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Discussion Starter #1
The goal of this is for documentation and reference for others to use.

I just purchased JBA shorty headers (1 3/4 in) as well as power stop z26 rotors and pads. I will not be doing any dyno tuning soon, so any HP gains are purely guesses until I get my 274 cam in there. These headers look 10 times less restrictive than the stock ones, I was appalled as how trash the stock ones look. I'll be doing the install myself, and will be keeping factory gaskets.

As for the brakes, they're very good looking and affordable. ~$450 for rotors and pads and ~$700 for rotors pads and calipers for the 4 wheel kit. I have never done brakes before, so im interested to see how it goes. My car has just under 50k miles and the front rotors are warped and shake hard. I'll be sure to get a good review in once they're installed for everybody.

Has anyone done brakes before? and do the headers require a o2 sensor extension?
 

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Since brakes are THE most important part of the car, second is the stereo LOL. I have been doing brakes since HS.
I agree. Brakes are always overlooked, and they're not hard to install at all (rotors, pads and calipers) unless you're replacing the brake lines too. But I need quality sound and have been doing car audio installs for myself and others for about 10 years now. I definitely could not survive with a factory system. I've got 2 custom DVC built NVX VCW124's in a ported box running off 3000 watts, and all 5.5inch mid's & 2 tweeters were upgraded to Rockford's (6 total, I need to do some custom mounting in the back to get two more tweeters in the back), and for now the two 8inch speakers in the back were upgraded to Rockford 8in woofers (overlaps just perfectly with the freq response of the subs, no dead zones/ranges from 20hz-750ish hertz) and the 10inch factory woofer is removed and there's just an open space to take full advantage of the ported sub box & response in the main cabin. Having the battery in the trunk makes installs on these cars so easy, but whenever I need to get to my battery I have to lug out the 120lb box that only has about half an inch of tolerance to even fit in there. Very tight squeeze, and even more frustrating.
 

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Since brakes are THE most important part of the car, second is the stereo LOL. I have been doing brakes since HS.
I also threw in a 1000 amp cold crank battery. The stock battery (about 700 amp cold I think) was not holding up and my lights would dim a whole lot. Never had any issues now and haven't even used a capacitor.
 

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The goal of this is for documentation and reference for others to use.

I just purchased JBA shorty headers (1 3/4 in) as well as power stop z26 rotors and pads. I will not be doing any dyno tuning soon, so any HP gains are purely guesses until I get my 274 cam in there. These headers look 10 times less restrictive than the stock ones, I was appalled as how trash the stock ones look. I'll be doing the install myself, and will be keeping factory gaskets.

As for the brakes, they're very good looking and affordable. ~$450 for rotors and pads and ~$700 for rotors pads and calipers for the 4 wheel kit. I have never done brakes before, so im interested to see how it goes. My car has just under 50k miles and the front rotors are warped and shake hard. I'll be sure to get a good review in once they're installed for everybody.

Has anyone done brakes before? and do the headers require a o2 sensor extension?
the headers do not require 02 ext.,the install is a royal pita x 10, to do on your back, will take you longer than stated in instructions and I used stage 8 locking header bolts and new factory header gaskets also. I destroyed one 02 sensor trying to remove so had to go get a new one . good luck, have fun. please post back how many curse words you used or made up , i'm sure there will be many :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
the headers do not require 02 ext.,the install is a royal pita x 10, to do on your back, will take you longer than stated in instructions and I used stage 8 locking header bolts and new factory header gaskets also. I destroyed one 02 sensor trying to remove so had to go get a new one . good luck, have fun. please post back how many curse words you used or made up , i'm sure there will be many :cool:
I'll be careful with the o2 sensors. And I'm certain there will be at least 500 very unique swears thanks to the Corps, they've trained me well
:LOL:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Headers came in today. 10 key keyboard next to them for reference. Well constructed except for the 'cleanliness' of the welds, but they're solid. Inside the tubes has some residual metal/dust. What would be the best way to safely clean this?
Picture quality is trash due to my camera being near shattered from a 7.62x39 shell ejecting and making perfect contact with my lens... hopefully that bad luck doesn't carry over to installation.

