[Johnnyreb]

Any Update yet?

Yep, we got one Elk with one to go.

Oh, you mean with the differential 😁. Just kidding . It should be done the first part of November.

Explanation; our weather is changing and I didn't want the Challenger down for the final part of driving season as the parts were late to arrive then Hunting season arrived and we have our first winter storm warning today. But it will be done by the first part of November.

It will be like having a brand new hotrod next year as I won't get much of a chance to drive it for a few months.

 

[RyzRT]

Yep, we got one Elk with one to go.

Oh, you mean with the differential 😁. Just kidding . It should be done the first part of November.

Explanation; our weather is changing and I didn't want the Challenger down for the final part of driving season as the parts were late to arrive then Hunting season arrived and we have our first winter storm warning today. But it will be done by the first part of November.

It will be like having a brand new hotrod next year as I won't get much of a chance to drive it for a few months.

So the new Hot Rod will be sporting a 3.09 Limited Slip, a 4" Aluminum one piece driveshaft, correct?

What rims and tires?

 

[Johnnyreb]

So the new Hot Rod will be sporting a 3.09 Limited Slip, a 4" Aluminum one piece driveshaft, correct?

What rims and tires?

Yes, a 3.09 LSD, Driveshaft Shop 4" aluminum Driveshaft, BMR suspension bushing kit rear cradle lockout, Gforce Engineering Driveshaft safety loop and a Per4rmance Development Billet Brace.

I am going to be running the stock 20" x9" hyper black II forged wheels which I like, with the Michelin 245/45r20 pilot sport A/S3+ on the front and the Michelin 275/40ZR20 pilot sport A/S3+ on the rear. These are good tires just too hard of rubber for good traction in a launch.

 

[RyzRT]

Well you'll be putting power to both of them now.

 

[Johnnyreb]

Yes that should help, but in the past I was getting both tires to spin. It is kind of confusing to me that all of a sudden I start doing one wheel burns or maybe I should be surprised it spun both wheels to begin with.

That will all be in the past now but I still don't get it.

 

[RyzRT]

Yes that should help, but in the past I was getting both tires to spin. It is kind of confusing to me that all of a sudden I start doing one wheel burns or maybe I should be surprised it spun both wheels to begin with.

That will all be in the past now but I still don't get it.

That is because after a while the rear brakes start to wear from off the line acceleration, so if one side gets to max rpm spinning the brakes cannot stop it. Thus the single wheel burn out, but it will always be the passenger rear.

You should not be able to wear out your rear brakes before the front under normal circumstances. Because the front brakes get the brunt of stopping the car. But when the ABS system uses the rear brakes to attempt to control the wheel slippage from off the line acceleration, they get excessively worn. One of my rear brake pads was metal to metal.

Now you can turn traction control completely off and have both rear tires spinning together. You are going to have to relearn to drive the car, because you will also have less drive line resistance from the single driveshaft. You no longer will have the center bearing and CV joint at the center support, that resistance against the driveshaft rotation will be gone.

You'll see.

 

[Johnnyreb]

OK, So the deed is done. I changed my mind on the BMR cradle bushings as I was worried it would degrade the ride of the car. It would have made a solid mount to the body so it wasn't installed.What was installed is the 4" aluminum driveline, the safety loop and the 3.09 limited slip differential with the differential brace,

First impressions are that it spins quicker and smoother, it seems to push the car very straight.

The one problem that did rear its ugly head was the shift points of the transmission. Let me qualify this before I go further. The pavement was wet today when I took it out so obviously it spun really easy.

I started from a 10 mph roll and just punched it, immediately came up in the rear and started spinning hit the rev limiter and then shifted gears spun hit the rev limiter in 3rd shifted and started to spin again so I got off of it. I let it slow down into second gear and punched it again, it hit the rev limiter shifted and started to spin again so I let off and that was the end of the session. It did push the car very straight so I am happy with that.

The problem is it hits the rev limiter before it shifts, Now I don't know it was a little bit wet but I think it should have shifted before it hit the rev limiter which is set at 6000 in the tune I believe. I will check it again when I get some dry pavement. It's a useless endeavor while it's wet. I may have to get some work done on the shift points.

