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Well, after months of looking around and comparing I am going to ckeck out a car tomorrow. The $4000 Cash back finally pushed me. I am doing 100% financing through my credit union, and the dealer says he can write me a check for that 4 grand. That will pay off all my credit cards. Decided on a SXT. Was really wanting an R/T, but I just cant justify the 5 grand price jump for 70hp. I dont race, and drive almost all hwy at 70-75 so the increase in mileage will help out. Found a torred SXT with the sinister sport group. Think I will make an offer, But not sure how low they will go, with them trying to get rid of them. MSRP is $29,485. Soopinions on where I should start without getting laughed out of the showroom? Is $23.5k ok to start? Also, the manufacturers rebates are seperate from the car negotiations if I am correct. Thanks for any advice.
 

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JMO....I think $23.5 is a great starting point for negotiation. All they can say is "no", and they probably will. But if you show you're a motivated buyer and plan on buying a car 'now', that gives you leverage. Whenever I've bought a new car I go in lowballing. They can laugh all they want but I make it clear that someone is getting my money for a car today and I really don't care who it is. If they want my money I have to get my price......or it's off to the next showroom. I really don't mind driving to find the deal.
 

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I feel the same way. I am hoping to walk out at 25.5 for the car, then get the rebate. He says they are aggressively pricing, and need to move these. We will see how bad they need to move them lol.
 

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"Turn on, tune in, drop out"
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Decided on a SXT. Was really wanting an R/T, but I just cant justify the 5 grand price jump for 70hp.
If 5k diff is all you think it will be then you may want to reconsider. Many people that bought the v6 end up trading up after a short period. The RT can get over 27 MPG at the speeds you drive. Good luck ! :smileup:
 

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If 5k diff is all you think it will be then you may want to reconsider. Many people that bought the v6 end up trading up after a short period. The RT can get over 27 MPG at the speeds you drive. Good luck ! :smileup:
Ditto. Don't forget the 140+ lb-ft torque difference.
 

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lowballing is the way to go! especially with the 2015's coming. keep us posted on how everything pans out, maybe even play by play :D lol good luck out there today!!
 

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It is certainly a buyers market for 2014s with the 2015s soon to hit the lots.
 

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Just to give you an idea, here is how it went when I bought my Challenger three months ago. Car is a 2014 R/T base with 6 speed. MSRP was 31, 500. I talked them down to 25,000. I also talked them into paying off everything except 1,000 dollars of my 2012 Ram. Like the others said, you can have an R/T for the price you are looking at paying for an SXT. If you want leather interior, navigation, sunroof, and all those nice amenities the SXT is probably right for you. I must say though, I drove an SXT and then an R/T and there is a difference. Good luck and we'll be waiting to hear how you come out!
 

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The mark up I think is around 6% on these cars. That would make your offer of $23,500 reasonable if you are taking the 4k cash back into account. Otherwise I don't think you can get it for that. Sometimes there are other incentives involved you don't know about also.
 

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Buy the hemi by mistake the wife will understand, 5.7 are being given away for like $27K! You'll regret not buying a V8 especially this time of the year. Good Luck.
 

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I bet they will negotiate that $4K rebate into the deal, so you won't get the cash and it will be included as your downpayment. Some additional haggleing may get you to $23-24K. But you won't see the $4K cash as part of their deal, if they come down on their price.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thats what I am trying to figure out. From what I have heard, is the 4k rebate is from Dodge and has nothing to do with the price of the car.
 

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I recently purchased a 2014 R/T Classic, 6 spd manual, w/Nav, Harmon Kardon 730N, leather, STP etc, sticker price was $39,970. I also got the $4000 off which I put against the price of the car.

I had a 2011 Charger R/T Max I was trading so instead of working on getting the price of the new car down, I worked them on my trade in price. Either or, but they seem to move more ont he trade, then the new car price. It took three trips to the sales manager but I got what I wanted for my Charger and made the deal.

Definitely go for the Hemi, you won't regret it. I'm getting 24 mpg on the highway and the cars not even broken in. And the fun factor is amazing.
 

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I'll be honest, go for the R/t

I bought an SE and I love it...but I will definitely be upgrading with in two years

Don't get me wrong, everyone here will be just as accepting no matter what you buy (Challenger of course), but sooner or later, deep down, that itch will come and you'll want more.

In the end it's all your choice and you should do what your comfortable with

[Edit]: as to the price, 30k seems way too high to me for the SXT, your 23k offer sounds good, sell you mine for that! :p
 

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The old saying is "buy cheap, buy twice". Of course you can't lose with a Challenger. My R/T with the only options of super track pack and hood to fender stripes was cheaper than most of the V-6's on the lot. It's funny to call it a "base" model as it comes with a power drivers seat and many other formerly high end options. I will pass on luxury options for performance every time so it depends what will make you happy. There was a 10k+ price gap to the base SRT at the time which my budget didn't allow for, otherwise it would have been base SRT over loaded R/T. $400 was my budget at the time too but if the SRT was $420 I would have gone for it. No regrets though, I love my R/T:smileup:
 

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I recently traded my 2011 RT Hemi for a 2014 SXT 100th anniversary edition.
Got much more car for the money. No regrets at all. The v6 has more then enough power for me. The Hemi is good if you want to race at the track, otherwise it's really overkill. I am getting 32 mpg on the highway which was much better then my RT ever did. Either way you'll be happy. One thing I learned over the years when purchasing a new car is to go right at the end of the month.They are much more willing to bend so they can make their monthly quota. Good Luck, and remember buy what makes you happy.
 

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I don't think your starting point is ridiculous at all. I didn't personally use this method, but my brother had some success with his last car by emailing every dealership within 150 miles with what he wanted and what he was willing to pay. He identified himself as a motivated buyer who was ready to pay cash as soon as someone hit his numbers.

Most of the dealers were unwilling to commit with any sort of number with their initial replies. Just a couple of them were however, and that's all he needed to start the bidding war with other dealerships. The beauty is you get every offer and number in writing and just let these guys fight each other. It eliminated having to sit around in a show room playing the "let's walk back and forth to the dealer GM" game where the salesman pretends to go to bat for you and really fight for that good deal.

If you do go the dealership route, I'm sure you don't need to be told this but I'll say it anyway, be ready to walk at any moment. Most dealerships are hoping you're a moron, assuming you have no idea what you're doing, and are trying to suck every penny out of you that they can get. You have to treat them the exact same way, and have the mindset that you don't have to buy this specific car, you don't have to buy today, hell you don't have to buy anything at all!
 
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