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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Not sure if anyone else has had this issue but here goes... 2012 Challenger RT, v8, 5.7L with 78,000 miles. Automatic transmission.

The drive shaft disconnected from the output shaft. Not sure how it happened since I don’t take it out to the track. I do normal Challenger wear and tear (a few burn outs to impress a date, flooring the accelerator to get up to freeway speed, etc). Thankfully the DS went out on a surface street and was able to get out of harms way easily.

When it occurred: I had turned right onto a street and then I pressed the accelerator and the engine just revved. I pulled over, shifted into park, then back into drive and same thing: revving without accelerating. Same thing in reverse Then had it towed to a mechanic. The kicker was that I had to wait EIGHT working days for the part to arrive. I called another mechanic shop to confirm price (same price) and they also confirmed an eight day lead time. The mechanic had to replace the drive shaft (Mopar) and flange for $1300 in parts and labor.

I didn’t find anything online about there being a recall or this being a common issue with Challengers. Everyone I spoke to were just as confused as I was when I told them what happened.
 

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2015 R/T 5.7L A8
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Not sure the year they went to the 8 bolt drive shaft setup but the earlier years before that were notorious for breaking the driveshaft connecting bolts, I know my 2015 has the 8 bolt setup, that may have been what it was? Earlier years had a 3 bolt setup and then went to a 5 bolt setup and then to the 8 bolt setup.

Now there are also universal joints involved in the drive train as well a lot more than you may realize especially with the 2 part drive shaft setup, which has 4 and the axle shafts have 4 as well.

Since you had to replace the entire drive shaft they should have at least fully explained exactly what happened, I find that a little odd? Ry
 

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I've got a 2010 auto. Even before the blower,if I tromped on it too hard, it would go into limp mode. Same symptoms. Car would rev only. All I did was turn it off and restart it. Did you see a physical separation? You didn't mention shutting it off and restarting it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Not sure the year they went to the 8 bolt drive shaft setup but the earlier years before that were notorious for breaking the driveshaft connecting bolts, I know my 2015 has the 8 bolt setup, that may have been what it was? Earlier years had a 3 bolt setup and then went to a 5 bolt setup and then to the 8 bolt setup.

Now there are also universal joints involved in the drive train as well a lot more than you may realize especially with the 2 part drive shaft setup, which has 4 and the axle shafts have 4 as well.

Since you had to replace the entire drive shaft they should have at least fully explained exactly what happened, I find that a little odd? Ry
Oh, so that makes sense if the 8 bolt DS was notorious for breaking. I was real confused because I've never dealt with something like this and I've been driving for 25+ years.

Well, the thing is, I was far from a dealership so I couldn't take it there. And I had to rely on a friends recommendation and Yelp to find a mechanic shop. The auto shop manager said, "hard to say what happened, but looks like a bolt/nut/something got lose and over time it just popped out." Who knows? It's driving fine now, so we'll see how it holds up.

I appreciate your expertise here and now I know about the 8 bolt setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I've got a 2010 auto. Even before the blower,if I tromped on it too hard, it would go into limp mode. Same symptoms. Car would rev only. All I did was turn it off and restart it. Did you see a physical separation? You didn't mention shutting it off and restarting it.
I didn't physically see the separation. However, I did shut the Challenger off, wait a few seconds, and then turned it on again. Still had the same thing of revving in R and D. One more thing to know is that when I shifted it into park, there was a grinding sound. When I shifted out of P, there was no grinding. Only shifting INTO. There was also no grinding when I went into R, N, or D. I could move "freely" between the gears but nothing seemed to click it into gear. It's running fine now so we'll see how it holds up.

Thank you for replying.
 

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Ouch. Sorry you had to go through that. I'm glad it worked out OK. What is it about the electronics doing things to protect the vehicle that prevent you from having too much fun? I thought I broke it a couple times:ROFLMAO:
 

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2015 R/T 5.7L A8
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Oh, so that makes sense if the 8 bolt DS was notorious for breaking.
I guess you misunderstood I have not even heard of an 8 bolt driveshaft linkage breaking, the Dodge Demon has ripped the entire rear universal out at the drag strip and the 8 bolt was still connected. It was the earlier 3 bolt and 5 bolt setups that failed not the 8 bolt, and most of those failures were at the drag strip running slicks.
 

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Not sure if anyone else has had this issue but here goes... 2012 Challenger RT, v8, 5.7L with 78,000 miles. Automatic transmission.

The drive shaft disconnected from the output shaft. Not sure how it happened since I don’t take it out to the track. I do normal Challenger wear and tear (a few burn outs to impress a date, flooring the accelerator to get up to freeway speed, etc). Thankfully the DS went out on a surface street and was able to get out of harms way easily.

When it occurred: I had turned right onto a street and then I pressed the accelerator and the engine just revved. I pulled over, shifted into park, then back into drive and same thing: revving without accelerating. Same thing in reverse Then had it towed to a mechanic. The kicker was that I had to wait EIGHT working days for the part to arrive. I called another mechanic shop to confirm price (same price) and they also confirmed an eight day lead time. The mechanic had to replace the drive shaft (Mopar) and flange for $1300 in parts and labor.

I didn’t find anything online about there being a recall or this being a common issue with Challengers. Everyone I spoke to were just as confused as I was when I told them what happened.
Hey, PopTheCork. If you'd like, our team would be happy to look in to this further with you. To start, please send us a private message.

Kate
DodgeCares
 

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I didn't physically see the separation. However, I did shut the Challenger off, wait a few seconds, and then turned it on again. Still had the same thing of revving in R and D. One more thing to know is that when I shifted it into park, there was a grinding sound. When I shifted out of P, there was no grinding. Only shifting INTO. There was also no grinding when I went into R, N, or D. I could move "freely" between the gears but nothing seemed to click it into gear. It's running fine now so we'll see how it holds up.

Thank you for replying.
The grinding going into park was because the transmission out put shaft was still spinning because of the disconnect between the stopped tires. Ever put a auto car into park before it was completely stopped? That’s what you heard, GRrrrrrrrrr clunk
 

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I didn't physically see the separation. However, I did shut the Challenger off, wait a few seconds, and then turned it on again. Still had the same thing of revving in R and D. One more thing to know is that when I shifted it into park, there was a grinding sound. When I shifted out of P, there was no grinding. Only shifting INTO. There was also no grinding when I went into R, N, or D. I could move "freely" between the gears but nothing seemed to click it into gear. It's running fine now so we'll see how it holds up.

Thank you for replying.
The grinding going into park was because the transmission out put shaft was still spinning because of the disconnect between the stopped tires. Ever put a auto car into park before it was completely stopped? That’s what you heard, GRrrrrrrrrr clunk
 

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Registered
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147 Posts
I didn't physically see the separation. However, I did shut the Challenger off, wait a few seconds, and then turned it on again. Still had the same thing of revving in R and D. One more thing to know is that when I shifted it into park, there was a grinding sound. When I shifted out of P, there was no grinding. Only shifting INTO. There was also no grinding when I went into R, N, or D. I could move "freely" between the gears but nothing seemed to click it into gear. It's running fine now so we'll see how it holds up.

Thank you for replying.
The grinding going into park was because the transmission out put shaft was still spinning because of the disconnect between the stopped tires. Ever put a auto car into park before it was completely stopped? That’s what you heard, GRrrrrrrrrr clunk
 
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