money at new exhaust manifolds.
because I purchased an extended warranty I took it to a stealer and is why I have up until his point have been relying on him...that's THE only reason went there in it first place as soon as they are done with it today it will leave never to return...I will get the codes from one of the parts places and post them here...P.S. don't know the key cycle trick
 

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Discussion Starter #20
BTW does anyone know of a reputable motor shop in the Sacramento Ca area???
 
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