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I’m also guessing the OP is not very knowledgeable mechanically (nothing wrong with that) so he is just repeating what he was told.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Was any modifications made prior to the issues? If yes what were they ? If not cross threaded Plugs can cause issues with any Engine, Fuel Pump a pressure check will answer that on the Fuel Line Rails. Manifolds sometimes have to be re-torqued happens more then you think. Was any thing like the PCM Changed in the car? Was a Throttle Body changed with an Aftermarket on BBK for instance? Back to the Fuel System also bad Injectors cause issues, Compression Check the Engine, Check all Fuse and Relays for the Fuel and Ignition System. Was any of the parts replaced with non OEM PARTS if so what were they? Fuel Filter is it changed ? Before you go internal there is a ton of things to check bad Ground Wire or something Shorting bad Starter Switch or Neutral Safety Switch bad Pedal Switch, Throttle Sensor when a good shop says we cant figure it out that means they are not qualified to diagnose the issue many of them out there.

Get yourself a good ODBII Scanner not a Cheap Budget one and one that can clear all codes in the PCM and BCM.

Is there any Mold or Corrosion in the Fuse / Relay Boxes you got one in the Trunk under the Liner next to the Spare and 2nd on under the Hood on the Passenger Fender.
Engine Enternals do not sound like any of the isssue your talking about.
I have done so much to it the last couple months. I put in a new throttle body module yesterday. I haven't checked the fuel filter because my car is super low and I can't get under it. My husband is suppose to jack it up sometime this week. I haven't checked the fuses but I will when I get home. I have a pretty good scanner
Let’s just assume someone put a crank and cam in it. That means the engine came out. All sorts of potential for a loose or pinched wire or something else wrong during the install. I still wonder if the OP is talking about crank and cam sensors.
Yes the shop said they replaced both the cam and crank shaft
I’m also guessing the OP is not very knowledgeable mechanically (nothing wrong with that) so he is just repeating what he was I'm a girl. And I am only repeating what the shop told me
I’m also guessing the OP is not very knowledgeable mechanically (nothing wrong with that) so he is just repeating what he was told.
I'm a woman and I am knowledgeable on something and not on others. You would think taking it to a shop they would no what there doing but it's obvious they have no idea what there doing and that includes dodge. I have replaced a lot of my own parts so far. Yesterday I rescanned and it is coming up with misfire on cylinder 5. I have replaced the spark plugs twice now. I ordered a pressure tester/cylinder leak down tester. So hopefully I will know more of what's going on soon.
 

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I hate to beat a dead horse but did they replace the cam and crack sensors, or the camshaft and crankshaft? Big difference.
 

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2011 SXT Pw7 Bright White Challenger
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To replace goth a Cam and Crankshaft that means Removing the Engine Out of the Car and that alone would be couple of Grand With Parts.
Once removed then they have to have the Engine on a Stand and flip it to replace the Crank Shaft you can not do it in the Car not enough space otherwise,
the Cam also has its share of issues to change where some internals can fall inside the Block.
 

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I 3rd the fuel delivery problem, that a new fuel pump should resolve.
 

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There should be a fitting on the fuel rail for attaching a fuel pressure gauge. I don't see how that will help because the fuel pressure should be the same regardless of engine temperature, and it cannot be monitored while driving. The first thing I'd do is have Dodge reflash the PCM. That is quick and easy to do, and might fix everything. If it doesn't, I'd try another PCM.
 

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I have been having issues with my challenger for a couple months
. I have taken it to 3 different mechanics including dodge and no one can tell me what the hell is going on with it. So there are a couple issues it's having. First issue is when it gets warm it will crank over but not start until it cools down. Second issue is when I put my foot to the floor on the accelerator the check engine light flashes like 6 times and my car feels like it bogs down and my check engine light turns off. I have done multiple things to try and fix it. I replaced the throttle body control, the spark plugs and coils, variable timing solenoid, crank shaft, and cam shaft. My next move is to run a new ground wire from the battery to the transmission type thing to see if that stops the starting issue. I don't have a check engine light on at all unless I'm accelerating which is why I'm having issues figuring this shit out..any advise or help would be really appreciated!!!
Blinking check engine light might indicate a misfire. Codes should reveal cylinders
 

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2015 Challenger Scat Pack 6spd Sublime
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Can only offer at best a WAG but the engine cranking and not starting reads like a fuel supply problem. The engine bogging with the accelerator pedal to the floor and the CEL flashing can be due to a fuel supply problem. Further with the CEL flashing while accelerating and going faster (80mph) reads like a fuel supply problem.

For fuel supply problem that boils down to fuel pump problem.

For attempting to diagnose this on your driveway what you want to do is establish how the fuel pump starts and runs when the engine starts from cold vs. when it fails to start when hot.

If the CEL is dark there won't be (shouldn't be) any active error codes. There might be pending codes and there might be permanent codes. The scanner you have may not be able to obtain the pending/permanent codes.

A Dodge shop should have a suitable Dodge diagnostics computer which can pull any Dodge proprietary codes which if present can shed some light on the problem.

A scanner which supports viewing engine telemetry -- and ideally logging this over some time -- might be of some help. Logging the short term fuel trims when you give the engine throttle and when it then flashes the CEL and bogs vs. how the short term fuel trims behave at under similar circumstances but short of the amount of gas pedal and acceleration which trigger the CEL flashing.

I'm thinking short term fuel trims might go sky high as the engine controller commands longer injector open times to inject more fuel having to do so because of insufficient fuel pressure/volume.

Might also mention the failure to start when hot might (might) be related to an intermittently bad crankshaft position sensor. There are ways a tech would go about diagnosing this. What you can try from behind the steering wheel is note the tach behavior when the engine cranks and fires compared to when it cranks but doesn't fire. My 2nd hand info is if the crankshaft position sensor is bad there will not be any signal from it thus the tach won't show any RPMs.
As a yech with over 45 years experience, it's refreshing to hear from someone ELSE who actually understands what is happening, and can describe it in concise terms... 👍
 

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Replaced the cam and crank...Something sounds amiss. How much did they charge for that? It's hard to find good help these days. You need a computer tool that can read Dodge proprietary codes and do live data. If that shop doesn't have that...IDK then. IMO, you're getting hosed.
 

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As a yech with over 45 years experience, it's refreshing to hear from someone ELSE who actually understands what is happening, and can describe it in concise terms... 👍
You are too kind. I am no way up to the level of tech. I thought I knew something about cars but I'd be quite humbled when discussing issues with one of my cars with a senior auto tech. The ones I had the good fortune to know and have available to work on my cars put my knowledge to shame.
 

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I have been having issues with my challenger for a couple months
. I have taken it to 3 different mechanics including dodge and no one can tell me what the hell is going on with it. So there are a couple issues it's having. First issue is when it gets warm it will crank over but not start until it cools down. Second issue is when I put my foot to the floor on the accelerator the check engine light flashes like 6 times and my car feels like it bogs down and my check engine light turns off. I have done multiple things to try and fix it. I replaced the throttle body control, the spark plugs and coils, variable timing solenoid, crank shaft, and cam shaft. My next move is to run a new ground wire from the battery to the transmission type thing to see if that stops the starting issue. I don't have a check engine light on at all unless I'm accelerating which is why I'm having issues figuring this shit out..any advise or help would be really appreciated!!!
That’s really strange. It sounds like your car shuts down when it’s hot and when you accelerate your car is heating up so the car wants to shut down so it throws the check engine light. Definitely has something to do with your cooling system or your fuel system. Check your fuel lines and fuel injectors.
 
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