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Knight of the black asphalt.
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There are always threads in regards to lowering our cars, either with springs or coilers. However there is never any information about alignments after the fact. I want to take a moment to share and explain what I have learned about the combination of the two.

This thread will apply to 2015 and 2016 R/T and possibly previous R/T if the specifications are the same. I will not consider SRT's and Hellcats due to there adjustable suspension as I did not research the specifications or how the adjustability effects alignment.

I lowered my car with the Eibach Pro Kit. Eibach claims 0.8 inches in the front and 1.3 inches in the rear. Let's say for the sake of argument 1 inch and 1.5 inches respectively. Realizing all alignment measurements could vary with each car so use the measurements as approximates. The springs were installed by a professional mechanic who is very savvy in suspension setup and the alignment was performed by a shop that is uses to aligning mom's grocery getter to a full on race car. I felt comfortable with each shop that worked on the car. The Eibach Pro Kit is the only suspension modification I have done to my car.

Photo one will indicate the primary angles for the front caster, camber and toe. It will also indicate the rear camber and toe angles. Let's focus on the primary angles only. There are columns for initial angles, specifications and final angles. These final angles are as close as the technician could obtain. He did mention these angles are a happy medium for someone who wants to track there car and also use it as a daily driver. There will be an almost unnoticeable amount of advert tire ware. These final result don't require after market upper adjustable control arm, rear adjustable bushing set or a lower adjustable control arm bolt kit. The after market upper adjustable control arm has an adjustment of +- 2.00 degrees. The aftermarket rear adjustable bushing is a clocked designed with an offset hole. The after market lower adjustable control arm bolt has an adjustment of +- 0.3 degrees. As you cans see by using the Eibach Pro Kit these suspension parts were not required.



IMG_1545.jpg


Photo two represents a snot shot of the computer. These are the results of front caster, camber and toe prior to the photo one being printed. This reports a better visual of the results.

IMG_1541.jpg


Photo three represents a snap shot of the computer. These are the results of the rear camber and toe prior to photo one being printed.

IMG_1543.jpg


It's plain to see that the slightest amount of lowering will effect your alignment. Our car have no camber adjustment, and very little caster and toe adjustment. Lowering your car will no doubt require more suspension modifications. The upper adjustable control arms are about $300 per side. The off set rear bushings are about $65 for the set.

There are three kinds of people. 1. I don't care about performance, I just want the car to look super cool. 2. I care about how the car looks and I care about performance. 3. I only care about performance. You need to consider where you are in this spectrum. Once you realize that it should be easier for you to determine how much work you want to do to your suspension.

It is a fact that if you lower your car greater than let's say 2 inches you will effect ride quality and tire ware unless you take the steps to get your alignment into specification. These steps are most likely going to be adjustable upper control arms. If a person says after they lowered the car 3 inches that is feels great and "rides like it is on rails" is making a subjective statement. Get is on an alignment rack and see where you initial results are.

I wrote this thread for objective educational purposes. I welcome all objective opinions. If your going to state you lowered your car 4 inches and you have no problems, back it up with a vehicle alignment report. I would love to see it. Many members know more that me about suspension and alignments so I welcome there input as well.

Moderators, If you feel this thread should be posted in the knowledge based section please move it to there.

-Mike-
 

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Mike, what's a "snot shot"? Just messin' you of course. Thanks for the info. and issues raised. All important things to consider when lowering.
 

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Knight of the black asphalt.
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Discussion Starter #4

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Knight of the black asphalt.
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Mike, what's a "snot shot"? Just messin' you of course. Thanks for the info. and issues raised. All important things to consider when lowering.
No matter how many times I read it I did not see snot shot. I could send you a video of what a snot shot is if you like. LOL!
 

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2014 SRT-8
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No it's fine.I looked quickly the first time.The right caster should be a tad more positive to track straight which it is.My bad.
 

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Knight of the black asphalt.
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Discussion Starter #7
Update. I did find the adjustable upper control arms on line for $165 per side.
 