The good news is my carrier bearing and the 3.07 open differential are both in perfect shape so maybe I can sell them to someone who is in need. I'll go to that section of the form with some pics in the near future. And maybe put them on ebay.

So what are your opinions on my shift problem?

 

[Rollin’ Along]

Pull fuse #2 to reset the adaptives, if you haven’t already done so. If it still does that, a trans tune might be in order. Trans tune wouldn’t be a bad measure at any rate to capitalize on the change.

 

[RyzRT]

OK, So the deed is done. I changed my mind on the BMR cradle bushings as I was worried it would degrade the ride of the car. It would have made a solid mount to the body so it wasn't installed.What was installed is the 4" aluminum driveline, the safety loop and the 3.09 limited slip differential.

First impressions are that it spins quicker and smoother, it seems to push the car very straight.

The one problem that did rear its ugly head was the shift points of the transmission. Let me qualify this before I go further. The pavement was wet today when I took it out so obviously it spun really easy.

I started from a 10 mph roll and just punched it, immediately came up in the rear and started spinning hit the rev limiter and then shifted gears spun hit the rev limiter in 3rd shifted and started to spin again so I got off of it. I let it slow down into second gear and punched it again, it hit the rev limiter shifted and started to spin again so I let off and that was the end of the session. It did push the car very straight so I am happy with that.

The problem is it hits the rev limiter before it shifts, Now I don't know it was a little bit wet but I think it should have shifted before it hit the rev limiter which is set at 6000 in the tune I believe. I will check it again when I get some dry pavement. It's a useless endeavor while it's wet. I may have to get some work done on the shift points.

The good news is my carrier bearing and the 3.07 open differential are both in perfect shape so maybe I can sell them to someone who is in need. I'll go to that section of the form with some pics in the near future. And maybe put them on ebay.

So what are your opinions on my shift problem?

You cannot make assumptions on a wet road after raining even if the road looks dry it can still be wet enough to light off the tires, you need to retest on a dry road and see if it still does the same thing.

Now I know you don't want to hear this but you need softer tires than the rubber composition you are running and I am not saying you have to change all 4 just the rear. Check the tread wear # on your tires if they are 500s shop for somewhere half of that number or lower, maybe in the # 200 range, but unless you are solely restricted to driving a lot of yearly mileage.


And you really want traction in the rear get some Mickey Thompson ET Street S/S Treadwear # 000, they won't last but about 10,000 miles, but they will shock you at how good they are. There won't be any disappointing red light leaves anymore, and if the tires aren't spinning, the transmission shifts correctly.

Tires are your kryptonite superman, put the right ones back there and what they give back is worth every penny you spend, and when you are 100% satisfied with what they do for you, you do not care they only last 10,000 miles.

I am running 275/40/20 Mickey Thompson ET Street S/S tires on the rear and they grip really well even with the supercharger, and they have only been run on the street. It did not take super wide tires to gain traction, it took the right rubber composition, trust me on this, Johnnyreb, I guarantee they will surprise you. Ry

 

[Johnnyreb]

You cannot make assumptions on a wet road after raining even if the road looks dry it can still be wet enough to light off the tires, you need to retest on a dry road and see if it still does the same thing.

Now I know you don't want to hear this but you need softer tires than the rubber composition you are running and I am not saying you have to change all 4 just the rear. Check the tread wear # on your tires if they are 500s shop for somewhere half of that number or lower, maybe in the # 200 range, but unless you are solely restricted to driving a lot of yearly mileage.


And you really want traction in the rear get some Mickey Thompson ET Street S/S Treadwear # 000, they won't last but about 10,000 miles, but they will shock you at how good they are. There won't be any disappointing red light leaves anymore, and if the tires aren't spinning, the transmission shifts correctly.

Tires are your kryptonite superman, put the right ones back there and what they give back is worth every penny you spend, and when you are 100% satisfied with what they do for you, you do not care they only last 10,000 miles.

I am running 275/40/20 Mickey Thompson ET Street S/S tires on the rear and they grip really well even with the supercharger, and they have only been run on the street. It did not take super wide tires to gain traction, it took the right rubber composition, trust me on this, Johnnyreb, I guarantee they will surprise you. Ry

I
I don't doubt a word your saying Ry. I know you are right. So here is the plan I will go shopping for new tires and as rollin along says I think I will pull the #2 fuse as well. If the Mickey Thompsons work with your super charger I'm sure they will with my upgrades.

