[Sinister_R/T]

I was wondering if anyone has done this or knows if it can be de done. I currently have the none functioning factory T/A style hood on my 2010 R/T. I understand that in order to make it work I need to cut the hood and install the kit from MOPAR to route the air into the CAI. I am set on installing a Magnacharger on the car this winter. I would like to have the hood scoop work with the S/C, but I don't know if there is enough room above the S/C to still be able to shut the hood. If anyone has done this or has pictures of it installed with a Magnacharger please send them my way! I don't want to go and cut the hood only to find out it doesn't work once the blower is installed. Thanks as always for any info!!!!!!

 

[B5RT]

I was wondering if anyone has done this or knows if it can be de done. I currently have the none functioning factory T/A style hood on my 2010 R/T. I understand that in order to make it work I need to cut the hood and install the kit from MOPAR to route the air into the CAI. I am set on installing a Magnacharger on the car this winter. I would like to have the hood scoop work with the S/C, but I don't know if there is enough room above the S/C to still be able to shut the hood. If anyone has done this or has pictures of it installed with a Magnacharger please send them my way! I don't want to go and cut the hood only to find out it doesn't work once the blower is installed. Thanks as always for any info!!!!!!

There was a guy on the "other" forum that had a Magnacharger installed on his Hurst B5 Challenger w TA hood (basically went from a stage 2 to a stage 3 Hurst). The pully hit the underhood airbox. He used a heat gun/hair dryer to warm up the plastic on the underhood airbox, repeatedly closing the hood, until he got the clearance he needed. He may have also been on this forum, I'm not sure. Search leebaker. As I recall, he did post pics of what he did, to get it to work.

 

[Sinister_R/T]

Ok that at least give me some hope that it's not a complete clusterf**k. I looked on the other sites and I could not find n e pictures but I understand how to fix the fit. THANKS!!!!

 

[B5RT]

PM sent.:smileup:

 

[ply67cuda]

Its very doable. I have a T/A hood and have been working with HHP in DE to plan out my engine build. Both the KB and the Maggie will fit under the profile. I have opened up my T/A hood with the MOPAR hood vent system. It comes with perforated grilles and all of the under hood ducting to port it over to your CAI.

So while its doable in terms of clearnace, its not very doable in terms of "would you want to". The problem with the notion of using a fully opened up T/A hood and plumbing it direct into your S/C intake is airflow volume. The perforated front grille openings are not large enough to admit the airflow volume you need at WOT unless you add additional openings into the scoop (such as vents or throttle actuated butterfly valves on the side of the scoop)

The other issue is that on a Maggie the intake port is on the front of the engine so in essence you will have to port the scoop air 180 degrees in the opposite direction (towards the front, and then angle it around into the intake tube. Given everything else there its not a lot of room so you will have to restrict the size of the plumbing - again running into the airflow restriction issue. Even if you could manage that, you are then introducing yet another 180 degree to get the air into the S/C (think of it as a paperclip configuration for the entire set up and you'll get the idea).

Also - given engine bay temps, you dont really want to have the cold outside air routed across a hot engine (raising air intake temps). With a Maggie or Whipple set up you will have to deal with that sub-optimal arrangement.

If you use a KB you have a better shot because the intake port for the mammoth air intake pipe is rear mounted on the S/C and angled over towards the side, so if you were to custom fabricate plumbing from the scoop underside you dont have the 180 turn to deal with, more like a 90 downward and 45 degree cant towards the driver side to feed into the intake plate. The initial issue of T/A inlet grille port size is still a limiting factor however. Unless you want to delete the front grilles entirely and just go with the raw openings (ugly). If you are going that route I would get a different hood scoop design entirely.

Hope that helps.

P.S. If you have ashock tower brace you may have issues with the Maggie (although there are some out there that will clear it, and more than likely to have issues with the KB. I beleive there is one out there that will fit it, but most wont.

 

[B5RT]

I don't think he'll have any issues with getting enough air, because, if he has the complete MOPAR kit, including the MOPAR CAI for a 2010, it is not completely sealed to the airbox. Even ones like the Rotofab, C&L, etc allow air from in front and underneath the car to their sealed airboxes, so air is not limited to just what comes in from the TA scoop alone. His only issue will be where the pulley contacts the MOPAR underhood airbox, which connects the scoop to the CAI, which I hope have provided a fix for. :smileup:

 

[10DYRT]

I am planning to go with the Maggie S/C over the winter. Currently I have the Mopar T/A hood and the ducting to my CAI. Already had to trim down the top of the Airaid filter surround and heat up the ducting with a heat gun so the hood would close with out any problems. Air volume is not going to be an issue as the "air box" is open to the fender and the bottom hole. Just need to know what the "fix" is.
How much clearance is there between the top of the Maggie and the Mopar ducting kit?
Kind of worried about excessive heat warping the ducting.

 

[ply67cuda]

All - agree that airflow is not an issue if you leave an accessible CAI. What i was referring to was directly porting the scoop air flow in a sealed path right into the S/C intake with no other air sources.