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Discussion Starter · #41 · (Edited)
Well it looks like more wait time for my drive shaft , They can't tell me for sure how long. Patience, Johnnyreb, patience.

I sure don't want to put in the differential without it. Which I am also still waiting for but they say they'll ship in about a week. I got the wrong one the first time as when I pressed the order button it said this differential won't fit your vehicle, so I order there number. Turns out it was the stock part number. Watch those parts houses they can really foul you up. imagine my surprise when I couldn't see any fins on the housing in the box.

This monster can't leave a stop sign without snapping your neck and leaving a little rubber now. I'm running my pedal commander at city+1. I can't wait to see what it does with the new drive line. I might have to turn down the pedal commander to just city. NOT! Gotta wear out those Michelins.
:giggle:
 

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Well it looks like more wait time for my drive shaft , They can't tell me for sure how long. Patience, Johnnyreb, patience.

I sure don't want to put in the differential without it. Which I am also still waiting for but they say they'll ship in about a week. I got the wrong one the first time as when I pressed the order button it said this differential won't fit your vehicle, so I order there number. Turns out it was the stock part number. Watch those parts houses they can really foul you up. imagine my surprise when I couldn't see any fins on the housing in the box.

This monster can't leave a stop sign without snapping your neck and leaving a little rubber now. I'm running my pedal commander at city+1. I can't wait to see what it does with the new drive line. I might have to turn down the pedal commander to just city. NOT! Gotta wear out those Michelins.
:giggle:
So your limited slip is installed and you're waiting on the one piece driveshaft?

Awesome! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
So your limited slip is installed and you're waiting on the one piece driveshaft?

Awesome! :)
Nope , I had to send the differential back because they sent original equipment 3:07 open, so I sent it back but they said it should ship next week. But its the driveline they can't say for sure when it will ship.
 
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I waited 8 weeks on my driveshaft, are you installing yourself?

If Yes, you need to read over the upgrade driveshaft thread I posted, there is need to know information in that thread.
 
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5.7L HEMI Upgrade to a One Piece Driveshaft.

Pay attention to the rear heat shield information.
You'll have to sort through some of the useless negativity posts in the thread, like don't get the driveshaft it vibrates, which mine never has.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
I waited 8 weeks on my driveshaft, are you installing yourself?

If Yes, you need to read over the upgrade driveshaft thread I posted, there is need to know information in that thread.
Read that Ry In fact i've read the thread at least half a dozen times. Lots of good stuff. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
5.7L HEMI Upgrade to a One Piece Driveshaft.

Pay attention to the rear heat shield information.
You'll have to sort through some of the useless negativity posts in the thread, like don't get the driveshaft it vibrates, which mine never has.
Thanks I was gonna ask do you think I should get two sheets of the heat shield or just one? I am running the magnaflow 3" that you once had. I've got all this stuff bookmarked and am also going with the G force drive shaft safety loop and the bmr differential safety lock out bushing kit.
 

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Thanks I was gonna ask do you think I should get two sheets of the heat shield or just one? I am running the magnaflow 3" that you once had. I've got all this stuff bookmarked and am also going with the G force drive shaft safety loop and the bmr differential safety lock out bushing kit.
They do sell a longer sheet I think it is 24" X 48" adhesive backed, and that one sheet should go all the way across start in the center peak of the shaft alley, do this without the driveshaft in the way and it will be much easier, take your time that adhesive is very sticky once it touches, it sticks, so don't let it touch until you intend for it to stay. You can pre cut, position and form to fit, all you need to before you pull the adhesive backing off, but once you pull the backing what it touches it sticks to. So don't pull the entire backing off all at once, pull some and work into place then pull some more, and work into place, and keep working with it until you have it covered. Use heavy duty leather gloves so you don't cut yourself with the edges, and you can push it into place using the gloves, once it is stuck in place it will stay there, it is far better than the factory heat shield.
 
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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Still waiting on parts, so far I have a differential, and BMR bushing kit. Waiting for a driveline and a safety loop. the Loop should be here next week. Haven't got around to ordering the heat shield yet. No date on the driveline yet.
 
