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Welcome to the forum!

I know it can only take so much spray at a time and the pistons aren't forged which I've heard could be problematic.
If you stay with a small shot (under 100 hp) you 'll probably be fine as long as you have a window switch that will only spray under WOT (Wide Open Throttle). It's when Folk's get Power Hungry and spray too much that things can and will get out of hand. As stated, ring gaps are the problem and more heat doesn't help with that.

So what kit did you buy? Link to the kit please?

I also considered Nitrous but after much research decided not to go that route.

Have you already gotten an unlocked ECM and gotten a tune, because there is plenty of power that Dodge has left on the table, maybe high flow cats and a good tune will give you the extra power you need?

Or are you going to race the car?

Welcome from South Carolina.
You think that Dodge has left alot on the table with these cars? I don't, because a set of headers MIGHT get you 15 rwhp, while a set of headers on my old LS1 Vette got me 40 to the wheels. Tunes don't get you a ton of power on these cars and I think that Dodge did a Great job on their tuning. GM is famous for leaving power on the table but Dodge does a Great job delivering as advertised. I've found that the factory numbers always run at least advertised and sometimes more.

For instance:Our old 2015 SRT 392 with the A8 trans, dynoed more than Dodge rated it for Completely stock (433 rwhp on a Mustang dyno in 72° weather, which is over 500 to the crank). Maybe it was just a factory freak though! Who knows but She would Scoot!

Welcome to the forum. Your stock Scat Pack brakes are more than adequate for any Nitros shot that can reasonably safely be run on a stock 6.4L.
I agree!

Which of you Nitrous Knockers has actual first hand experience with Nitrous and, What was your experience? Just Curious.
I'll start with my experiences. I had a 1987 Pontiac Trans Am that had a TPI 305 in it that I put a 100 horse shot on. It worked fine and gave an otherwise Anemic motor the kick in the pants that it needed. It probably turned a 15 second car into a high 13 second one but it was fun (except for always filling N20 bottles).

My second experience was a 25 horse "Sneaky Pete" setup on my old 1976 440 Mercury Sno-Twister. It didn't set the world on fire either but was enough sometimes to give me the edge that I needed when drag racing it! It had a 2 lb. bottle that fit under my seat. I hollowed out some of the seat pad to hide the bottle under there. To change the bottle, I unsnapped the seat cover and threw the new one in. I had five little bottles and would go through a few in a weekend.

My last and Greatest use of N20 was in my old 68 Camaro. I had built a 540 c.i BBC with some Sick AFR aluminum heads, full roller valvetrain, etc (817 hp before juice) and then installed a plate system and also a Fogger setup too. The plate was a 150 shot for coming out of the hole and the Fogger was set up to spray another 250 when I wanted it to. It was a blast and worked like a charm too and allowed that car to run 9.18 @ 156 mph (3600 lbs.). It was a Bunch of fun but spraying that much would empty a bottle pretty quickly.
I had a 100 shot N20 kit on my 86 IROC Z....it was a waste....not enough to even notice, and it did cause some issues, like popping thru the intake and taking out the mass air sensor.

It was a kit that came with pre-matched jets, so all you did was plumb it in. I eventually took it off and sold it.
Maybe you didn't fine tune it because I had the same setup on my old 1986 Trans Am and it worked fine without issues. Every car and kit is different though.
 

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You think that Dodge has left a lot on the table with these cars?
Yes I Do!

All these Challengers are tuned way on the safe side to be emission compliant, and a simple unlocked ECM warranty lost tune on 2015+ Challengers, can bypass that and increase power but when the stock intake or exhaust is changed or modified, the emissions are already affected, tuning at that point unleashes the beast in all of them.

The OP needs to seriously Nitrous educate him or her self!
Installing Nitrous - Tech, Running Nitrous Safely, How-To - GM High-Tech
 
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if you cant afford 8k then you cant afford NOS as either way at some point you will likely destroy the motor and you wont have the money to fix it. plus there is no way to tune these without voiding the warrantee so dont expect to remove everything and get dodge to fix it.
 

