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Need paint tips for coolant reservoir

2K views 14 replies 8 participants last post by  TexasRT 
#1 ·
I am going to finally paint mine and have a question.

I planned to scuff it, clean it, and then put down some adhesion promoter, then some sandable primer, then the color coats and clear coats.

Now, the question - given the heat factor -- should I use engine paint, or something very heat resistant or just a "normal" paint?

Anyone have any firsthand experience?
 
#2 ·
If I remember correctly, Orangepearlrtsteve did a bunch of stuff like this and has some painitng tips he put together in a thread somewhere. Might want to PM him. Here is his profile page

http://www.challengerforumz.com/member.php?u=17477

And Steve, if it wasnt you I was remembering, sorry for all the spam you are about to get - lol!
 
#4 ·
Hope you did the clear coat within the allotted amount of time. If not, you may find it peeling off.
 
#6 ·
Well it looks like you did a great job of prep and paint, hopefully the clear will be fine.
 
#7 ·
I painted mine with duplicolor two years ago and no issues yet...I bought a second tank from my dealer - about 65 bucks so I was able to cut down on down time. Had the new one painted and ready to go before I discoNected any lines...
 
#8 ·
Sigh... I completely spaced that out. I waited WAY too long, about 16 hours. I guess it becomes a science experiment to see it holds. If not, it will be a painful sand and redo job. :shakehead:
All may not be lost. Let it completely cure, maybe 7 days, then lightly scuff wit a gray scotchbrite pad and then try clearing it.

Although I know you want to put it on and drive!
 
#9 ·
I had already laid down the clear at about 16 hours after the color.

It looks really nice, are you saying let the clear fully cure for a week -- rescuff lightly and shoot another coat of clear?

I am ok with the wait, since I bought a tank to do this...so I am not Challenger-challenged during the wait.
 
#10 ·
:smileup: You have the steps correct, I used the Chrysler Billet Silver touch-up paint in a spray can. It's been 2 or 3 years, I think, and it's still silver although it is very slightly discolored from heat. No peeling though.
A dark color shouldn't show any changes, KeysB5Blue did hers in black not too long after I did mine. Reps for giving it a try.
 
#12 ·
Ok... since this is obviously not my strong area....better ask.

Do I need to buff through the existing clear down to the paint before reshooting the clear?

If not, how does laying another coat of clear stop the existing one from coming up?

I am such a noob in this area... I am playing the "there are no dumb questions" card. :doh:
 
#13 · (Edited)
You do have the steps correct. Usually if you wait too long, the main concern is that you have to re-scuff the parts for the clear to bond. Back to the origonal question, no you don't need high heat paint on this part, it doesn't get hot enough to worry about. I've always just used model car paints (Testors) on my top engine parts, (mainly because they have the coolest colors, candies, etc.). They don't get that hot, and I've never have an issue with lifting, been using it for over 30 years.. I painted this engine cover and shock covers with 4 different cans of tiny Testors model car paint, (Silver Pearl, Blue Pearl, Black and Clear.) waited a week, then just waxed the heck out of it. I drive it everyday and it still shines like new.

 
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