Discussion Starter · #1 ·
In Drag racing, Does the 60 FT timer start when your car moves or when the green light comes on the tree ?
thanks for the info brother on this post and previous one with torque converter. I was actually thinking of getting 3200 from FTI but i really need to understand my car, i really need practice getting more power on the ground instead of spinning.Correct. R/T starts once the green light comes on. The rest of the data on your timeslip is derived from your car moving down the track.
Leaving on the third yellow will get you a decent reaction time and you can fine tune it from there with practice.
Getting a great 60ft time is the key to a great ET. The faster you get out of the hole the better your ET will be. I've seen super high hp cars running low 13's and high 12's going 115-120 mph and then cars like my old Nova with way less hp running low/mid 12's going 105-110 mph. My point being, some cars making less power are killing the higher hp cars simply because they can put their power to the ground and the other guys are just spinning.
ET = traction/launch/shifting
MPH = power
When you get your launch right, you shift right, you have traction, and your engine is making great power and running right, you get a great ET and MPH which is what you want.
When you are ready for a trans and converter, I will get you hooked up with Bill from paramount. Great guy with a great product.thanks for the info brother on this post and previous one with torque converter. I was actually thinking of getting 3200 from FTI but i really need to understand my car, i really need practice getting more power on the ground instead of spinning.
If he plans on the track The rear conversion preferably a Paramount 8.8 and Drag Radials or slicks are the first things he should do As Phil said in a different thread. Its senseless to go with a converter and put all that power on one wheel if the rear is open ended.Have you gone to the track yet? Made any passes yet? I'm guessing with your current tires you aren't hooking up any good. If you heat them up with a good long burnout they might hook a little better. My drag radials spin off the line when cold or on the street, but with a prepped track surface and after a nice burnout to get them hot they hook and go off the line.
Before you spend more money on a trans/converter I would get yourself a set of 17" rims and some real slicks. Mount those on the back and see how you do at the track. Once you get the hang of that and get your ET's down and consistent then it'd be neat to upgrade the trans/converter and see how much more ET you can drop from there.
I know autos are easier on the driveline than sticks are but you might want to look into getting stronger half shafts too if you're going to get the car to hook and go with a higher stall speed converter.
Without hooking up and having some solid baseline ET/MPH data to work with upgrading the trans and converter will be fun, but it won't necessarily translate into a faster car if you can't put any of that power to the ground.
I raced a few guys years ago on the street that had wicked cars with blower and all they did was spin when the light turned green. I took off and left them in the dust and I probably had 200hp less than they did.
I think the popular combo on here is Cobra replica wheels or the Weld RTS rims on 17" diameter with M&H slicks. Some of the other more experienced guys can probably help you there. I race my Nova more than my Challenger, just took the Challenger a few times to get some numbers and see how it went.
But that's where I would start, get some dedicated rims and slicks for the track, make some passes, get some seat time with the car, practice launching, get your 60ft time down, and once you get consistent with that, look into getting a new converter like you mentioned (FTI 3200, etc). Get the power you have currently to the ground, then work from there.
Even if he does they are junk, they will not hold up to powerOh ok I thought he had a posi rear end.
I would say around 500 WHP for an auto and maybe that might be too lofty and probably lower with aWhat's the hp threshold on the stock Getrag? I'm assuming you might have crossed it and had to upgrade at some point with your old car.
From article listed in the link below:What's the hp threshold on the stock Getrag? I'm assuming you might have crossed it and had to upgrade at some point with your old car.
Sticks are definitely harder on driveline parts than autos. I know with older Chevy's guys would upgrade their stock GM 10 bolt rear ends to 12 bolts, and if that wasn't good enough they'd swap in a Ford 9" rear end. I just upgraded the axles on my stock 10 bolt rear end and so far it's holding up just fine, but I'm only putting 360-370hp to the wheels vs you guys putting 500hp to the wheels and having the extra weight to move too.
How much are those Paramount 8.8 rear ends, like the complete upgrade/swap? You mentioned above something like $3K?
More like $5,000 plus, pricey but high quality. Personally I think I'd just get a slightly used 226mm getrag and update the clutches unless you were going to make a ton of power.How much are those Paramount 8.8 rear ends, like the complete upgrade/swap? You mentioned above something like $3K?
More like $5,000 plus, pricey but high quality.