[slammysammy]

I have been having issues with my challenger for a couple months
. I have taken it to 3 different mechanics including dodge and no one can tell me what the hell is going on with it. So there are a couple issues it's having. First issue is when it gets warm it will crank over but not start until it cools down. Second issue is when I put my foot to the floor on the accelerator the check engine light flashes like 6 times and my car feels like it bogs down and my check engine light turns off. I have done multiple things to try and fix it. I replaced the throttle body control, the spark plugs and coils, variable timing solenoid, crank shaft, and cam shaft. My next move is to run a new ground wire from the battery to the transmission type thing to see if that stops the starting issue. I don't have a check engine light on at all unless I'm accelerating which is why I'm having issues figuring this shit out..any advise or help would be really appreciated!!!

 

[dodge man2]

Any codes? If the check engine light came on there should be codes.

You say you replaced the crankshaft and the camshaft. Did you mean that or did you really mean the sensors related to those items. How many miles on it ?

 

[MJS73]

If the Check Engine light is on there's a code.

 

[Wm. Internet Rock DJ]

What Year What Model Challenger, Get the Codes Scanned at an Autozone or Shop. See what Codes they are.

 

[slammysammy]

Any codes? If the check engine light came on there should be codes.

You say you replaced the crankshaft and the camshaft. Did you mean that or did you really mean the sensors related to those items. How many miles on it ?

There isn't any codes. The check engine light isn't on until I press down on the accelerator and reach up to 80 than it flashes and goes away and when I hook up my Bluetooth scanner it says no codes detected. I changed the cam shaft and the crank shaft because that's what the 1 shop said was wrong. After they changed them there was ticking coming from the engine so my code reader told me I needed a timing solenoid so I got that and changed that out. That's why I'm having such a hard time figuring it out because the check engine light isn't on. It's a 2011 dodge challenger rt. It has 88,476 miles. I only have put on over 20,000 miles since I got it..I got it 2 years ago

 

[slammysammy]

What Year What Model Challenger, Get the Codes Scanned at an Autozone or Shop. See what Codes they are.

It's a 2011 dodge challenger rt. There isn't any codes because the check engine light isn't on unless I'm accelerating and going past 80..than it flashes on and off for a second and than turns off

 

[Wm. Internet Rock DJ]

Did you check the vehicle for Recalls ? If there is any those should be corrected contact dealer one should be an Alternator Recall which with the Electronics can cause issues.

Lookup FCA Vehicle Recalls by VIN | Official Mopar® Site

Search vehicle recall information by VIN or sign in to your Mopar account to see recall information related to your Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, or Ram vehicle.

www.mopar.com

Next have you done a Battery Reset on the Car?

Check the Intake Manifold On the Engine and check the Ground as you mentioned for the Coils

Hard to say without doing a lot of trouble shooting.

 

[slammysammy]

Did you check the vehicle for Recalls ? If there is any those should be corrected contact dealer one should be an Alternator Recall which with the Electronics can cause issues.

Lookup FCA Vehicle Recalls by VIN | Official Mopar® Site

Search vehicle recall information by VIN or sign in to your Mopar account to see recall information related to your Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, or Ram vehicle.

www.mopar.com

Next have you done a Battery Reset on the Car?

Check the Intake Manifold On the Engine and check the Ground as you mentioned for the Coils

Hard to say without doing a lot of trouble shooting.

What is a battery reset. If it's unhooking the battery and letting it sit for a period of time I have done that several times because I had to unhook battery to replace parts. I had dodge check for recalls and there weren't any so they say

 

[dodge man2]

Even if the check engine light isn’t on it should store codes, it might take a more advanced code reader. I’m trying to wrap my mind around why you would change the camshaft and crankshaft? If you have to change those it sounds like there was major engine problems.

 

[Rockster]

I have been having issues with my challenger for a couple months
. I have taken it to 3 different mechanics including dodge and no one can tell me what the hell is going on with it. So there are a couple issues it's having. First issue is when it gets warm it will crank over but not start until it cools down. Second issue is when I put my foot to the floor on the accelerator the check engine light flashes like 6 times and my car feels like it bogs down and my check engine light turns off. I have done multiple things to try and fix it. I replaced the throttle body control, the spark plugs and coils, variable timing solenoid, crank shaft, and cam shaft. My next move is to run a new ground wire from the battery to the transmission type thing to see if that stops the starting issue. I don't have a check engine light on at all unless I'm accelerating which is why I'm having issues figuring this shit out..any advise or help would be really appreciated!!!

Can only offer at best a WAG but the engine cranking and not starting reads like a fuel supply problem. The engine bogging with the accelerator pedal to the floor and the CEL flashing can be due to a fuel supply problem. Further with the CEL flashing while accelerating and going faster (80mph) reads like a fuel supply problem.

For fuel supply problem that boils down to fuel pump problem.

For attempting to diagnose this on your driveway what you want to do is establish how the fuel pump starts and runs when the engine starts from cold vs. when it fails to start when hot.

If the CEL is dark there won't be (shouldn't be) any active error codes. There might be pending codes and there might be permanent codes. The scanner you have may not be able to obtain the pending/permanent codes.

A Dodge shop should have a suitable Dodge diagnostics computer which can pull any Dodge proprietary codes which if present can shed some light on the problem.

A scanner which supports viewing engine telemetry -- and ideally logging this over some time -- might be of some help. Logging the short term fuel trims when you give the engine throttle and when it then flashes the CEL and bogs vs. how the short term fuel trims behave at under similar circumstances but short of the amount of gas pedal and acceleration which trigger the CEL flashing.

