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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
Well crap. Its still overheating within 10 miles. New hoses with springs inside. Vacuumed the system 3 times (Sweet system! Thanks jklotz10). No water in oil and no oil in water. No smoke from the exhaust and no codes in the PCM, New 160 thermostat (5th time) with a 1/16 hole I drilled in top to be sure to vacuum out the air. Fans come on as they should. I'm completely lost on this. No boil over like the combustion gasses are adding air. I am going to go get the tester from auto zone to see if any combustion gasses are in the coolant just in case.
It has the hose where the bleed screw would be to the oil cooler then back to bottom hose instead of the hose coming off the thermostat neck like my 5.7 and 6.1 Chargers. I dont think it would make a difference but i am willing to try anything.
She runs like a champ and will bark the wide ass tires at shifts.

Any other ideas? I am ready to throw in the towel and pull the engine or just sell the car as is.
 
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Well crap. Its still overheating within 10 miles. New hoses with springs inside. Vacuumed the system 3 times (Sweet system! Thanks jklotz10). No water in oil and no oil in water. No smoke from the exhaust and no codes in the PCM, New 160 thermostat (5th time) with a 1/16 hole I drilled in top to be sure to vacuum out the air. Fans come on as they should. I'm completely lost on this. No boil over like the combustion gasses are adding air. I am going to go get the tester from auto zone to see if any combustion gasses are in the coolant just in case.
It has the hose where the bleed screw would be to the oil cooler then back to bottom hose instead of the hose coming off the thermostat neck like my 5.7 and 6.1 Chargers. I dont think it would make a difference but i am willing to try anything.
She runs like a champ and will bark the wide ass tires at shifts.

Any other ideas? I am ready to throw in the towel and pull the engine or just sell the car as is.
Yes, another idea. One of the biggest issues with cross flow radiators is the inability to store sludge in the lower tank because it don't exist. You may have up to 10 rows or more of the radiator bottom section clogged with sludge. The only way to find out is with a radiator core temperature crayon or a DVM with a temperature reading laser. Then you can scan the cores when the engine is hot or overheating. A cooling system is not rocket science. The problem will be found.
-John
 

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Just a thought here and probably a long shot, but reading through your comments again and again are you sure the engine is actually overheating? What I mean is, could the gauge pod / dash cluster from your 2012 R/T be calibrated differently to the 2014 SRT engine you have installed, the thermostat sensor on the engine could be sending a much higher resistance to the ECM and the dash display could be showing a high or overheating temperature but the engine could be in the normal operating range.
Bottom line could it be a temperature sensor to ECM to dash display mismatch?
 

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If the radiator is good, you have just about eliminated most common things. Can you tell if water is moving through the radiator? Maybe the new water pumps is bad? Radiator clogged? Engine block clogged somewhere? Do you have on of those point and shoot thermometer? You could check the temp in parts of the radiator and figure out what is getting hot and maybe what isnt.
 

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Just a thought here and probably a long shot, but reading through your comments again and again are you sure the engine is actually overheating? What I mean is, could the gauge pod / dash cluster from your 2012 R/T be calibrated differently to the 2014 SRT engine you have installed, the thermostat sensor on the engine could be sending a much higher resistance to the ECM and the dash display could be showing a high or overheating temperature but the engine could be in the normal operating range.
Bottom line could it be a temperature sensor to ECM to dash display mismatch?

I can tell ya this much....on my cherokee.......I tried several different coolant temp sensors...and the range of readings they gave astounded me....from dead on to 15 deg higher than actual temp per IR gun.......so I suppose it could be a signal issue............

I also know the air inlet temp sensor for my 88 and what you would expect to be the same sensor on my 96 give different resistance readings for the same temp
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Hey,
Thank you for the suggestions. I had a new radiator in my shed still in the box. When I pulled the lower hose on the radiator to drain less than a half gallon came out. I am betting now that she is clogged. I dont know how long the engine sat before I got it and it could have been full of crap. I ordered a coolant inline clear filter so hopefully it wont happen again. I will update when I finish getting the old one out and new in.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Hey,
She actually over heated so bad and I was slightly pissed and it went so far it melted the intake where the gaskets are. I pulled the bottom hose and at most 1/2 gallon came out it sat for a day with no bottom hose connected to the rad and nothing else came out. This morning I got the rad out and when I flipped it over I had a bunch come out of the intake on the radiator. She must be really clogged. The spare rad I had was for the 6.4 I never got around to putting in and forgot all about it. I also have a rad inline filter from Jegs coming in today too.
I will feel like a jackass if this works.
 
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I would think that's all you need is the correct radiator for the 6.4 , but something to consider if the radiator you are removing was partially clogged or had contamination the contamination particles could be inside the motor? Thermistat, water pump, if possible maybe flush it out with a garden hose, I don't know if you can use chemical flushes and probably wouldn't unless you're sure, you don't need anymore problems. Hopefully everything will work out well for you...
 
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