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I lost some power with the resonator delete and its KILLING me!! I feel like I've lost 100hp! Not really but I can definitely tell a difference and I don't like it at all.
Lost power with resonator delete
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You will lose torque and horsepower when you remove the resonators. The engineers at Chrysler (FCA) are mechanical engineers. Why is it that the many wish to change the performance of the Dodge Challenger. The engineers have accounted for the very last detail.
You are certainly correct in losing power. In fact if you place the motor on a dyno, it will surely print out the negative results. We always run stock.
You are certainly correct in losing power. In fact if you place the motor on a dyno, it will surely print out the negative results. We always run stock.
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Did you try doing the fuse trick yet? Not sure if that will make a difference but worth a shot anyway.
If that doesn't work, then maybe you could get a custom tune to correct it? Not even sure that would solve it though.
You could always go with an aftermarket catback system like Solo, Zoomers, Corsa, Borla, etc. Those typically maintain power or add a little hp while sounding great too.
I know Blastin Bobs also makes different types of resonator deletes. They make some with glasspacks, Magnaflow mufflers built in, etc. Maybe having some additional backpressure is all you need?
Just throwing out some thoughts. I've never dealt with the issue directly myself as I still have the stock exhaust on my car.
If that doesn't work, then maybe you could get a custom tune to correct it? Not even sure that would solve it though.
You could always go with an aftermarket catback system like Solo, Zoomers, Corsa, Borla, etc. Those typically maintain power or add a little hp while sounding great too.
I know Blastin Bobs also makes different types of resonator deletes. They make some with glasspacks, Magnaflow mufflers built in, etc. Maybe having some additional backpressure is all you need?
Just throwing out some thoughts. I've never dealt with the issue directly myself as I still have the stock exhaust on my car.
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I don't agree that deleting the resonaters will cause a power loss. The engineers put them on for the noise. People are always talking about back pressure and saying you need it. It's a misunderstood concept. You need exhaust velocity not back pressure and deleting the resonaterrs shouldn't hurt anything. Getting a tuner and a good dyno tune might help.
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All I know is the instant I replaced the muffler and deleted the resonator I lost power. I understand that dodge builds and tunes everything for the stock setup and any alteration to any component can result in a loss of power but the stock exhaust isn't mean enough. Whenever possible I will have it tuned. I thought about getting the blastin bobs but I'd rather just hold out for a tune and see how that works for me. I would think that a tune would do better on a car with straight pipe in place of the resonator rather than the blasting bobs because there is less restriction, but I could be wrong it wouldn't be the first time!
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And no I never tried the fuse trick I couldn't pinpoint which one it was.
Carl might be referencing the #2 fuse trick: Pulling the #2 fuse to reset the PCM
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There is positive + and negative- back pressure associated with many motors. This is a function which one cannot overlook when adding, or modifying an exhaust system. Try placing a dual exhaust system on a negative back pressure system, whereas the motor is factored with positive back pressure: and see what happens.
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When I went from the stock "H" pipe and intake to the "X" pipe and Legmaker CAI the performance jumped for me. Its as if the vehicle could now breathe easier. I still have the stock resonators and exhaust units.
For me, I love the sound of the Corsa, Stainless and Magnaflow units. And although I don't expect a large amount of performance upgrade if I were to install an "axle back system" to complete my exhaust build, I believe customers shouldn't see a negative amount of performance from the changes.
For me, I love the sound of the Corsa, Stainless and Magnaflow units. And although I don't expect a large amount of performance upgrade if I were to install an "axle back system" to complete my exhaust build, I believe customers shouldn't see a negative amount of performance from the changes.
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He is but I have a 2015 and the fuse box is completely different.
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All I did was replace the stock muffler with borla muffler and replace stock resonator with straight pipe.
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Heard of the H and X. Always thought the H was more efficient.
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Got any data to back any of that up, other than opinion that a reso delete loses power and TQ? Because mine was on a dyno before and after. The OP needs to be aware when you pull the #2 fuse you have to go out and drive the car hard several times to see a change. I reset the fuse before a dyno pull and lost 23HP, we had to make 5 WOT pulls to get the HP back up to where it was.
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There has to be some threads on the fuse trick for the 2015 models by now, but maybe not. I'll see if I can find anything on it. I know that has worked for some people when they made changes to their car.
