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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
First let me say, that even though this is being done with a Magnum, it also applies to the Challenger and will work with our Challenger shaker scoop and hood. After many years of promising that ONE DAY... I would come out with a V6 shaker, I'm finally gonna make good on my promise. What you see here is a local costumer's SXT 3.5L V6 Magnum. We are custom installing the shaker on his car and in the mean time, we will be making some new shaker base moulds so we can offer this same product to the masses. It will have a FULL sealed system, but it will be internally mounted, so the air box will be completely discarded. Anybody who is interested in this product, please let me know and I'll get your name on the list!! This should be available VERY soon as I have a hard deadline to get this done quickly and he needs his car back. Enjoy the pics!!



 

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Discussion Starter #2
Before I can design the shaker pieces under the hood,I need a shaker hood with a hole in it so I might as well get this out of the way.
People always seem nervous about this step and I always tell them, this is the easiest part of the job and if you are gonna take it to the body shop to have this done, do yourself a favor and cut the hole first yourself to save money as the body shop overcharges for this since it appears difficult...You are now gonna see just how easy it is to do one of these shaker hoods. This is my fifth one. First you take off the hood

Then I put lots of tape on the hood to protect the paint and centered the pattern on the hood...pretty easy so far.

Next step would be to draw a dark line where to cut with a pen and then put another layer of 2" masking tape over the hood and retrace the cut line (you can see the dark line under the tape)

Here goes the first hole! no too hard to do!

And finally, I just cut out the hole with my cheapy jig saw and a 4 1/2" blade. I'd recommend a longer blade if you can find one, but this one barely was long enough and it worked pretty well. Tilting the blade about 15 degrees like you see here is REAL important, the hole on the bottom of the hood is basically larger than the hole on the top so the hood brace will go on easily.


Now, to find out how I did... the only damage to the paint was in the front on the hood ridges that stick up. Good thing that the chips in the paint are well within my 2" zone that will be completely covered up with the trim ring...

The hood brace is pre grinded and actually went all the way down and just dropped right in with not even any work to clean up the hole. and there was no side to side movement and no question exactly where it goes!!! A few minutes of screwing the 16 self tapping screws in the marked locations and we are just about done!

Next I put the insulation back in place and marked it about 1/2" inboard of the hood brace and got my big sissors and chopped out the center.

In go the 2 insulation pieces with the factory plastic retainers and we are done on the bottom!!

For now, I just temporarily stuck the trim ring on with double sided tape. Once it gets painted, I will install it properly with 3M tape and some adhesive underneath. It's a perfect fit as unsual and sits right onto the hood brace flange.

Now to get the hood back on!


Notice the Holley High performance air filter peeking through the scoops. this is what we will use on the inside so the factory airbox will not be needed.


Stay tuned for some more updates as I fly through this project. Got plenty of projects going on right now so I got to get this one done quick and get his car back to him!
 

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Thats awsome!Thanks for the detail and pics!Im sure our 3.5 challenger members will be happy!Great job!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Updates: Today I spent a lot of time getting the shaker centered and sitting just right so I can start on the mounts.


Here is a pic of the 2 front mount. The 2 rear ones are a bit more tricky and will take a little longer to figure out.

Now I'm to the point that I can start shaping the inside of the shaker base to flow with the lines of the engine. There will be a large removable cover (hole on the right) to access the oil filler lid.

Stay tuned for more updates!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
This shaker version will be sold in 2 stages:

1) non functional (besides of course: A) Acting as a Heat Extractor B) Cooling the exhaust like the SRT hood does. C) Being able to see your engine shake!)

2) All of those "important" benefits of stage 1 along with a FULLY Sealed RAM AIR with a high flow Holly filter that is designed for a V8 and mounted INSIDE the scoop, leaving the spot for your air box open for a supercharger !
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Now for the daily update :D I gotta tell ya, I spent an entire day Just looking at this darn engine trying to figure out a resonable way to make rear mounts to the shaker....After many long hours, I established that there are no good places to mount directly to the shaker hense I will need to make a sub-mounting platform to mount the rear shaker mounts!!! so after all this work, here is what I came up with... The 2 mounts fasten under the rear intake lid bolts, and then the 3"x8" aluminum platform bolts up to those. Tomarrow I'll install the 2 rear shaker mounts onto the platform and it will be more clear where I'm going with this...Stay tuned for more updates!!



 

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Discussion Starter #10
Here is a picture of the rear shaker mounts in their final resting place after wandering under the hood for days...




My Air Tubing hardware finally came in today and I am NOT happy where the hoses land..right in the middle of the stupid sensor mounted on top of that cover, and right ontop of the dang oil filler cap... No worries...cant move the sensor so I just ordered (overnight delivery) some new hardware to try to alleviate this situation. Anyway, you can now check out the mega cool Old School Holly High Flow air filter that I will use inside the shaker! Dont worry, a full water management system will be in place to take care of the water.



