Dodge Challenger Forum banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm looking at starting a new project next year and want to do an E body, specifically a Cuda. Looking at even body in white projects the Dynacorn seems like a viable alternative, though I know they have had quality issues in years past. The 70 shell won't be available until sometime next year, which gives me more time to think about this. Another reason for wanting to go this route is I know how both B and E bodies were treated back in the day; I'd say cabs and rentals cars were shown more love, and there could be tons of hidden issues with an original car, if you can find one for under the $16,000 - $17,000 asking price for the repop (price is a guestimate from their other available shells). I have limited body skills and zero welding experience.

The other area that gives me pause is parts sticker shock; just for some basics parts (glass, suspension, complete front clip with all brackets and mounts, hood and hardware, handles, kmember etc) is just south of $10,000, and this is by no means a complete list as there are probably a ton of small parts/brackets/clips/hardware and hard parts I don't know about yet, plus steering, wheels/tires and driveline, trim, interior, etc. I could get a new SRT for less than total cost of this project, but I'm tired of seeing them at every light now; where I live I have seen exactly zero B or E bodies of any year. Bonus would be that I built it. And, regardless of which motor or model I choose to emulate (going for more of a cross between a 71 Cuda and 70 Charger resto mod; classic style and power with modern safety/handling) it will still be a lot cheaper than buying nice original 383 or bigger, if you can find a nice one. I also cringe at the thought of cutting up a nice original, since they are so rare now.

I'm looking at stabbing in either a 340 or 383 with a modern 6 speed and (eventually) rear end out of a new Challenger (going with full Hotckis for now with a stock style rear axle), 4 wheel SSBC conversion, along with more supportive seats, though I like the more stock look, so no fancy leather, metal or other non OEM looking bling. Car will be black on black.

Any thoughts on the shell choices? Again, for my experience level, the Dynacorn seems like the best choice.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
470 Posts
I will throw my 2 cents in , I own a 71 coda 70 challenger, and a 2012 challenger, the biggest difference to me is the handling and the transmission.

The old torsion bar set up is pretty good and that design keeps the suspension parts lower, with the new coilover set up it requires you to mod the inner fender/shock tower to accept the coilover .

I think since the car was designed for torsion bars I would stick with that the work just fine, but again just my opinion.

The engine from the new ones by far are a much better along with a 5 speed auto or a 6 speed standard.

Parts for the old ones are getting scarce but there are plenty of repops for lots of money ,I have had the old ones for 25 years so over the years I have found 2 gurus that are good friends now that I use for parts and info.

And you are right the cost of doing a resto on an old one now is brain damage, yep pretty much more than the cost of a new srt8 and beyond depending on how bad the car is , and there are not that many solid cars left to do a resto most I have seen have gone by the way of the tin worm.

So yea a dynacorn chassis/body kit would be worth it, but you will spend alot of cash either way , but the dynacorn unit is a nice clean unit to start, but add another 20 k atleast to install drivetrain, suspension and interior , you will also nee hood trunk, and doors and other misc. body parts.

If I had to do it all over again I would strongly consider a new drive train in an old body and go out and have a fun time,my old cars are not numbers matching ,and on the cuda all of the body panels were replaced except for the roof and doors due to rust, so the car is far from original.


You have alot to consider good luck and most of all have fun with what ever you decide to do and make it yours :smileup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Dynacorn includes doors and trunk lid with their shells. Thanks for the inside info; due to the heavy fab required for aftermarket or modified systems I'll stick with the stock style (just highly upgraded) suspension for now. Considering how many non-stock suspended Stangs are out there (which requires a lot of fab, as well) and the cool factor associated with them, I like the idea of at least having that IRS out of a new one. Keeping with a smaller, lighter motor will help.

As for cost; depending on which motor I choose (Mopars, as you know, are crazy expensive crate options - up to $20,000 for the beefier, race prepped Elephants; may start looking for a good 360 to have machined), tranny ($1428 for a TKO conversion from American Powertrain) and all the other bits and bobs I could still be under the $41,000 asking price for a new SRT (def. under the near $50,000 for a lightly optioned 392). All in all this is starting to look viable.

