Dodge Challenger Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
2017 T/A 392 Destroyer Gray
Joined
·
575 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I came out from work and my battery was dead, very weird, I know I left nothing on. I get a jump and my head unit screen is completely different. Color, settings, everything. I hit sport like usual and traction doesn't change to sport like it always has, had to manually hit the second button. The more I look the more I notice differences. A bunch of settings can't be found, a bunch are now blank, super track pack button doesn't work, nothing under lights settings, my heated seats/ steering wheel/ a/c seats options are gone and when I turned the car off I get a "chrysler" splash screen.

Did I get some sort of update out of nowhere that killed my battery and got the wrong update? I never have had an update, or any prompt asking for permission to do one. That's ridiculous that they'd do an update without asking for permission, on a car that isn't running and kill your battery.

What made it better was I work nights and was last one out so I came out at midnight to a dead battery in an empty parking lot in a rather crappy part of town. Had to call a coworker who was pretty much home to turn around and come back to give me a jump. Anybody else have this happen? I guess I get to go to my favorite place on the planet and argue with the idiots at the dealership about getting it corrected, JOY. I'll probably get the regular response of it being normal and the car has been rebranded as a chrysler.
 

·
Registered
2015 Dodge Challenger SRT
Joined
·
639 Posts
Is your radio original to your car? If not, the jump start might have reset it to the vehicle it came out of. Perhaps a Chrysler that didn't have Sport mode or other Challenger features.

Of course, you can always try the old standby vehicle reset of disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and reconnecting it.

Perhaps simpler .... There are a couple of ways Uconnect radios can be reset. Just depends on which year/system you have.

One method is to have the ignition in the "Run" position (you don't need to actually start the car) and press the upper right-hand corner of the screen and hold it for 10-15 seconds. The screen will go dark and then reboot/reset.

The other method is what Uconnect had me try on my 2015 (probably an older version radio than yours) when I had a problem with an update:
  1. Ensure your vehicle is in park and in “Run” mode.
  2. Press and hold down the volume and tuner knob buttons at the same time.
  3. Hold down the knobs for 10 – 20 seconds.
  4. After holding down the knobs, the screen should flash your vehicle brand name and then go dark.
  5. After a few moments the brand name will return, the system will reinitialize, and it will return you to the main UConnect screen.

Hopefully one of these will get your features back.
 

·
Registered
2017 T/A 392 Destroyer Gray
Joined
·
575 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Went to leave for work and it's dead again, completely this time. Door won't even unlock. This is ridiculous.
 

·
Registered
2017 T/A 392 Destroyer Gray
Joined
·
575 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Dealership replaced the head unit with what I assume is a new unit last year. They had to order it.
 

·
Registered
2015 Dodge Challenger SRT
Joined
·
639 Posts
Dealership replaced the head unit with what I assume is a new unit last year. They had to order it.

As for your radio ..... I found out back in '14 when I had to replace the radio in my '11 Challenger R/T Classic due to a Bluetooth issue that Dodge service departments don't get brand new radios. They get remanufactured radios. Most work just fine. But the replacement they put in my car wouldn't/couldn't activate my Sirius subscription. AM, FM, and even the Sirius preview channel all worked just fine but it wouldn't take the subscription information. I'd dump this problem right back in the dealership's lap and ask them to get you a new radio. Yours obviously lived a previous life in a Chrysler.

As for your battery ..... Your profile says you have a 2017 ... Three years used to be about when an original battery would fail. But that was back when most batteries were in the engine compartment. One of the advantages of having the battery in the trunk is that the battery tends to last longer because it's away from the heat of the engine compartment and somewhat protected from the cold.

If you can get to an auto parts store, have them check charging system. If the alternator is failing, then the battery isn't going to get a charge. If the battery is deader than dead due to a bad cell, it's not going to take a charge even if the alternator is working properly. Either way ... you're buying a battery.
 
  • Like
Reactions: P.M.F. & PAL

·
Registered
2017 T/A 392 Destroyer Gray
Joined
·
575 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Update is tried to jump it, was at 10 volts so I figured wouldn't work which it didn't but they killed it again because my dodge screen is back. So they obviously saw they screwed up and redid the update but killed it again. Battery was replaced when I bought it 2 years ago. I got to 13 volts jumping it and would only click so I hope it didn't die while flashing and brick the computer. Gonna try to bring the battery back to the dealer tomorrow and hope it starts. Can you opt out of these updates?
 

·
Registered
2017 T/A 392 Destroyer Gray
Joined
·
575 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Is it even possible to brick the computer with their OTA updates or is that only an issue when dealing with tuners losing power when writing to the pcm? I'm just trying to think of what other headaches I'll get tomorrow when I try to get my battery replaced at the dealer. I don't see how updating the radio would brick the car and I'm hoping they just killed the battery but there is computer settings in the radio so is it possible?
 

·
Premium Member
2016 Dodge Challenger R/T Plus in Granite Crystal Metallic
Joined
·
1,764 Posts
Update is tried to jump it, was at 10 volts so I figured wouldn't work which it didn't but they killed it again because my dodge screen is back. So they obviously saw they screwed up and redid the update but killed it again. Battery was replaced when I bought it 2 years ago. I got to 13 volts jumping it and would only click so I hope it didn't die while flashing and brick the computer. Gonna try to bring the battery back to the dealer tomorrow and hope it starts. Can you opt out of these updates?
Did you charge the battery AFTER the jump? The alternator will not charge it from dead to full.
 

·
Registered
2017 T/A 392 Destroyer Gray
Joined
·
575 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Not right after, had a 30 min ride home, figured I had enough to get it charged the next day. Had the intention of going to the dealer about the software issue.

Tried bringing the battery back but nooooo gotta have the whole car. Battery said 36 month free replacement but "they only warranty for 2 years" which I was 2 months over, so went off the car's warranty. I had to freaking flatbed the car there for a battery. I almost got kicked outta the dealership at that point.

Had to wait till Monday to get it to the dealer so tried a slow charge. 34 hours to get to 95% and then it said battery failure. Soon as I unplugged the charger, the battery immediately dropped to 10v, after 34 damn hours.

Flatbed comes and throws the jump pack to it, starts right up but the Chrysler splash screen was back. Dealership is saying it's normal to update with the car not running, the update was done right but I had a bad battery and it was just a coincidence about the update timing. Also the bad battery is making the splash screen/ options change. That was the initial diagnoses before they even got it in the shop. Gonna "look at it tomorrow morning". Don't think I buy that nonsense.

So now I wait. What a complete mess.
 

·
Registered
2017 T/A 392 Destroyer Gray
Joined
·
575 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I know the alternator isn't gonna recharge to full but it was barely not enough to start and with taking the long way home, I figured I had enough recharge to sit overnight. Never been a problem on any other car I've jumped.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
122 Posts
If the battery is showing 10V you have a shorted cell. This happened to me last year on a trip out of state. No warning at all, car was only 2 years old at the time. Got a jump and drove to closest auto parts store that had a battery and changed it out myself. My radio was doing all kinds of crazy stuff when started the car. After a few ignition cycles everything went back normal. Between ignition cycles be sure to open and close the driver’s door and wait a few minutes for everything to power down before restarting. I think this has to be done to have all the various control modules re-synch with each other.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top