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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Can anyone tell me (of course they can) how much friction modifier I should put in the differential?
Also got the heat shield ordered. I got the larger sheet.
Now I am looking at Per4mance differential brace, Has anyone had any experience with these? They cost $200 bucks so I don't want to waste the money if they aren't any good.

I'm told about 2 more weeks for the drive line now. which is what the website says but I have a commitment.
 

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Can anyone tell me (of course they can) how much friction modifier I should put in the differential?
Also got the heat shield ordered. I got the larger sheet.
Now I am looking at Per4mance differential brace, Has anyone had any experience with these? They cost $200 bucks so I don't want to waste the money if they aren't any good.

I'm told about 2 more weeks for the drive line now. which is what the website says but I have a commitment.
When I did a fluid change in my 2010 I used the Mopar Gear lube and friction modifier and used the entire container of the modifier.
 
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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
When I did a fluid change in my 2010 I used the Mopar Gear lube and friction modifier and used the entire container of the modifier.
So one four ounce bottle should be enough you think? Mopar sells it in 4oz bottles.
 

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So one four ounce bottle should be enough you think? Mopar sells it in 4oz bottles.
yes. You might want to have a fluid transfer pump to fill the differential. I got a manual one cheap. It worked fine.
 
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I have been using the Royal Purple Max Gear, because the friction modifier is already mixed into oil it in the proper mix ratio.

I also use the TBA differential brace it is cheaper and does an excellent job. The only inconvenience of using the TBA is when it comes to changing out the oil you have to remove the brace. I dropped the differential oil when I installed the brace and KUDOS to the Royal Purple there was no metal particles in the oil I screened it through a cloth to check. That was the 2nd time I had dropped the oil the first was after the 500 mile break in which because of conflicting events got extended to 1K miles. Don't forget the break in, it affects how long the new differential will last you, and is very important to properly seat the new driveshaft and axle seals.

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But it is your car use what you want, I am not telling you what to do, just what I did. Ry
 

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I'm told about 2 more weeks for the drive line now. which is what the website says but I have a commitment.
The wait is understandable you only have to have the center support failure happen to you once to loose confidence in the same exact, (Not Improved!), OEM replacement. Simply because you cannot get that failure possibility out of your mind while driving on the new OEM replacement. It will obviously fail again, but when, and how long, until then, and can you still trust and hammer the throttle whenever you want?

Now that more and more OEMs have failed, and other owners are experiencing this failure, many have decided to change to the one piece driveshaft, which has put a much higher demand on production of them. What I respect about DSS is they do not compromise the quality of their product! I would imagine the more that switch to a one piece driveshaft the higher that demand will be, but all good things come to those that wait. You will eventually get yours, and then you can relearn to drive the car! :)

Trust me even just cruising, it is like a completely different car, words cannot explain it but you'll understand once you drive it. Ry
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
The wait is understandable you only have to have the center support failure happen to you once to loose confidence in the same exact, (Not Improved!), OEM replacement. Simply because you cannot get that failure possibility out of your mind while driving on the new OEM replacement. It will obviously fail again, but when, and how long, until then, and can you still trust and hammer the throttle whenever you want?

Now that more and more OEMs have failed, and other owners are experiencing this failure, many have decided to change to the one piece driveshaft, which has put a much higher demand on production of them. What I respect about DSS is they do not compromise the quality of their product! I would imagine the more that switch to a one piece driveshaft the higher that demand will be, but all good things come to those that wait. You will eventually get yours, and then you can relearn to drive the car! :)

Trust me even just cruising, it is like a completely different car, words cannot explain it but you'll understand once you drive it. Ry
Yes I agree and they told me there would be an extended wait time so no complaints from me. I really don't want to experience the carrier failure. I'd be jumping at every click or tic.

The royal purple also sounds like a good Idea as I haven't gotten the modifier yet. It would certainly take the guess work out of the equation.

Seems like I'm way behind on everything, but I only want to do it once.

The TBA brace looks Identical to the Per4mance.except for the color.
 
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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Looks like it's time to get started.:)
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