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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Everyone, first post.

So,,, got a challenger 2013 R/T at an auction. Very minor damage. No bent metal. Only plastic and few other parts were damaged. Needed new bumper skin, grill, spoiler, radiator and AC condenser. All that is done. Looks like new inside and out.
IMG_0201.jpg


Old battery was totally dead. Put in a brand new battery (Auto Zone $159) and it wont start. Check engine light is on. This is what I have on my scanner. All these codes are permanent and cannot be erased with my scanner. Everything works on the car except the starter. I hear a noise in the middle of the shift lever area when I turn the key to the start position but starter does not engage. I checked the starter solenoid in the fuse box and all the fuses, all are good.

P0117, Coolant sensor.
P0123, Throttle
P2122, Throttle
P2127, Throttle
P0643, Sensor Reference Voltage A Circuit High
P0653, Sensor Reference Voltage B Circuit High

I Know what all the codes mean. P0123, P2122, and P2127 are throttle pedal related. I hastily went to the dealer and bought a new pedal unit ($86)(Auto Zone wanted way more) and plugged it in. It did not fix anything. So I checked the live data with my scanner; I push the throttle and the numbers on the scanner screen change, indicating it is working. I put the old one back in and repeated the scanner test, the results were the same.

There are no codes except for the permanent codes listed above. So what I did was unplug the coolant sensor plug, throttle pedal plug, throttle body plug, airflow sensor plug, and ambient temperature plug. then I turned the ignition off and on a few times. This threw codes in the stored codes area of the scanner. I plugged all the plugs back in and was able to erase all those codes but the permanent codes are still there.

On the scanner there are 3 sections for codes. Stored codes, Pending codes and Permanent codes. All the codes that came up when I unplugged everything were in the stored codes area, but they were the same as the permanent codes. I was able to erase the codes in the "Stored codes" section.

I used a breaker bar to turn the engine, smooth and can feel compression.

There is oil in the engine. New radiator is full of new coolant. Brake fluid full.

Checked the fuel pump, it buzzes when I turn on the key.

Next I tried to jump the starter solenoid but could not find a schematic to know which two areas to jump.

Next I jacked up the car to try and jump the starter solenoid directly, but could not get the starter solenoid plug wire to come out of the socket. (I need to get this off to test the starter to know if I have to replace it.) I want to use a volt meter to see if voltage is going to the starter wire.

Next I held the key in the "start" position and jiggled the shift lever to see if there was something inside that area that may be the reason for it not to start.

Tried starting it in neutral and park, foot on the brake.

Put a new battery in the key fob.

Unplugged and plugged back in the two plugs that go into the ECM that is on the passenger side by the windshield. Also did same to the plugs on the fuse box forward of the engine on passenger side. All looked good and no evidence of moisture damage.

Also when I cycle the ignition switch I can hear the throttle body making noise.

Cleaned the throttle body and moved the butterfly, moves smoothly and is spring loaded closed.

There is a half tank of gas.

Checked for broken wires or burned wires and giggled EVERYTHING that has wires on it including the fuse box in the trunk.


I don't want to hang my head in shame and take my car to the Stealer, I mean dealer.


I plan on keeping this car. I have wanted one since they started making them. It is my goal that the Stealer never sees my car,,, ever.


I have not unplugged and re-plugged the wire bundle that goes to the ignition box that is behind the ignition key. Going to try that next.


Any one have any ideas?
 

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Hello and welcome to the brotherhood of muscle, go Bucks. Enter the vin# at the mopars owners site to see if your vehicle has a win module recall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hello and welcome to the brotherhood of muscle, go Bucks. Enter the vin# at the mopars owners site to see if your vehicle has a win module recall.
Hi, thanks. That was a good call. There is one recall for the alternator but no WIN module. Mopar site is a good resource, thanks for the info.

-W
 

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Did you do all those repairs or was it fixed before you bought it? Could be something was not connected right (sensors) or there was more damage than what you were originally told?
 

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2016 Dodge Challenger R/T Plus in Granite Crystal Metallic
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Was it running before you fixed all the body parts?
 

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Welcome to the Forum from Pennsylvania. All good advice above. Best of luck getting it fixed. I would take this one to a dealer for diagnostics.
 

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Welcome from AZ.
 

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I don't want to hang my head in shame and take my car to the Stealer, I mean dealer.
I plan on keeping this car. I have wanted one since they started making them. It is my goal that the Stealer never sees my car,,, ever.

Dealerships have far more resources at their disposal.. Being dogmatic in respect to a non runner is being shortsighted.. Although as a garage door stop, the Challenger is very eye catching—L
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Did you do all those repairs or was it fixed before you bought it? Could be something was not connected right (sensors) or there was more damage than what you were originally told?

I got the car with the damage as it was so I was able to see every detail of what was wrong. I fixed it myself. The damage never went very deep. It was a best case scenario as accident go. It looked bad but was easy bolt on stuff to fix. Never even touched a hammer once.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Don’t these cars have an auto frontal collision Cut Out? Worth a check!

Hmmmmm, never head of that. The only sensor up front was the ambient air temperature sensor, it is still there. I will search for a wire diagram. The whole front of the car is all plastic. It looks like whoever had the car ran into a trailer hitch. Then, when the two vehicles moved apart, the bumper plastic cover ripped in half. This also explains the dent in the AC compressor that looked like a trailer ball. I do see the air bag sensors next to the radiator on both sides. They are intact. The air bags did not go off in the accident. I doubt the guy even spilled his coffee in the accident. The trailer hitch went above the metal bumper that is under all the plastic. Was definitely a slow speed accident.
 