How many miles have you put on the car since you did the resonator delete?
I'm no exhaust expert so I really can't comment on the whole back pressure thing. I do know that on my Nova, when I open the cutouts and bypass the exhaust the car feels slower and less responsive down low compared to when I just run it right through the exhaust system. Of course that exhaust system is longtube headers to 3" pipe, true duals, 40 series Flowmasters, and turndowns behind the rear axle. So it's not much of an exhaust system. But there was a definite loss of power that I felt. Maybe I needed to change the timing or adjust the carb for it but I never bothered.
I've read threads where people felt they gained power after the resonator delete and then many like this where people claim to have lost power. I'm not sure why some gain and some lose or maybe some people's butt dyno's aren't calibrated quite right, who knows.
Fuse trick, if applicable to 2015 models would be the cheapest thing to try, being free. Then maybe getting a tune on it might help. Problem is, with a 2015, I don't think any tunes are available yet are they? I don't think Diablosport has cracked the new code yet to tune them. So you might have to wait a while with your power loss until that happens. I know it took quite a while for them to get the 2011 tuning set up.
How many miles have you put on the car since you did the resonator delete?
I'm no exhaust expert so I really can't comment on the whole back pressure thing. I do know that on my Nova, when I open the cutouts and bypass the exhaust the car feels slower and less responsive down low compared to when I just run it right through the exhaust system. Of course that exhaust system is longtube headers to 3" pipe, true duals, 40 series Flowmasters, and turndowns behind the rear axle. So it's not much of an exhaust system. But there was a definite loss of power that I felt. Maybe I needed to change the timing or adjust the carb for it but I never bothered.
I've read threads where people felt they gained power after the resonator delete and then many like this where people claim to have lost power. I'm not sure why some gain and some lose or maybe some people's butt dyno's aren't calibrated quite right, who knows.
Fuse trick, if applicable to 2015 models would be the cheapest thing to try, being free. Then maybe getting a tune on it might help. Problem is, with a 2015, I don't think any tunes are available yet are they? I don't think Diablosport has cracked the new code yet to tune them. So you might have to wait a while with your power loss until that happens. I know it took quite a while for them to get the 2011 tuning set up.
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Phil, what were your before and after numbers with the reso delete?
Also, I wonder why sometimes when I pull the fuse the car feels like it's more responsive and faster and others it feels about the same before pulling the fuse? Driving it hard for a while before vs driving like a granny I guess?
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If your not sure of which fuse to pull, can't you just disconnect the positive battery connector and place it on the negative terminal for a few seconds and It will drain the power from the system and reset the pcm the same as pulling fuse?
And I agree with carl, but I have cut outs on my 09 R/T, When Opening the cutouts the car is definitely more sluggish on take off, so for me Its a trade off to get the nice loud sound. LOL If accelerating fast I just close the cut outs. With the less resistance from the resonator delete this may be what your experiencing?
And I agree with carl, but I have cut outs on my 09 R/T, When Opening the cutouts the car is definitely more sluggish on take off, so for me Its a trade off to get the nice loud sound. LOL If accelerating fast I just close the cut outs. With the less resistance from the resonator delete this may be what your experiencing?
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I put on the reso deletes on my '12 a while back - no issues w/ power loss. I also pulled the #2 fuse at the time and let the computer adaptives "re-learn" the car.
I don't agree with the assertion that dumping resonators causes a loss of HP and TQ. The resonators are not overly restrictive and they are too far back in the exhaust system to affect backpressure or exhaust scavenging on these motors - especially with the restrictive factory exhaust manifolds that come on the cars. Those are more restrictive than the resonators will ever be.
I can tell you that before my engine build my car baselined in the high 330s (RWP) which is low 390s at the crank. The only mods I had at the time were CAI and reso deletes, and a 93 octane tune. Given the factory specs (stock) were 376 BHP/323 RWHP its pretty clear in my case the reso deletes did nothing to negatively affect HP.