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Update. I did find the adjustable upper control arms on line for $165 per side.

You're spot on with this post. I lowered mine with BC Coilovers and have to do the "rest". Where did you find the upper control arms for $165?
 
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Great post Mike. IMO we are all very excited to MOD our cars snd make it our own. The other thing I would like to see if would be possible is someone who could post before and after track times with the suspension mods. Mike makes are great point about what you really want from your mods. Looks over performance or does it really matter. The other question is are you really going to drive your car in such a manner where the changes are really a benefit?
 
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Lots of good info Mike. Nice and informative write up. Thinking about dropping my SP later this year.
 
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There are always threads in regards to lowering our cars, either with springs or coilers. However there is never any information about alignments after the fact. I want to take a moment to share and explain what I have learned about the combination of the two.

This thread will apply to 2015 and 2016 R/T and possibly previous R/T if the specifications are the same. I will not consider SRT's and Hellcats due to there adjustable suspension as I did not research the specifications or how the adjustability effects alignment.

I lowered my car with the Eibach Pro Kit. Eibach claims 0.8 inches in the front and 1.3 inches in the rear. Let's say for the sake of argument 1 inch and 1.5 inches respectively. Realizing all alignment measurements could vary with each car so use the measurements as approximates. The springs were installed by a professional mechanic who is very savvy in suspension setup and the alignment was performed by a shop that is uses to aligning mom's grocery getter to a full on race car. I felt comfortable with each shop that worked on the car. The Eibach Pro Kit is the only suspension modification I have done to my car.

Photo one will indicate the primary angles for the front caster, camber and toe. It will also indicate the rear camber and toe angles. Let's focus on the primary angles only. There are columns for initial angles, specifications and final angles. These final angles are as close as the technician could obtain. He did mention these angles are a happy medium for someone who wants to track there car and also use it as a daily driver. There will be an almost unnoticeable amount of advert tire ware. These final result don't require after market upper adjustable control arm, rear adjustable bushing set or a lower adjustable control arm bolt kit. The after market upper adjustable control arm has an adjustment of +- 2.00 degrees. The aftermarket rear adjustable bushing is a clocked designed with an offset hole. The after market lower adjustable control arm bolt has an adjustment of +- 0.3 degrees. As you cans see by using the Eibach Pro Kit these suspension parts were not required.



View attachment 70267

Photo two represents a snot shot of the computer. These are the results of front caster, camber and toe prior to the photo one being printed. This reports a better visual of the results.

View attachment 70275

Photo three represents a snap shot of the computer. These are the results of the rear camber and toe prior to photo one being printed.

View attachment 70281

It's plain to see that the slightest amount of lowering will effect your alignment. Our car have no camber adjustment, and very little caster and toe adjustment. Lowering your car will no doubt require more suspension modifications. The upper adjustable control arms are about $300 per side. The off set rear bushings are about $65 for the set.

There are three kinds of people. 1. I don't care about performance, I just want the car to look super cool. 2. I care about how the car looks and I care about performance. 3. I only care about performance. You need to consider where you are in this spectrum. Once you realize that it should be easier for you to determine how much work you want to do to your suspension.

It is a fact that if you lower your car greater than let's say 2 inches you will effect ride quality and tire ware unless you take the steps to get your alignment into specification. These steps are most likely going to be adjustable upper control arms. If a person says after they lowered the car 3 inches that is feels great and "rides like it is on rails" is making a subjective statement. Get is on an alignment rack and see where you initial results are.

I wrote this thread for objective educational purposes. I welcome all objective opinions. If your going to state you lowered your car 4 inches and you have no problems, back it up with a vehicle alignment report. I would love to see it. Many members know more that me about suspension and alignments so I welcome there input as well.

Moderators, If you feel this thread should be posted in the knowledge based section please move it to there.

-Mike-
No matter how many times I read it I did not see snot shot. I could send you a video of what a snot shot is if you like. LOL!
There are always threads in regards to lowering our cars, either with springs or coilers. However there is never any information about alignments after the fact. I want to take a moment to share and explain what I have learned about the combination of the two.

