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Discussion Starter #1
I removed the mid mufflers on my 2016 Scat Pack at around 100 miles and around 400-500 miles my check engine light went on. I took it to the dealership today and the codes that showed up were U113F and U1140F - LOST COMMUNICATION WITH ACTIVE EXHAUST VALVE 1 & 2. They are telling me that because the mid mufflers are removed it's throwing the light on....is this possible? The mid mufflers are not connected to anything and I did not remove the rear resonators, active exhaust valves, anything. Simply had the muffler shop cut out the mid mufflers and weld in the straight pipe. Anyone else had this issue when they removed the mid mufflers on their car?
 

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I removed my mid mufflers the first week.... no codes... removed my resonators the second week... no codes... ever.

I have 3900 miles now ....
 

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I have 36,000 miles on my mid muffler delete with No code ever. Active exhaust still functions flawlessly. Did you find issue?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
No - I haven't had time to crawl under the back and look at the wiring. I really hope it's something simple...correct me if I'm wrong but....starting from the back of the car....there are mufflers right after the exhaust tips, then you run back past the axle there are the active exhaust sensors and right after those are the mid mufflers, right? I had the ones right in front of the active exhaust sensors removed and replaced with straight pipe. Those are the right ones to replace, correct?
 

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I removed my mid mufflers the first week.... no codes... removed my resonators the second week... no codes... ever.

I have 3900 miles now ....
You now have as many miles as I do LOL !!!
 

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I think it sounds like the shop was trying to get out of replacing anything under warrantee and trying to point fingers. I have replaced every single piece of my exhaust system other than the active exhaust valves and that included long tube headers with no codes.
 

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Ok - so I finally had a chance on Saturday to take a look at the car and try to figure out what was going on. Since the computer was not getting a signal from either exhaust valve, I decided to start with the fuse to the valves. Here's a few pics in case you haven't dug around in your trunk much.

When you lift the carpet to access where a spare tire should be, you'll find the battery on the right and the rear fuse box directly below it. I had already removed the plastic top on the fuse box when I snapped this picture.



Underneath the fuse box top, you'll find the fuse for the exhaust valves is fuse number 36 - 15amps.



Looking at the location diagram underneath the fuse box top as well - you can see it's in a row that starts with fuse 31 and ends with fuse 38. So this fuse should be the 3rd from the top in the row and 15 amps.



There she is:





And the verdict on whether the fuse was bad - GUILTY!



So I ran over to Autozone, picked up some fuses, replaced the fuse, disconnected the battery to reset the check engine light and took a 50 mile "test" cruise to make sure it didn't go back off again. Then it was Miller Time. I put 250 miles on it yesterday and no check engine light issues. I suspect that when the straight pipe was being welded in it popped the fuse. So far so good :)

 

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Ok - so I finally had a chance on Saturday to take a look at the car and try to figure out what was going on. Since the computer was not getting a signal from either exhaust valve, I decided to start with the fuse to the valves. Here's a few pics in case you haven't dug around in your trunk much.

When you lift the carpet to access where a spare tire should be, you'll find the battery on the right and the rear fuse box directly below it. I had already removed the plastic top on the fuse box when I snapped this picture.



Underneath the fuse box top, you'll find the fuse for the exhaust valves is fuse number 36 - 15amps.



Looking at the location diagram underneath the fuse box top as well - you can see it's in a row that starts with fuse 31 and ends with fuse 38. So this fuse should be the 3rd from the top in the row and 15 amps.



There she is:





And the verdict on whether the fuse was bad - GUILTY!



So I ran over to Autozone, picked up some fuses, replaced the fuse, disconnected the battery to reset the check engine light and took a 50 mile "test" cruise to make sure it didn't go back off again. Then it was Miller Time. I put 250 miles on it yesterday and no check engine light issues. I suspect that when the straight pipe was being welded in it popped the fuse. So far so good :)

I'd call your Dealership and inform them that they are idiots! Well done bro.
 
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