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So I have a 2016 challenger Scat Pack with about 30K miles on it. I’ve owned it for about a week but the other day it’s started ticking. Sometimes it’s noticeable and sometimes is not but last night
I could hear it from inside the car while driving coming from the passenger side. Especially during acceleration. I’m just trying to figure out is this normal for the scat packs or is something wrong?
 

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2016 Challenger Scat Pack Shaker
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Welcome from AZ, no constant ticking is not normal other than injector tick. Hemis seem to be oil snobs, the 392 should be using a high quality full synthetic. Factory fill is Pennzoil ultra platinum 0-40 , a good oil filter with anti drainback is also a good idea, SRT or Wix 57899xp are good choices. I would start with an oil and filter change.
 

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Are you saying that just a simple oil change could solve my problem. As in there isn’t enough lubrication
 

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No I am saying you should start there, if it does not improve any then it needs to be looked at further. You bought it used and have no idea what oil services were performed.
 

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You'd be surprised how many used cars have non-operating camshaft advance/retard mechanisms, and noisy lifters because after an oil analysis is performed it is found that the previous owner poured in 20W50 racing oil or some such. Because you know.... Like was said above, get the right oil and a SRT or a Wix filter.
-John
 

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I’d agree an oil change with proper oil and filter is the best start. I bought my 15 Scat used as well. Dealers aren’t going to put any more than they have to in a used car, that includes quality oil and a filter.
 

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Agree with the previous posts. These engines are very picky as far as the oil goes. The MDS system will not work properly with wrong oil viscosity.
 

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So I have a 2016 challenger Scat Pack with about 30K miles on it. I’ve owned it for about a week but the other day it’s started ticking. Sometimes it’s noticeable and sometimes is not but last night
I could hear it from inside the car while driving coming from the passenger side. Especially during acceleration. I’m just trying to figure out is this normal for the scat packs or is something wrong?
A little bit of ticking is normal at cold startup for these hemis but certainly not with it at temperature driving down the road, that’s definitely a problem I like the oil change suggestions but being that you’ve had the car a week I myself would take it right back to the dealer and let them deal with it. Have them change the oil and filter making sure they use the correct stuff you shouldn’t have to do it yourself they should’ve done it before delivery to you JMO. Good luck and let us know what happens.
 

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So I have a 2016 challenger Scat Pack with about 30K miles on it. I’ve owned it for about a week but the other day it’s started ticking. Sometimes it’s noticeable and sometimes is not but last night
I could hear it from inside the car while driving coming from the passenger side. Especially during acceleration. I’m just trying to figure out is this normal for the scat packs or is something wrong?
Hi ChaseNeil, We see that you have received some great advice from your fellow forum members! However, if these suggestions do not address your concern and you decide to visit your dealer, our team would be happy to offer additional assistance throughout that process! We are available via private message!
Rob
DodgeCares
 

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Could it be the canister purge valve that you are hearing? They tick at about 10 Hz and are more noticeable in cooler temps and for the first several minutes after startup.
 

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Could it be the canister purge valve that you are hearing? They tick at about 10 Hz and are more noticeable in cooler temps and for the first several minutes after startup.
Never heard of it, where’s that located I’ll check mine out I hate that ticking noise
 

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Granted this may not be your problem!

The elusive ticking clicking noise, mine sounded like it was coming from the front passenger side wheel, took it off checked it thoroughly, even slightly bent the rear rotor dust plate cover back a little to give more clearance, checked the wheel bearing for looseness, and it still made the noise.

Riding with my wife it started again, but she said it sounded like it was coming from under the dash close to the base of the steering column, we swapped off drivers and from the passenger side she was right it did sound like where she said, but from the drivers seat she said it was the front passenger wheel?

The ticking clicking did change sound when the car was steered left to right, and as long as the sound was there my confidence driving the car was not 100%, and I became very cautious to the point the fun was just not there and had been replaced with concern.

That put me on a search to find where it was coming from and thoroughly investigating the wheels, I was confident that the wheels were not just going to fall off, so my trust in the car increased but the sound continued and gradually got worse. One night my wife and I had gone out for supper and backing out of the restaurant the front drivers side wheel when I hit the brakes made a grinding sound, at least that sound warned me something was wrong and took the car home. It made no more noise after we left the restaurant and the next day after inspecting the brake pads to discover they were OK? I had been considering upgrade the brakes so I made the decision to go ahead and do it and change out the pads and rotors to a higher performance set.