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if you cant afford 8k then you cant afford NOS as either way at some point you will likely destroy the motor and you wont have the money to fix it. plus there is no way to tune these without voiding the warrantee so dont expect to remove everything and get dodge to fix it.
So, what is your experience with NO2? Speaking of tuning, exactly what are the tune changes needed to run a 100 shot on a basically stock 6.4?
 

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So, what is your experience with NO2? Speaking of tuning, exactly what are the tune changes needed to run a 100 shot on a basically stock 6.4?
i went away from no2 in 1994 when it blew up my stock 350 tpi firebird with 18k on the clock, with no2 being used and a 100hp shot and nos prom chip, the piston came apart. from there i went with a paxton supercharger and a new prom tune and no empty nos tanks and 18k later still running strong.

So i offer my advice to someone who was in the same shoes as i was back then, thinking NOS is cheap easy hp and not looking at the long game of possibly having to afford a rebuild. roll the dice take your chances but in my opinion the 392 is tuned closer to the edge than my 350 tpi was and a lot more expensive to fix
 

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Here is some great advice. "BAD IDEA". The added power ull get will feel worthless at the expense of ur $10k motor grenading which it absolutely will. Find another pipe-dream bro.....
 

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i went away from no2 in 1994 when it blew up my stock 350 tpi firebird with 18k on the clock, with no2 being used and a 100hp shot and nos prom chip, the piston came apart. from there i went with a paxton supercharger and a new prom tune and no empty nos tanks and 18k later still running strong.

So i offer my advice to someone who was in the same shoes as i was back then, thinking NOS is cheap easy hp and not looking at the long game of possibly having to afford a rebuild. roll the dice take your chances but in my opinion the 392 is tuned closer to the edge than my 350 tpi was and a lot more expensive to fix
Was the reason for demise of the 350 ever determined? I've heard several horror stories about prom chips not be right for the application.

I agree the OP does not appear to ready for NO2. I have been investigating NO2 for a while, trying to separate the advice to save idiots from themselves from the advice how to do it safely and successfully.
 

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Welcome to the forum!



If you stay with a small shot (under 100 hp) you 'll probably be fine as long as you have a window switch that will only spray under WOT (Wide Open Throttle). It's when Folk's get Power Hungry and spray too much that things can and will get out of hand. As stated, ring gaps are the problem and more heat doesn't help with that.



You think that Dodge has left alot on the table with these cars? I don't, because a set of headers MIGHT get you 15 rwhp, while a set of headers on my old LS1 Vette got me 40 to the wheels. Tunes don't get you a ton of power on these cars and I think that Dodge did a Great job on their tuning. GM is famous for leaving power on the table but Dodge does a Great job delivering as advertised. I've found that the factory numbers always run at least advertised and sometimes more.

For instance:Our old 2015 SRT 392 with the A8 trans, dynoed more than Dodge rated it for Completely stock (433 rwhp on a Mustang dyno in 72° weather, which is over 500 to the crank). Maybe it was just a factory freak though! Who knows but She would Scoot!



I agree!



I'll start with my experiences. I had a 1987 Pontiac Trans Am that had a TPI 305 in it that I put a 100 horse shot on. It worked fine and gave an otherwise Anemic motor the kick in the pants that it needed. It probably turned a 15 second car into a high 13 second one but it was fun (except for always filling N20 bottles).

My second experience was a 25 horse "Sneaky Pete" setup on my old 1976 440 Mercury Sno-Twister. It didn't set the world on fire either but was enough sometimes to give me the edge that I needed when drag racing it! It had a 2 lb. bottle that fit under my seat. I hollowed out some of the seat pad to hide the bottle under there. To change the bottle, I unsnapped the seat cover and through the new one in. I had five little bottles and would go through a few in a weekend.

My last and Greatest use of N20 was in my old 68 Camaro. I had built a 540 c.i BBC with some Sick AFR aluminum heads, full roller valvetrain, etc (817 hp before juice) and then installed a plate system and also a Fogger setup too. The plate was a 150 shot for coming out of the hole and the Fogger was set up to spray another 250 when I wanted it to. It was a blast and worked like a charm too and allowed that car to run 9.18 @ 156 mph (3600 lbs.). It was a Bunch of fun but spraying that much would empty a bottle pretty quickly.


