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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The adjustable parameters on the intune 1000 DCX includes spark advance adjustments. What is the difference between WOT spark, and WOT MBT spark? And if you advance the WOT spark, is the increase in timing over and above the factory setting, or is it from 0degrees? There is nothing in the user manual to explain any of this. If I can pick up some horsepower and torque by adjusting the spark advance, that would be great, but I don't want to do something that is going to have an adverse effect on my engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
The adjustable parameters on the intune 1000 DCX includes spark advance adjustments. What is the difference between WOT spark, and WOT MBT spark? And if you advance the WOT spark, is the increase in timing over and above the factory setting, or is it from 0degrees? There is nothing in the user manual to explain any of this. If I can pick up some horsepower and torque by adjusting the spark advance, that would be great, but I don't want to do something that is going to have an adverse effect on my engine.
Well, it's been over a year since I posted this question, and still no response or reply. Surely there are other drivers out there who would like to know the answers to the questions about adjusting the timing with the tuners. Anybody care to jump in on this one.
 

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Bringing this thread back from the dead I would imagine the long answer is: there's no response due to liability, and the ones that know aren't going give it up without a price (i.e. Tuners)..although you can always be a pioneer at it as I know a few that have and are staring at their car as a paper weight in the garage..the short answer is: there's a reason there's a disclaimer upon boot up of hand held tuner devices, you know, the one that no one reads prior to hitting the yes button...
 

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My assumption would be the parameters would be additional timing above and beyond the factory setting or lower than the factory setting. I believe the 5.7L runs about 20 degrees of total timing at WOT in stock form (6.4L runs around 16 degrees I believe). So if you bumped it up 2 degrees then you'd be running 22 degrees total.

The easiest method to confirm this would be to simply add one degree (won't hurt anything) and then do a datalog. Then remove it back to stock, datalog again, and see what total timing numbers you're hitting at WOT in your logs. Most likely you will see 20 for the stock log and 21 for your adjusted log.

If you want to adjust your timing, be sure to do it slowly. 1 degree at a time and datalog. Check for excessive knock retard (st kr and lt kr). You want 0 lt kr and ideally less than 2-3 st kr. It's normal to have some around shift points but it should drop off rapidly after shifting. If it lingers then you're just losing power as the knock sensors are pulling timing. I've heard from a couple tuners (Johan and Sean) that the hemi knock sensors are pretty sensitive, so you may not be able to go much higher than stock (maybe 2-3 degrees tops).

You really won't benefit much from adding more timing unless you have the fuel to handle it. Most fuels nowadays sucks, even the 93 has 10% ethanol in it in most areas. I would experiment with 1-2 degrees and see how it feels and check for knock retard. You may be surprised to see some knock retard on the stock tune as well depending on the quality of fuel you're using.

Rather than experiement with something you have little to no experience with, I would suggest forking out $125 and getting an email tune from Sean at Hemifever. His tunes are proven on a dyno and are safe. I loaded his race tune on my old 2010 R/T and it really woke it up and was much more fun to drive. They can also reduce torque management beyond what the canned tunes or tuners can do on their own which is what really makes a big difference on these cars.

You can also experiment with adding/removing fuel (richer/leaner) but again, much beyond say 5-10% I'd be a little leery of doing so without a wideband O2 sensor to measure your A/F ratio. Better off just spending $125 or so on a solid custom email tune from a reputable tuner IMO.
 

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No problem, I messed around with all the tuner/datalogging stuff on my old car, it was a lot of fun. But at the end of the day, you're better off just going with a custom tune from a reputable tuner who has proven their tunes in terms of gains and margin of safety on a dyno.
 
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