This thread will apply to 2015 and 2016 R/T and possibly previous R/T if the specifications are the same. I will not consider SRT's and Hellcats due to there adjustable suspension as I did not research the specifications or how the adjustability effects alignment.

I lowered my car with the Eibach Pro Kit. Eibach claims 0.8 inches in the front and 1.3 inches in the rear. Let's say for the sake of argument 1 inch and 1.5 inches respectively. Realizing all alignment measurements could vary with each car so use the measurements as approximates. The springs were installed by a professional mechanic who is very savvy in suspension setup and the alignment was performed by a shop that is uses to aligning mom's grocery getter to a full on race car. I felt comfortable with each shop that worked on the car. The Eibach Pro Kit is the only suspension modification I have done to my car.

Photo one will indicate the primary angles for the front caster, camber and toe. It will also indicate the rear camber and toe angles. Let's focus on the primary angles only. There are columns for initial angles, specifications and final angles. These final angles are as close as the technician could obtain. He did mention these angles are a happy medium for someone who wants to track there car and also use it as a daily driver. There will be an almost unnoticeable amount of advert tire ware. These final result don't require after market upper adjustable control arm, rear adjustable bushing set or a lower adjustable control arm bolt kit. The after market upper adjustable control arm has an adjustment of +- 2.00 degrees. The aftermarket rear adjustable bushing is a clocked designed with an offset hole. The after market lower adjustable control arm bolt has an adjustment of +- 0.3 degrees. As you cans see by using the Eibach Pro Kit these suspension parts were not required.



View attachment 70267

Photo two represents a snot shot of the computer. These are the results of front caster, camber and toe prior to the photo one being printed. This reports a better visual of the results.

View attachment 70275

Photo three represents a snap shot of the computer. These are the results of the rear camber and toe prior to photo one being printed.

View attachment 70281

It's plain to see that the slightest amount of lowering will effect your alignment. Our car have no camber adjustment, and very little caster and toe adjustment. Lowering your car will no doubt require more suspension modifications. The upper adjustable control arms are about $300 per side. The off set rear bushings are about $65 for the set.

There are three kinds of people. 1. I don't care about performance, I just want the car to look super cool. 2. I care about how the car looks and I care about performance. 3. I only care about performance. You need to consider where you are in this spectrum. Once you realize that it should be easier for you to determine how much work you want to do to your suspension.

It is a fact that if you lower your car greater than let's say 2 inches you will effect ride quality and tire ware unless you take the steps to get your alignment into specification. These steps are most likely going to be adjustable upper control arms. If a person says after they lowered the car 3 inches that is feels great and "rides like it is on rails" is making a subjective statement. Get is on an alignment rack and see where you initial results are.

I wrote this thread for objective educational purposes. I welcome all objective opinions. If your going to state you lowered your car 4 inches and you have no problems, back it up with a vehicle alignment report. I would love to see it. Many members know more that me about suspension and alignments so I welcome there input as well.

Moderators, If you feel this thread should be posted in the knowledge based section please move it to there.

-Mike-
Photo two represents a snot shot of the computer. These are the results of front caster, camber and toe prior to
 

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Knight of the black asphalt.
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Discussion Starter #13

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Knight of the black asphalt.
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Mike, so with the pro kit you did need an alignment?
It was slightly out of spec. The adjustments to the caster and toe will make a big difference in tire ware and handling. The first picture illustrated the initial specs, the range and the final specs.
 

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No matter how many times I read it I did not see snot shot. I could send you a video of what a snot shot is if you like. LOL!
Whoa!!!!

LOL!!!!
 
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Ordered my control arms today !:)
 
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Great write up Mike. This is something most of us have considered I am sure of it.
 

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Knight of the black asphalt.
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After they are installed I would like to know your alignment results.
Definitely. In my ignorance I thought I could have the car aligned after I put on my coilovers. They aligned it the best they could and charged me half price. I knew I needed these adjustable arms. Thanks for inspiring me with your post and finding the good price.
 
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