[JTK]

Hey guys so I'm just looking for some advice as to how people have added aftermarket subs and amps in these cars. I have a 12" alpine type r and a hifonics amp sitting around so I was planning on building a simple box just to add a little bass and fill out the sound. Wiring the power and ground is a no brainer with our rear mounted batteries, but what do you guys suggest for the remote turn-on wire and RCA's? I've seen people recommend using a line output converter (specifically http://www.crutchfield.com/p_161LC2I/AudioControl-LC2i.html?tp=61671), but which wires would I tap into for this? Rear deck speakers or could I tap into the factory sub wires? And also what would be the easiest ignition switched +12v wire to use as my turn-on? Thanks in advance

 

[SacTownMan]

LC2i is the only way to do this. Tap into the sub line and run this into the left input on the LC2i. It has GTO circuitry to send the "turn on" signal to the amp. That only leaves power to the sub amp and LC2i. In line fuse for the sub amp and the 2 amp LC2i fuse can be tapped into in the small fuse box near the battery using a fuse tap.

Use the fuse that is for the cig lighter




Get the Bass control for the LC2i it makes a big difference being able to adjust the level

 

[JTK]

I actually finished up installing this over the weekend. I used the LC2i and tapped off the rear deck speakers, it seems to work perfectly. Is there any benefit to going off of the stock subwoofer? But either way, the LC2i unit was most certainly worth the money and I'm loving every second of having some bass back in the car.

 

[JTK]

 

[VroomVroom]

I actually finished up installing this over the weekend. I used the LC2i and tapped off the rear deck speakers, it seems to work perfectly. Is there any benefit to going off of the stock subwoofer? But either way, the LC2i unit was most certainly worth the money and I'm loving every second of having some bass back in the car.

I'm not 100% sure about how this particular stereo output is, but I believe that the sub's line is only transmitting the low frequencies to the sub while your rear deck speakers are receiving a much broader spectrum. So what your sub will sound like connected to your rear speakers will then be dictated by your set-up. With that being said, think about it as if you were to wire your sub directly into your rear deck speaker line with no amp/eq/etc. between - your sub would then act like more of a component speaker with dominant low frequencies...you will hear mids with the bass (because it is still a Subwoofer, after all). Now if you were to tap directly into your factory subwoofer line, the subwoofer would then act as it is designed to. Just the boom booms.

Note: you are likely able to adjust your amp/eq to make it sound just fine from the rear speakers, hell... you may even prefer the sound (I did). Hope This helps!

Edit: Tying into the factory sub actually limits you to the Factory's set cross-over point while using the rear speakers allows u to have the whole spectrum and you can then limit the frequencies from there to your preference (<80Hz recc.)

 

[SacTownMan]

I'm not 100% sure about how this particular stereo output is, but I believe that the sub's line is only transmitting the low frequencies to the sub while your rear deck speakers are receiving a much broader spectrum. So what your sub will sound like connected to your rear speakers will then be dictated by your set-up. With that being said, think about it as if you were to wire your sub directly into your rear deck speaker line with no amp/eq/etc. between - your sub would then act like more of a component speaker with dominant low frequencies...you will hear mids with the bass (because it is still a Subwoofer, after all). Now if you were to tap directly into your factory subwoofer line, the subwoofer would then act as it is designed to. Just the boom booms.

Note: you are likely able to adjust your amp/eq to make it sound just fine from the rear speakers, hell... you may even prefer the sound (I did). Hope This helps!

Edit: Tying into the factory sub actually limits you to the Factory's set cross-over point while using the rear speakers allows u to have the whole spectrum and you can then limit the frequencies from there to your preference (<80Hz recc.)

Problem is you are assuming that the rear speakers are getting a full range signal 20-20,000 Hz. I think the BA SGII system's crossovers in the amp are cutting off the low signal from the rear speakers to send to the sub. This is the first stereo mod I did 2 years ago and tapping into the sub line will guarantee that you are getting the low notes below 120 Hz. If you had the 6 speaker setup or the base stereo then the rears would most likely be getting a full range signal. Without a spectrum analyzer of some sort to check you would be better off using the sub line vs the rears in the 7 speaker setup.
I use a LC8i to grab all 6 channels from the factory amp in my current 3000 watt setup. The bass control knob is a big help with either system.

 

[VroomVroom]

Problem is you are assuming that the rear speakers are getting a full range signal 20-20,000 Hz. I think the BA SGII system's crossovers in the amp are cutting off the low signal from the rear speakers to send to the sub. This is the first stereo mod I did 2 years ago and tapping into the sub line will guarantee that you are getting the low notes below 120 Hz. If you had the 6 speaker setup or the base stereo then the rears would most likely be getting a full range signal. Without a spectrum analyzer of some sort to check you would be better off using the sub line vs the rears in the 7 speaker setup.
I use a LC8i to grab all 6 channels from the factory amp in my current 3000 watt setup. The bass control knob is a big help with either system.

Aaaah... your knowledge of the BA SGII is well beyond mine! I didn't realize the crossover in these cut the low freq. to the rears. :4-dontknow:

 

[tailgunner92]

I tapped into the deck speakers instead of the sub because then I would be able to have stereo lines into my amp. I used a Scoshe (spelling?) line converter from Wal-Mart. It comes with a remote to adjust the 5V voltage signal coming into the amp. We bought a cool LED lighted Dual Bandpass box from a pawnshop. In case anyone is unfamiliar with box types Bandpass boxes are tuned for a certain Hz or note. I set my low-pass crossover on the amp at 80Hz and wired the amp bridged as the box has only one input terminal. The subs sound great as they added that lower oomph we were missing. So I believe the deck speakers do get the full range of frequencies. I will probably get a bass blocker and use the stock sub as a mid-bass driver. I used a fuse tap at the fuse box to an ignition hot for the remote turn on. Don't remember which one, but you can fin one with a multimeter or test light. I will probably get some better subs and make a box later on. Too bad they don't make the old Cerwin-Vegas anymore. I had 2 10"s in a ported box and won a trophy by hitting 137dbls with just 400 watts.

 

[Viper7383]

I used the pac oem1 adapter behind the radio it gave me 4 channel rca output from the stock head unit and ran that into a rockford fosgate 6 channel amp