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There are always threads in regards to lowering our cars, either with springs or coilers. However there is never any information about alignments after the fact. I want to take a moment to share and explain what I have learned about the combination of the two.
This thread will apply to 2015 and 2016 R/T and possibly previous R/T if the specifications are the same. I will not consider SRT's and Hellcats due to there adjustable suspension as I did not research the specifications or how the adjustability effects alignment.
I lowered my car with the Eibach Pro Kit. Eibach claims 0.8 inches in the front and 1.3 inches in the rear. Let's say for the sake of argument 1 inch and 1.5 inches respectively. Realizing all alignment measurements could vary with each car so use the measurements as approximates. The springs were installed by a professional mechanic who is very savvy in suspension setup and the alignment was performed by a shop that is uses to aligning mom's grocery getter to a full on race car. I felt comfortable with each shop that worked on the car. The Eibach Pro Kit is the only suspension modification I have done to my car.
Photo one will indicate the primary angles for the front caster, camber and toe. It will also indicate the rear camber and toe angles. Let's focus on the primary angles only. There are columns for initial angles, specifications and final angles. These final angles are as close as the technician could obtain. He did mention these angles are a happy medium for someone who wants to track there car and also use it as a daily driver. There will be an almost unnoticeable amount of advert tire ware. These final result don't require after market upper adjustable control arm, rear adjustable bushing set or a lower adjustable control arm bolt kit. The after market upper adjustable control arm has an adjustment of +- 2.00 degrees. The aftermarket rear adjustable bushing is a clocked designed with an offset hole. The after market lower adjustable control arm bolt has an adjustment of +- 0.3 degrees. As you cans see by using the Eibach Pro Kit these suspension parts were not required.
![IMG_1545.jpg]()
Photo two represents a snot shot of the computer. These are the results of front caster, camber and toe prior to the photo one being printed. This reports a better visual of the results.
![IMG_1541.jpg]()
Photo three represents a snap shot of the computer. These are the results of the rear camber and toe prior to photo one being printed.
![IMG_1543.jpg]()
It's plain to see that the slightest amount of lowering will effect your alignment. Our car have no camber adjustment, and very little caster and toe adjustment. Lowering your car will no doubt require more suspension modifications. The upper adjustable control arms are about $300 per side. The off set rear bushings are about $65 for the set.
There are three kinds of people. 1. I don't care about performance, I just want the car to look super cool. 2. I care about how the car looks and I care about performance. 3. I only care about performance. You need to consider where you are in this spectrum. Once you realize that it should be easier for you to determine how much work you want to do to your suspension.
It is a fact that if you lower your car greater than let's say 2 inches you will effect ride quality and tire ware unless you take the steps to get your alignment into specification. These steps are most likely going to be adjustable upper control arms. If a person says after they lowered the car 3 inches that is feels great and "rides like it is on rails" is making a subjective statement. Get is on an alignment rack and see where you initial results are.
I wrote this thread for objective educational purposes. I welcome all objective opinions. If your going to state you lowered your car 4 inches and you have no problems, back it up with a vehicle alignment report. I would love to see it. Many members know more that me about suspension and alignments so I welcome there input as well.
Moderators, If you feel this thread should be posted in the knowledge based section please move it to there.
-Mike-
This thread will apply to 2015 and 2016 R/T and possibly previous R/T if the specifications are the same. I will not consider SRT's and Hellcats due to there adjustable suspension as I did not research the specifications or how the adjustability effects alignment.
I lowered my car with the Eibach Pro Kit. Eibach claims 0.8 inches in the front and 1.3 inches in the rear. Let's say for the sake of argument 1 inch and 1.5 inches respectively. Realizing all alignment measurements could vary with each car so use the measurements as approximates. The springs were installed by a professional mechanic who is very savvy in suspension setup and the alignment was performed by a shop that is uses to aligning mom's grocery getter to a full on race car. I felt comfortable with each shop that worked on the car. The Eibach Pro Kit is the only suspension modification I have done to my car.
Photo one will indicate the primary angles for the front caster, camber and toe. It will also indicate the rear camber and toe angles. Let's focus on the primary angles only. There are columns for initial angles, specifications and final angles. These final angles are as close as the technician could obtain. He did mention these angles are a happy medium for someone who wants to track there car and also use it as a daily driver. There will be an almost unnoticeable amount of advert tire ware. These final result don't require after market upper adjustable control arm, rear adjustable bushing set or a lower adjustable control arm bolt kit. The after market upper adjustable control arm has an adjustment of +- 2.00 degrees. The aftermarket rear adjustable bushing is a clocked designed with an offset hole. The after market lower adjustable control arm bolt has an adjustment of +- 0.3 degrees. As you cans see by using the Eibach Pro Kit these suspension parts were not required.
Photo two represents a snot shot of the computer. These are the results of front caster, camber and toe prior to the photo one being printed. This reports a better visual of the results.
Photo three represents a snap shot of the computer. These are the results of the rear camber and toe prior to photo one being printed.
It's plain to see that the slightest amount of lowering will effect your alignment. Our car have no camber adjustment, and very little caster and toe adjustment. Lowering your car will no doubt require more suspension modifications. The upper adjustable control arms are about $300 per side. The off set rear bushings are about $65 for the set.
There are three kinds of people. 1. I don't care about performance, I just want the car to look super cool. 2. I care about how the car looks and I care about performance. 3. I only care about performance. You need to consider where you are in this spectrum. Once you realize that it should be easier for you to determine how much work you want to do to your suspension.
It is a fact that if you lower your car greater than let's say 2 inches you will effect ride quality and tire ware unless you take the steps to get your alignment into specification. These steps are most likely going to be adjustable upper control arms. If a person says after they lowered the car 3 inches that is feels great and "rides like it is on rails" is making a subjective statement. Get is on an alignment rack and see where you initial results are.
I wrote this thread for objective educational purposes. I welcome all objective opinions. If your going to state you lowered your car 4 inches and you have no problems, back it up with a vehicle alignment report. I would love to see it. Many members know more that me about suspension and alignments so I welcome there input as well.
Moderators, If you feel this thread should be posted in the knowledge based section please move it to there.
-Mike-