Finally, I was able to plant all 4 Shaker mounts receivers into the shaker base so you can see where the mounts will end up. This shaker is now officially mounted!! all that is left to do is to finalize the shape of the inside of the shaker to accept the air filter and air hoses and water system. Stay tuned for some more pics on this fast moving project!!


 

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Discussion Starter #11
Bottom shaker unit is all done so now we are ready to install the shaker and work on the design of the sealed system.
Before the trim ring was painted, I had to sand off a few bumps on the bottom to make sure it sits perfectly flush against the hood . Once the trim ring is centered, I put some tape around the edge to mark the exact location.

Next the fiberglass mounting flange needs scuffed with 40 grit and the paint with red scotchbrite up to 1/4" from the edge. We will use 1/4" 3M double sided tape around the edge.

As always, always clean surfaces with mineral spirits and let dry before applying adhesive.

Next we need to glue the hood skin to the hood brace. The best adhesive I've found is PL Premium from Home Depot. It sticks like superglue and foams up slightly as it cures. I actually needed 1 1/2 tubes to fill the larger gaps.
Once
the gap is filled, take a sweegy and very carefully scoop off the excess without pushing down on the floppy hood. Also, clean the excess glue off the hood and brace with a rag and mineral spirits. Don't forget to remove the tape and clean real well any residue. The glue must be left overnight to dry so stay tuned for more updates!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
OK so now we are ready to bond on the trim ring. The first step is to put it all together and adjust the position of the shaker and trim ring until you are satisfied, then mark the position with tape.

Now, prep the bonding areas by sanding the fiberglass with 40 grit and the paint with red scotch brite again (dont get too close to the marked tape edge!) to remove any residue from the PL premium. If there are large bumps of PL sticking up, you can trim them down a razor knife but mine came out pretty smooth.

Next, flip your trim ring over on a soft surface and clean the edge with mineral spirits. I've found that 3M double sided tape sticks way better to painted surfaces, so if it didn't get paint on the bottom, I always carefully spray some black paint on it first before installing the tape.

Always start from the center rear side and when you get back to the finish, overlay them and cut both together with one razor slice to get a perfect matched joint. Don't forget to peel and bend back a little of the red tape on both sides AFTER you scuff and clean the bottom of the trim ring.

You will have areas where the tape is wrinkling up and wont lay flat due to the curve, so just cut off and remove those wrinkles. If you don't, it could keep the ring from laying flat on the hood.

Here you can see we have applied the adhesive sparingly. I'm using this 3M 2-part epoxy product because it hardens in an hour. It's about $40/kit and requires a $50 gun. If you want to save some money, I recommend 3M 5200, which is a 1-part urethane adhesive, uses a standard caulking gun and you can buy at Home Depot for about $10/tube. The 5200 is also made especially for marine use/bonding fiberglass . The main drawbacks are that it takes 1-2 days to dry depending on the temperature and is white.
If you get glue on the car in the wrong place, you can clean off the 08115 with acetone and a rag and the 5200 with mineral spirits. Neither should damage your car paint, but always try it on a small test area first!


Once you get the trim ring lined up perfectly, you can pull out the red tape and press it down. Notice I laid some paper over the motor - it was a good idea as you can see!

You should not rely on the tape to hold it down, I use spring clamps and a 6" C-clamp in the front. Make sure to adequately protect the paint with tape, wood etc. It's also a good idea to look underneath and caulk extra glue in if you see gaps that are not joined. this is the step that seals the moisture from getting inside your aluminum hood so do a good job. You can alway take the hood off later and touch it up with bondo/paint, etc., to make it look even nicer on the bottom.


Once the glue is dry, you can now remove all the tape and paper and enjoy the final look! Next we will move on to designing the sealed system so stay tuned !
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Now that I'm done with the basic shaker installation, it's time to make this baby functional!
Here you can see the Holley filter base in place and the hole cut. Once the exact positon of the piping that goes to the throttle body was set, it's time to pour the foam.


First, It's necessary to mask off the engine with a garbage back and tape with only the 3" aluminum pipe peeking through. the foam will be joined to the pipe. Once the shaker was bolted back in place, I poured the foam into the hole~



Next, I removed the shaker and cleaned off all the tape,bag and trash and sculpted the shape I want for the lower air manifold. The correct design is crucial for proper airflow and moulding purposes.

Here you can see the manifold and how it comes out next to the throttle body. In the last pic, you can see the U-shaped silicone hose in place connecting them. this is how it will look when it is done - Stay tuned for more updates as this exciting project unfolds!

 

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Discussion Starter #17
Manifold is done so here are some pics of the final products. Notice the internal drain built into the manifold! (second pic)



Now it's time to install the filter base . Notice the PCV valve hose inlet that goes to the engine (little black pipe)



Holley High Performance Air Filter Mounted. The filter is held on with those wire retainers, real easy to service filter.

Here is the bottom view of the finished product. Notice the sensor installed into the air hose. This shaker actually has 4 drains instead of 3 unlike the previous version.



You can change oil without even removing the shaker lid!! Notice the PCV valve hook up




Car is done and already delivered, so stay tuned for the final pics real soon !!
 
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