You gotta take the vents out to get it right. Then you'll need a good 2 part epoxy you like. I like the loctite stuff but there's others. You'll need a steel rule or something similar needs to be fairly rigid. and a few clamps. The orange and black ones from harbor freight work pretty well get the bigger ones that have a good tight squeeze. Get the glue up in there behind where it's lifted and use a stick like a cuticle pusher to get it up towards the edges. the steel rule across right on the edge and put the clamps across it in several places to hold it in place . Clean of any excess that squeezes out and leave it for a day then remove it and reinstall the air vent. Pretty common issue on the older dash style.

 

Thank you for the advice I appreciate it.

 

Yep easy fix heres how I did mine, From an Earlier Post I did on repairing that issue. to repair my Dash like many the Heat made the Dash Pad lift around the center Vents like shown below. So mine looked identical to this kind of issue

Used a Trim Tool Removed the Vent assembly, I cleaned the area under lifted area with Rubbing Alcohol, let it dry then scuffed with 180 Grit 3m
Sand Paper Under the Foam area and then top of the Hard Plastic Dash where it lifted and cleaned with Rubbing Alcohol a 2nd time and let dry for a few minutes.

Then I applied the JB Weld Clear Weld both on the prepped surface and underside areas , Using a Popsicle Stick to put light amounts of both the Plastic and Foam, then used a wooden Fiskars Ruler some Black Plastic Spring Clamps let sit for about 7 hours remove the Clamps and popped the Vent Assembly back in and this is the Repair ...

About 4 years later still like this.

 

Yep easy fix heres how I did mine, From an Earlier Post I did on repairing that issue. to repair my Dash like many the Heat made the Dash Pad lift around the center Vents like shown below. So mine looked identical to this kind of issue

Used a Trim Tool Removed the Vent assembly, I cleaned the area under lifted area with Rubbing Alcohol, let it dry then scuffed with 180 Grit 3m
Sand Paper Under the Foam area and then top of the Hard Plastic Dash where it lifted and cleaned with Rubbing Alcohol a 2nd time and let dry for a few minutes.

Then I applied the JB Weld Clear Weld both on the prepped surface and underside areas , Using a Popsicle Stick to put light amounts of both the Plastic and Foam, then used a wooden Fiskars Ruler some Black Plastic Spring Clamps let sit for about 7 hours remove the Clamps and popped the Vent Assembly back in and this is the Repair ...

About 4 years later still like this.
View attachment 398750

Thank you I followed your advise and used the JB weld clear. I sanded it top and bottom blew out what I could and applied the JB Weld with a shorty paint brush and used a stiff wooden ruler and 4 black spring clamps. I clamped it 11am how long should I leave it clamped. I took a good look after clamping and the seam looks really straight. I noticed the foam rubber around the inside of the vent assembly just rotted away and broke off. I don't think it's going to make a big deal but I can always look for another vent assembly. Thanks again to all who gave me advice.

 

Thank you that sounds like an easy repair and I will try it. One person from another site said you could use contact cement also but it would take two coats and in between coats let it dry a little for 15 minutes.

 

The Dap Repair Sucks less than 2 months it comes up just use the JB Weld Clear Weld....
I've repaired 5 other Challengers with the JB Weld for others works perfectly!!!

 

I did this repair on our 2010 but I used Gorilla glue. Been good for a year.

 

JB Weld Clear will hold up better and more durable since its Marine Grade.

 

Had the same thing happen on my 2010 Challenger remove the vent and used Gorilla Glue with some masking tape and tucked it up in there and held it until it got tacky dry let it sit in the Sun for a few hours pop the vent right back in to this day is very good looking

 

Mine Stayed Clamped over Night about 7 Hours so id say between 7 to 10 Hours.

 

I looked at the center vent assembly to see how much it would be because the crappy foam around the back of the assembly just crumbled in my hands. OEM from Dodge $246.00 bucks. I didn't buy it but was looking at one for half that price but haven't pulled the trigger yet.
What do you guys think, is it easier to repair the foam or just look for a good deal for a new one.

2008-2014 Dodge Challenger Air Outlet, Center 1QL37XDVAA | Mopar OEM Parts Outlet https://share.google/VBt5fToL5aqwN6QXv

 

Look on Ebay, or remove the Foam and Clean and by new Foam Tape and Trim and like new...

Storystore Foam Insulation Tape Self Adhesive, 1/2In x 1/4In x 33Ft Weather Stripping for Doors and Windows, Sound Proof Soundproofing Door Seal, Weatherstrip, Air Conditioning Seal Strip - Amazon.com

Storystore Foam Insulation Tape Self Adhesive, 1/2In x 1/4In x 33Ft Weather Stripping for Doors and Windows, Sound Proof Soundproofing Door Seal, Weatherstrip, Air Conditioning Seal Strip - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

Kikerike Self Adhesive Foam Tape Weatherstrip 1/2In x 1/4In x 16.5Ft High Density Foam Insulation Strips Seal Weather Stripping with Strong Adhesive for Door and Window Sound Isolation Soundproofing - Amazon.com

Kikerike Self Adhesive Foam Tape Weatherstrip 1/2In x 1/4In x 16.5Ft High Density Foam Insulation Strips Seal Weather Stripping with Strong Adhesive for Door and Window Sound Isolation Soundproofing - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

 

Thank you for the ideas.