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I also am in NY,but I told my dealer not to drill any holes..well the lot boy did his job and drilled 6 holes in my nice Deep Water Blue bumper...it cost me over $300 bucks to have the filled at my friends bodyshop....
I have since bought a electric plate mount that the lic plate folds down and retracts under the front spoiler it is a sweet mod...Pics are in my mods came in thread.It cost around $150...
mench
 
SO I just did this on my 2011. WOrks awesome! I think the grill on the 2011 SRT is a bit different I only needed two 4" bolts. I covered them with black heat shrink tubing. One minor question is......How Tight? I did not want to crank them down but I also did not put any lock tight on the threads. Thoughts?
I just tighened mine enough to where the mount wouldn't move from side to side when I grabbed both ends and tried to wiggle it.

And I'm pretty sure you don't need loctite on the threads when you use toggle bolts.

This mounting idea is really catching on. I was at my local Dodge dealership in Leesburg, VA yesterday and saw another Challenger with the exact same mount. :wow: I even took a closer look to verify.

Not sure if he is a forum member or not, but our cars looked good next to each other with the tags in the same place.

I've gotten alot of comments on the placement of the tag and am very gllad I opted not to have the holes drilled when I got the car. :smileup:
 
I just tighened mine enough to where the mount wouldn't move from side to side when I grabbed both ends and tried to wiggle it.

And I'm pretty sure you don't need loctite on the threads when you use toggle bolts.

This mounting idea is really catching on. I was at my local Dodge dealership in Leesburg, VA yesterday and saw another Challenger with the exact same mount. :wow: I even took a closer look to verify.

Not sure if he is a forum member or not, but our cars looked good next to each other with the tags in the same place.

I've gotten alot of comments on the placement of the tag and am very gllad I opted not to have the holes drilled when I got the car. :smileup:
Yeah that's about how tight I made them too. my 2011 SRT8 lower grill is different for sure than other pictures but two toggles in the lower holes was more than enough. I DID notice that under the stripe you can see the starter holes. That sucks because if you push too hard on the stripe I could see the vinyl tearing over those pre drilled holes in the bumper
 
Yeah that's about how tight I made them too. my 2011 SRT8 lower grill is different for sure than other pictures but two toggles in the lower holes was more than enough. I DID notice that under the stripe you can see the starter holes. That sucks because if you push too hard on the stripe I could see the vinyl tearing over those pre drilled holes in the bumper
Too bad they couldn't have been plugged prior to putting the stripe on.
 
Too bad they couldn't have been plugged prior to putting the stripe on.
Well they are dilled in Brampton and then the stripes are applied. yeah I figure MAYBE I could have that part of the stripe removed, have the holes filled then have a body shop apply a new strip section. I just have to find out if they can buy the stripe in only the sections needed. Can't see them unless you are on top of it.
 
Well they are dilled in Brampton and then the stripes are applied. yeah I figure MAYBE I could have that part of the stripe removed, have the holes filled then have a body shop apply a new strip section. I just have to find out if they can buy the stripe in only the sections needed. Can't see them unless you are on top of it.
Might not be any worse than the dimples and I doubt anyone would be pokin' around at 'em. I wouldn't sweat it until something happens like the stripe sinks or tears in those spots.
 
#31
10-20-2008, 07:40 PM
sumdum

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front plate lower mount
if you could actually post a vid showing how you got the plate to stay like that & how sturdy a solution it really is, I & I think plenty of others here'd be most appreciative!! :smileup: If you can't get a vid, then perhaps some pix of under the car & perhaps under the grill to show what items you used to mount the plate like that.
I used the existing mount that came with the car. This mount had a few advantages. It has the proper contour to match the point of the car, even when it is mounted lower. Because one leg is longer than the other it fits good in the lower position, giving the plate a nice tilt down. The shorter leg fits the bumper point good. The longer leg,bottom in the picture, tucks nicely between the seem in the spoiler. The bolts are similar to molly bolts, those ones that have a spring loaded hinge thingy on the end. These go through the grill holes in the lower grill and pop out to pull the plate holder backward. the screws go through the plate bracket existing holes and are tightened enough to secure the plate against the car but not so tight they deform or brake the lower grill. I also put some lock tight on the hinged nuts to prevent them from loosing. Adding some small rubber edge trim to the contacting legs prevent them from moving around. Plenty of air flow behind it to allow air to enter the lower grill. A few illustrations to help explain. hard to show pictures of a black plate holder on a black car. So far 2 months, 3000+ miles and 135 MPH and its not loose





Last edited by sumdum; 10-21-2008 at 12:20 AM. Reason: add
Thank you for posting this suggestion/alternative to mounting a Front Plate. We just bought our 2009 R/T and had to mount a Front Plate. This works PERFECTLY!!
 
I've got a question on this application. Maybe I missed it (probably so) but how did you get your hands or fingers behind the grill to fasten the nuts etc.?

There's nowhere for me to reach to where I need to.

Yeah, mine still isn't on.
 
They are spring loaded wing nuts that collapse and then expand once you put them through the grill... You dont need to get your hands or fingers behind the grill... Just make sure you pull out the plate mount when tightening so there is pressure against the wing nuts when you tighten them down and don't forget the locktite... Hope this helps.
 
I've got a question on this application. Maybe I missed it (probably so) but how did you get your hands or fingers behind the grill to fasten the nuts etc.?

There's nowhere for me to reach to where I need to.

Yeah, mine still isn't on.
Toggle bolts have the folding butterfly. Just fold them, push them through and they will pop open on the other side so you can start tightening them. They are the same toggle bolts you use for drywall applications.
 
Here are two tips.

If you ever have to remove your license plate bracket, use a magnetic wand to catch the "butterfly" portion of the toggle bolt so that it doesn't fall and rattle around. The wand costs about $6 at Sears.

Use slit rubber tubing to cover the bolt threads and the lower edge of the license plate bracket to avoid possible scuffing.
 
I did the front plate mount with the lag bolts and a whopping cost of $1.50 and shall I say it looks like it was suppose to be there in the first place. :smileup:
 
The SRT engineers have stated, howver, that the lower grill location is not desirable because the plate/bracket blocks a lot of air.

In two years, I have not noticed a problem. I think that they may be referring to racing use.
 
I didn't want to drill holes in my bumper or block any air from getting into engine comp. I mounted the sho-n-go under the valence towards the passenger side. 3 screws under valence was all it took and I can fold it away when at shows.
 
Watch out if you are lowered!

I have trashed 2 of these so far. I did the first one and my wife did the other.

When I did mine, I drug the thing for a couple of block before a guy in a van flagged me down to tell me what I was doing!

Jeff



I didn't want to drill holes in my bumper or block any air from getting into engine comp. I mounted the sho-n-go under the valence towards the passenger side. 3 screws under valence was all it took and I can fold it away when at shows.
 
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