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air pressure , your headers look to be ceramic coated as you said metal/dust from process
 

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Air should work, but if your not satisfied you could feed an electric wire through a tube attach a rage to wire spray with a cleaner & drag through pipe & repeat on the other three.
 

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They're actually just the stainless. Would the process change?
metal dust still and fume dust . but why did you not get coated (ceramic or titanium)to keep the heat down for the little extra cost?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
metal dust still and fume dust . but why did you not get coated (ceramic or titanium)to keep the heat down for the little extra cost?
Two reasons. One: I was able to get a deal for 40% off that only applied to the non coated shorty's, and two: I'm stationed in California and my rotation date is TBD due to some manpower shortages, so I'm here indefinitely. I plan on getting long tubes down the road once I'm out of here, I don't wanna deal with the risk of legal issues for emissions/smog testing since technically CA laws apply to me even though my home of record and citizenship is in CT.

This also gives me the chance to see how good I feel about these after I get my 274 cam in, and if I'm not satisfied I have the option to sell these and get different ones. And if I am satisfied, no further changes/costs will be needed. I don't get paid much, so every dollar counts and I could not pass up that deal.
 

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It’s tough doing the headers. I put mine in with the heads and that was no problem whatsoever. Many have done it without removing the heads though, but reported difficulty torquing down some bolts. I also went with stage 8 locking header bolts.

I replaced the rotors and pads on my car. It’s pretty strait forward, although I had to pound one of the rotors off as it was a little rusted on the hub. I greased up the backside of the new rotors before putting them back on. Are you replacing the calipers too? What set are you putting on?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It’s tough doing the headers. I put mine in with the heads and that was no problem whatsoever. Many have done it without removing the heads though, but reported difficulty torquing down some bolts. I also went with stage 8 locking header bolts.

I replaced the rotors and pads on my car. It’s pretty strait forward, although I had to pound one of the rotors off as it was a little rusted on the hub. I greased up the backside of the new rotors before putting them back on. Are you replacing the calipers too? What set are you putting on?
Yeah I've heard it's very tedious, but that's just more to learn for me. I am not doing calipers for now, I hardly ever do any sort of track racing or really anything other than a 40 pull on the highways for fun. My front right rotor was warped and caused a lot of shaking, so getting that fixed was my primary goal. I'll see how well the rotors and pads will do with my driving and even if new calipers are needed. For now, I honestly don't know which is needed so I've been looking around for somebody with them installed so I can take a ride and see how they do in comparison.
 

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My front rotors were warped too. I tracked the car and it was pretty sketchy. I had to brake late and hard, but not too hard. Calipers and fluid held up fine. I replaced all four corners with stop tech pads and rotors and it's been great since.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'll be installing the headers this weekend. Is removing the engine mounts and lifting the engine necessary? Or does that just make the job easier to do?
 

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I removed mine and it made it lots easier , there not a lot of room down under . the best reason is so you can see what your doing especially using the stage 8 header bolts . and I reused the heat shield on the starter side(y)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I removed mine and it made it lots easier , there not a lot of room down under . the best reason is so you can see what your doing especially using the stage 8 header bolts . and I reused the heat shield on the starter side(y)
Got it, I'll do that on Saturday along with my PowerStop z26 rotors and pads.

Did you notice any differences in noise/tone/crackling after throwing in your shortys? Did you get a custom tune along with it? And when/if untuned, how much leaner (if at all) was it running?

I'll be doing detailed before and after logs with my Intune i3 and will try to post that all on here for others to see.
 

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Got it, I'll do that on Saturday along with my PowerStop z26 rotors and pads.

Did you notice any differences in noise/tone/crackling after throwing in your shortys? Did you get a custom tune along with it? And when/if untuned, how much leaner (if at all) was it running?

I'll be doing detailed before and after logs with my Intune i3 and will try to post that all on here for others to see.
no crackling. at idle it was a deeper rumble with less restriction ,at cruising speed its slightly louder but nice . wot =wow. no aftermarket tune added but, i have the stage 2pcm from mopar/arrow-prefix. it didn't run leaner at all just less burdened to breathe .really works well with the 270 comp stage 2 cam for a nice hp bump:cool:
 
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