Maybe you didn't fine tune it because I had the same setup on my old 1986 Trans Am and it worked fine without issues. Every car and kit is different though.
I think the reason why you only gain 15 hp on a 392 compared to 40 hp on an older vehicle is because the factory 392 headers flow great to begin with (compared to older exhaust manifolds).
 

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Here is some great advice. "BAD IDEA". The added power ull get will feel worthless at the expense of ur $10k motor grenading which it absolutely will. Find another pipe-dream bro.....
There are multiple posts on this forum of 392's using Nitrous on untuned / Stock engines. They change to colder spark plugs, and do nothing else. From what they say, they have been spraying for several years with no problems. That being said... I have a saying.... Spraying nitrous is like sleeping with a hooker.... You want to hit it, but are afraid of the consequences. :)
 

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Your stock brakes are fine.

I would stick with 100 shot or less on a stock 6.4L. I would get a good nitrous tune for it and run that when you spray it. Might need one step colder plugs depending on how much you spray.
 

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Yes I Do!

All these Challengers are tuned way on the safe side to be emission compliant, and a simple unlocked ECM warranty lost tune on 2015+ Challengers, can bypass that and increase power but when the stock intake or exhaust is changed or modified, the emissions are already affected, tuning at that point unleashes the beast in all of them.

The OP needs to seriously Nitrous educate him or her self!
Installing Nitrous - Tech, Running Nitrous Safely, How-To - GM High-Tech
I Respect your opinion and agree to disagree, although I do agree with your statement on the emissions though. As I said though, without a tune or anything other than a Solo exhaust, Ours made over advertised on a MUSTANG dyno (which are said to be stingy)! It was corrected using the STD factor too, just in case you're wondering.

I also don't think that the tune makes a huge difference unless adding a power adder. These cars in N/A form are pretty potent from the factory for their weight. I'm not saying that a tune doesn't make a difference but by the time that the pcm/ecu/whatever is unlocked, the software is purchased (if self tuning) or the tune is bought from your Tuner, the power per dollar doesn't seem worth it to me. Everyone is different though and how I feel about it, might be different for you. I'm Good with that!

Once again, your opinion is obviously different than mine and that's Cool by me.

Have a Great Day..................PEACE!

So, what is your experience with NO2? Speaking of tuning, exactly what are the tune changes needed to run a 100 shot on a basically stock 6.4?
As CDahl383 recommended, one step colder plugs would help. Nitrous creates its own atmosphere in the cylinder and is an oxidizer (adds oxygen molecules) and by making the spark plug colder, it helps to deal with added heat created by the N20 in the cylinder. Any time that you make more power, the heat is the by-product of that, among other things.

David Frieburger explains it Very well in these two videos:



I think the reason why you only gain 15 hp on a 392 compared to 40 hp on an older vehicle is because the factory 392 headers flow great to begin with (compared to older exhaust manifolds).
True............... I didn't think of that!

Thanks!
 

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If you get a good custom tune you can easily pick up 25hp over the stock tune. That's pretty noticeable. If you tune the vehicle to run on good fuel like VP MS109 or tune it for E85 you'll pick up another 10-20hp.

Longtube headers will add power as well, but it's the cost that makes them prohibitive. They are expensive, a PITA to install, and the main restriction in the exhaust is the cats. If you just run some catless mid pipes at the track you'll pick up power and shed about 20lbs of weight as well.

I've found it's easier to drop weight off the car than it is to go nuts adding power. Basic bolt ons, a tune, and some weight reduction, while running some good sticky tires on the back will net you some pretty nice ET's compared to stock.

I was really close to pulling the trigger on a nitrous kit last fall, but I chickened out. Nitrous Outlet makes some nice stuff. I'm just not ready to dive into that just yet. But I know quite a few people who ran nitrous on their 392's for years without any problems. I think the key is to ensure it's tuned properly, you don't run it too lean, you run good fuel to ensure you have no knock, and you run it from 3000RPM and up (not right off the line).
 
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