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Hello, I'm about to wash my T/A for the first time. I'm using Dr. Beasly products and am curious if anyone has any pointers? I am very nervous about this first washing and using of matte ceramic was products. Has anyone used distilled water as suggested? Microfiber towels are suggested for drying but do chamois work too? Does anyone use the matte wash for the whole car, both matte and gloss areas, or is it better to tape off and do separately? Any suggestions would be welcomed. Thanks!
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Just follow Dr. Beasley's prescription kit and you will be good..only time I would tape off the black matte is when you are ready to wax the rest of the car..haven't used distilled water but somebody mentioned buying a filter for your faucet if you have hard water..nice looking T/A by the way.
 

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I would not use a chamois on it. Use good quality microfiber towels to dry. Meguiar's wash and wax soap is a high quality soap. I use it on my R/T black stripes without a problem. You won't need to clay bar it if you can move your fingers lightly across the paint and it is slick and it feels smooth. Just take your time, and enjoy that first wash!
 

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I know clay bar for the gloss paint is good but I've heard clay bar on matte destroys the flatness. I could be wrong.
I wouldn't ever clay a matte finish.
 
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Just follow Dr. Beasley's prescription kit and you will be good..only time I would tape off the black matte is when you are ready to wax the rest of the car..haven't used distilled water but somebody mentioned buying a filter for your faucet if you have hard water..nice looking T/A by the way.
I'll have to check out that filter because I definitely have hard water! Thanks for the heads up!
 

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I would not use a chamois on it. Use good quality microfiber towels to dry. Meguiar's wash and wax soap is a high quality soap. I use it on my R/T black stripes without a problem. You won't need to clay bar it if you can move your fingers lightly across the paint and it is slick and it feels smooth. Just take your time, and enjoy that first wash!
Thank you!
 

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I'll have to check out that filter because I definitely have hard water! Thanks for the heads up!
If you have hard water, just dry it off as you go. I used to have a black musclecar. First, do not wash a hot car in the sun. I use a terry cloth hand towel for washing and soft terry cloth bath towels for drying. My wife knows not to wash them in fabric softener because it makes the towels less absorbant. I always washed the roof first, rinsed it and dried it then I would do the hood in the same sequence, the rear deck lid and tail end, the sides and then the front bumper. Again, rinse and dry as you go. You have to make sure you don’t get your sponge or wash cloth dirty as well as keeping your soapy water clean or else it could make small scratches in the paint and wheels. Wheels and tires last. One thing is you do not want to use the same wash cloth on your wheels as your paint. Again, you need to keep the washcloth and soapy water clean. Do not wrong put your dirty wash cloth in the clean water. You can also find a cheap plastic $3.00 wash bucket at Walmart’s that has grooves in the bottom to collect sediment. This is good if you do have dirty water but you still don’t want to be wringing your dirty wash cloth in the bucket. Do not get wax on your black hood or trim. I use Mother’s spray wax on my black out treatment and the whole car. It makes it easier to get the birdsh_t and bugs off. DO not take it thru car washes.The chemicals in the water are bad for your blackout parts of the car.
 

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This was almost 10 yrs ago, so may not still be cheaper...but they were like 8 bucks each.
 
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If you have hard water, just dry it off as you go. I used to have a black musclecar. First, do not wash a hot car in the sun. I use a terry cloth hand towel for washing and soft terry cloth bath towels for drying. My wife knows not to wash them in fabric softener because it makes the towels less absorbant. I always washed the roof first, rinsed it and dried it then I would do the hood in the same sequence, the rear deck lid and tail end, the sides and then the front bumper. Again, rinse and dry as you go. You have to make sure you don’t get your sponge or wash cloth dirty as well as keeping your soapy water clean or else it could make small scratches in the paint and wheels. Wheels and tires last. One thing is you do not want to use the same wash cloth on your wheels as your paint. Again, you need to keep the washcloth and soapy water clean. Do not wrong put your dirty wash cloth in the clean water. You can also find a cheap plastic $3.00 wash bucket at Walmart’s that has grooves in the bottom to collect sediment. This is good if you do have dirty water but you still don’t want to be wringing your dirty wash cloth in the bucket. Do not get wax on your black hood or trim. I use Mother’s spray wax on my black out treatment and the whole car. It makes it easier to get the birdsh_t and bugs off. DO not take it thru car washes.The chemicals in the water are bad for your blackout parts of the car.
I basically use the same method of washing and drying since I also have hard water. Works well and no water spots. I use quality microfiber towels for drying and I don't use them for anything else. Different ones are used on the wheels, and I also have some wonderful soft wheel brushes to keep me from scraping my hands! They also work much better at getting into those tight spots!
 