Ordered a set of Z23s and the day I was going to do the change over, since the drivers wheel had made the grinding sound, I started there. When I got everything off down to the wheel bearing hub assembly, I rotated the outer hub and it was stiff feeling not loose, I got enough pressure to spin it and heard the clicking, well that brought my new brake installation to a screeching halt. Ordered wheel bearing hub assemblies for both sides in the front, replaced them with brand new MOOG assemblies, perfect fit.

The clicking sound was echoing underneath the hood, from the drivers seat it sounded like it was the front passenger wheel, from the passenger seat it sounded like the drivers wheel area? My 2015 has over 55,000 miles on it, there is more to the story, but I am not writing a book, although, I actually could from all my Challenger upgrades seeing as how I did it all, except the mounting tires to rims, and wheel alignment.

Ry
 
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It took me a while to find the time to look for the CPS valve on my 2019 6.4L. Today was super nice outside so I took some photos and a video that I'll post on youtube, then I'll come back and update this with a link. The canister purge valve is part of the evaporative control system. It's a small 14V solenoid valve that allows the electronic throttle valve (ETC) to suck fuel vapor from the purge canister. Fuel vapor is collected by the purge canister while parked. The canister is a charcoal filled can that collects fuel vapor from the fuel tank.

In older cars, the purge valve was typically a linear solenoid meaning that it could be opened gradually. They didn't audibly click because the drive signal was typically 200Hz and the valve was controlled by varying the dutycycle of the signal. The valve moved softly so you would never hear it. If you could put your ear directly onto it, you would hear the 200Hz hum.

In newer cars, the linear solenoid has been replaced by the so-called digital CPS valve which is cheaper to manufacture and is a simple on/off valve. The linear valve had about 4 to 6 mm of travel and a tapered armature and seat. The further it opened, the more flow. The digital valve is only fully open or closed, no definable in-between. The average flow volume is determined by the overall dutycycle or on-time (open) with respect to off-time (closed). The typical operating frequency is around 16 Hz but the valve can work from 10Hz to about 40Hz. The digital CPS valve has a small hard rubber tip on its armature and it tends to harden in cold weather so when the car starts up cold, the CPS is louder than normal and that's when people are most likely to hear it.

Purge typically happens only for a few minutes after startup and then reduces greatly or stops. In other words, don't let the noise get to you. It doesn't go on forever.

If anyone is considering tampering with the CPS, I highly advise against that. Purge is critical to the EVAP system. Disconnecting the CPS valve electrical connector would leave the vehicle without any purge at all. Certainly, this will trip the check-engine light. By passing the valve would certainly flood the engine with purge flow and cause severe stalling and lugging that would never end. The reason the CPS valve operates at a reduced dutycycle and at a high frequency of movement is to provide a controlled average amount of flow. The ECU stops purging during acceleration and resumes when the engine is near idle or at a constant speed. Several sensors are monitoring this behavior... so do not mess with it or you'll be sorry.

I will provide a link to some photos and a video soon.

Just a note, for anyone who wonders, I have been an electronics engineer for the past 26 years working on evap product development for Siemens -> Siemens-VDO -> Continental -> Vitesco Technologies. This has been constant employment. Just the company name has changed several times over the years. My function has included creating many prototype level electronic drivers for linear and digital solenoids (including CPS, PPS linear or proportional purge solenoid, EGR exhaust gas recirculator, ETC electronic throttle valve, GPA general purpose actuator, and more). Speaking of GPA, there's one on the rear of the intake manifold on your 6.4L engine. It moves the runner valves inside the manifold. I helped design the GPA and the electronics within it. I also programmed it, both prototype and production level code. And no, I'm not allowed to share the source code. That's company IP. But I have to admit that I'm a little proud of the fact that there's a little of myself in every Challenger and Charger (and other Dodge vehicles, and GM, and others).

Bill B.
 

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You know what? I said in my video that the CPS valve was located somewhere else on the 5.7L but now I'm not sure. I know on previous years, it was mounted closer to the ECU and was in plain sight, not like in 2019 where it's down behind the motor (behind the car's right hand valve cover). So yeah, I can only vouch for the car that I own, the '19 6.4L.

I saw another post here showing location on a 392 that's described as 2015+ but obviously it has moved since then. In that post, it looks like where I've seen it on a 5.7L so now I'm wondering if the CPS valve is in the same location on both engines but location depends entirely on the model year.

Bill B.
 
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