In terms of the engineers accounting for every last detail - things are not always as they seem. Engineering is a matter of tradeoffs and compromises. For example - headers breathe better than single tunnel manifolds - yet why do engineers (who know this) put single tunnel manifolds on a car? There are numerous similar tradeoffs made in other places in the drivetrain. Many of the reasons are around emissions and fuel economy. The whole idiotic 1st gear to 4th gear lockout feature (easily remedied by a skip-shift eliminator) was an engineering decision to try and improve fuel economy - which directly affects CAFE standards. Everyone who has disabled this feature agrees its a dumb design feature - but many don't realize it was done for other reasons.
Same applies here in this case - my point is don't assume the engineers were solely driven by maximizing performance. Instead they are driven by a combination of performance, drivability, emissions, CAFE, and minimizing production costs of the car when its being built. As with all things - its a design compromise.
I don't agree with the assertion that dumping resonators causes a loss of HP and TQ. The resonators are not overly restrictive and they are too far back in the exhaust system to affect backpressure or exhaust scavenging on these motors - especially with the restrictive factory exhaust manifolds that come on the cars. Those are more restrictive than the resonators will ever be.
I can tell you that before my engine build my car baselined in the high 330s (RWP) which is low 390s at the crank. The only mods I had at the time were CAI and reso deletes, and a 93 octane tune. Given the factory specs (stock) were 376 BHP/323 RWHP its pretty clear in my case the reso deletes did nothing to negatively affect HP.
In terms of the engineers accounting for every last detail - things are not always as they seem. Engineering is a matter of tradeoffs and compromises. For example - headers breathe better than single tunnel manifolds - yet why do engineers (who know this) put single tunnel manifolds on a car? There are numerous similar tradeoffs made in other places in the drivetrain. Many of the reasons are around emissions and fuel economy. The whole idiotic 1st gear to 4th gear lockout feature (easily remedied by a skip-shift eliminator) was an engineering decision to try and improve fuel economy - which directly affects CAFE standards. Everyone who has disabled this feature agrees its a dumb design feature - but many don't realize it was done for other reasons.
Same applies here in this case - my point is don't assume the engineers were solely driven by maximizing performance. Instead they are driven by a combination of performance, drivability, emissions, CAFE, and minimizing production costs of the car when its being built. As with all things - its a design compromise.
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^ Well said!
Maybe he could just disconnect the battery and let the PCM reset since it's a little fuzzy on which fuse to pull on the new 2015's. I looked around last night a little and never found anything conclusive on which fuse crosses over from the older cars to the newer ones for #2 fuse. I have read some threads where guys did this, felt a power loss, then pulled the fuse and the car came back to life again. Maybe that's all he needs to do?
Otherwise maybe a tune is in order, but without being to do that yet that option isn't all that great.
I've never did the battery trick before, but I think all you need to do is disconnect the ground for 30 seconds and then reconnect it. Not sure what else it resets though since that's killing power to everything not just a certain area like the fuse pull does.
Maybe he could just disconnect the battery and let the PCM reset since it's a little fuzzy on which fuse to pull on the new 2015's. I looked around last night a little and never found anything conclusive on which fuse crosses over from the older cars to the newer ones for #2 fuse. I have read some threads where guys did this, felt a power loss, then pulled the fuse and the car came back to life again. Maybe that's all he needs to do?
Otherwise maybe a tune is in order, but without being to do that yet that option isn't all that great.
I've never did the battery trick before, but I think all you need to do is disconnect the ground for 30 seconds and then reconnect it. Not sure what else it resets though since that's killing power to everything not just a certain area like the fuse pull does.
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Ran into the same situation when I had my 2010. Put a full Borla catback system on and felt an immediate difference in pick up. Shop said that the resonators were quite restrictive and alters the torque curve. The power gain I was told I would see was at the higher RPM's and would probably lose power on the lower RPM's. So it seems the exhaust mod is some what of a compromise. That said I removed the mufflers when I had my RT and left the rear resonators. Didn't lose any power and got a pretty good sound. Hope that helps.
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I removed my stock exhaust, had a FlowMaster system installed. I believe power was gained by removing the stock exhaust. I could feel and hear the difference. Perhaps my mind was playing tricks on me. But, when I had to have the timing chain recall done, the mechanic who worked on my car mention having the stock exhaust removed and installing the FlowMaster exhaust said I would gain some power. Again maybe my mind was playing tricks on me. Power, No Power. I still like it.
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