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2022 Challenger Scat Pack Shaker
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As I edge closer to my first oil change I have a question. Does the oil drain straight down when the plug is removed or is there something under it? I haven't been under my car yet but I have had some cars where the drain plug isn't in a good place. I was thinking of getting a Fumoto drain valve so I can attach a hose if this was the case. Call me anal but I don't want to get oil everywhere.
 

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No sir it comes out horizontally, you need an oil capture pan a lot larger than you think, even if you go Fumoto you still have to get the initial oil out. My first oil change shocked the hell out of me at how fast it came out! Thankfully it had cooled enough it did not burn me because it got on my arm, and ruined a shirt, Be Careful! It will project out about 18" in a gravity arc, make sure the capture bin is wider than that. That initial burst stream continues for a short time and then gets better and easier to manage. Don't remove the oil fill cap as it is even worse if you do.
 

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As @RyzRT said ... the initial flow is surprising.

That's why I use a lawn-size garbage bag under my fairly-large catch pan to catch any stray drips or surprises.

And ... I use a plastic bag over the filter when I remove it so oil doesn't go everywhere.
 

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...I haven't been under my car yet but I have had some cars where the drain plug isn't in a good place. ...
Sounds like you do your own maintenance to make sure it is done right. Me too. Some random thoughts as you start this...
  • There is a large flat plastic panel to remove. It is easy and obvious once it is in the air.
  • Look up all the threads on oil here for info on the correct type, and then make the decision that is right for you. The "0w" is why it comes out quick when it is cold.
  • Ditto for regular oil filters versus the vaunted SRT filter.
  • Pay attention to where you put the floor jack - it needs to go on the pinch welds, and you may need an jack adapter.
  • Same for where you lower it on to flat top jack stands...or blocks under the tires...
  • Or just use ramps.
Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the info everyone. Yes I do like to do things myself. I've never brought a car in for an oil change and I won't start now. I believe part of personalizing a car is also deciding on what products to use in maintaining it. I also bought this car new so I could maintain it correctly from the get go.

I decided after all to order a Fumoto valve with the nipple so I can attach a hose to direct the oil the next time. On the first oil change thanks for the warning. I will cover everything with some cheap but strong garbage bags the the first time around to protect the undercarriage.

As far as oil I am a Mobil 1 guy. I see that Walmart has Mobil 1 0W-40 for a good price. I am unsure why it says its a European formula though. For filters I am going with a Motorcraft FL820S because its built well for the price. Its built the same as the MO-899 but it has a silicone anti-drainback valve. Though I do like the Wix XP filter media better. I change my oil religiously at 3000 miles so I think I will be ok with the FL820S. Though I still have 2000 miles yet to change my mind.
 

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I don't know if I want to try it now! Especially since when I went to change my wheels the other day I noticed I didn't have the right extension or a big enough socket wrench for that matter. I thought I got one for x-mas, but looks like I only have two torque wrenches and no extensions that fit those either. I went to the parts store to buy one and it doesn't fit over my aftermarket lugs either. I feel like such an idiot. Anyway, since my dad doesn't even want to attempt to change the oil since he says it sits too low in the front to get my jack under, I guess I'll have to overpay again to get the oil change when the time comes. I wonder if its worth it to buy oil when I notice its on sale some place and take it with me to the dealership or if they would even allow it? If not I guess its time to find a local garage.
 

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... I am a Mobil 1 guy. I see that Walmart has Mobil 1 0W-40 for a good price. I am unsure why it says its a European formula though. ....I change my oil religiously at 3000 miles...
Ha, we are very much alike. The officially approved SRT oil is unobtainium around here. I have used Mobile 1 in other vehicles and have been happy with it. The "European formula" is a head scratcher though. Probably marketing bravo-sierra.

With the two new vehicles 3k miles is my new interval. I ran 2k intervals on 30+ year old SBCs. One of them I sold two years ago (to make garage room for the Scat) with 330k on the original motor. I still see it drive by my house every day. I am a firm believer that regular oil changes is more important than choosing specific oil & filter brands.

I have participated in on-line forums for various vehicle platforms for several decades. I always get a chuckle out of the guys who brag about 10k miles (or more) on an oil change because the manufacturer says they can. Maybe they change the filter at one point and then keep going. They are almost always the ones who have some major motor problem at 80-100k.

(Oil change intervals, preferred brands, and specific practices are like religious denominations. I'm not going to join your religion, and I won't convince you to join mine. So allow me my beliefs, and I will allow you yours.) :)
 

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Thanks for the info everyone. Yes I do like to do things myself. I've never brought a car in for an oil change and I won't start now. I believe part of personalizing a car is also deciding on what products to use in maintaining it. I also bought this car new so I could maintain it correctly from the get go.