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Maybe you can trace the original owner, even the Dealership, they might be able to thro’ some light on the overall situation..
I just had the front bumper area replaced on my SRT due to an animal encounter, the cost $3k. I cannot imagine a Challenger owner moving a car On for that minimal amount.. have you checked that all the VIN & block numbers match? IMHO you obviously thought the auction price was ok, why not invest in a little chargeable help..
How long have you had the vehicle?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I don't want to hang my head in shame and take my car to the Stealer, I mean dealer.
I plan on keeping this car. I have wanted one since they started making them. It is my goal that the Stealer never sees my car,,, ever.

Dealerships have far more resources at their disposal.. Being dogmatic in respect to a non runner is being shortsighted.. Although as a garage door stop, the Challenger is very eye catching—L

You are correct. I will end up at the dealer if we all cant find the solution. I figure with all the experience on this site, there may be a chance. I am not in a hurry to get it fixed. I have another vehicle. I bet there is someone on this forum that has had the same issue. If the solution is the dealer I will have to do that. I have had both good and bad experiences with car dealers. At this point it is more of a mystery that I want to conquer. I am systematically trying to rule out each system in the car. If I can test the starter today I will be one step further. I want this post to go as long as it needs to until resolution. I will post the results. Many of the threads on this forum end with no resolution. I want other members to benefit from my work on this problem.

All the stuff in our lives breaks down eventually. One of my employees told me his water heater broke and that he was going to have someone fix it. He got estimates for around $2000.:eek:... I Googled water heaters for him and showed him that it was 3 connections. With this knowledge, he tackled the project himself after work. He came back the next day and was very pleased with himself for doing the job himself. He is a better man because of it.

Now I know everyone is like, "a water heater, come on that's easy". Yes it is, but for someone who never even touched a wrench it was overwhelming.

I don't ever look at anything as overwhelming, its just more stuff and more bolts that some other guy put together.

But here is the rub. Manufacturers are slowly taking away our ability to fix anything. Everything has sensors and computers. One day it will be impossible to fix anything and that is extortion. I am trying to fix my car with the help of all in this forum as a fight against tyranny. This is where we fight! This is where we hold on to our freedom. If we fail here we lose another small battle. The people who are hackers and tinker with stuff are the warriors of today. We fight a beast that will eventually make it impossible to do anything if we do nothing. We will all be programmed robots and say thank you to our oppressors as they take our money to fix things they intentionally made impossible to fix.

Think for a second about a Challenger from the 60's and 70's. Is there any reason to go to a dealer to fix anything? Only if you want to. All the systems are simple and easy to understand.

I know its different with new cars but I want to fight the system. Not just for me, but for everyone. If I don't fight, if we don't fight, the term "idiot light" will surely define us all.

-W
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Maybe you can trace the original owner, even the Dealership, they might be able to thro’ some light on the overall situation..
I just had the front bumper area replaced on my SRT due to an animal encounter, the cost $3k. I cannot imagine a Challenger owner moving a car On for that minimal amount.. have you checked that all the VIN & block numbers match? IMHO you obviously thought the auction price was ok, why not invest in a little chargeable help..
How long have you had the vehicle?

The car is in like new condition, not a scratch and interior still smells new, I have had it for 4 months. Insurance company totaled it because it looked really bad. Radiator leaking, face ripped off. Could have been an new guy at the insurance company who didn't know his stuff, it happens.


I will go to the dealer if i have to but want to try and fix it myself. I'm in no hurry.
 

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You are correct. I will end up at the dealer if we all cant find the solution. I figure with all the experience on this site, there may be a chance. I am not in a hurry to get it fixed. I have another vehicle. I bet there is someone on this forum that has had the same issue. If the solution is the dealer I will have to do that. I have had both good and bad experiences with car dealers. At this point it is more of a mystery that I want to conquer. I am systematically trying to rule out each system in the car. If I can test the starter today I will be one step further. I want this post to go as long as it needs to until resolution. I will post the results. Many of the threads on this forum end with no resolution. I want other members to benefit from my work on this problem.

All the stuff in our lives breaks down eventually. One of my employees told me his water heater broke and that he was going to have someone fix it. He got estimates for around $2000.:eek:... I Googled water heaters for him and showed him that it was 3 connections. With this knowledge, he tackled the project himself after work. He came back the next day and was very pleased with himself for doing the job himself. He is a better man because of it.

Now I know everyone is like, "a water heater, come on that's easy". Yes it is, but for someone who never even touched a wrench it was overwhelming.

I don't ever look at anything as overwhelming, its just more stuff and more bolts that some other guy put together.

But here is the rub. Manufacturers are slowly taking away our ability to fix anything. Everything has sensors and computers. One day it will be impossible to fix anything and that is extortion. I am trying to fix my car with the help of all in this forum as a fight against tyranny. This is where we fight! This is where we hold on to our freedom. If we fail here we lose another small battle. The people who are hackers and tinker with stuff are the warriors of today. We fight a beast that will eventually make it impossible to do anything if we do nothing. We will all be programmed robots and say thank you to our oppressors as they take our money to fix things they intentionally made impossible to fix.

Think for a second about a Challenger from the 60's and 70's. Is there any reason to go to a dealer to fix anything? Only if you want to. All the systems are simple and easy to understand.

I know its different with new cars but I want to fight the system. Not just for me, but for everyone. If I don't fight, if we don't fight, the term "idiot light" will surely define us all.

-W
I think there is a little more to the cars history.. I doubt the insurance mistakenly wrote it Off.. I wish you success, but will no longer follow this diagnosis crap shoot..
 

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Welcome to the site!!
 
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