New cars may be safe and reliable, but are really boring; plus, I'm tired of trying to get a handle on all the new tech, and guessing if a bolt is SAE or metric, and want something that I only need to have a box loaded with a few standard tools to fix in a weekend. And FL seems to be very easy to regster a custom car in.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
470 Posts
New cars may be safe and reliable, but are really boring; plus, I'm tired of trying to get a handle on all the new tech, and guessing if a bolt is SAE or metric, and want something that I only need to have a box loaded with a few standard tools to fix in a weekend.


aint that the truth.

I am considering building a 440 stroker kits are $2200.00 and aluminum heads are $1000.00,and other misc items one could do this for under 5k that is one option but then with the big block I am not sure there is a conversion to put the 5 speed or 6 speed behind it,so the old 3 speed torque flite is a rugged trans but not having an overdrive will net about 12 mpg.

And yes I have upgraded my old suspension tubular UCA,S , reinforced LCA,S as well as k frame, 4 wheel disc brakes , and a few other secrets that can be done for not alot of money, and it works very well, I have been a road race track rat for years with the local mustang/Shelby club,they love having us out there with the old stuff, and I have shocked alot of modern car owners by how well I can either beat them or atleast keep up with alot of them for what the car is.


Here is quick vid
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TzC4M8w_5Og&list=PL33DBE9D7ACEB38CB
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Nothing like the sound of a big block Mopar at WOT.

I don't plan on running any events, but wouldn't be above seeing what kind of numbers my combo may lay down.

One option is to stroke a new 5.7 Hemi into whatever I want, very similar to Chevy taking the LS and turning it into a 427; big HP, small size and weight. Regardless, it will be carbed. Also might find a boneyard 318 for cheap and turn it into a 340; I'm sure there are kits around, and would def. be cheaper than a real crate 340 ($10k +++). Around where I live anything over a 383 is overkill; I live in an area, near the Gulf, where there is really only one way around and it gets crazy during tourist season. Plus, a larger motor is more cash investment in every way; not just gas but also stronger components to handle it, though a "modern" 426 or 440 would be cool. With the right tranny 20+ MPG might even be possible. However, it would have to be a gen 3 stroker to keep weight down.

Just found my color code: 99L "Funeral Black" Lucite from the Chrysler line that year.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
470 Posts
Yes the modern drivetrain is the way to go I forgot to mention the fuel these days is not very good for a carburetor, so the later F/I is much more reliable.

so yea go with the modern stuff it works:smileup::smileup::smileup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Are Cuda fenders physically the same size as the Challengers? Someone on another forum was saying something about having to stretch sheet metal to get Cuda parts to fit, but thought parts were just bolt in with different mounting points that needed a new header for the grille and lights; true?oRegardless, it will be a
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
470 Posts
Are Cuda fenders physically the same size as the Challengers? Someone on another forum was saying something about having to stretch sheet metal to get Cuda parts to fit, but thought parts were just bolt in with different mounting points that needed a new header for the grille and lights; true?oRegardless, it will be a

Well the sheet metal is totally different, as far as will a cuda fender bolt on a challenger it probably would , since the engine compartments are the same but the outer sheet metal is not, and Cudas have what is called a header panel like on the new Challengers , and the old challengers the fenders and hood are the leading edges so in practice it will not work
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
548 Posts
From one who has owned my share of 70-73 Challengers, my vote would be for a modern shell. I did a rotisserie restoration on a '69 Charger and would sweat every weather event to and from car meets. If you want a car to enjoy that will not nickle and dime you a restoration project may not be the solution.

E bodies and others of this vintage have common rust issues that no amount of prep work will assure a permanent fix. The hidden areas in the frame rails is one problem area. Leaking trunk gaskets and poor window seals resulted in trunks filling with water that ran collected in the frame rails. The front cowl is another area that filled with water, due to leaves clogging the drain holes. Of course much of this depends on where the car lived.

There is a review of a Dynacorn 67 Mustang build on the web. The builder was asked about treating these areas...no can do, not accessible.

Guess the shell would have to be dipped in primer, like the originals. Too bad the primer quality was crap.
At least the Dynacon metal quality is superior to the original.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top