I'm thinking short term fuel trims might go sky high as the engine controller commands longer injector open times to inject more fuel having to do so because of insufficient fuel pressure/volume.

Might also mention the failure to start when hot might (might) be related to an intermittently bad crankshaft position sensor. There are ways a tech would go about diagnosing this. What you can try from behind the steering wheel is note the tach behavior when the engine cranks and fires compared to when it cranks but doesn't fire. My 2nd hand info is if the crankshaft position sensor is bad there will not be any signal from it thus the tach won't show any RPMs.

 

[TheOldGuy]

Just WHO changed the crankshaft and camshaft? For a bogging problem? WOW!
-John

 

[slammysammy]

Even if the check engine light isn’t on it should store codes, it might take a more advanced code reader. I’m trying to wrap my mind around why you would change the camshaft and crankshaft? If you have to change those it sounds like there was major engine problems.

The shop I took it to said I needed to change out both so I did. The dodge guys were scratching there heads about that one to. The shop also said I needed a new engine and that mine was trying to seize which I know is not the case because dodge said no way do I need a new one mine is what they would call still pretty new.

 

[TheOldGuy]

The shop I took it to said I needed to change out both so I did. The dodge guys were scratching there heads about that one to. The shop also said I needed a new engine and that mine was trying to seize which I know is not the case because dodge said no way do I need a new one mine is what they would call still pretty new.

I'll ask again. Who did the work? Important because it sounds like a simple fuel delivery problem. Just recently, another member went through 98% of the same problems after throwing $$$ tons of money in the wrong place. A new fuel pump fixed everything.
-John

 

[Wm. Internet Rock DJ]

Go to a good shop with reputable history that one shop sounds like a Scamming Shop that gets locals coming back all the time and spending every cent they got.
You start with one key issue and resolve it clearly you got taken.

 

[slammysammy]

I'll ask again. Who did the work? Important because it sounds like a simple fuel delivery problem. Just recently, another member went through 98% of the same problems after throwing $$$ tons of money in the wrong place. A new fuel pump fixed everything.
-John

A local shop in my area. They did the cam and crank shaft picked it up took it home and it wouldn't start it was just cranking. I called them they had it towed back to there shop and said maybe a starter so they put a new starter in and it was having the same problem so they took out the new starter put the old one back in and refunded me all my money. I took it to dodge 2 times. The first time they said it was fine no issues. Took it home did the same starting thing and lagging power. Called them took it back to dodge. They said they couldnt point in a direction on what was going on. They said 90% sure it was the spark plugs and coils. I had just changed them and they said they weren't the right ones and wanted to charge me 2000 to swap them out I wasn't going to pay that on a Maybe so I took it home and replaced the spark plugs and coils again and it did nothing. I hear the fuel pump prime up when I turn it on..when I have it on run without starting it my check engine light flashes and the throttle body warning light comes on for a bit but turns off when my engine light flashes and than goes solid till I start my car than it isn't on at all.

 

[Wm. Internet Rock DJ]

Was any modifications made prior to the issues? If yes what were they ? If not cross threaded Plugs can cause issues with any Engine, Fuel Pump a pressure check will answer that on the Fuel Line Rails. Manifolds sometimes have to be re-torqued happens more then you think. Was any thing like the PCM Changed in the car? Was a Throttle Body changed with an Aftermarket on BBK for instance? Back to the Fuel System also bad Injectors cause issues, Compression Check the Engine, Check all Fuse and Relays for the Fuel and Ignition System. Was any of the parts replaced with non OEM PARTS if so what were they? Fuel Filter is it changed ? Before you go internal there is a ton of things to check bad Ground Wire or something Shorting bad Starter Switch or Neutral Safety Switch bad Pedal Switch, Throttle Sensor when a good shop says we cant figure it out that means they are not qualified to diagnose the issue many of them out there.

Get yourself a good ODBII Scanner not a Cheap Budget one and one that can clear all codes in the PCM and BCM.

Is there any Mold or Corrosion in the Fuse / Relay Boxes you got one in the Trunk under the Liner next to the Spare and 2nd on under the Hood on the Passenger Fender.
Engine Enternals do not sound like any of the isssue your talking about.

 

[TheOldGuy]

I'm now wondering if the crank and cam were really replaced. That requires engine removal from the vehicle. Really suspicious about what was done or not done.
-John

 

[dodge man2]

Let’s just assume someone put a crank and cam in it. That means the engine came out. All sorts of potential for a loose or pinched wire or something else wrong during the install. I still wonder if the OP is talking about crank and cam sensors.

 

[TheOldGuy]

Let’s just assume someone put a crank and cam in it. That means the engine came out. All sorts of potential for a loose or pinched wire or something else wrong during the install. I still wonder if the OP is talking about crank and cam sensors.

What's really strange is that he says the engine was cranking but not starting so, they put in a new starter. Makes no sense.
-John

 

[Wm. Internet Rock DJ]

Sensors would make more sense and most likely what the OP meant or miss understood about the work on the car.
How ever to say they replaced both that means they have no clue what they are doing at the shop and most likely just
got cheap local parts and put them in. So many Shops do not have Mechanics that is knowledgeable or have proper
diagnostic tools they hit youtube and then print out instructions and then customer pays and is gone. Weeks later
they come back to be taken again.