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When I do have a need to wash my Challenger I use the two bucket system. I wash it out of the sun. I dry using micro fiber towels as I go. Then I use Turtle Wax Ice Wax to shine her up, doing a section at a time.

Other than that, I use a California duster to remove dust then I will use Turtle Ice Wax Detailer. I wet a section, use a micro fiber towel, wipe in one direction to remove the dirt, then move to a new section using a new part of the towel.
After the car is completely wiped down I go over it with Turtle Wax Ice Wax.
For bugs and bird-doo I use Turtle Wax Bug and Tar Remover, followed by Turtle Wax Ice Wax. For my Wheels I remove them once a season and clean the wheels and tires with a good soap and water solution. Then I use Turtle Wax Ice Wax on the wheel, and Meguiar's Hot Shot Tire Shine on the tire. I wipe the tire down to give it a matte look.
While the wheels and tires are off I get under her and clean underneath using detailer and wax. Fender wells I use Meguiar's Tire shine and wipe them down for a nice luster.
On my widows I use Invisible Glass glass cleaner. I use a 'waffle' towel followed by a Terry cloth.
For the interior I use a good quality leather cleaner/conditioner. I use a good quality product for the vinyl and plastics.
I do not use Armor All.
11 years and she looks Great and No scratches!
Turtle Wax Ice does not harm your Matte Graphics or change their appearance.
 

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A former TA owner suggested this stuff and I use it on the hood, roof, and rear deck (trunk) lid after washing car or between washes when touching things up. I don’t think the Quick Detailer would hurt the matte black but I didn’t want to take a chance. As someone else said, I, too, use a California duster - everywhere.
Also, I started waxing mine about a week ago. Basically, just waxed the non-black parts. Had to be very careful - even used just one finger under a small cloth - to apply wax when close to the black. If I got any on the black, I wiped it off very quickly and used this product to get the residue off. I think I ordered it off of Amazon.
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I tend to wash either very early in the morning, or very late in the afternoon when the sun is low in the sky. I also have been known to pull my car up on the lawn under our big shade tree on hot afternoons. I use a two bucket approach consisting of (2) 5 gallon buckets - one stays virgin for dipping the mitt and holds the car wash soap solution and the other is for rinsing after doing each panel and holds clear rinse water. I also have circular grit guards that slide down into the bottom part of each bucket to trap any grit or dirt safely away from the wash mitt. [Click on the photos to learn more about each product]

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My hoze nozzle of choice is a Firemans Nozzle by Bon-Aire...
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As far as drying portion of the wash goes, I use the Firemans hose nozzle and adjust it to gently flood the top surfaces so that the water sheets off as much as possible. With a Firemans nozzle you have infiite control of the amount of water coming out as it allows you to twist it left or right to control output and stream types.

For drying, I've got a Toro leaf blower dedicated for use as a blow drying device and it is connected to a GFI cord for safety reasons. I use it to get the majority of the remainder of the water off and also for blowing out the crevices on the body, such as mirrors, grill, trim and similar water retaining areas.
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You should also get yourself some modern drying towels rather than the old school chamois - your paint and decals will thank you. I use a pair of Rag Company Twistress Drying Towels which are extra plush and soft and hold a huge amount of water. These are so absorbant, that one of them will do my whole car. I sometimes us a drying agent such as Mequiars Ultimate Detailer misted over the body panels for the final drying phase. This is safe for your T/A decals, too.
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I too have a California Car Duster for use at shows and after short road trips. I've used this for over 35 years and if used properly, they will not mar or scratch your paint. The secret is a light touch...
 
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