I decided after all to order a Fumoto valve with the nipple so I can attach a hose to direct the oil the next time. On the first oil change thanks for the warning. I will cover everything with some cheap but strong garbage bags the the first time around to protect the undercarriage.

As far as oil I am a Mobil 1 guy. I see that Walmart has Mobil 1 0W-40 for a good price. I am unsure why it says its a European formula though. For filters I am going with a Motorcraft FL820S because its built well for the price. Its built the same as the MO-899 but it has a silicone anti-drainback valve. Though I do like the Wix XP filter media better. I change my oil religiously at 3000 miles so I think I will be ok with the FL820S. Though I still have 2000 miles yet to change my mind.
You want to personalize the car sign the dash with an indelible ink pen.

Use the oil and filter the automaker says to use. Change on schedule at least though my habit is to shorten the drain interval to 5K miles rather than the 6K miles Dodge calls for.

While Mobil 1 0w-40 worked just fine in my various car engines from a VW Golf TDi to a Porsche Turbo with total mileage on the engines of about 706K miles with no engine problems with my 2 Scat Packs and my Hellcat I used Pennzoil Full Synthetic 0w-40.

I'm not a fan of any drain valve. I prefer the simplicity of a drain plug. If called for I will replace the sealing ring/crush washer whenever it is called for -- for some cars that meant a new sealing ring every oil change -- but fitting a drain valve on my car's engine oil sump? No way.
 

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Fumoto valves. When one is installed... And then you remove it, more oil dumps out. A good 4 to 6 ounces. Why? Because the thickness of the threads on the valve block that flow of oil. Its the same as if you drilled a 1/4" hole through the length of the stock drain plug. Had one. It went in the trash can.
-John
 

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Fumoto valves. When one is installed... And then you remove it, more oil dumps out. A good 4 to 6 ounces. Why? Because the thickness of the threads on the valve block that flow of oil. Its the same as if you drilled a 1/4" hole through the length of the stock drain plug. Had one. It went in the trash can.
-John
That is a very good point John!
 
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As I edge closer to my first oil change I have a question. Does the oil drain straight down when the plug is removed or is there something under it? I haven't been under my car yet but I have had some cars where the drain plug isn't in a good place. I was thinking of getting a Fumoto drain valve so I can attach a hose if this was the case. Call me anal but I don't want to get oil everywhere.
Those Valves have caused a lot of issues, use the regular drain plug and don't be affraid of getting dirty other wise take it to a Reputable Shop or Dealer not a Jiffy, Quick, Speedy Lube Place.
 

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Thanks for the info everyone. Yes I do like to do things myself. I've never brought a car in for an oil change and I won't start now. I believe part of personalizing a car is also deciding on what products to use in maintaining it. I also bought this car new so I could maintain it correctly from the get go.

I decided after all to order a Fumoto valve with the nipple so I can attach a hose to direct the oil the next time. On the first oil change thanks for the warning. I will cover everything with some cheap but strong garbage bags the the first time around to protect the undercarriage.

As far as oil I am a Mobil 1 guy. I see that Walmart has Mobil 1 0W-40 for a good price. I am unsure why it says its a European formula though. For filters I am going with a Motorcraft FL820S because its built well for the price. Its built the same as the MO-899 but it has a silicone anti-drainback valve. Though I do like the Wix XP filter media better. I change my oil religiously at 3000 miles so I think I will be ok with the FL820S. Though I still have 2000 miles yet to change my mind.
There is something satisfying about doing it yourself to know that it's done the right way.

I'm a long-time Mobil 1 user from owning a number of GM vehicles. And, I still use it in my 2005 Monte Carlo daily driver. Just keep in mind that Mobil 1doesn't recommend any of their oil products for the 6.4L/392ci HEMI engines. I think the Mobil 1 engineers are smarter than me. So ... I'm sticking to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-40. I'd love to be able to buy it locally, but I'm okay with getting it from Amazon (6 quarts for $50-ish) Amazon - Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-40 Case

Once my extended warranty is up, I might take a look at something a little easier to find locally. Though ... why change from what's working!
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I found a video on Youtube of a guy doing an oil change and I think I can get by without the Fumoto valve. I was just thinking that it would be beneficial to have one to get the oil away from suspension components but it looks like there is plenty of room. I'll send it back when it arrives. I know some people swear by them but I prefer the reliability of an old fashioned drain plug.

I am not totally against using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum but Walmart has Mobil 1 for a good price and its a good oil. I know people keep saying the engineers know better than we do on what oil our engines need but is it actually engineering or is it more marketing. I just get the feeling the only reason Dodge isn't using a particular oil is that they struck a good deal with the oil company. The ol' mighty dollar reigns supreme.
 