For now, we got snow last night and it looks like bad weather till spring so I think I will put her away for the winter and give it another shot when we get dry roads and better tires.

 

[RyzRT]

@Johnnyreb

Just sharing: The one piece driveshaft has less drive line resistance and will force you to relearn launching off the line, even though the 3.09 is now putting power to both the rear tires, the driveshaft requires, relearning to drive.

I honestly thought with the increased HP from the supercharger I was going to be back at square one trying to get the results I was getting from the tires naturally aspirated. One of my friends even told me I would need to go wider, even though I had previously ran 295s, but he was wrong.

The Mickey Thompson ET Street S/S 275/40/20s have surprisingly kept great off the line traction even supercharged, with the one piece driveshaft and the 3.09 LSD. I am so impressed with these tires that unless something bad happens, (Which I will relay!), as we don't have to winter store our cars in South Carolina, so I'll still be driving.

When the MTs wear out, they will be replaced with exactly the same tire, unless of course MT improves the tire even further. FYI. Ry

 

[Johnnyreb]

@Johnnyreb

Just sharing: The one piece driveshaft has less drive line resistance and will force you to relearn launching off the line, even though the 3.09 is now putting power to both the rear tires, the driveshaft requires, relearning to drive.

I honestly thought with the increased HP from the supercharger I was going to be back at square one trying to get the results I was getting from the tires naturally aspirated. One of my friends even told me I would need to go wider, even though I had previously ran 295s, but he was wrong.

The Mickey Thompson ET Street S/S 275/40/20s have surprisingly kept great off the line traction even supercharged, with the one piece driveshaft and the 3.09 LSD. I am so impressed with these tires that unless something bad happens, (Which I will relay!), as we don't have to winter store our cars in South Carolina, so I'll still be driving.

When the MTs wear out, they will be replaced with exactly the same tire, unless of course MT improves the tire even furthher. FYI. RY
[QUOTE
I agree about the driveshaft resistance. I can really tell the difference. The power is smoother and there is more torque and Horsepower at the rear wheels. At least it feels that way.

I reset the adaptives this morning hoping I could do a little driving today but it has been snowing off and on all day so no go.
We both know that I have needed a new set of tires for the rear for a while now but as you can see from my weather report there's no rush now. LOL.
Oh and I forgot to say my butt dyno registers all of the above so I know it's true. How the hell did I get a double quote?

 

[mike t]

Pull fuse #2 to reset the adaptives, if you haven’t already done so. If it still does that, a trans tune might be in order. Trans tune wouldn’t be a bad measure at any rate to capitalize on the change.

on cars 2015 and up it's fuse 31, i had no issues with the rear diff swap as far as the tranny hitting the rev limiter as you described . my be your pedal commander? try turning it off

 

[cdahl383]

Try again on dry pavement. Maybe something funky happened on the wet pavement.

I had to change the command shift rpm on my 1-2 shift because it was hitting the rev limiter. Had to lower it considerably to get it to shift correctly. Now that it’s dialed in, it’s pretty good.

 

[Rollin’ Along]

on cars 2015 and up it's fuse 31

Yeah, you’re right. I forgot it changed. Guess I need to reset my brain adaptives. 😂

 

[Johnnyreb]

Nice day with dry roads today about 45 degrees so I decided to try a couple of 0-60's.

First I shut the trac control off and put it in sport then I punched it. It started spinning and I tried to feather the throttle a little but it continued to spin into second gear until it hit third. That produced a 5.2 time.

Next I tried rolling into full throttle and went to the floor after it shifted into 2nd gear and it started spinning but not as bad. that produced a 5.0 so I think I'm on the right track.

I'll continue to play with it but I have dropped .4 seconds off my time with just those two runs so a big smile. I think I can get another .4 off with a little work on my technique. Then some decent tires will help a little more.

I haven't really worked on my launch like I should have so I will have to let you know after I actually get something worth taking a pic of. Right now 5.0 is MY best but not the cars best I don't think.