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I found a video on Youtube of a guy doing an oil change and I think I can get by without the Fumoto valve. I was just thinking that it would be beneficial to have one to get the oil away from suspension components but it looks like there is plenty of room. I'll send it back when it arrives. I know some people swear by them but I prefer the reliability of an old fashioned drain plug.

I am not totally against using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum but Walmart has Mobil 1 for a good price and its a good oil. I know people keep saying the engineers know better than we do on what oil our engines need but is it actually engineering or is it more marketing. I just get the feeling the only reason Dodge isn't using a particular oil is that they struck a good deal with the oil company. The ol' mighty dollar reigns supreme.
I’m not saying Mobil 1 isn’t good oil. I still use it in my Chevy. But it’s not Dodge telling us not to use Mobil 1 in the SRT engines, it’s Mobil 1 that doesn’t recommend using their oil.

And Mobil 1 does recommend their oils for the 5.7L/345ci engines (and the V6 engines) so it’s not like there’s a long lingering beef between the two companies.

As often as you’re planning to change your oil, I think you’d be fine using almost any Full Synthetic oil. Valvoline, Amsoil, Schaeffer’s all have oils that they recommend for the SRT engines.
 
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I found a video on Youtube of a guy doing an oil change and I think I can get by without the Fumoto valve. I was just thinking that it would be beneficial to have one to get the oil away from suspension components but it looks like there is plenty of room. I'll send it back when it arrives. I know some people swear by them but I prefer the reliability of an old fashioned drain plug.

I am not totally against using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum but Walmart has Mobil 1 for a good price and its a good oil. I know people keep saying the engineers know better than we do on what oil our engines need but is it actually engineering or is it more marketing. I just get the feeling the only reason Dodge isn't using a particular oil is that they struck a good deal with the oil company. The ol' mighty dollar reigns supreme.
If Dodge struck a deal with Pennzoil it forgot to tell its dealers. Up until COVID hit the several dealers I used in northern CA discounted Pennzoil oil and the oil filter. The oil was discounted from around $10/quart to $6/quart with the filter getting a similar discount. And in one case I was "comp'd" an oil/filter service by the service manager for being a good service customer.

Could be Dodge approached Mobil about using its oil but Mobil declined to go to the expense of qualifying its oil for use in Dodge products. Mobil may not have wanted to bother with the small market the Dodge Hellcat/Scat Pack represented.

If you don't accept the factory and what oil it says to use you can use any oil you want for any reason you want. All reasons are equal and all equally bad.
 

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....Just keep in mind that Mobil 1doesn't recommend any of their oil products for the 6.4L/392ci HEMI engines....
I'm doing the head-scratch on this one.

I have read all the conspiratorial debates about the MS-12633 certification. My understanding is Mobile 1 did not pursue the certification, for a variety of unconfirmed reasons the car community speculates about. That doesn't mean Mobile 1 would or would not pass the certification, it only means they did not invest in the certification process.

This post is the first I have heard about Mobile 1 explicitly not recommending their own product for use on this platform. I won't say I didn't miss some sort of detail, or my head isn't somewhere up my backside. o_O However, could you provide a reference for this statement from a valid industry source?
 

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I'm doing the head-scratch on this one.

I have read all the conspiratorial debates about the MS-12633 certification. My understanding is Mobile 1 did not pursue the certification, for a variety of unconfirmed reasons the car community speculates about. That doesn't mean Mobile 1 would or would not pass the certification, it only means they did not invest in the certification process.

This post is the first I have heard about Mobile 1 explicitly not recommending their own product for use on this platform. I won't say I didn't miss some sort of detail, or my head isn't somewhere up my backside. o_O However, could you provide a reference for this statement from a valid industry source?
Ditto!
 
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If you don't accept the factory and what oil it says to use you can use any oil you want for any reason you want. All reasons are equal and all equally bad.
Affirmative, Especially if you change your oil when the car indicates it is time, these intervals are way less than I used to run Full Synthetic oil.
 

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Affirmative, Especially if you change your oil when the car indicates it is time, these intervals are way less than I used to run Full Synthetic oil.
Would not run the oil beyond the factory called for change interval, or even what the oil life monitor calls for.

But changing the oil before the called for official facctory change interval or before the oil life monitor calls for can be good automotive hygiene. In at least one case I am aware of for one car I owned the factory declared the region in which I lived (KC MO and the area around it) a severe usage area. This due to climate, humidity, particulate matter in the air, and traffic congestion. The factory issued a bulletin that the factory 10K miles oil/filter service interval was reduced to 5K miles.

Have to say that the conditions in the KC MO area were not that different than conditions in any number of other major metro areas across the country.

Even without the factory modifying the oil change interval I have been known to change the oil more often than the factory called for change interval.
 

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Do you oil change when the car is cold, maybe just a little warm...Then it would surprise you by shooting out.
 
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